v8 de

eh, swk_sam, add the latest modification done by my sister to my waja. it was a twin tip.....


continue with the tires talk. am speaking on my own and others experience with different tires.
the test is sometimes biased / too static coz' they usually take the tires for test when the tread is well over 90%. will you change your tires while it still has 70% tread? no, right? unless the tires is burst.
fyi, nct5 below 75% tread sux big time. this is where the cheaper sime astar 300 beat it on wet grip. of course sime astar 300 is noisy due to it's directional style tread but it still being considered as a value buy. good tires is fundamental. good braking system with lousy tires is almost hopeless, so, both works in tandem.
i never bought a tires based on the manufacturer / group test alone. but based on compiled real life experience of many. esp. when the tread showing more wear.

btw, am a ps3 convert! the 2 pcs of ps3 donut i bought last week start showing it's true color. top notch



tjroy@
what is your car's mileage? lack in pick up doesn't necessary caused by the build up of heat on auto gearbox. it could be the throttle body, or wear out spark plug, weak battery / alternator and so on... when the throttle body is congested, car will takes forever to reach ratio change. thus caused the sluggish pick up and slowing gear change.
fyi, waja 4g18p gearbox is very robust. my friend had been using his waja auto up to 250k mileage without any problem. travelling pahang-kl-pahang without using atf cooler.
atf usually need to change around 15k - 20k mileage cover.

i installed an atf cooler to my waja auto before but removed it due to another problem; at times, gear refuse to change due to atf become too cold.
a good mechanic who used to works for a few big car's manufacturer, including proton, advice me to remove it and there is no problem ever since!
atf cooler is must on perdana though!

tjroy@
atf need to be in certain temperature to run properly. cold start temperature is fine but i found mine at times refused to change especially when traveling at higher speed.
no such problem before i installed the atf cooler thou.
decide to remove it and problem solved!
perhaps, you could install an atf cooler if your frequently stuck in the jam. cost under 300 bucks with installation. mine was of bosch.
make sure the re-routing of atf done properly to avoid a leakage.

btw, in some cases, mileage nearing 200k entitle to go for top overhaul?
but my friend's already closing in at 250k an no sign of needing a top overhaul yet.

never on the atf but engine oil additive, yes!
and this particular brand of engine oil additive is simply fantastic! had been using it on every service interval


it's not advisable to change to fully synthetic at sych a high mileage. better option will be semi synthetic, if the car is already on semi synthetic, just try another brand. agree with you on the atf cooler functionality

you can go wrong with the new michellin ps3 i just bought 2 pcs of 225/45/r17 for my regular ride. wet and dry traction / grip is damn good!
one of the best i've had ever use.
planning to buy 195/55/r15 for my waja too.

nct 5 use to comes standard even on new civic cars. hence, more ppl voted for it because they are already using it since the 1st day they bought the car.
btw, have you ever tried 'em all by yourself?

stay away from gab. use em for less than 3 months before i sold off. if you want the best of both world, get an apm performax. expensive but it's worth
it! performance and comfort in one package.
not promoting ea but imp is definitely a better buy over the gab!
standard hi lo adjustable abs is stiffer, unless paired with custom made spring. choose one that suit your driving style

can't....typo error.
the 225/45/r17 for my regular ride with zr rating cost 700 bucks a piece. performance was well over my expectation.
compare to yokohama s.drive, ps3's wet traction and dry grip is better... and quieter too!
going to get a pair for my waja next weekend. 195/55/r15 price around 250.
heard that jalan kapar in klang selling below 240 bucks.

as far as i know, cyberjaya and putrajaya are the place where the traffic enforcer isn't so strict. as long as it doesn't obstruct the traffic flow, should be no problem.
which part of cyberjaya are you in? i used to come to measat every week.
maybe we con go yamcha at old town.

btw, last time front cost me 180 bucks each while rear 110 bucks each. complete apm performax abs with spring setup is about the same with mines adjustable. it match the mines in handling while still maintain the comfort on regular drive.
my gab all round setup(with gab spring too) start to soften up after 2 months. nose dive
on hard braking. perhaps, i am the unlucky buyer.

was in segaria auto about a year back. very helpful / knowledgeable guy. his staff even come and lead me to his workshop.

petrol smell may have nothing to do with the fuel cap. after all, there is another lid that only open up when the pump tip inserted.
check the 2 fuel hose(1 small and 1 big rubber hose) underneath the car(rear right) that connected the tank.
chances are worn out rubber may leak, thus caused the petrol smell. will be more obvious when driving on full tank.

few of my friend drive their 4g18p auto like a manual car. when there is no instant torque available
in high gear, the'll just push the gear lever to 3 and vroom... waja auto was design where you don't have to press the button to change from d to 3. refer to manual book for better understanding.
perhaps, your 17" is made of stone or you didn't floor metal to metal
btw, just drive at own pace and it will be fine.

same here. already send 2 car to everco and they never disappoint me. planning to send my regular ride there soon.
after changing tyre, this month budget down.

iLuv_Ice@
since it was your 1st ride up to genting,
make sure your left with at least half tank of petrol too! 2/3 is better!
although the distant is near but running constantly on low gear consume more petrol.
Use 3 or 2(depending on your confidence level, you can always switch between 3 or 2) in karak and all the way up to genting. careful of the winding road.
if the drive is too challenging for you, just change to 2 and drive at the slow / middle lane.

use 3 or 2 alternatively on the way down. drive safely and enjoy your trip


** how old is your battery?
any problem when you turn on the light or signal? if they function as usual, battery should be ok.
perhaps you need to check the spark plug / starter as well.



This post has been edited by yngwie: Apr 10 2010, 05:14 PM

much depend on your own preference / driving style. beside giving a better speedometer reading, profile 60 will be able to absorb the impact when going over potholes better than profile 55, thus provide a more comfortable ride (tyre sidewall and pressure play a factor too)
but profile 55 offer better ride on winding road.
choose your pick.

d = 1st to 3rd gear, 3 = 1st to 3rd gear. my waja start at higher rpm in 3, btw. if the car feel under power in d, you can always push the gear lever to 3 anytime.
i usually drive in d on the way back from genting. thats make good of a my twin pot brake setup.
the unusually noisy engine sound was due to the engine braking when the gear stuck in 3.

thread suddenly comes alive

try 60mm throttle body
swapping starter will only gives a v6 longer and bassy starting sound which is nice

you don't need the L at all. unless you stuck in the mud or going on extreme uphill drive . 2 or 3 will be fine when stopping half way uphill.
you can just pull the gear from D to 3 while you're driving at 90km/h while changing to 2 may require a speed below 60km/h.
there is a speed limitation on each gear. else, too much engine braking and sudden gear shift may strain the engine and gear box.

exactly! that's why for me, changing to walbro 255lph, gear cog, bigger throttle body and dohc conversion(just to name a few) will be more viable when done with piggyback in unichip or e-manage.

never try before. but walbro 255lph and sard fr is a most sought item in after market modification.
i changed almost everything actually... just for fun! if not, i already ask steven to mod the rom
only seat, dashboard and exterior remain untouched.
extra works on wiring need to be done due to no dashboard swap
still working on a dual fuel rail to feed the mivec top which is quite hard to figure out. if it doesn't work, i'll just plonk in the ori head.

stock 4g18p auto gear box could max out around 185km/h(digital meter reading). cog change coupled with gear ratio alteration should be good for an extra 18km/h on the top speed.
while waja 4g18p engine is quite robust, in the long run, it may not be able to withstand the constant high revving.
a few moment of madness should be just fine
btw, during a short wangan drive, how fast we reach the top speed matter most!

where did you get your 4-2-1 done? was it a properly tuned length?
are you using s-flow exhaust as well?
perhaps, the 17" rims might be too heavy for the car

jolipoli81@
you could have ask wai heng for a branded setup...
should get your exhaust setup checked at everco.
my car also giving the same problem while still using the cap ayam one. after 3 months, carbon deposit on the extractor is so thick
feels like the car is out of breath
spend a good 800 bucks at everco and problem solved!

btw, 17" rims and tyre will be heavier than the stock 15". thus affect the fc.

i'd been there experimenting with brake system for so long ....
using cross drilled and high performance pad on standard single pot, there is no different in braking distance. no matter how you pair it.
brembo cross drilled + bendix metal king pad = reduced brake fade effect thus makes the brake system more resistant to brake fade on constant braking.
ie; standard brake pad + rotor = brake fade after 8x braking or so.
cross drilled + high performance brake pad = brake fade after 13x braking or so.
it will not reduce the braking distance.
amount of caliper + bigger disc = shorter braking distance but without dual layer brake servo, this upgrade may require pumping the brake pedal if the amount of 'vacuum' produced by the engine is not strong enough.
remember to get a good set of tyre too!
eh, you use the bendix pad as an excuse to upgrade the brake next time, right?

it will reduce the the bubbles friction. thus braking feel more solid
evo twin pot comes standard with brake hose, as in mine, so, i use the evo stock brake hose and a pair of pro rs for the stock rear brake.
btw, are you on dual layer brake servo too?

from my experience, yes.
but id does give a slightly better brake feels due to thicker new pad coz the smallest different in new pad is big when it comes to braking

wah! can beam those road hogger means your car very powerful already....

ray86@
changed my regular ride to 245/45/r17 (rear only) but waja not yet cuz' car still in tuning mode.
easily the best ever tyre i've had ever use!
c.drive, s.drive, t1r, goodyear f1(directional), direzza dz101, bridgestone re007(or 010?? can't remember), and even the older ps2 is a no match!
wet and dry traction / grip is top notch! don't be fooled by the soft looking tread. it's water dissipation is better than those directional tyre.
forget about ps2, get the ps3 instead!

btw, stock waja 195/55/r15 should be around 240 bucks in klang area.

jolipoli81@
if it was completely drain out. 3.5 liter will be just nice. if the engine oil is too much it goes over the full mark, car will feel suffocate during an acceleration

i'd been giving back my 0.5l of semi-synth left over all this while and happily donate 'em to friends
of course they charge for 4l cuz it's in a standard price but only 3.5l will goes into your engine. if they pour in all 4l, it will go well over the full mark on measurement stick. chances are they pour in 3.5l for 4g18p or 3.8l for campro and they keep the left over.
you can ask them for it, btw

metal type is more reliable than those plastic cuz it doesn't melt under prolonged exposed to hot sun. only drawback was if it wasn't properly installed, you will hear a tak' tak' sound from the door panel while turning or going over uneven bump

This post has been edited by yngwie: Apr 26 2010, 08:02 PM