EDIT: Ok, since I've gotten a lot of questions regarding pelting the rig, before insulating and instaling a pelt, please read this Choosing the Right Pelt Guide first o.k. END EDIT

Even though there are varios methods of insulating and instaling a pelt to you rig form international sites, I still having trouble in getting one to set in my rig especially when using/finding material/tools that are refered to at those mat salleh site . So after some painstaking head banging thought, i'll try this method of insulating and installing a pelt to my existing w/c rig (an op spiral w/c set) using materials there are readlily available in Malaysia.

Objective 1: Insulating the Muthaboard.

The Mobo:

My Abit AN-7 vanilla (without any mod).


The tools:
1. Masking tape = RM 2.50 per roll
2. Old News Paper = f.o.c.
3. CRC Plasticote 80 with UV reactive (availabe at any electronic part shop) or some would prefer the urethene spray. (i'll show you later why i choose CRC Plasticote 80) = RM25.00

Cost = RM 27.50

The Steps:

1. Covering anything which has exposed metal with the masking tape. Approx time taken = 15 minutes.


2. Lay the board on a piece of Surat khabar lama on a flat surface. And spray with CRC Plasticote 80 as per instruction of the can. Here I used 3 layers of coat, with 1/2 hours interval. Approx time taken = 1 1/2 hrs. (be very generous when spraying on and around the slocket are and center slug)


3. O.k. now i'll show you why i choose CRC Plasticote 80 against the urethene spray.


see.. it's UV reactive. Thus i can confirm full coverage by bathing the board with uv light.

4. Now after all is set and fixed(dried) flip the board and start the work on the back side. and confirm the corverage.


continued....

This post has been edited by amok: Oct 4 2005, 04:15 PM

Ok... now come the serios part which is insulating the slocket and slug area.

Objective 2: The Socket and Center Slug.

The tools:

1. BRUSH ON Liquid Electrical Tape (Ace Hardware Ikano: Thanks arj for the recomendation) = RM20.90
2. Syringe (errrr you can get it at certain pharmacy or doctor friend )
* The Liquid Electrical Tape is used to replace conformal coating laquer. = F.0.C
3. CRC dielectric grease (I've got it at brothers car accessories Melaka) = RM 7.50
4. Clossed Cell rubber (any brand will do, i've got it at and air cond parts shop for RM 5 per 1'x4'x 3/8" and RM 4.80 per 1' x 4' x 1/4" neoprene is hard to come by and expensive @ must import) They called it "Insulating Sheet".
5. NT cutter = err... dunno got one in my house.
6. Ruller/measuring stick (steel)= can't remember how much cause ledi have.

Cost = RM 38.20

The steps:

1. Use the syringe to "suck" the electrical tape from the can and fix it around the socket and inside the center slug. Be extra carefull and fast because this liquid harden within minutes, i've coated only two layers and left it to fix for 3 hours. Approximate time taken : applying 20 minutes, drying 3~4 hours. Move the lever in and out from time to time to ensure it doesn't stuck.


2. After that few hours of fixing and drying, the tape will solidfy and harden, test it by touching it with your fingers. If it still lembik or soft leave it to dry some more. Next is to squirt one tube of CRC dielectric grease on the socket and press it in the holes with your fingers. (Don't squirt the tube in one go, do it little by little bit by bit)

Keep pressing/pushing the dielectric grease and move the socket lever in and out till you can see the grease pond in the socket hole (meaning no matter how hard you try to push the grease it just stay there.) I've used the whole tube. Approximate time taken 10 minutes.

3. Now came the "use your immagination and creativity part". The closed cell rubber either neoprene brand or any brand. Just make sure it is clossed cell rubber!!!. Since mine come in sheet, i've to measure and cut it appropriately according to the sizes of the socket, center slug and later the cold plate+TEC assembly. Approximate time 15 minutes ...till forever (if you've no cutting skills.)

I'm using a normal NT cutter to cut, a steel ruler to marks and measure the cutting are and a lighter to lit my ciggarete .

4. Insert a square 1/8" think rubber into the center slug.
Prettty straight forward approximate time 5 ~ 10 seconds.

5. O.K. next is inserting your cpu... err if you wanna do the L12 wire mod do so before this step. Place the cpu gingerly on to the socket and gently swivel it while pushing in. (remember the holes on the socket is filled with dielectric grease thus quite some force is required to push the cpu in) Do so GENTLY but with force. You'll get the idea. Approximate time 5 minutes.


6. Next pust the lever down and fix the prepared insulating sheet around the socket. Straight forward oso, time taken = 2 minutes.

Well i guess that about it then, the mobo is fully insulated.

7. Ok one more the back side story... i've already coated the back side with plasticote 80 but for added assuarance i've brush a layer of electrical tape on the socket pin and stick an isulating sheet on that area. Though some mat salleh said it is unncecessary.. but i'm no mat salleh.

continued...

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 13 2005, 03:54 AM

O.k. mobo done insulating. Now come the pelt assembly part. I'm using a 120W pelt bought from .1. bulk. err forgot what the Imax, Vmax= 15V, deltaT approximately 68~69C. Why only a 120watter? i'd reckon since using only a 45w moble xp and i'm not that keen to get sub zero temps... yet.. and i'm thinking of using the same iCute p.s.u. that i had to power up the pelt... is it safe? for the proc i mean? Well lets see the calc..

Power Disipated = listed power x (max volt/stock volt)Square
= 45 x (2.03/1.45)(2.03/1.45)
= 88.2 Watts

Here i'm planning the max Vcore is 2.03. So 120W pelt can take care 88.2 watts oced proc. But don't expect any sub zeros temps O.k. enough of the horse sh@t lets get down to business.

Final Objective: Mounting the Pelt.

This is a DIY upgrade for an existing Water cooling set, so there are no readily made pelt mounting kit for this water block.

The tools.

1. 120W pelt (50mm x 50mm x 3mm) = can't remember mebbe MR70.00
2. 2 x 50mm x 50mm x 3mm Copper plates (lapped till 1000 grit) =RM 20.00
3. Existing water block
4. G-clamps (G-Vice) = borrowed
5. Epoxy = RM6.90
6. Thermal Interface Material (i've got oni Arctic Silver 5) = ledi have
7. Plastic Glue Gun = borrowed
8. 1 x box of 20's Marlboro lights (if no money L&M oso can) = RM6.50

COST = RM103.40

The steps:

1. Squirt the AS5 on the center of the copper platse that will be attaced to the Pelt and fix/apply the sides of the pelt with epoxy. ...I'm terribly sorry, i'm using a quick dry epoxy and didn't manage to get the pics of this process cause i must clamp the plates pelt sandwich before the epoxy it is fixed.. You can opt for other epoxy that has a longer fixing rate that the one i'm using.


2. Clamping the cold plate and pelt sandwich.. there is an article implying the necessity to exert force on the Pelt to ensure the efficiency of thermal transfer somewhere.. i'll try to find it later and add the link here. Back to the step. Here is how it looks like while curing.


3. The finished product.. taddaaaaa.


4. Now by using the plastic glue gun, i potted the cold plate and pelt sandwich jus to ensure the cold and hot side of plate is insulated themally.


5. errr... how to explain this one? err, put the w/c mounting screw then slide in another 3/8 thick pre cut insulating sheet err.. like the pic below. Bear in mind that the cold side of sandwich is facing down and the hot side is facing up.



push in the cold plate/pelt sandwich gently till it wont budge.. do not push with excessive force cause it might damage you proc.

6. EDIT: Lay a layer of AS5 on the hot/up side of sandwich before inserting the water block. (thank you katopunk for reminding). Finally, slide in the w/block, gently till it wont budge and fastened it with the thumb screws... phewwwuuuhhh. done.


Hope this guide has been helpfull for those who're thinking of upgrading/adding a pelt in your existing w/c set. Thank you.

Next is the result:

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 13 2005, 03:58 AM

O.k. screenies of temp reading with the pelt.

1. Idle temp at default fsb and multi and Vcore.


2. Load temp at default fsb and multi and Vcore.


For oced reading.. sorry, had not chance to oc it yet, i'll edit this post later to add screen shot of oced temp.

EDIT: Ok, oced result, just so and so, well what to expect.. i'm using just an entry level w/c set and an AQYHA steppings 2500+ mobile



And the max oced (won't boot if more regardles of how much more Vcore i've pumped)

neurra: i've been busy doing this log i'll post you the cold plate next week ye.

--END.

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 15 2005, 12:24 AM

amok, steadyness!
dude, i wonder if u got put any AS5 between ya sandwich and the water block?

thank you, thank you, thank you... i've forgot to mention. I'll edit the post. Yes i've put AS5 in between the hot side and the w/block. I'll also put it on the proc (but should have been ASCeramique). The TIM is still curing right now. thank you again.

wow... very nice...
a job well done

i spotted a mild seven light lar??? i thought u said malboro in ure guide
anyway very nice tutorial u haf here...experiencing any condensation issues??? i think it shouldn't be a prob since it's not sub zero temp

Great guide there. Made sticky.

Thank you Masterrrr Prod, , glad you enjoyed reading it.

Wah, you can tell even though its not very clear .. Yes It is Mild Seven Lights, cause when doing it, all the kedai runcit closed ledi so had to run to a gerai and left only two choice: 1. Mild Seven Lights or 2. Gold Leaf.

Condensation? so far, from constant monitoring of the area around the socket, No condensation nor sweating. Wait for a few more days then only can declare the insullation is condensation proof. Anything below ambient temperature (in this case 28C ~ 30C) will promote condensation with a rate directly propotional to the humidity of the air.

the part where u stuck plates with epoxy, you could asked in the watercooling thread fot arctic adhesive since whitw_klighter has it. Just a for-you-to know stuff. Great guy though

wow u using op spiral water block.. not bad uh!

great job man, how much does it cost u for all of those thing u have done

Thanks i'll keep that in mind.

Approximately RM169.10 for smoking and RM162.60 for non smoking.

nice jobs...

by da way... how will u rma da bod if its faulty?

Gee thanks.

RMA? The electrical tape is easy to peel off when fix, that's why arj recommended it. As for the plasticote, it is hardly noticeable , i've asked from the shop which i bought the bod, they don't repair mobo, just replace with a new one if they've tested it faulty, and no physical alteration done. Of course if the bod still got warranty lor.

If i'm using those silicone sealant or conformal coat, then it will be a different story lar, Cause those things is a little hard to remove once fixed, need special chemical to remove the coat without leaving any physical mark.

nice one..
nice temp.

using how many watt pelt can get 0 celcius?

Ei,amok brother..why not using your 300watt peltier ler??I expect 3.5Ghz on your monster peltier lar. Your setting make my heart gatal.Going to get the meanwell for my 226 watt peltier soon.Hope can score 3.0Ghz above...

well it depends on :

1. cpu wattage
2. Cooler of the hot side

a 226W pelt can give you well below freezing temp with proper cooling on a 115W proc (oced)

Aiyseh brudder.. don't tell others about my secret weapon lar , neways i dun think the op spiral water block can dissipates the heat from the hot side of a 300 watt, mebbe need at least a maze 4. Yes get the meanwell if you're using anything above 180W pelt, the chapalang p.s.u. will be underpowered. And don't get the "transformer" type d.c. power supply either, it wasn't design for high amperage (believe me i've bought one ) and UGPM.

EDIT: water block name.

This post has been edited by amok: Mar 16 2005, 10:18 AM

really nice temp man..if i use 200watt above peltier dunno can oc my axp 1700+ to 3.0ghz or not..

3.0 with a tbred??? maybe it'll be bootable with a cascade(phase change) setup

Errrkkkkk.... (fall off chair with both feet up in the air).. Mr. Sony San, I'll suggest it'll be more viable if you just upgrade your proc and mobo. But if you insisted on pelting the tbred, please go on ahead, let me know if you need any help, i'll be glad to assist you cause you're going for a 100% oc and it'll be a Malaysian Book of Record just don't forget me when you're famous. .. but for 3.0GHz on a tbred (fall off the chair again), dunno lar.. mebbe the max stable will be 2.2GHz, if you're lucky can get 2.4GHz, but then again i might be wrong.

nice guide there ..planning to do like urs with my tbred also...
using thermalright's hsf, i can manage to hit 26++MHz....but with my older rig which already sold to other people
rite now using DFI UI nf2...and use self made WC with DDM 3 waterblock...
maybe need ur advice to setup mine.....planning to get 28++MHZ..if possible

haha..nice fall man , waiting .1. to bulk for peltier again and break 3.0ghz
i am dreaming

3.0 ghz? *feeling faint*. If that's possible with a pelt, I'm definitely going for it with mobile. So far the hisghest I've seen running stably is 3.2 Ghz is a Mobile running on Cascade (three phase or single phase I'm not sure)

Sony my man ure so ambitious.. maybe u can be the white mouse to make ur 1700+ run at 3.0Ghz. Man ure scaring the proc like hell. Dont day dream too much or later u'll surprised what happen to ur beloved proc. I admire ur spirit... Go Sony Go...

This post has been edited by uzairi: Mar 16 2005, 11:37 PM

Ok seemed you'd oledi had the basic necessity for a pelt upgrade. For a start please read this link first ok [Choosing the right Pelt]. Any querries just shoot, no problem.

This PSU has 36 Amps output , maybe it can power up a 226watt pelt since a 226watt pelt only use 24 Amps , below is the details on the power supply

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Sparkle Power 550W Power Supply, MODEL "FSP550-60PLG" -OEM

Model# FSP550-60PLG
Item # N82E16817103478

Specifications:
Type: ESP12V
Maximum Power: 550W
PFC: Active
Power Good Signal: 100-500ms
Hold-up Time: 17ms min.
Efficiency: 63% min.
Input Voltage: 90~265V AC, Full Range Input
Input Frequency Range: 47Hz to 63Hz
Input Current: 10/5A
Output: +3.3V@27A,+5V@29A,-5V@0.3A,+12V@36A,-12V@0.8A,+5VSB@2A
MTBF: 100K hours at 25ºC
Approvals: UL 1950, CSA C22.2 Level 3, TUV EN60950, NEMKO EN60950 (CB Report),CE

i found this PSU at HERE

Hi sony, good to see you in high spirit about pelting your rig. The p.s.u you showed is good if you hadn't had a p.s.u. for you rig yet. But if you're thinking of buying a new p.s.u i'd suggest you buy a meanwell S-320-12 or S-320-13. I'm trying to get them mebbe end of this month and it is suitable to become a dedicated p.s.u for your pelt and cost less than that p.s.u. from newegg. Want to discuss more please use the other thread about pelting, thank you.

woops i think i am out of topic , btw thanks for ya suggest

Hi, just wondering if u guys have seen the Thermal Take Thermo Electric CPU cooler? I just saw on the net, very simple set up like a normal HSF. Can c it at www.thermaltake.com. U guys think it's any good?

u mean thermaltake subzero 4g as in HERE?
u can ask the writer of that article, trowa008, as it is belong to him.

The review at pcmodding oni sez good 4 stock speeds. Is it any good 4 for monster OC? I'm planning to OC my Venice like hell. Thought a simple cooler like this 1 will b good. Scared of water lah. Don't like the idea of all that h2o in my PC though it looks real bling.

ianho, actually watercooling is less hectic and safer to set up compared to a pelt setup.. providing you're equipted with the adequate knowledge. The subzero 4g from tt is an alternative to get your toes dip in pelt cooling, thus oni your toes not your entire leg... but bear in mind that a fan cooled pelt isn't as efficient as a watercooled pelt. If you're going hard core, a phase cooling is most favorable.. just wait for it next month cause i'm venturing into it with the legendary.. bulkhy!!! If just wanna oc till the max a w/cooling set is adequate, pelting is just an upgrade from watercooling. Well it all depends on the moolah you had in you wallet.

This post has been edited by amok: May 19 2005, 02:30 AM

Hahaha. Nice way of putting it. Moolah is ready for WC n the rig is oredi in the Gondola but my knowledge like $hite. Just learned how 2 OC P4 now the AMD 64 with the HTT n soooooo many RAM settings, all like from planet Mars again. Aiyoooo. So u think WC is better than using the subzero eh. OK will start playing with WC after I learn how 2 OC the AMD64.

, good, welcome to the WET side of the force, come join the watercooling discussion thread where most of your queries will be answered, after that, if you wanna upgrade mebbe you can try pelting or phase cooling... and here's a tip on how to OC: LEARN BY DOING NOT BY READING

O.K... i've abandoned a few projects last year due to insuffiecient parts and time. However, i'd like to share a few ideas and projects which involves pelt in watercooling.. but before anyone jump into any conclusion let me just emphasize one more time.. "the most efficient way of cooling with pelt is via direct die".. the projects below are for illustration purposes and not according to actual size.. so behold.. WATERCHILLING WITH PELT.

Design No. 1.


Design No. 2.


Design No. 3.


For all the design above, i do wish that someone will find time and effort to carry out one or all of the projects just for knowledge sake.

nice layout, amok ain't going do another project ?

Just saw a new TEC cooler on retail. It's in the latest issue of Custom PC. MACS brand. Quite interesting. This TEC thingy is a Pelt isn't it. A bit confused by all the different terms. It's just a simple looking HSF n it's powered by ure PSU.

So sorry to lambat reply, Yup TEC aka ThemoElectric Conductor (yup its not a thermoelectric cooler cause a TEC is actually a heat pump) is the same as a Pelt or Peltier(Peltier is the name of a frenchman who discover the TEC properties)

I'd like to quote from CustomPC:
and i'd like to quote my self.. ehem, ehem: alamak my "choosing the pelt guide" is gone ledy. Here is where its supposed to be:Choosing The Pelt Guide.
nvm i'm quoting neway:

Aiyaaa. That review was done in 2003. N different product oso. The MACS one I saw is on the first page of the July issue of Custom PC. I managed to find it here oso http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductInfo...roductID=204877 Mebe the technology has improved over the past 2 years n now better than the AC4G?

ok, sorry bout that.. diff'n design/make but same princple... so as the "Thermaltake Sube Zero 4G".. .. guess you've read all bout it in Xtreme Computing Review. In that reveiw they're comparing the MACS wif TT Typhoon and AMD stock.. well .. Even your Corsair Cool's can whoop this MACS clean at load temp man... again like to requote:
either or, pick your poison man... like to add: for modern day processor (Post 2000) it is highly recommended to use at least a 220W Pelt for Barton Core and a 320W Pelt for the Presschott core... for the 64bit platform, sorry i hadn't had the chance to play with any yet... maybe soon

This post has been edited by amok: Aug 1 2005, 12:41 AM

I got a regular peltier i need to run, but the problem is, all my spare PSU are OUC (out of commision) or KIA (killed in action) .

Is there any particular power adapter or some other ingenious way which i can use to power up the peltier? Besides buying a new PSU of course . Any help is greatly appreciated =D

If it runs on 12v you can just get a DC adapter (the ones used for external modems, walkmans, etc...) at any local electrical shop, however, the max amperage I have ever seen was only 1A, I'm not quite sure wether that would suffice for a peltier...

This post has been edited by Dead__Man: Sep 2 2005, 06:05 PM

maybe you can try using power adaptor/transformer for halogen lamps. they run on 12v with 20w or more(fixed wattage per adaptor)

hmm.. my peltier is rated 70watts, so that would means i need approx 5.8A right (12v peltier)

0.o does PSU actually able to supply that much?

bonjorno...hey antonio.. no problemo, let me sort out a few things first before i'll update this thread with some calculation on choosing the right pelt.. plus plus a few comment about w/block suitable for pelting and those readily/commercially availabe pelt+w/block in the market... cause the "puasa" month i won't be doin any travelling muahahahahaaa.

thank you mr otai san... UGPM.

ok.. for a start please read this link first regarding choosing the pelt: cause i'm lazee to re'taip' me other "choosing the right pelt guide".

1. The Ultimate Guide to TECs

THEN yread this one:

2. TEC undervolting charts

ok? ani questions please post ere so we all can share the answers.. currentli i think aleck is another one who is actively using pelt to cool off his rigs.

O.T.: like what happened to all the "y" in this forum?

Well, this is as much that I can salvaged from a previous deleted thread regarding pelt usage, ... I hope to share some knowledge and experience with other forumers who had use a pelt or venturing/planning into using one be it on you proc or gpu. I hope that those who'd experienced with pelting their rig would share you knowledge with us. A word of advise: Please Use A Watercooling Set to cool off your Pelt. This is just a rough guide for choosing the right pelt for the right purpose. SORRY NO detail explaination such as:

1. What's a Pelt?
2. Characteristic of TEC Material (pnp or npn).
3. Kirchoffs Rules.
4. How Pelt work.
5. Eddy Currents or Freddy Krugger or Darth Vader etc. etc.

In another word this will be all in layman's term . Those of you with ample or great knowledge in electronics can spare the details latter on when replying to querry posted here.

O.K. enough of this camel dung lets get to work. (Let's try to make it sweet and simple)

1. Things You Need to Know Before Starting.

a. Stock Wattage/Power of your current proc.

b. Stock Voltage of your current proc.

c. Stock Speed (GHz) of your current proc.

d. Estimated(angan-angan) Voltage of Overclocked proc.

e. Estimated(angan-angan) Speed (GHz) of Overclocked proc.

f. Estimated Wattage/Power of your Overclocked proc.

For a, b and c you can get by the label of your proc's box or through their manufacturers site. But for (f) you need to do a little bit of calculation.

Estimated Wattage of OCed proc = Stock Wattage x ((OCed Speed)/(Stock Speed)) x ((Oced Voltage)/(Stock Voltage))Square

or

f = a x (e/c) x (d/b)Square

There you go. But if you're lazy there is a simpler way which is by clicking this Power Calculator.. (Hahaha). Once you got all the figures jotted down move to no. 2 below.

2. What temps you're planning/Dreaming to Achieve

First of all, Pelt is NOT as efficient as how people tend to believe. So don't, I repeat, don't put to high hopes that your pelted rig will perform the way you'd planned or calculated. Usually it tends to be only 65%~75% efficient.

O.K. you've got the figures in No.1 above. Let's find the right pelt for your oced proc.

First rule, the maximum theoretical delta T (max temperature difference) between the hot side of the pelt and the cold side of the pelt on ALL TEC pelt is around <69C.

Second rule, the higher the wattage of TEC rating (e.g. 40W, 80W, 120W, 220W etc) the higher the percentange for a TEC to reach the max delta T.

Lets see how the actual delta T can be calculated:

Actual Delta T = (1 -(cpu wattage/TEC wattage)) x Max Delta T or

Actual Delta T = (1- (f/TECwattage)) x 69C

Confused?

NVM lets look at an example: Samy wanted to oc his 1700+Tbred to 3Ghz. And using a 220W TEC pelt and max Vcore is 2.0V From the calculation on No. 1 His Oced Proc Wattage (f) = 180W.

So His Actual Delta T
= (1 -(180/220)) x 69C
= (1 -0.818) x 69C
= 12.55C

Meaning samy has succeeded in bringing the temps of his cold side 12.55 cooler that his hot side. Easy isn't it. Yeah but remember the 65% inefficency? So his actual Delta T is 12.55 x 65% = 8.175 C

Let say samy got an ideal/perfect W/Cooling set that can bring his hot side to room temp (lets say in Malaysia about 28C)
thus with this pelt his proc temp will be : 28C - 8.175C = 19.82C.
(providing samy can find a that ideal water cooling set).

I guess thats about it. , before buying your pelt please make use of the calculation above in determining what Wattage suits you, don't simply buy and regreted later. Pelt isn't easily available here in M'sia. I guess alot of us learn it the hard way. (But not me hah, hah, hah)

3. Powering the Pelt.

Very simple... don't use your rig's psu full stop. Use a dedicated one, no matter how impressive or expensive your antec, enermax, thermaltake or thermalright or thermalleft, TEC draws a lot of current!!! and they're inconsistent. I can use up this whole thread trying to convince and explain to you about not using the same psu for your rig and TEC Pelt but i won't. Google lar , no need to be spoon fed right?

So a meanwell S320-12V is too expensive? ok lets try a decent psu with a normal 12V rail.

Actual Current = (12Vp.s.u/Pelt Vmax) x Pelt Imax

Lets say samy is using a 220W pelt wif an Imax of 25A and Vmax of 15V

Actual Current = (12/15) x 25A = 20A

Then again the efficency of you pelt will be lessen by 20% thus effecting the Wattage of you Pelt to 80% of 220W = 176W pelt. Dissapointed eh? welcome to the darkside beb.

Well I guess that cover most important part in choosing the right pelt. If anyone had any good link please post it here so we all can refer to. Till then good luck.


HERE ARE THE LINKS FOR PELTING

1. Xtreme System Ultimate TEC Guide

2. Pelt-Technology Explained (at ProCooling.com)

3. Peltier Coolers (at digit-life.com)

4. Major Pelt Articles at www.overclockers.com

5. TEC undervolting charts]

O.k. enjoy reading. I'll edit to add more links latter on.

This post has been edited by amok: Oct 4 2005, 04:07 PM

Okay, hope the guide above will help. Now for those who have the moolah (RM) to get a commercially availabe Pelt KIT, there're two manufacturer who can offer these readymade kit. Let's look at two "old school" competitors:

1. Danger Den with it's DD Maze 4-1
2. Swiftech with it's MCW5002 XT series

Well both of em are using the same assembly design which is:

W/Block + Pelt + Cold Plate.

Previously however swifty is using a rather radical direct water cooled TEC block, but it seemed the product is no longer available for the cpu TEC, oni the VGA TEC cooler is still using the older assembly...The Swifty MCW462 X T series (heh guess swifty realize the Maze 4-1 design is better).

Please take your time to go through the reviews.. and lets discuss ere.

Here is a simple java based program i made.
I called it Peltier Estimator
Its useful for those that interested in getting peltier, and had a hard time to calculate from those formulas, here is an application for you guys

Screenshot #1 :


Screenshot #2 :


note:
1. due its a java based application, so you must have Java Environment to run it
2. if any miscalculation/ bug found, feel free to PM me

Evogenix


Attached File(s)
 PeltierEstimatorV1.0.zip ( 4.49k ) Number of downloads: 198

1 Q bro amok....

issit when we get the 'moolah' peltier kit from lets say for example swiftech...does all the hassle of insulating are required??? or does it chill it to a level which does not create condensation....such AI does it exits??

Well, once your pelt temp drops below ambient room temp, condensation will occur.

Unless you wanna cool your proc ngam ngam to 30 degrees celcius........

, nice one evogenix, Need to emphasize that the Pelt wattage after calculation is the wattage needed to dissipate by the waterblock. Good job ,hope everybody knew hot to run java apps.

And i'd reckon the calculation has taken into account that the pelt is ideal (meaning running at ideal/rated volt and Amp e.g. 12V, 20A etc.) Good job again , i like it.

anthonio@ as long as you're runnin yer rig below dew point, condensation will occur be it with pelt or phase change.

What happends when this motherboard.....



combined with a modded version of the....



which means i wont be using the blue heatsink or what so ever except for the TEC device which is i've taken out aledi....

and as for safety....



and



wil be used...(Thanks to ARJ for directions of getting those stuffs.... )

Yesterday started my "Cool Cool Babeh!" project...Achieve interesting temps too...Aint frost...but cool enough....here at the pics...No benchie were run because of my rams aint being much good yesterday...need setup again...aiyakkk...



this is area which i had clean up my room again just to make sure safety is a must...and the fume from the electrical tape can make u high a bit if too much is inhaled...On the lef of the LP box is a monitor and a left of the monitor is a window..



This will be the TEC cooler from Thermaltake which i'm going to use to get better temps....



the preparation was done abit 'kelam kabut' bcoz i need to use the pc for work file trnasfers...arghh..



I was shocked because when i was pouring the electrical tape on to the mobo....i remember i poured on just near the section of the socket...then suddenly nature calls....when i return i notice it has been spread out until the capasitors and the rams slots area....aiyakkkk....

I noticed on the capasitors there was a brownish color being mixup with the tape...what is that?????



Arghhh..without wasting much time....i quickly continue work and forget about the brown leaking capasitor....i reach for the dielectric grease and pour it on the socket....rub untill each corner has been dielectric greased....

This post has been edited by antonio_zth: Dec 22 2005, 06:18 PM

.. keep em posting anthonio sorry for my absence. Any prob pm or post here. k.

By the way whats the pelt wattage? TQ

This post has been edited by amok: Dec 23 2005, 10:41 PM

around 70w kots....

results....





yeahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!



This post has been edited by antonio_zth: Dec 24 2005, 02:02 PM

feed us more!! feed us feed us

combile with ur bigwater bro?

Do u see any Big Water???



nah ada sket result...not really killer...but enough to show sumthing did run....

yooooooo....helppppp me ASAP....

need to know how to soften the electric tape and how to clean the dielectric grease on the proc and the socket on the mobo......

Mobos Fried....need to send for RMA....

ask c9 or arj, last time i read they said got some kind of spray can clean those electical tape

edited : what mobo that you fired this time ???

Evogenix

This post has been edited by Evogenix: Jan 5 2006, 01:20 AM

DFI nF4 SLI-DR EXPERT + AMD64 3000+

uwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Nice work antho.
But sian expert kaput haiyaaaa
Syok to see something u've almost done there

When done the RMA, pelt round 2 result tu biar screenshot je..hehe tak nampak Cpu-z btw what is the max speed u reach there?

This post has been edited by kingmaker_20: Jan 6 2006, 01:01 AM

cant remember...maybe 300HTT 2700Mhz....

uwaaaaaaaaaaa....still dunno how to clean the sockets and the CPU pins from the dielectric grease...

Pm arj boss lol....

dah..."cuci ngan air sabun he said"....

i thought you can "peel" it off 1?

DIElectric grease how to peel????grease maaa....uwaaaaaaaaa....

Amacam tembak air dr pili kt surface tuh?

Here's my suggestion. Dielectric grease is s till greae, you need to just breakdown the grease. Use concentrated soap water and rendam it for awhile. To loosen up the grease. Then you slowly scrap and sponge the think off. Apa laaa lu....keta bikin mau cuci itu grease pun sudah lupa ka? SLI DR Expert ek? Shian ko...tapi at least proc tak mati macam Si Pedro tuh akibat 3.0v zap bug BIOS dulu.

aiyooo fren....klu kat mobo tuh...can also take out the plastic white cover of the socket and clean the connector for the pins....

if proc How???Use spoonge????crazy ahh....pin patah oOooO....

kereta has a very big big flat surface...apply pressure to it mudguard still ok....if proc how to use pressure...unless i wan to make my processor an LGA 775...all sure patah habis wan...

i'm think of getting a solvent...such as achohol,methanol...but i dunno if there is any chemical reaction towards the board....

anyone know of such thing???

Try minyak zippo, that can soften up the grease. And then use berus gigi gently gosok. Won't bengkok pin lah

This post has been edited by almostthere: Jan 7 2006, 02:32 PM

Amacam antonio, clean edi?

Yalo amacam clean edi?sudah RMA kah
Minyak zipo + berus gigi anthonio

now u tell me!!!...




not yet...


not yet... still looking for isopropyl alchohol....uwaaaaaa

Hardware shop/Kedai lighter(minyak zipo) pon tada??

perghhhh... cleaning those ghooey grease...

i'm using those tape/cd head cleaner fluid (isopropyl alchohol) with fine hair brush +++ lots of em toile roll.. prepare to spend at least an hour for em..

owhh..zippo got aledi...bought from ACE Hardwarwe yerterday some called gogo clean...dunno will work or not...

Try n c...hope you could clean it

i hope so....

Boleh laaa bang. Just soak it for awhile first to let it dissolve the grease and the slowly remove it lo. Kalo bole use cotton, preferably the one for facial

tisu cotton all i dun like to use since it tends to leave a piece of it on every pin....

// offtopic:

ei antonio... remember to take the pictures when you wash you Expect o... you know lor.. not every mainboard as lucky as yours that got chance to bath

should capture it down then share share

Evogenix

This post has been edited by Evogenix: Jan 11 2006, 06:14 PM

HAha...ye betol!
cara bersihkan grease from mobo and processor...

dun wan...i'll open up a class just for that particular reason....RM50 per cleaning lesson....hahahahaha

No thanks...so done the cleaning??when is the 2nd round?

not yet...still bz...

today got Drag Race at Nilai 3 summore..come lar join us...vrommm vroimmmm