lol...
when i started, i also started from hand paint --> spray cans --> AB..
i bet it won't be long you'll go to AB. IF you tried it once i bet you would want it again. spray can is one of the best methods to paint your kit for starting cost.

Dont want, dont want....No $$$ liao...
Want to detox myself from Bandai poison...

yes, but investing in AB if you're very serious in this hobby will save $$ because imagine if you keep buying spray cans for 10 years, the value will be more than the AB alr as AB use's small amount of paint.
Before painting kit, use primer/surfacer...
After painting kit, top coat
the Usual steps
Pre-assemble --> sand --> primer/surfacer --> paint --> topcoat(gloss(for decals and panel lining washing method))(can skip) --> panel line --> decals --> top coat

Thanks for this great step but may i know Primer/surfacer for what purpose?

This post has been edited by Grankaiser: Oct 1 2010, 12:38 AM

surfacer coating is useful for filling in bumps, dents, scratches, for removing bubbles, texturing and finishing bases for preparation of airbrushing or painting.
primer act as surfacer i guess??

as mentioned above
the purpose is to cover scratches from the sanding you've made on your kit. It also used for modding to check errors and etc.
most important is, it lets your paint "stick" better on the kit.

actually, a whole compressor set is not too exp ma.. compressor is 300, hand piece can get for 80++ not too bad at all.. get more control.. get to mix custom paints.. i for one, have never bought a grey color yet.. just mix black and white.. long term savings..

380....quite OK la, but i can buy 55 DPI spray cans with that...
But i have to admit Spray can effect cant match AB though , and much more works as some pieces might screw up becoz cant control pressure in spray can
but 380 is just starting cost, thinner and electric bill are the one killed me...

thinner mahal. electricity nope.

Power consumption? like water heater? Or air-con...?

power consumption is super low la.. its like 1/8hp only.. besides, get one with a tank and you don't need to turn it on all the time.. as for thinner, use industrial for cleaning la.. for thinning paint then only use modelling thinner loh.. we spend so much on a kit already, might as well spend that little bit more to get it done nicely..

modelling is a relatively cheap hobby lo.. compared to photography, or people who race cars.. fuh.. petrol one week also more than thinner for one year lo.. lol

thinner is expensive but can last you very long... i bought the 2nd biggest hobby thinner that time almost 2 years also not finished.. lol
electric bill wont be so expensive la.. i dont think the compressor uses a lot of electricity also

That is actually the right way.. lol.. i can't imagine someone so crazy use hobby thinner to wash their ab...
Well said!!! though it'll be expensive if you get a lot of tools and stuff but overall still can't compare to photography and car



This post has been edited by z3r0717: Oct 1 2010, 11:55 AM

One thing about AB compressors... if it has a tank, the bigger the tank, you save alot. I use a 8KG air tank, lasted me 1 hour of ABing in shot, pumping only takes about less than 5minutes depending on how strong your compressor is, so yeah it is very electricity saving.

Industrial thinner... oh I so wish we can use that to paint and not only clean. One big tong cost at most MYR20

can use to paint wan.. just after that melted only mah..

After melt sand kao kao lo....

Have u all heard about Paint Remover from Mr hobby?
Boleh pakai one ar?
coz now i use M.hobby thinner to clean paint, 400ml can habis within 1 week....

I have not tried Mr hobby paint remover, heard it s*cks; no concrete evidence on that though.

However, go HLJ search for this key words "Paint buster". Really good! Though for such a small bottle, it looks really expensive with its price tag; i still think it's worth checking out. Lemme try my best to explain a little:

Usually when we clean up paint , we use thinner. The problem of thinner is it dries fast. We gotta make sure all the paint's off the plastic before the thinner vaporize. cause if the thinner is gone, the paint is no longer "melted" and cannot be clean. So we repeat the process of adding thinner- melt the paint-quickily wipe of the unwanted paint; on n on n on again. Hence wasted lots of thinner.

This paint buster thing, once you apply onto painted surface, the paint melts, and u can clean it. In case when it dries and u haven't remove all the unwanted paint, no worry. This thing has some kind of oil element in it. even after dried, unlike using thinner, the paint is not grabbing onto the plastic surface again. So u can slowly apply the chemical all over the plastic kit; even thought some parts r already, in the end, u can just use tap water to wash everything off.



Of course, if u want to strip the paint for the entire kit, the cheapest way for stripping lacquer paint is still brake fluid. soak it in the fluid/oil, and the paint actually peel off by itself

Wao! Sounds real good~~
I also heard of brake oil... Any brand will do? or got specific brand like Zippo for lighter fluid.

I'm using Mr. Hobby paint remover to remove the excess ink of panel lining. It works like a charm without damaging the gundam plastic. Same goes to removing the Mr. Hobby paints.

Greetings guys! I'm not sure if its okay to post this but i really do need some help. I'm looking for some PLC or Polymorph or Polycaprolactone (which is the same thing) for those of you who dont know, its a low melting polymer that can be molded like plasticine, when it hardens its just like PVC. I need it for a project. Its good for big body molds and mixed with resin decreases bubbles as well. If you know where I can grab some please PM me. And sorry if i'm trolling. Cheers!

PM Rayloke.