If u need couple with lowered spring, then better get the shorter type lo

any sport abs lo... now either IMP or GAB. but GAB SA got AVCS. sounds nice on paper.. duno in real life is how

short stroke? where got la bro.. u look around the market no short stroke absorber. i guess its just not profitable to make it anymore....

Get adjustable.. type

u sponsor i get

okok I sponsor u...... Verbally.. keke

never on the atf but engine oil additive, yes!
and this particular brand of engine oil additive is simply fantastic! had been using it on every service interval


it's not advisable to change to fully synthetic at sych a high mileage. better option will be semi synthetic, if the car is already on semi synthetic, just try another brand. agree with you on the atf cooler functionality

you can go wrong with the new michellin ps3 i just bought 2 pcs of 225/45/r17 for my regular ride. wet and dry traction / grip is damn good!
one of the best i've had ever use.
planning to buy 195/55/r15 for my waja too.

nct 5 use to comes standard even on new civic cars. hence, more ppl voted for it because they are already using it since the 1st day they bought the car.
btw, have you ever tried 'em all by yourself?

stay away from gab. use em for less than 3 months before i sold off. if you want the best of both world, get an apm performax. expensive but it's worth
it! performance and comfort in one package.
not promoting ea but imp is definitely a better buy over the gab!
standard hi lo adjustable abs is stiffer, unless paired with custom made spring. choose one that suit your driving style

can or cant??
btw u noe hw much ps3 on stock rim size??

how much is apm performax abs? i heard ppl sell the spring la.. but rarely the abs.
wuts bad abt the gab suspension? n wut advantage is imp?

i was on silverstone kruizers before this and yeah the wet traction really was rubbish. recently changed all 4 to dunlop sp sport and ive gotta say its alot better than silverstone on both wet and dry conditions not to forget its pretty quiet too.

Guys, went to Segaria Auto service yesterday and i should say that it was the best workshop i've been, with friendly staffs and also loads of information i get from Mr Raja, very recommended workshop to go to..

Thanks nayte and all who shared information about this workshop..

what do you guys use to clean your rims? some dirt doesn't seem to come out.

ATF and Engine oil :

These two has three functions ; lubricate, cool, protect.

Lubricate : you know by the word itself
Cool : Transfer heat from one hot place to another cooler place, eg. oil pan
Protect : protect from metal to metal friction, overheating, grinding, and whatever other possible reasons.


An ATF Cooler can help you take care of your gearbox by cooling down the ATF. Your ATF in Gearbox is overheating if you're going up genting and it jumps to free gear. This can be solved by adding ATF cooler, and of course, LUBEGARD 'black high friction modifier' atf additive which is proven and raises the boiling point of your atf.

Changing your 4litres of ATF to synthetic in your gearbox is not gonna do any good. If yes, minimal. The secret is that you have to flush your gearbox if you are to change to a different type of ATF. Not many workshops in this country has the machine to do it. Your gearbox will probably have a total of 6-8litres inside, that includes ATF that's left in the torque converter when your engine is not running and when you are doing an oil change.

Flushing process takes 8-14litres of new ATF. Change 4litres only, you'll only contaminate that particular 4litres of atf lol. By flushing, you may be also able to get rid of some minor problems such as late gearshifting, etc.

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Added on April 8, 2010, 11:16 pmEngine Oil :

Yes, some people do believe in flushing. Well, pouring in just a flush chemical is not really gonna help. The best method is to pour the flush chemical in with fresh cheap new engine oil and let it run idle for like 20mins, drain the oil, pour another round of 4litres cheap oil and drain again. By then, you're able to pour in your desired oil already.

Observe this :
Do a flush process, your new oil lasts longer and turns black at a slower rate.

Dont do a flush, observe how fast ur current oil turns black.


Of course, there are some flush chemicals that are harmful to ur engine, that i must admit. However, some are not - These good chemicals not only removes sludge and carbon in ur engine, but also CREATES A COAT OF PRIMER WHEREVER THERE'S METAL TO METAL FRICTION. With this done, you don't need any other engine oil additives already .

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Added on April 8, 2010, 11:20 pmI did mention Lubegard's ATF protectants.

Common failure on a BMW E36 328i's gearbox is that it breaks down at a certain mileage (which i cudnt remember when). Lubegard was used since the car was bought on day one, and it ran an additional 100k km extra till it breaks down compared to other cars of the same model that was bought at the same time.

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Added on April 8, 2010, 11:29 pmTo keep your engine at optimum condition, i strong believe that you guys have to do more than just an engine oil change .

This post has been edited by ThunderGod_Cid: Apr 8 2010, 11:29 PM

haha good to hear that bro! he's indeed very knowledgeble eh? very busy man but very committed to what he's doing.

Just noticed it's V8 already , keep them going.

anyway , my friend told me that he notice petrol smells right after we reach our destination. It's not from inside the car but somewhere around the refilling cap/petrol there.

Anyidea if it's leaking or anything I chould check ?

Its good that they used it, experience & come out with majority review. Anyway different people different satisfaction ba I tried Falken on my last car & I can say nice on dry grip sucks on wet grip. Then using Turanza both wet & dry grip is average. I change toSime astar 300 & wet grip better than Falken worst than Turanza. After that I using NCT 5 ECO dry grip is better than sime astar 300 wet grip worst than Sime astar 300. Now using NCT 5 & I am sure wet & dry grip + noise level is better than Sime astar 300. If u go for NCT 5, make sure not the 1 with "eco"

This post has been edited by swk_sam: Apr 9 2010, 01:18 PM

Andy, I had the same problem, I changed the Fuel Cap/cover and its fixed.. The rubber had worned out and everytime I take a right turn some petrol comes out..

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Added on April 9, 2010, 10:47 amI would never recomment NCT 5 as it wears of too fast for spirited driving and after 30% thread has gone you start losing grip real bad in wet or dry.

Even worse is the conti cc1, though I heard the conti cpc2 is quite good, but not sure if got 195/55/r15. I'm no falken ziex 912 and wet grip isnt too good either but dry is quite decent.



This post has been edited by ray86: Apr 9 2010, 10:47 AM

If got budget sure go for better tyre But Falken & Astar 300 will out of my list if I still affordable

I'm using yokohama c-drive... good in both wet n dry. But a lil noisy after 50% thread down

Thanks for your recommendation , mind share how much is the Fuel cap/cover they usually charged ? I can get it directly at spare spart shop right ?

Anyway , what's so worse about Conti CC1 ? have been using it and don't feel anything worse if compare to NCT 5.

I also have petrol smell once in a while when reach destination... But not every time