when we say second button, second from top or bottom

last button refers to the bottom-most one, so the order starts from top-to-bottom

u see how the bottom part of the suit (right side pocket) is pulling? Its because jackets are not designed to button the last button.

oh i see.. thanks for that info.. Didn't know bout that till now

i noticed this but i dont know why
maybe its just the way it is

just like unbutton the first button of shirt (not for the tie one) looks more casual...

for me, its just easier to sit down without having to unbutton the last one everytime u want to sit down.

The reason is, as stated many many times,

A tailored suit/jacket... is cut in such a way the last button is NOT supposed to be buttoned, if someone DOES button it, the suit will go out of shape with obvious pulling on the lower side.

Been following the suiting thread for awhile now.

Time for me to commission my first bespoke

Just curious, why is it not advisable to commission a black suit? As i plan to only have one suit for now. Wouldn't black be a good colour to have as it will be able to go with most occassions (business or dinners or etc).

As for tailor, think i will pay Ah Loke a visit. Still very confused over cloth. Not too sure what to look out for.

i have question, how thick shoulder pad should be?

black suit is associated with professional job like bodyguard, agent, musician and for attending funerals. that being said, my first bespoke suit was in black

Never thought of it that way.

Since this would be my first suit and would probably be the only one for now. and i would probably use it for most of my formal functions (work and dinners/events) what colour would you guys recommend me for my first suit.

and also... some people have recommended me to get a fused suit instead of a half or full canvased suit since i would not be wearing it often and fused suit would be much more affordable. what are you thoughts on this guys? i dont mind spending a lil more since i will only have one suit for now. and this suit will be my "universal" suit for all suit up events.

You may wanna read up this excellent write up first.

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1351948

I am new to this as well, so perhaps other can chip in.

Dark Navy Blue.

Ah Loke, you better have a list of what you want with the suit, or else he will give u a crap cut and wont even give u working sleeve buttons. With a lot of direction, you will end up with a pretty decent suit for a bargain price.

If you want something closest to black but not black, go for dark or midnight navy. Charcoal grey would be a fine colour too.

Whether to get a fused or canvassed really depends on how much you're willing to spend. What are the differences? Does the construction of the suit really matter to you?

Read this - http://www.styleforum.net/t/269171/canvas-...it-construction. It may a bit technical but an excellent guide nonetheless.

Thanks for all your help everyone. Think i have much more to read and research before paying Ah Loke a visit.

Just curious, everyone seems to be saying no to black. To cure my curiosity , may i ask why? I have always though most formal suits are black. but being a beginner in this area i know i might be wrong.

I think someone pointed some of the more obvious reason, unless you are an undertaker, try to avoid black.

This post has been edited by MeToo: Mar 27 2012, 02:55 PM

Point taken

Not very particular on the structure/construction. i intend to use the suit for a long time so i wont mind spending a lil more. but some have advised me to just get a fused suit since i wont be wearing it very often probably at most once a month.

Just go fused, these days u wont get those bad glue bubbling etc anymore. U will save about RM500.

about the wight of fabric, it is suggested from kotmj post to buy above 300gm. however if it is too heavy it might not also suitable with our climate. my question, what is the max acceptable weight for pure wool fabric? us 325 gm is ok? how about if the weight for pure wool is slightly lower than 300 gm like 290 gm

The 'coolness' of a cloth does not depend only on the weight, but on the weave and porosity as well. 11oz cloth in a twill weave will feel different from a fresco weave with the same weight.

300g vs 290g, what's the difference? 35g for a full suit so it doesn't really matter. 8/9oz is fine for hot climates.