My house got 6 persons, 1 couple in master aircond room, 2 gays in 1 middle room, 1 handsome in middle room, i'm taking the small room.
4 desktop - usage : average 18 hours everyday
2 laptop - usage : average 18 hours everyday
1 1hp aircond - usage : at least 14-16 hours every day
1 washing machine
1 kettle - usage : 4-5 times in 1 months


The latest bills that i got fr tis week is Rm434.70, unit that consumed is 1200Kwh...
do u all think the bills is normal? Advice needed...thks

How about the lightings? Do you switch on anything for 24hours, eg auto water boiler, porch light etc.

Calculator

I think its normal lah...
Aircond : 8 hours per day
TV: from 7am to 2am
PC : from 10am to 10p,

The average bill that i receive is RM 200 +/- 50

This post has been edited by Maapu: Jul 26 2009, 06:41 PM

erm, fluorescent light in staircase and kitchen on 12 hours like tat....1 hair dryer used twice per day i guess... no other electric items been used beside these..

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Added on July 26, 2009, 6:47 pmThis post has been edited by pedas126: Jul 26 2009, 06:57 PM

I think its better for you to install a timer for those light or change it to the energy efficient light. Last time I'm used to on my porch light for 24 hours + auto water boiler + desktop pc ard 6 hours. Monthly bill was around RM150. Now I change those bulb to those enery efficient + throw away the auto water boiler, immediatly my bill went to around RM110.

Let say desktop 300W x 4 = 1200 x 18 = 21.6KWH
Laptop 200W x 2 = 400 x 18 = 7.2KWH
1 hp = 750 W x 16 = 12KWH

21.6 + 7.2 + 12 = 40.8 x 30 days = 1224 KWH.

Above just rough calculation as desktop power consumption is always fluctuate due to usage, it is not possible that your computer always run at peak load.

So answer, yes, could reach 1200KWH

Flourescent light is considered energy efficient already unless one is using old type bulb one.

Water boiler is high energy usage one, at least >1KW one.

I was using the flourescent light previously for the porch and the rating was 80W. Now I'm using those Philips bulb which cost around RM18/unit. I'm not very sure what it's called. THe rating is only 18W but the brightness is the same as the flourescent.

Maybe the 2 gays in the midlle room is releasing plenty of heat....... ;p


just kiddin, actually one of my studio's have unusually high electricity charges, which is weird as it consumes double the electricity compared to my other studio. Was wondering what is the cause......?

This post has been edited by Pai: Jul 26 2009, 07:13 PM

you should check the meter, off all the electrical appliances, observe the meter. RM 400 is too much!!

I own a laundry shop and my bill is just around RM350 per month as a shop rate is higher which is 0.397 sen per unit compared to 0.286 sen per unit for houses. I am running 2 sets of iron, a washer, a dry cleaning machine, a dryer, an air cond, a computer, 3 ceiling fans, 2 billboards with lamp tubes, 7 tube lamps that run from 9am-9pm everyday except on sunday. My secret is installing 10mm cables to each of the machine (washer, dry cleaning machine and iron sets). These thick cables prevent unneccessary waste of electricity through resistance. That's basic physics. My laundry load is more or less the same as a laundry shop that pays RM900 for electricity monthly. I save more electricity therefore I can maintain competitive price for my services.

This post has been edited by am_eniey: Jul 27 2009, 10:23 AM

Can't get wat u mean.
From where to each of the machine?
From DB or wat

Is it considered a Service Apartment? If so, commercial rates applies

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Added on July 28, 2009, 4:32 pmYes, if you redo the DB with state of the art capacitor, regulators/invertors & changed the wiring to thicker and better grade ones ie. AWG 0 or something, then sure can see dractic differences

This post has been edited by tgeoklin: Jul 28 2009, 04:32 PM

@tgeoklin

yes, that's what i was trying to say !

I still don't understand. How a thick cable can prevent wastage of electricity through resistance? As for my knowledge, too thick cable will cause voltage drop due to resistance and high cost(cable). If your machine don't running in high amp.
For DB with state of the art capacitor, regulators/invertors, that can reduce the electricity consumption, that I understand.

TS I think you left out the water heater. Thats the most electric consuming appliances in the house.

@GuyM
Your post was gone because anything illegal is not to be discussed here in LYN to prevent any unwanted dispute between the authority and LYN.

there is one product advertised to save electricity...anybody tried that? My electricity bill isn't that much but I am interested in ways to save if it works.

Think of it this way, thicker cables as in wider mm and better grade materials, are like a wider road for electrons, which in most cases will reduce resistence and thus loss of energy in the form of heat. If you but feel your wires, when attach to a high drain device such as a vacuum, the cable tends to be warm after somewhile. Change that to a better power cable and feel the difference

Of course it will cost more but its definitely worth it. But under normal circumstances the contractors/developers will just provide what's adequate

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Added on July 30, 2009, 7:39 amIt normally works well with older and less efficient induction motor type of equipment such as an old fridge, air conditioners etc. Has virtually zero effect on iron, icandescant lights and such

This post has been edited by tgeoklin: Jul 30 2009, 07:40 AM

Yes, the cable will get hot if too small for the high power tools. But what about if the cable size is more than enough to carry the amp? I think most of our house can carry more than 15amp. Will change to a bigger wire size will I save more?
Example: The vacuum is using 10amp while the 5mm size cable max can carry is 15amp. So the cable size is more than enough to carry the load. If I change to 100mm size cable which can carry max 30amp, will I save more? Will the vacuum using less amp/power if I change to thicker cable?
Change to a better lower resistance copper wire will reduce heat and can carry higher amp. But at here, where I can find this kind of cable? Can I use speaker cable or audio cable since it is the best conductive cable.

You can try it with the hi-fi power cables but not speaker cables as those are not rated for such high voltage. But unless the entire system from the DB is of such, it will not make much of a difference

overall i agree ur method but correction abit if u dun mind, 200w is way to high for laptop. c2d only uses 35W max (<29W for penryn processor). solo core centrino about 25W max load. almost 15%of ur pc calc lol desktop also no need 300W so high myb less than 200W n take 50% for load.

pc 200W x 4 = 800 x 50% x 18 = 7.2 kwh
nb 35w x 2 = 70 x 18 = 1.26 kwh

lastime i rmb i on 24/7 my centrino nb dl calc max RM9 /mth only that is 100% load somemore lol

look like pcs very low consumption only lol

Bro, to make it simple, it's like this. Imagine 100 cars travelling from KL-Penang using the old narrow road. It might take 8 hours or more, waste of fuel due to low gear usage, overtaking at low speed, driving slow at high rpm when preparing for overtaking and more. Well these might increase the engine heat due to the unstable speed and many obstacles but if you take the PLUS highway which is much wider and less resistance, you will reach the destination perhaps within 5 hours with less obstacles, constant speed.

The story goes more or less the same with the cable. The thinner the cable, the less space for the electricity to flow. Due to the electric current travels and the speed of light perhaps, it needs proper wide cable to flow smoothly. The heat that you feel on the cable is the waste of energy due to thin cable. Electric energy converted to heat energy but you don't utilize the heat energy, so it's a waste. Due to the wastage of electric to heat energy that you don't utilize, the machine needs more energy from the DB to fullfil what it needs. If the cable is thick enough where there's less energy conversion happens before it reaches the machine, logically it saves your pocket.

ahahhaha.... u guys really creative. but the answer is NO. using bigger cable will not cause the power consumption lower... and the losses in the cable are not significant as well if one take out the cable manufacturer catalogue and study the cable resistivity... However, appropriate cable size selection shall required some calculation to determine it...

Hi, my electricity bill is high also. I feel the culprit is the air cond. Can you help me to work out the electricity cost for air cond. for 3 units at 1HP each for say 8 hours.

Thank you.

1 HP power air-con generally consumes about 20~30 cents per hour

I prove it with my own electricity bill.

Thanks for your explanation am_eniey. I understand the wire current flow capacity between small wire and thick wire. What I still don't understand is will a thicker wire have benefit if ordinary wire is enough for the appliance power? If in imaginery way, the highway already have extra 20-30% capicity to accomodate the car, build another few lane will make the car reach the destination faster?

What I can imagine is, the appliance using 10A current and the wire suppose to carry 10A current. Because of the wire small and high resistance, some current lost to the heat a long the wire and actually is supplying maybe 1A or 2A extra in order the appliance can get 10A. Is this what you mean?

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Added on July 31, 2009, 12:11 pmYour bill high problem is, maybe your aircon compressor running non stop due to under capacity. Buy the aircon HP according to your room size not your wallet size.

This post has been edited by ozak: Jul 31 2009, 12:11 PM

Thicker cable is always better. It's just the cost of the cable that matters to most people. It is indeed extra expensive. I spent around RM1K just for the cables only but long term wise, it benefits me.

There are multibillion of electrodes flowing in a cable. If a machines requires 10A, it still gets 10A from any type of cable. The difference is how the 10A is coming through from the DB to the machine, through a thin or a thick cable. Just like billions of cars travelling from KL-Penang at one time for example. Which type of road has lesser resistance, PLUS highway or the old road. KL is the DB, Penang is the machine. The road is the cable. It's not quite a comparison btw but at least it gives a better picture.

This post has been edited by am_eniey: Jul 31 2009, 12:18 PM

[COLOR=blue][COLOR=blue][quote=cherroy,Jul 31 2009, 10:04 AM]1 HP power air-con generally consumes about 20~30 cents per hour

[/quote]

Any formula to work out ? Please share

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Added on July 31, 2009, 7:00 pm

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Added on July 31, 2009, 12:11 pm
Your bill high problem is, maybe your aircon compressor running non stop due to under capacity. Buy the aircon HP according to your room size not your wallet size.

[/quote]

Is the thermostat setting affects the compressor running time? My room size is 22x14. What is optimum air cond HP?

Kindly teach the basic calculation.

This post has been edited by Calmman: Jul 31 2009, 07:00 PM

Compressor will be shut down when reaching preset temp by you. So if room is too big, it won't able to reach the temp preset ley day 24, so compressor will run non-stop.

I forget the exact figure, but roughly 1 HP is recommended around the size of 12x12, and 1.5HP is suit at around 18x18

I would say 1.5 HP is the optimum for your case.

Correct me if I am wrong.

over providing is good off course, but is not optimize... u can go around and ask those competent engineer and i doubt that you idea really save the power consumption. As i said before, the larger cable, the resistivity different are not really significant... Best is to select your house hold equipment properly... for eg selecting an inverter a/c or fridge... as inverter motor will not cause too many start stop which draw huge current... inverter motor varies the speed to maintain or to cool down the temperature...

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Added on August 1, 2009, 12:16 amyes, u r right! undersizing a/c will cause that... basically ur room required 1.5hp.... if ur room is facing east/west then u might need to consider 2hp... basic formula to sizing a/c is to determine the BTU required.... which is proportion to area.




This post has been edited by gunh: Aug 1 2009, 12:16 AM

Thank you Cherroy & Gunh for sharing. BTW, what is BTU? I often heard of this BTU when talking abt air cond. Dont mind enlighten on this.

Lately I am surveying on ways to get rid of the stifling heat inside the house when come home and reducing electricity cost. Another THREAD in this form on ROOF INSULATOR & SECURITY also relate to what we discuss here.

I have visited the site www.tclmalaysia.com abt cellulose insulation from USA and is considering to install it.

Seems like working well

Any advice???

BTU = British Thermal Unit..

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Added on August 1, 2009, 1:29 pmTo futher support my previous statement... i've manage to get some technical information from Draka Cable.

For 1.5mm sq cable, the conductor resistance is 12.1 ohm for every 1 kilometer / 1000mtr
For 2.5mm sq cable, the conductor resistance is 7.41 ohm for every 1 kilometer / 1000mtr
For 4.0mm sq cable, the conductor resistance is 4.6 ohm for every 1 kilometer / 1000mtr

so by upgrading say 2.5mm sq cable to 4.0mm sq cable, the resistance different is 2.81 ohm for every 1000 mtr or 0.00281 ohm per meter.
and for an average power point in house, the distance are or about 15meter, which work out to be 0.04215 ohm.

u think such small significant can play role in power consumption? And, when u upgrading the cable, u will need to use a bigger cable conduit or casing... which is also cost. However, no doubt each cable be it 1.5, 2.5 or 4.0mm have their own current capacity limitation... and as long the electrical engineer done his calculation + some safety factor, then it should be alright.

Just like ur house Syabas incoming pipe.... dont tell me if u pipe ur whole house to bigger pipe to all ur kitchen or toilet, then ur water bill is less? does not make sense right?

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Added on August 1, 2009, 1:42 pmTo futher support my previous statement... i've manage to get some technical information from Draka Cable.

For 1.5mm sq cable, the conductor resistance is 12.1 ohm for every 1 kilometer / 1000mtr
For 2.5mm sq cable, the conductor resistance is 7.41 ohm for every 1 kilometer / 1000mtr
For 4.0mm sq cable, the conductor resistance is 4.6 ohm for every 1 kilometer / 1000mtr

so by upgrading say 2.5mm sq cable to 4.0mm sq cable, the resistance different is 2.81 ohm for every 1000 mtr or 0.00281 ohm per meter.
and for an average power point in house, the distance are or about 15meter, which work out to be 0.04215 ohm.

u think such small significant can play role in power consumption? And, when u upgrading the cable, u will need to use a bigger cable conduit or casing... which is also cost. However, no doubt each cable be it 1.5, 2.5 or 4.0mm have their own current capacity limitation... and as long the electrical engineer done his calculation + some safety factor, then it should be alright.

Just like ur house Syabas incoming pipe.... dont tell me if u pipe ur whole house to bigger pipe to all ur kitchen or toilet, then ur water bill is less? does not make sense right?





This post has been edited by gunh: Aug 1 2009, 01:42 PM

I would think if one is using near the capacity of the cable, by using larger cable, will cause less heat and saving on some resistance as well as bigger size cable having less resistance in the first place. But whether the saving is significant or not, still a lot can be studied and explored.

As for ordinary household the saving a few cents might not able to recoup back what had invested in bigger cable. Just like inverter air-con will save electricity. But if you are using just a few hour per day, the amount of power bill saved might not able to recoup back the extra money fork out to purchase a inverter air-con compared to ordinary one.

Inverter air-cond save electricity but it depends how it is being used. If not the extra money fork out is not worthwhile. If your compressor need to run 100% all the time (under sized), inverter air-con won't able to save you a single cent.

The saving power bill changing from smaller to bigger size cable as stated by forumer could be the previously old smaller cable had crack or deteoriated due to whatever reason in the first place, so by changing the new and bigger cable lead to power bill save.
Just my wild guess.

Electricity flow is not the same as water flow. You can elaborate this as I can see that you know better.

cherroy, perhaps the cable u mentioned are already under size at the 1st place... if the cable being selected is appropriate... it will not cause cable crack... unless the wire has been there for more than 20yrs... Engineer always perform their duty to make sure the right choice being made based on technical... from civil, electrical & mechanical engineer... Cable selection shall also consider the derating factor which is determine by type of cable and method of installation... Yes, if selection or choice is wrong, then the cable will generate heat, due to voltage drop issue as well...

I alway set at 25deg and put everything in auto. My experience is my first aircon 1HP average bill around RM100+. Than change to inverter type 1.5hp. Now bill average RM65+.

A little sidetrack - has anyone had issues with their inverters (spoilt, destroyed in power surge, etc). The inverter circuits has electronics and wonder how they stand the test of time against AC circuits.

I know one of my inverter got spoilt before (not an aircond inverter) but a florescent light inverter. It was an el-cheapo, but any electronics will be sensitive to AC currents, depending on the circuit protection. So I was kind of cautious in choosing inverter AC fearing it could result in the same problem as my florescent inverter.

Those who used airconds with inverter > 4 years running (finish pay back period), care to comment?

Err.... flourescent light got use inverter? Sorry noob in this area.

What the use of inverter in flourescent then?

As far as I knew, inverter is some device that control the current flow once the motor doesn't need so much power. So how this applied on flourescent?

i think what kenny tring to say is not inverter fluorescent light... should be electronic ballast type... this light do not have starter... Indeed electronic ballast type of fluorescent are not so long lasting from my personnal experience...

Actually is not call inverter. It is an electronic ballast. Correct the power factor and on instantly without flicking. I ve few and easlly burn out. Once ON, spark come out and little explosion with some smell. Now no more use. I believe the aircon inverter have a wider voltage range. With longtime R&D, it improve alot.

I used it before, those electronic ballast can be not realiable as well, blown 4 of out 6 in one year time(in my case). I noticed all those electronic ballast are mainly from Chapalang brand, seldom got well known producers one. Just my experience.

I wonder why less well known producers want to venture in this area.

Benefit of electronic ballast, your light won't blink blink when switch on, just light up. Other than that, don't see other major benefit of it, especially the reliability side which is the major disadvantage.

You guys are right - I made a mistake - It's an electronic ballast rather than inverter (don't recall why I call it an inverter), but I somewhat recalled a sub-component of a E-ballast has an inverter to change DC -> AC. Anyway, it cycles the frequency ~ 20,000Hz, so no flicker, good for your eyes in the longer term. 60Hz lights are not the best (biologically) for reading. And it blow up after a few months - and lost confidence in high current electronics.

So the uncertainty is the lifetime of an Air-Cond inverter. Sounds like everyone's inverter is still working well I once asked an A-C engineer he says these inverters are quite reliable but hard to gauge life time since the technology (and market acceptance) hasn't been more than 4 years so can't really find people who can say "I've used it more than 4 years without problems". Most users < 4 years.

The aircon inverter not comeout just 4yrs. This technology is quite long time. It just arrive here few yrs ago but not others country. They already have inverter type long ago. We are not advance country. It depend on manufacturing when is the right time to market here.

Let me know your contact. I will call the company and introduce you to them. Commission 50:50

Smart partnership !!

This is an interesting topic. Definitely heat loss in power cable is the culprit but how much heat loss is significant. For e.g. I have a vacuum cleaner that's 1.6kW and when I power it up for ~1 hour, the power cables tend to get hot enough you don't want to touch it. So now I'm wondering if they are under rated.

And I think the cable layout can have a significant effect. Consider if you power a series of machines from the same cable instead of using individual cables. If each machine is 1kW and draws ~4A (1kW/230V), 5 machines will draw 20A already.

Anyway am no power nor cable experts here. I'd be very curious to know what's am_eniey's washing machine's power rating.


I thought inverter converts dc to ac? And the reason is perhaps the difference between using dc and ac motor...
Yeah just checked wiki, it's due to inability to control a dc motor easily so they just switch it on or off while ac motor can be controlled by changing the ac frequency.

This post has been edited by tgrrr: Aug 3 2009, 04:41 PM

i have decided to proceed. Strong recommendation by friends.

any plans to do up the home insulation??we should be getting a better price if negotiate together.

Eh.. You mean the power cable from the vacuum? How can the manufacturing don't know the cable problem.

The aircon compressor cannot use dc motor. Only can use ac motor. The inverter is use to change the frequency from max 60hz.

but no matter when it was introduced, it saves my pocket every month.

Anyone tried those "Plug-in Electricity Saver" thingy that says can save like X % of electricity?
Does it really work?




www.shchoy.com

This post has been edited by shchoy: Aug 5 2009, 06:16 PM

I am here to write the good comment as a satisfied customer.

My house just installed the Cellulose insulation yesterday. They came all the way from Old Klang Road to Kuala Pilah, Negeri Sembilan. 2 hours journey, 3 persons with a small lorry. hehe.

Felt the immediate cooling right after installation. Fantastic!!! The job takes 3 - 4 hours to complete. RM4.5k well spent. Normal double storey house should be less than this amount. Probably RM3k++ only? Their price is RM3.50/sq ft. So it depends on how large your house's ceiling area.

It's cheap compared buying a 1.5 - 2HP air-cond and long term electricity bill counts.

Call TCLMalaysia (Mr. Lee or Mr. Tee, both are directors) and tell them you were introduced by Marcus, from Negeri Sembilan, instant discount given.

Website is here. http://tclmalaysia.com/system_pcinsul.php

The bad thing is, they don't go too far out from KL.... But i guess Ipoh, Melaka, Pahang still OK.




This post has been edited by cloud9_lee: Aug 5 2009, 06:33 PM

There was also another thread on this: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1092629

How's the feeling at night?

Technically insulations prevents heat coming in, also prevents cold air from coming in.

no logic behind the product... correcting the power factor does not really save energy... as our tariff is based on KiloWatt hour...

and energy cannot be destroy or create... no matter how good u corrected the power factor... P (power) = V (volt) x I (current) x power factor

Cold air from air cond. Dusty air from outside

Malaysia no winter; so no cold air.

This is being discussed before. http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=973128

Is your house facing west?

My side wall is facing west, i worry if install the material on ceiling make no much difference since the heat from the side wall is not taken care of

So what caused his power bill to drop?

Which one is better, central unit water tank boiler or individual water heater? I mean in terms of saving electricity & money. I have 3 bathrooms that are just next to eah other, and I am wondering which type to install to save energy.

You got a good deal!!

hi, how does this calculation work? multiply by 4 then multiply by 18? Aircond multiply by 16?

Those are hours of usage and number of desktop/laptop stated by the origin question.

Electricity bill is calculated in power aka KWH, now is about 30+ cents per KWH

So if your equipment consume 100W and you use it for 10 hours then, 10 x 100 = 1KWH.

Don't mind share on calculation of air cond. consumption(average for 1HP, 1 1/2HP & 2HP)

Averagely how many watt air cond. consumes?

Both has pros and cons.

Central:
1) Takes longer time to boil / keep warm -> more electricity
2) Provide continous steady stream of warm water. You don't bath in hot water Hot water is to process dressed-chicken.

Individual:
1) Almost immediate warm water. Sometimes too hot and boil off the sausage/fish-ball/double-pau
2) Irregular temperature, fluctuate. Which will make you turn the heater up. Then... refer #1

Best is, install another separate tank on top of the roof, either black PVC or metal is fine, as both absorb heat. Let our natural sun become the heater.


Unless most of your team take bath at similiar time, otherwise don't go for central.

Another way to look at it, you don't use a 5L kettle to boil water, then make a cup of 50ml espresso. It would be better to use the small 1.2L jug to boil and faster too. Save electricity.

Unless you plan to boil 5L water, then make 2-3L of hot coffee/tea for a gang.

Good analysis. I was thinking of putting the water tank to expose to the hot sun, but am worried whether it will be warm enough for the evening. Also, then when you want cold shower, you can't have it. Again, I don't think people take cold shower these days.

In scientific term 1HP = 0.75KW.

But for actual case and actual consumption, it could varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, depended how the motor setup etc issue.

There is no straight accurate answer can be given.

Just a rough guide only.

The tank on roof will provide warm water on sunny days and if bath around 5pm-8pm. If water not warm enough (e.g. you always come home 11pm) or on rainy days, I suggest use individual heater if really want to. There are other consideration as well, low water pressure, need pump? Extra tank on roof use same piping or new piping ? cost ?

If want cold shower, one way is to buy a small crushed-marble/white-plaster tank. Old fashion type. Not plastic/white-PVC. Use the small-bucket (cedok) method. But must fill it up with water in advance 3-5 hours. Marble (like marble flooring) will cool down the water. To double/triple up the functionality, you can also use it to flush toilet or rear some fish/tortoise in it

It may sound impracticle or ugly though... depending on preference for greener world or look nice/design. E.g. wear coat/jacket + tie walk outside the sun at klcc. Sure look proper and smart, but sweat like an idiot.

Side track: I don't like those designer/architect who build full length glass wall/window for homes. It is just plain stupid to have the sun shining, and you pull the curtain to cover it. The heat build-up will require more air-cond. Yeah yeah, it look nice, but impracticle. If we're living in Scandinavia, then full length glass is alright. But no, not here in M'sia with 4 seasons of summer.

So the cost of electricity supply for 1HP for 8 hours is

0.75KW x 8Hr x RM0.30/KWH = RM1.80 (If TNB supply rate is RM0.30 KWH)

In a month the cost of electricity is RM54.00 for 1 1HP air cond.

If 3 nos of 1HP air cond the total cost of electricity is RM162.00


Therefore if i insulate my house and use only 2 hrs per night the savings would be

0.75KW x 6Hr x RM0.30/KWH x 30 Days x 3 nos of air cond. = RM121.50

Is my calculation correct ?

OK will go to my design board and try to be green & nice.

I do agree w/ you. We malaysian like to have many windows, but we almost never use the windows feature, as they are always covered up by curtains!! So, what is the point? I would rather design to have glass panel at the 7' height, where you get privacy & light!

Not that high lah. TNB charge you 200kwh for 0.218. And the rest is 0.334. All state in your bill. 1hp don't use that much power. My 1.5hp only cost me rm20-30/mth. Saving depend on your aircon type and aircon setting and the room sealing.

I don't think insulate can reduce that much. You still on your aircon 8hr but the comp will run lesser since the cold air can keep longer.

Only rm20-30/mth?? How long do you on everynight. Something wrong with your TNB meter?

Why my bill so high ? Close to RM400.00 per month.

I thought air cond. is the main culprit. How to cut down?

I hope my TNB meter got problem. Everynight 7-9hr.

Buy aircon according to your room size not your wallet size.

How do work out the capacity of air cond. required? I often heard of BTU and did ask about it here. I was informed it refers to British Thermal Unit only.

May be you can help. Can teach aah!

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Added on August 13, 2009, 4:36 pm@Ozak said his 1.5HP don't consume that much.

Are your calculation correct?

Say 25cent per hr . A night 8 hrs equals RM2 per night.

Now who is right now - cherroy or ozak ?

This post has been edited by Calmman: Aug 13 2009, 04:36 PM

Lazy to repeat. Just read back few pages and the aircon thread here. You will get the answer.

The calculation is correct. Just the usage and aircon is vary with each house. As cherroy said, there is no straight accurate answer can be given.

My setting is 1.5hp inverter, well ventilate outdoor unit, temp at 25deg and everything in auto to optimise the saving. Seal all the hole that might probally cold air escape.

I read thro' the last few pages, nothing about room size vs air cond. capacity.

You all talk more on air cond inverter and cable size. I think changing size of cables for the house will cause a bomb. A lot of hacking works......not viable

Accidently found your post, your first 1HP bill RM100+ and change to inverter 1.5HP now bill RM65+......

Now you said Rm20-30/mth

He..He....you are pulling our legs.

That is my total whole house consumption bill. Only the aircon is rm20-30. TNB bill never itemise the bill.

Adalah. Check the aircon thread.

This post has been edited by ozak: Aug 13 2009, 05:37 PM

Whole house bill only.....RM65+ ........don't buy TNB share....where got profit?

Your other electrical goods only consumed RM30+ ????? I can confirm your TNB meter something wrong.........

Don't reveal ur address.....serious offence.

Yes. I always find a way to reduce the consumption. Keep on looking power saving and energy star goods. I calculate the saving before buy some electrical thing.

Why you can consume that much power? Everything big and power hungry things?

Don't reveal ur address.....serious offence. --->???

This post has been edited by ozak: Aug 13 2009, 06:02 PM

Hi cloud9_lee, u hv not informed me if your house is facing west?

My side wall is facing west, i worry if install the material on ceiling make no much difference since the heat from the side wall is not being taken care.

I saw a device being sold at a booth in Tesco which claim to save your electricity bill. Don't know the name. Anyone has this device installed in your house?

Your TNB meter must be energy star and power saving stuff.

Where to buy one??

guys let say the aircond is 1hp...is there any different in power consumption if on 24c and 20c?? or its the same power being use...

TNB meter can buy one meh? Aiya, when buying eletrical thing, alway looking for energy star and power saving one lah. Not difficult right.

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Added on August 15, 2009, 12:09 amOf course have lah. The more lower temp, the higher power consumption.

This post has been edited by ozak: Aug 15 2009, 12:09 AM

got.

the aircond got temp sensor.

obviously the machine need to work longer & harder to maintain the temp at 20deg than 24deg.

TO SUMMARISE ...............

Actually the best way to save electrical cost is to ascertain which electrical appliances you used more often and control the usage of that particular appliance.

Changing cable sizes or buy power saving goods unnecessarily for the sake of energy savings dose not make sense as you are spending unwisely.

Eg. if your air cond. cost make up a large % of the elect. bill, then you may change to inverter air cond and do up insulation for your house. no point spent extra monies to buy an expensive water heater which is labelled energy star if you seldom use the water heater and so forth.

THE BEST IS TO HAVE AN ENERGY STAR METER WHICH WOULD RUN SLOWER (like Ozak's)

BE A SMART CONSUMER !!

Aiya, bro. My meter don't have problem lah. After people think I mess up with the meter.

It is all depend on you how to save the power.