found my dad's SLR today!



f/2.8, 12.8 mm, ISO 200, Exposure Bias +1 EV

shot in Nostalgic film then slightly lower the temperature in Lightroom, n decrease clarity a bit for the 'glow' ;p

thanks

shud put spoiler tag!!!

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Dec 29 2009, 12:16 AM

eh eh anyone can share some tips on panning??

i was trying to do some panning shots in the afternoon...but since our LX3 aperture can only go up (or down to...im not sure what's the correct term) to 8.0...so my shutter speed become like 1/200. too fast to do panning, no blur at all. ISO is set to 80.

if i put in shutter priority mode and set to 1/60 (i was using the tele end), and even 1/100...the picture will be too bright.

if i turn down exposure composition to -3, the AF-tracking cannot focus at all haha

how??

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Dec 29 2009, 09:12 PM

1/100 is still too bright... i read somewhere the shutter speed shud be like 1/X, where X = my focal length. in this case its 60mm (shud it be 12.5mm?)..but not sure if this applies to LX3 or not haha. anyway is it better to use tele or wide end? n how close should i be?

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Dec 29 2009, 10:12 PM

got cheaper alternatives? sunglasses? haha

need to save up for RAM~

it's iirc lah

LX3 picture quality is better..and 24mm wide versus FX35's 28mm. but LX3's zoom is crap, only up to 60mm...so if u want good zoom the FZ35 is for you. obviously it's bigger lah ;p

got built in HDR mode??? do u mean bracketing? can merge HDR in-camera? how come i never know

when u put in manual focus mode, u can press the Focus button (at the top) and the camera will autofocus 4 u 1st. then u use the joystick to fine tune the focus. this way faster

reduce sun reflection? get CPL filter

for ur macro shots i think need to increase exposure a bit. the LX3 screen is very bright and always fooled me after upload to computer "why so dark??". i always put exposure bias +2/3 EV hehe

it's pictures like this make me proud of the LX3's fast lens hehe

a photo of extended family dinner. i admit it's not even a nice pic, but my other relatives were either getting dark, saturated photos or the bright-flashed-face-with-black-background ones

in LX3, juz use F/2.0, shutter 1/8, ISO 400 and exposure bias +1.3 EV can get like this already


Attached thumbnail(s)

oooo now i know about the HDR thing. never noticed before haha. seldom use Scene mode

juz now the pic is +1.3 (as in 1 1/3) not +1/3 cuz of the low light (mebe that's y i get 1/8 shutter speed? not sure how it works). but thx! ;p

FZ35 got stereo mic for better sound when recording movies

yeap 720p 30fps. supports AVCHD format

oooo very nice! juz tried it hahaha. thx for sharing ;p

max i go with LX3 is juz ISO 400 anyway how to take outdoor night pictures at open-air (no roof) places? e.g. mamak stall. will an external flash help? not sure cuz got no roof/wall to bounce flash

kinda useless-but-very-good point hahaha

FZ35 widest angle is 28mm at 35mm equivalent.

DSLRs like Nikon DX ones, with 18-55mm kit lens, widest is at 27mm at 35mm equivalent.

LX3 is 24mm. not much difference laa~ but the zoom differ very much prefer LX3 for the size n faster lens

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Jan 2 2010, 11:02 PM

or Merge to HDR enough...no need to dodge n burn . i think i still prefer the PP way of doing HDR since can auto align. i dun have tripod hehe

this one dun blame ur camera hehe. maybe need to calibrate the printer?

mostly 4:3 for me... 16:9 for landscape

yeah the smaller the number, the wider wide is the opposite for telephoto/zoom. so 200mm is 'telephotorer' than 100mm, and inversely 18mm is wider than 24mm

the 35mm thing is according to 'full frame' measurements. e.g. LX3 lens is actually 5.1-12.8mm, but more commonly referred to as 24-60mm

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Jan 3 2010, 02:48 PM

this is what we think about it: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/835448

i wont use it. i wont want anything to interfere with the leica lens to protect the lens juz use the lens cap hehehe

dodge is to increase exposure at specific areas only. mostly i juz use this for faces

burn is to decrease. yesterday i used this to darken some makcik's face in the background heheh kacau saja

these two not necessarily for HDR only. the names dodging and burning refers to the technique used to increase/decrease exposure when developing film in darkroom, thereby confusing us in the digital age hehehe

sifu/old timers correct me if im wrong

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Jan 5 2010, 11:39 AM

selling my LX3 to my sister soon hard to say goodbye.. hehe

upgraded to nikon d40 hehe, now need money to cover back the cost ;p

mm got two ways..

(1)
- open the image in photoshop
- use selection tools to select the object u want to be coloured
- in the menu bar, go to Select > Inverse
- now go to Image > Adjustments > Desaturate

the hard part is selection. use this method if the coloured object has a simple shape, or made out of straight lines. for more complex shapes use this method:

(2)
- open image, and from the menu go to Layer > Duplicate
- select the new layer, go to Image > Adjustments > Desaturate
- get the Eraser tool, choose a suitable brush (get the solid circle one, not the 'gradually fading' one, n adjust the size using [ and ] key) and make sure the Opacity and Flow is 100%
- erase the part u want coloured.
- for bigger objects u can just erase the outline, then use selection tools to cut the inside part. since u erased the outline, u can make a rough selection, no need to be so accurate like in (1)

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Jan 11 2010, 02:53 PM

this one is to have only one colour, not one object. lightroom can do the effect as well using brushes, but cannot be as accurate as photoshop