suhail: practical use for shifting gear, adding to that, good help to tune idling RPM.

Bizzy: CDI loh. I'm thinking if you change the other ign coil and valve spring, might as well save up for new block, piston together...

Dragon: Top speed? I suggest you read the whole thread la. some more this is version 3 already loh... the guys here spent countless sleepless nights and working day and talked about every parts you can practically mod... I start following since V2 oni.

Hi guys,
Let's make a list of mods in order of priority? I start first?

-1. Money
0. Tires
1. CDI
2. Block+Piston
3. Clutch
4. Carb
5. Exhaust
6. Cam+Valve+Spring
7. Side mirror

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 10 2009, 10:41 PM

TryX: Can ask how much for me? Paya Terubong, go through from Relau one ah? I'll try that fly-lice some day la.

Charge, what's your say on independent suspension vs strut bars?

How much is RK or SSS o-ring? I found DID for 200 (just the chain).

hello, anyone? O-ring how much roughly?

nevermind, i think i got good deal actually... just checking if anyone is interested. Japan DID chains.

Twist: Is the Motul 10W-30? If not, what grade? Is this since you bought bike?
Which model, full clutch?

When tok tok sound start? Immediate after kick start or after warm up or after riding around? When does it get loudest - idle or slightly higher RPM? Does it go away at higher RPM?

Can you listen and agak which part the noise come from?

breaker: oil manufacturer say don't mix. but i tried to mix 4 types of 4T with different grade together, ok also. personally if you sayang your bike, try not la. Now, I keep all balance and stock up when change EO. Once top up, I'll use it.

Are_keem: take example a 20W-50 multigred EO, the thing about mutigred EO is that cold the time, it's thin (20W), when it's warmed up, it's thick (50 at 210C if not mistaken).

Here's my guess, if tak-tak sound when startup, suspect EO thin, which is common if use 10W or 15W EO. that's why engine should warm up in the morning.
If noise when warm up already, or after riding sometime, suspect EO warm up grade too thin, try to use xxW-40 or xxW-50. Don't use 30W coz too thin.

However, the above is true if engine all good. All parts are nice fit no wear or tear. If some parts longgar already, use what EO also cannot protect engine anymore...

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Added on September 26, 2009, 4:42 amIn certain cases, use cheaper EO example SAE40 may be the solution, coz the thickness is maintained at all temperature (not extreme cold or hot la), and there is no friction modifier or any of those additives. These additives can degrade over time and make multigred EO go bad. At some point, 2-stroke engines actually recommend use this as 4T only go into gear box and it doesn't warm up like 4-stroke engine does...

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Added on September 26, 2009, 4:46 amI've heard about the ES clutch plate problem also from another ex-owner, while we were chatting about his Belang. I am not familiar with this problem, which is why I asked to listen for the source of the tak-tak sound. It may be gear box, head, con-rod, block.... or just some stupid loose screw.

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 26 2009, 04:46 AM

Breaker - I googled and find something like 20W-40 or 20W-50. No more, else would be something like manual gear oil - 80W~90W already, bad. If less means engine is light, but protective film is a bit 'risky' even with expensive EO.

For EO change rate, I wouldn't recommend too often or too long, should be just right. Example: once every 3k or 3months, whichever comes first. EO black nevermind, that's the nature of 4-stroke engine, it gets mixed with burnt fuel as it lubes the piston.

twist: from your description, sounds like some parts are loose somewhere - may be worn out, or need adjustment.

Forgot to mention, does the bike vibrate more with the noise?

Is your bike still under warranty? If not, can you find a mechanic that can tell u what's the problem? I wouldn't pay for an overhaul unless I know specifically what's the problem.

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Added on September 26, 2009, 11:37 pmevo1288 - welcome, please refer to first page, and give us your info.

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 26 2009, 11:37 PM

KOM135, it's another forum.

Charge, have you tried the Kpg Jawa entrance from mainroad under the hiway after a rain? Notice the zebra crossing? I slipped on the white stripes twice. At first I didn't realize I slipped because of the paint, as I normally don't look at the road when I ride, until yesterday.

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Added on October 1, 2009, 12:41 amIn short, wider better but not too wide, else worse.

Heavier tyre will reduce acceleration no matter what.
Wider tyre will reduce top speed becoz of grip = friction, same with soft compound. Dual compound good, hard in the middle soft on the sides - like Battlax and Supercosa Dragon.
For braking, heavier tyre takes longer to stop, but better grip avoids skidding.

Mass = inertia. To increase angular momentum of a bigger mass, you need bigger force (torque = acceleration).
Bigger angular momentum makes cornering more stable, as steering won't goyang.

Also, bigger tyres softer compound means more expensive and wear out faster; riding is more enjoyable and you go out more - in the end... burn out wallet faster.

Btw guys, there really is a 'sotong' tyre. I saw "TT Sotong" marked on a capalang brand the other day. No kidding.

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 1 2009, 12:41 AM

i've seen couple of dual-compound tyres after use, and esp obvious on the Supercosa. The mid portion with the hard compound is worn like normal tyre; but the sides, made of softer compound, looks like melted rubber and it's worn out as much as the mid portion, all the way to the edge of the crown.
Our normal tyre would flat out at the mid portion after use.

Evo1288: IMO your tyre on stock rim ok. Already wider than stock tires, right?

Slower bikes usually have better torque to climb hill...

59x54 compression ratio 6:1.

bizzy: read up on countersteering, i think this is what you need.

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Added on October 3, 2009, 12:46 amCharge, did you mod that EX5?

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 3 2009, 12:46 AM

Saran, remove caliper?

that's frickin dangerous. i did that once when my bike caliper was stolen. Now, I sneer at those bikes with modded caliper one.

Lagenda all same one right, in terms of engine performance.

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Added on October 8, 2009, 3:56 pmY. Lagenda all have same engine right? What are d differences between Z, ZR and normal?

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 8 2009, 03:56 PM

DDD, tell them exactly that.

Check blog below fella said not Castrol good.
http://triple0zone-135lc.blogspot.com/sear...el/Engine%20Oil

If you can, spend on higher grade oil - semi-synthetics. Charge has a point, Motul overpriced on this one. Yamalube would not go wrong.

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 14 2009, 12:46 AM

It's an imported brand, check blog i mentioned earlier. It's cheap.