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 ==>LYN Yamaha 135LC Club V3<==, ~We Are Riders, Not Rempit~

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alexei
post Dec 6 2009, 07:15 PM

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Not veteran, just abusing my bike nia. I take care of it normally lah, so go long distance ok one...
alexei
post Dec 7 2009, 03:24 PM

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@MAN - look for shops that can straighten fork. and check the steering clamps (TryX) as well. Just go into shops and ask them whether they can check fork bengkok or not. Experienced mechanic can know by just pushing the bike... I met one mechanic, pushed my old bike for a feet, braked it twice, and looked at me saying: Wah, fork bengkok liao... he fixed it for a reasonable price I don't remember how much.

If they dunno what you're talking about, walk away.
If they quote you new fork new parts whatever, walk away.

Good luck.
alexei
post Dec 8 2009, 12:20 PM

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Paiseh, TryX, I was expecting ppl with more experienced to know.
Do you have the explode view of an LC engine? that can tell you how many bearings there are...

KIEN, you know the candle, when it is burning you put something above the fire, the thing will turn black because of the carbon? In sains it's called jelaga one... that's how you use pelite (oil lamp) or candles to tint your tail lamp...
alexei
post Dec 8 2009, 03:46 PM

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Saran: What about SKF bearings?
alexei
post Dec 10 2009, 03:17 AM

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HuG: are you new to motorbikes? tongue.gif Hope you learn to enjoy riding. Let us know how you find it so far, ya?!
alexei
post Dec 11 2009, 04:39 AM

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QUOTE(TryX @ Dec 10 2009, 10:48 PM)
Guys im using T10 super brights LED for car.. Is blueish white but due to my bike unstable current my T10 LED like flash light..... sad.gif Any idea how to solve this problem? cos as i know our bike current is AC ( highly Unstable ) while car current is DC i need something to stabilize the current. Any idea if Zaptor will help me solve my problem? Or maybe i need to buy a inverter to convert my current to DC? Any experienced sifu here regarding electrical matter?

[attachmentid=1349567]
*
Disclaimer:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


TryX: Are the bulbs separate power from headlamp or joined?
If separate, easy. Few options: Install rectifier, rewire to DC source.
If joined, need re-wiring to isolate from headlamp and direct from DC source.
*DC source: Either tap from battery, or from one of the wires supplying DC to ignition switch. If LED still flickers, just manually solder a 25V-200uF capacitor across each the lamp sockets, should be 50cents each (Yes, use a 25V cap).

Maybe one of these days, I make mini boxes for you all to plug and play. biggrin.gif

Next topic: HID, Xenon, Halogen bulbs
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
In short, a 55W blue bulb would look cool, but won't illuminate as well. A good thing to invest in is HID conversion.

Next topic: LED bulbs
LED is nice and efficient, but are not always bright. The key to the brightness is power rating. Get those high-Lux LEDs, and high Wattage ones, at least 1W to 3W.
LED bulbs are not suitable for signal light, because the relay is not designed for low current... either your signal will not flicker, or flickers very fast. The solution is to either to install a parallel resistor or change to a suitable relay.


Added on December 11, 2009, 4:50 amNext next topic: Diesel EO?
Haha, I know this... but you guys can read up diesel engine evolution elsewhere la, not gonna explain here.

Nowadays, diesel engine use spark plug like petrol engine, not too high temperature vs the old type, so the EO is similar to petrol EO.

In short, no harm using either one. diesel EO cleans better and suited more for high temp heavy duty use. Petrol EO good for lower temp use, including daily engine start protection.

Google up "Diesel Engine Oil API" and you can read more about it.

This post has been edited by alexei: Dec 11 2009, 04:50 AM
alexei
post Dec 30 2009, 09:58 AM

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...even with choke also doesn't help?
alexei
post Jan 5 2010, 05:54 PM

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mrdamncool: I think better stay with ARC. If you do go shopping, and see any KHI, try the weight.

I was told by my mechanics NOT to buy KHI.

I'd say ARC. It has a Pilot & Discovery helmet, right? One of it is Fibre one, more expensive than the other. But, be careful, this one famous kena potong one...

Or, LTD also ok. Index is lighter and softer than LTD.

If you can afford expensive import brands, look for ECE certified ones.
alexei
post Jan 9 2010, 03:27 AM

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KIEN18: you know disc brake got piston inside, that pushes against the brake pads? Take WD40 and spray that area clean. Has it been rainy where you're at?
alexei
post Jan 15 2010, 02:45 PM

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mls_gamer, which iridium you use? Correct plug number ah?
alexei
post Jan 15 2010, 04:21 PM

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NGK leh?
alexei
post Jan 16 2010, 02:24 AM

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I use NGK Iridium, on my bikes. bought from Singapore guy RM38 a piece. I have 8. Only BPR9EIX for my TZM. I don't own LC.

mls_gamer: I've been using it a while and so far so good. Haven't been checking since I'm away from home right now. Last time my carb was bad, causing too much fuel and the plug will turn black. Changed the carb and now it's ok. How is your Denso bad? Can take a few pics and show? Maybe can analyze if need a hotter plug or not, especially if you mod your bike.
alexei
post Jan 17 2010, 05:47 AM

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TryX: You beginner ah? Sure not? biggrin.gif

mfa333: The spark bigger can ruin engine? That I'm not so sure.
alexei
post Jan 19 2010, 02:18 AM

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QUOTE(Spayz @ Jan 18 2010, 04:03 PM)
wow where can i get that price man? might need to change my plug soon
*
I bought from a guy on mudah.
Today, I found this: http://www.mudah.my/NGK-Iridium-IX-Spark-p...G63-4767538.htm

RM150 for four piece, each piece ~RM38. Maybe you all can share share...
alexei
post Jan 28 2010, 10:34 AM

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redframelowyat: this is called 'gear-stuck', not 'clutch slip'.

Clutch-slip is when you pull throttle when riding normally and then RPM just go up on its own without speed increasing.
alexei
post Jan 28 2010, 01:47 PM

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redflame: yeah, i know. It will either stuck and won't shift off, or stuck halfway shifting and the next gear won't jump in.

Some reasons: clutch cannot completely disengage, so gearbox is still halfway 'stuck' to the engine, and gear becomes hard to change. How old is ur bike? Sometimes, autoclutch behaves like this with new clutch plates.

At times, EO affects gearshift because bike gearbox is wet sump. Not necessary thinner or thicker EO is best. Sometimes, engine cold shift ok, once hot becomes different. At other times, it's the other way round. This is normal, even Harley's have problem like this. wink.gif

The forum here so far talk about EO, mainly talking about experience with gear shift. There's a saying: New engine, thin oil, old engine, thick oil. Which holds true because old engine loose, tends to vibrate more, so thick EO will dampen vibration better. New engine tighter, need thin EO to lubricate engine faster but less damping.

Cheap EO sure not good, expensive EO not always suitable. you need to try for yourself to tell what's best... listen to engine, feel the gear shift at cold and hot, check dipstick once a while, check plug etc.


Added on January 28, 2010, 1:53 pmMotul and Castrol are big oil company.

Castrol make mineral based oil can compete with some synthetic ones. Motul has ester based fully synthetics. Both makes good products.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 28 2010, 01:53 PM
alexei
post Jan 31 2010, 02:01 PM

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anarchy: syiok... 63mm block with TZM carb. Top speed how much? 160-180kmh? Sorry to hear that.

Cheang: Get a helmet with visor lah... tongue.gif
alexei
post Feb 2 2010, 03:08 AM

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Hi anarchy,
I think the timing chain broke. I agak that's where it explode. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Ask your friend, did he change to stiffer cam spring and hi-cam while still using the stock timing chain?

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