It sounds like efflorescence coz when the wall is wet, inside also wet, the movement of water is not great. Like you use a soaking wet towel to dry yourself after shower, it will take forever to dry yourself. When you use a dry towel (normally) then the movement of water to the towel is great.

https://www.concretenetwork.com/doug_bannis...florescence.htm

the movement of water leaving behind the mineral deposits are the cause..yes this is for flooring but can read between the lines, basically the surface dry can absorb water from inside the wall..thats why you have the white mineral deposits that come only when the surface is dry.

sounds like he will need some waterproofing to be done or find out the cause of the wet wall, i recall the landed house at my hometown has similar problem where the moisture seep through one of the load bearing wall and caused the paint to peel at the bottom, lucky it didnt get worst

Hi sifus, I wish to get some advise from you all. I just recently VP and started submitting the defects. The interior wall finishing overall is ok except some drips here and there, at least for a newbie like me.

As I'm planning to add new power point and shifting existing one, it's unavoidable that I will repaint my new wall but this is not a problem as I do plan to paint new colors (both light and dark colors at different walls over the existing light grey color). I do have few questions here and hope you can clear my doubts, this would help me to set the expectations when I looking for painter to discuss about their scope.

1. Do I need to scrape off the existing paints?
2. Should I apply 1 coat of primer first?
3. I will be doing the plaster ceiling as well, should I paint the wall first or settle the plaster ceiling first?
4. I heard that you should let your paint work settle down by not opening the windows for few days to avoid hairline Crack. How long should I wait for this before I proceed to my next step of renovation?

Thanks in advance.

Hi,.
1. Brand new place, no need to remove unless dev paint is not paint but is some elcheapo powdery white powder. If it doesnt make your hand all white like flour good to go with colour paint on top.
2. For the newly repatched runs, i.e. cemented after hacking spots, should apply sealer/primer 4 weeks after cementing. To allow the cement patch to dry nicely. If u seal too early it didnt have chance to cure completely.
3. Paint the ceiling first as it is likely the white paint splatter on the wall.
4. No such issue, ventilated well dries better. Unless ur home is titanic problem project where water comes in everywhere. Hairline crack etc more towards shrinkage crack which is pretty common and more to the plastering/skimcoat stage issue.

Thanks bro for the swift response, truly appreciated!

Sis actually most welcome. Also don't throw the excess (leftover paint) so you can do putty over shrinkage cracks/ retouching as needed. Generally if walls are good condition you don't need whole 18L tub of sealer but smaller ones like 1L or 5L tub sizes will be adequate to seal over those hacking runs (assuming no new walls are added).

The colour codes you use for colour paints should be saved someplace safe like gmail or google sheets so you can order them in future. It is easy to order custom paints in almost any colour even inter-brand provided u still have the colour codes on hand.

Opps, thanks Sis! I found you in almost every single thread I'm reading recently about the renovation and your advise in those threads really helped me a lot. I respect and admire your knowledge and expertise, SALUTE.

Ty for the additional tips. If I read it correctly, I do not need to apply the primer over the entire wall but only the parts over those hacking runs?

Thank you happy to help.
Yes you are right, the new sealer just need to cover the newly cemented hacking runs only. So essentially you will not be sealing the whole house again, just the fresh (bare cement) as unsealed cement absorb paint like no tomorrow, (exaggerating here) even if you paint 5 coats it may still look obviously different, plus the fact that paint bonds well to either sealer or previous paint but NOT bare cement.

Sealer is a cheap* "stop leak" solution to stop the cement from soaking up your paint unnecessarily (its the inherent nature of cement) and to provide a nice base for the paint to bond to.

Using colour paint to act as sealer is basically a waste of money

*Whilst there are few types of sealer from cheap acrylic (interior use mostly) to expensive ones, interior sealer like nippon 5100/5400 will do fine.

The developer painted parts are good to go as they've been sealed and painted already, so you just paint over with your custom colour paint.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 16 2021, 11:11 PM

Hi all sifus, wish to check with you guys.

My original paint given by the developer is normal cheap maxilite.

I want my contractor to paint jotun majestic beauty matt
for me.
I personally go to the paint shop to buy the paint.
I pass to the contrctor and ask him to paint for me.
The contractor say don't need primer as maxilite can act as primer.
The contractor also say since got maxilite already, 2 layer is sufficient.
I personally saw the contrctor paint using my paint (jotun majestic), but after 2 layer, the paint came off easily. And my wall macam very easy will have scratches.

My wall is concrete wall.
What is the issues ya?
Why I use expensive paint, but the effect is so terrible?
My old house that uses normal nippon paint can last me 10yr without any scratches or weak parts.

Hi,
Did the painter clean (wipe down) the wall first before start painting?
Coz it can look "clean" to the eye but it can be dusty or powdery from other drilling, hacking work, especially if grinder was used.
Paint does not bond well to dust.

My POV is that for a great finish - more care is needed on the prep work (and using a new roller).
The actual application of the paint (the act of "using the roller/brush") is less important.

For emulsion paint, under-stirring can also contribute to the problem. As paint is a rojak of diff materials, the heavier ones tend to sink to the bottom.
Usually we use a small cordless drill and the nazi looking metal stirrer device (mrdiy got) to stir paint.


https://gardnerlaboratories.com/2013/12/09/...ional-painters/

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 18 2021, 11:09 PM

Oic... Thanks sis.

Any solution to rescue my wall? Because my wall with 3 layer of hajj majestic seem weak now.

What do I need to do to rescue my wall?

Need to repaint it with pruner and paint again?

Show photos .... it says a thousand words.

Like this. 😔

same as mine. it also look like this.

did u touch or wipe the wall before?

Likely the wall was hacked there, and repatched but not sealed afterwards, merely paint over. Unsealed patch (Putty or joint compound or cement) absorb water differently from the "rest of wall" so that's what happened with those hacked patch, thats why it look diff.

Need to seal those patches before repaint.

+1

Your problem solved with the photo as per reply above and use a darker paint color to cover the entire wall.

This post has been edited by mini orchard: May 20 2021, 12:17 PM

apply a layer of sealer or two, then paint over that patch with the same color, if your wall is just painted not long ago, the new color should still be able to blend in well

or you can try to paint the top coat at small area to see if after dry it will become the same finishing as the rest of the wall or not, if it does then just paint over the rest of the affected area

Painted my yard/wet kitchen with Jotun Tough Shield today, color code is 6317 Alphine Snow, it changes it's tone to very light blue during brighter day and greyish blue if there is insufficient lightning

I didnt put blacksplash, so it gonna be exposed to heat and splashing by oil and water daily, let's see how well it can withstand the torture without discoloring


This post has been edited by amduser: May 20 2021, 08:30 PM

Yup, better grade acrylic sealer 1L nippon 5170 rm28 or so but only 1L la so its pretty expensive unless thats the ONLY spot..if its everywhere then can just get the normal 5L nippon 5400 for rm55 so no need worry running out of sealer, 5L will cover a whole living room wall

Painting another 10 layer without sealing the patch only repeat the same effect. That hacked part act like a very thirsty sponge.

Should be OK, unless those caked bits u didnt remove for very long then it start to attack the paint (like lizard dropping, long time didnt remove it will etch into the paint)
My rumaweep using elcheapo SKK white (developer) paint at the yard for cooking also still OK; same oil and water splash (but not titanic soaking wet). You use exterior paint macam very overkill

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 20 2021, 11:29 PM

Thanks all sifus. I manage to solve the problem. after additing two layer of sealer, and repaint with my jotun majestic white 0001, the wall is perfect again.

Thanks guys. 

This post has been edited by Jitty: May 23 2021, 04:35 PM