Lumens Factory Seraph SP-9

After some intense cleaning and lubing

Wow... Nothing to do is it?? Now so late still don wanna sleep..

lol, yea, i have to do homework on this thread and update some info


So, for those who don't have a Seraph SP-9, do you feel like owning one now? It is a good P60 type host! Any upgrades boleh punya! XPG drop-in? MCE drop-in? XPE drop-in, P4 drop-in, all no problem! Whatever can drop, just drop it in! HAHA

ok time to zzz

Buy one and drop in an sst 90.

pseudoblue, those are some nice pictures you have there.

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my LiteFlux LF2XT











from left, iTP A3 EOS, LF2XT Q4, LF2XT R2, all on max, 1/100 sec

Errr, I think the specification of the output of Quark 123 is same with Quark AA^2 by the specification, but Quark AA is different. Anyway all these does not mean they are the same driver circuit.


Lets assume they are same driver circuit, but the selfbuilt review does not state the capacity of the RCR123 , it just say AW RCR Black Label, vs the AA is 14500 750mAH, so I think we are comparing an apple with orange.

Yes, size or the volume of the cell does matter, of course, because bigger volume of the cell does transform into bigger capacity in mAH. So a 18650 have 2600mAH, but a 16340 will not.

A simple math will see that 14500 will have bigger volume than 16340, hence it will have more capacity mAH rating.

So a 14500 750mAH will have same run time with 16340 750mAH, but in the reviews, it never state the AW RCR 123's capacity, I guess it is a typical 500-650mAH cell.

So, it is right that AA size flashlight that can take 14500 will have better runtime overall compare with 123 size flashlight taking a 16340, provided using a higher capacity cell in the 14500. AA size 14500 would have more room/volume for lithium chemistry. But on primary, typical 1.5V AA Alkaline would have less power than a 3V Lithium CR123.

So it is confusing, haha, use the capacity rating mAH to gauge the runtime (on same head/flashlight) will never be wrong , if the voltage is same, if not, use the wattage (mAH x Voltage) to gauge the runtime as I sated before.



damonIBS (haha)
Correct, but a 14500 can have a 500mAH whilst a 16340 can be a 650mAH, and vice versa, if the brand, manufacturer , chemistry, model is different. You are right on the 14500 has more room to fill the chemistry, hence more power. BTW, a 16340 LifePO4 only has about 350mAH, wakakaka, which I am using them alot. It is safer (will not explode) with the trade off of the density of energy is lower than li-on.


You idea volume does play a rule as explain above, volume => capacity, of course the most accurate is the wattage as mentioned above.

BTW nitecore EX10 & D10 is same head?? I don't own them. But even so, the review stated using AW RCR123 Black Label, and 14500 750mAH, so both are different capacity I can say.

But a 750mAH RCR123 and 750mAH 14500 (same voltage and Chemistry) would have same runtime on same circuit/emitter, this one pretty sure, haha.

Because power cannot be created or destroy, only convert to another form. BTW, just want to share, like there are ppl selling a device claim can save on power usage in your house, and shows you a claim meter of the current draw lower drastically once the device (capacitor) turned on , this is totally a bluff , because the rule of power never change, P=Wattage = Current x Voltage.

They shows you the Current, but not the voltage. Actually it is not DC, so it is more complex, the power factor comes into play, the device fix the power factor, hence you get a lower current reading, but the true reading, and so you repair the voltage (higher). Hence you are helping the TNB to charge you correctly. Without the device, the power factor is out / altered, so the current looks higher, but TNB meter is Power Meter (wattage), so it will not record the correct unit you use, once you install the device, hehe, TNB will happy to charge you the real unit. (The Ugly truth, sorry if anyone selling this )


To all, I may be wrong, if there are pls correct me.

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Added on December 18, 2009, 3:55 amSir Yes sir, Mr President, whatever you said.

And Mr President, may be add also the mAH also,haha

This post has been edited by susuman: Dec 18 2009, 04:02 AM

susuman

dont confuse people with ur technical stuff

USE the K.I.S.S. theory (Keep It Super Simple) so people will understand better

till now u still havent answer ohhh, does or does not 14500 hav more energy then a RCR123?


Old AW protected R123 is blue with the sticker
is also 750mah i still using them


AW Black lable



IMR16340 is orange




AW LiFePO4 R123 is blue

ok... question... will the brightness of the RRT-0 affected by the battery???

i mean, i understand that a 2000mah batt will last longer than a 750mah battery... if both is 3.7v, that means, i will get the same brightness from both battery types... but the brightness and runtime on the 2000msh will last longer... correct?

Correct

Hey susuman. The Quark 123 and AA uses the EXACT SAME HEAD. Therefore, runtime and brightness should be similar. Do remember that there is still the LED lottery so it will not be the same.

14500 and 16340 has the same rated capacity but usually the 14500 tests show that it has slightly more capacity.


The MiNi will DEFINITELY be brighter. Quite a lot brighter too.


MiNi is a lot brighter than the A1. Remember this. It's 190 LED lumens vs 190 out the front lumens. Also consider X-PE Q5 vs XP-G R5.


Quark AA, 123 and AA^2 uses the same head/circuit. It is a buck/boost and the AA spec is limited by the battery power.
=D

raptor oh raptor... where are youu??

This post has been edited by ggMing: Dec 18 2009, 12:24 PM

I don't think you can self defence with just a flashlight without any skill or know how. Be careful

Nice info on the batteries, will add these to the battery info section later.

Sometimes I prefer technical explanations, the simple just don't cut it lol, but it depends... anyway Susuman did say that:


Selfbuilt didn't mention, but I'm not sure if the earlier ones you've posted got mention.


Yeah, the concept is correct but specific to RRT-0 it can take either AA size or 123 size. So you can't fit 3.7v batteries above 2000mAH sizes. (You might be referring to 1.5v NiMH Eneloop 2000mAH?)

For 1.5v 2000mAh vs 3.7v 750mAH really depends on the driver circuit. For the Quark AA for example, it's more efficient and longer runtime on 3.7v 750mAH. For RRT-0, erm need to look at updated reviews.

***Note that there's a significant difference between 1.5v vs 4.2v, current/amps is another

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Dec 18 2009, 01:20 PM

so, a 1.5v NiMH Eneloop 2000mah wont be as bright compared to 3.7v 750 mah?

I dont have details on RRT-0 yet. Normally Yes.

On a flashlight i know: On Turbo, the driver circuit will draw 700mA with 4.2v li-ion. But with 1.5 NiMH, it will only draw 350mA on Turbo. So you'll get more runtime on 1.5v NiMH generally. It depends on the flashlight hehe, you can get what I mean?


Anyway, I'll be goin out now, laterz

Understood Mr.President!! Have a nice day!

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Added on December 18, 2009, 4:46 pmvery true, but with a very bright torch, at least i have a better chance to get away. Unless, the robber is also a flashaholic and owns a brighter torch ...

This post has been edited by ggMing: Dec 18 2009, 04:57 PM

Anyone here who has the VX Ultra notice the tint on their lights? Mine appears greenish on all levels

never really did check mine, but i think its slightly greenish as well...
but i notice big difference using a non-rechargeable CR123 and a 18650..

when old newpaper pass it to me, check it on the spot it look green,
when go back and check it look warmish till now still look warmish

try play with it more, mayb the SST 50 emitter need breaking in..?

damonlbs, I think it's more like your eyes have gotten used to the tint. If you try compare it with another of your known white / warmish lights, I'm sure you'll see the green tint again. This sucker is bright ... will check it out more tonight.