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 ==>LYN Yamaha 135LC Club V3<==, ~We Are Riders, Not Rempit~

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alexei
post Aug 18 2009, 08:09 PM

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For tyre thread measure, I use this... minimum thread depth is 1.5mm...
user posted image
alexei
post Aug 18 2009, 10:20 PM

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What kind of mods they do there?
alexei
post Aug 20 2009, 12:42 AM

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Ah Charge ah,
Can I trail you at Tj Bungah one of these days?
alexei
post Aug 21 2009, 09:10 PM

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TryX ah... your bike no mod, right?
alexei
post Aug 25 2009, 07:45 PM

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ok, cheaper RM5 than what I got. Mana lu beli?


Added on August 25, 2009, 7:45 pmxellos, thought you selling your rims? how much ah? biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 25 2009, 07:45 PM
alexei
post Aug 30 2009, 01:00 AM

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Apa itu power booster? Where does it connect to ah?
alexei
post Sep 3 2009, 07:32 PM

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1hr to adjust rear brake? seriously? Did foreman have to saw things and modify, or the brake fluid hard to do?

For those using disk brake, just make sure the disk doesn't turn black. It may indicate oil stain, or brake piston jam and overheat disk... either way, not good.

Brake fluid use DOT5 if do hard brake until so hot la... if not, later you will feel 'spongy'.
alexei
post Sep 3 2009, 08:00 PM

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too much la... what brake fluid he give you?
alexei
post Sep 3 2009, 10:00 PM

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Just get DOT5 lah...
Brembo got fake one, better look for NISSIN.


Saran, (don't mind me calling you this name)
Good not good depend brake pad... does RB caliper come with brake pad? Maybe ori RB brake pad got ripped off by the shop eh? Just open the nut of the caliper, and check the pads see what brand... jgn2 cap Ayam. :LOL
alexei
post Sep 3 2009, 11:55 PM

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I'm not encouraging, or discouraging RB-RDB system.

My honest opinion lah...
1. Compared to drum brake, it is trickier to setup.
2. If setup properly, it works well, but faster overheat than drum brakes and will loose performance. With that, I do not encourage to hard brake on RDB. Mainly use RDB for slowing down. In fact, there are riders who don't use rear brakes at all, only gearing to slow down. In comparison, hard braking on the front doesn't generate this kind of problem.
4. Wet performance is bad. You should have a drum brake for backup.
5. Disc brake system tends to lock if not cared properly, and skidding in the rain is no fun...

Like TryX said, can also try used FXR or KIPS system or even front calipers with minor modification lah. Just make sure the bleeder is positioned correctly, not pointing down.

For RB-RDB, if want, can try DIY to setup the brake fluid and check brake pads...


Added on September 3, 2009, 11:59 pm
QUOTE(budakmentah @ Sep 3 2009, 10:06 PM)
nissin how much the cost?
nvr see that brand at my place..
juz seen rb n brembo only..
*
Brembo ciplak I know RM80~100 can get. Red color, looks genuine. Some even have 4-pot caliper. Comes with brake pads.
Nissin - can try look around for Honda Wave front caliper... I dunno the price.
If got budget, suggest upgrade front disc better.

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 3 2009, 11:59 PM
alexei
post Sep 4 2009, 09:00 AM

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QUOTE(TryX @ Sep 4 2009, 12:14 AM)
Cool idea can remix the brake caliper and the master pump from different type of bike Btw i think TZM brake caliper and master pump should be good enough for me. Where u park ur TZM arr Alexei? I think i wanna pay ur bike a visit this midnight. tongue.gif
*
using TZM system is as hot as 125Z... got people selling mah, dont aim my bike leh... cry.gif


Added on September 4, 2009, 9:03 am
QUOTE(Na0ki @ Sep 4 2009, 12:15 AM)
alexei your point is better dun use RDB eh?
*
have to admit, RDB got style... it's different than drumbrake la.
don't use it too hard, higher maintenance...


Added on September 4, 2009, 9:04 am
QUOTE(Na0ki @ Sep 4 2009, 12:25 AM)
im thnking to get RDB , but still not sure is it good or not...

btw also afraid if install RDB will make my bike more heavy eh?

cause after my rims been stolen i take RB 8spoke rim then my speed can go 155 like that not

like stock rims can reach 170... hmm.. now thinking back wat should i do.. aih.. sad.gif
*
not much of weight difference i think. But RB8 is wide, use with fat tyre will definitely lower the top speed a bit.

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 4 2009, 09:04 AM
alexei
post Sep 4 2009, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(saranjeevi @ Sep 4 2009, 12:36 AM)
its k.. u carry on calling tat name..  icon_rolleyes.gif  but i thnk firstly the brake pump makes a lot difference in RDB.. then caliper not so much la.. tats y j wana confirm b4 making my move.. biggrin.gif


Added on September 4, 2009, 12:40 am

this remix kinda thig is good but firstly u need to get the things tat are 'legal' n at the right price... then next is hassle.. cz the bracket n the rim/hub must look around again... lots of hassle man.. but of course it'l b a good RDB system...  laugh.gif
*
Mix here and there defies the purpose of spending money to make the bike looks nice and shiny.
I think the critical part is the rubber seal, and the metal quality for reliability.
Brake pump and caliper need to match or not, I'm not sure. smile.gif

Agree with hassle, but if no hassle, then all mods would look the same... Samba wouldn't wanna sell his LC for project bike liao.


Added on September 4, 2009, 9:09 am
QUOTE(charge-n-go @ Sep 4 2009, 09:05 AM)
haha, there is no 'best' settings. most of the settings have its own problem, even stock. Nothing is perfect.

So, we need to understand the problem, and use our skill to compensate it.

once we start to modify, prepare for unexpected bad results.
and shit... my front brake pad is fading, now braking is worse than stock, lol. Its good for rainy days thou, hahaha
*
Ha, here is a hard-braking seefoo... you summed it up alright.

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 4 2009, 09:09 AM
alexei
post Sep 5 2009, 01:31 AM

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yeah, just tekan kuat kuat... understeer is when you turn, but bike won't go. Oversteer looks like drifting. It's a little bit about weight distribution and throttle control when turning. Imagine this, doing a turning and hard braking on the front, that's extreme understeer and front wheel will slide... when riding normally, it's not like you do such a stupid thing la.
alexei
post Sep 5 2009, 10:41 AM

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medichloreans: haha, you have a point, hard braking to a practical point.
I would suggest not to mix brake fluid; in fact, not to mix oil like 4T & 2T as well; because that's also mixing the chemical inside. It not only causes unknown effect, but may even lowers the boiling point. DOT5 + DOT4 is not DOT4.5, know what I mean? May turn out to be worse. smile.gif

Bizzy, good one. My lessons told me to finish braking right before entering corner. Look for charge's post about him and his new tyre...
I used to slide a bit on hard corners, trick is pull throttle to regain traction.
alexei
post Sep 7 2009, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE(POD @ Sep 7 2009, 12:05 AM)
Just asking arr, Can we install Yzf-R6 muffler on LC135 with larger carb?? i herd can la
*
May consider YZF-R15.
alexei
post Sep 8 2009, 12:23 AM

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additional question about the RPM meter, is the connection all electrical?
what are the terminals?


Added on September 8, 2009, 12:49 amsimple and effective mods - must read for you all modders here...
all about bike mods

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 8 2009, 12:50 AM
alexei
post Sep 10 2009, 12:08 AM

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TryX: Where? BeeHock?
alexei
post Sep 10 2009, 12:43 AM

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QUOTE(charge-n-go @ Sep 8 2009, 08:33 AM)
It's really hard to get good parts for kapchai. Those good ones are just too expensive.

Things like super light rims (i think the lightest would be spoke rim, but kenot use tubeless tyre), fully adjustable absorber (which can set bound / rebound independently) are hard to find here.

A bike with too much power is hard to handle without a good suspension setup.
*
Maybe we can talk about fork fluid mixtures here? I use Motul 5W.
What about USD fork mods, anyone? Gas shocks, adjustables...?

And, Marchesini rims... drool.gif


Added on September 10, 2009, 12:45 am
QUOTE(suhail92 @ Sep 9 2009, 11:12 PM)
nobody answer my question..
sad..
*
RPM meter, to see right RPM when shift gear. run in RPM, redline, work with CDI with shift light extension, decoration, anything but not performance gain...

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 10 2009, 12:45 AM
alexei
post Sep 10 2009, 01:45 PM

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Chain size is the smaller the lighter. But cannot subject to high stress when pickup - notice chain elongate by pulling the chain on the rear sprocket, at the mid-point where chain meets and leaves the sprocket.

If you can lift parts of the chain away from sprocket, you're chain has elongated. Further use will damage the sprockets because mechanical force is only focused on the first 2~3 sprocket spikes. Change the chain now, or change the whole set later.

For long distance, cruising with smaller/lighter chain may reduce FC, not by much. To avoid chain wear and tear, use good sprockets that is perfectly round (spin wheel and chain should not travel up/down), align front/rear sprocket in straight line, and do not use immediately after chain lube - let it dry for at least 20mins. Service the chain every 300-500km.

For me, I'm asking for 428 O-ring for my bikes. Good chain for lazy man coz it keeps chain lube sealed up. But, expensive and heavier...

Good brands I know are DID, RK (Not RK-M, M=Malaysia???), SSS; not that I know a lot lah...

Hope this helps.

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 10 2009, 01:45 PM
alexei
post Sep 10 2009, 05:26 PM

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Stock chain is normal chain, no rings.

O-ring example:
user posted image

Some manufacturers make different types of seals, and based on the shape of the seals, they're called X-ring, W-ring, XW-ring etc...

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