Seng_Kiat: Er, you wanted to use Manual Power on the F58 in Aperture Priority on the A700, right? So you need to enable PASM in C04 on the F58.

Yes, DRO makes your pictures noisier! This is especially so when there is bright sky and dark subject.

If you shoot ISO200, and the subject is underexposed by 3 stops, then DRO will brighten the subject by 3 stops (which makes it effectively ISO1600.)

The Canon 40D, Nikon D300, and Sony A700 v4 all have the same image quality and noise levels. It's just whether you used DRO/ADL/HTP or not.

You can accurately spot meter by changing your AEL button to Spot Meter AEL Toggle. So in the case of bright sky and dark subject, press the AEL button while aiming at the subject and you will get a properly exposed, clean image (but overexposed sky.)

tot31: Whoa, that is far!

HiroBoroi: I shoot IR handheld unmodified on 50mm F1.4 at ISO6400 in black-and-white. Looks just like IR film.

For the record, there are Alpha bodies out there that have been converted to IR.

achew: Aha! Spotted the feathering artifacts around the dog's left ear.

yuenzhi: Don't worry, ISO400 is alright on any Alpha - it goes a long way into getting a crisp image if you can stop down the aperture to say F6.3.

achew: Aha! Spotted the feathering artifacts around the dog's left ear.

albnok : Possible to use manual power on a200 in Aperture mode?

albnok : Possible to use manual power on a200 in Aperture mode?

hi yuenzhi - i ve been analyzing yr pics - here - suggestions from a noob too -

yr exif for the dog pic as shown - 1/30, f3.5 iso 100

yr exif shows that u r using shutter speed of 1/30, normally at that shutter speed its too slow for non posing animals and humans like children (at least 1/50 above if the object can move), ...yr f also shows 3.5 which can capture more lights but your dof will only able to make smaller parts in focus. In your framing the whole body of the dog comprise at least quarter of the pic. At 3.5 with that distance between you and your dog, not all the body of your dog will be in focus thus only small part will be lens sharp, (in the dog case and distance i would prefer  f5 and above). At your setting a slight shake or movement on the subject part will make yr subject not as sharp as you wish. As your shooting is indoor i think u hv no choice but to illuminate yr subject at that setting. That is how a flash (an external flash is better) comes in handy and you are able to hand held yr camera with faster shutter speed and smaller apperture, or if u dont use a flashgun, you can increase yr iso to brighten yr subject but too high an iso will give you undesirable noise . You can set all yr setting as desired with Manual mode  (I suspect u r using  P mode). A proper setting with the help of flashgun will reduce yr amount of time on editing and give u better overall result.
Just my noob opinion.

play with ur lens and find ur sweet spot of ur lens...looking at ur Doggy pig, as what napi said, speed too slow and wide open....

if indoor, try to shoot some object with good lighting... and zoom in...and yes the 16105 are not very much better then kitty, our kitty can be very sharp too...if u know how to use it.

1 more opinion, do feel scare to pump out ur ISO

Seng_Kiat: Er, you wanted to use Manual Power on the F58 in Aperture Priority on the A700, right? So you need to enable PASM in C04 on the F58.

Yes, DRO makes your pictures noisier! This is especially so when there is bright sky and dark subject.

If you shoot ISO200, and the subject is underexposed by 3 stops, then DRO will brighten the subject by 3 stops (which makes it effectively ISO1600.)

The Canon 40D, Nikon D300, and Sony A700 v4 all have the same image quality and noise levels. It's just whether you used DRO/ADL/HTP or not.

You can accurately spot meter by changing your AEL button to Spot Meter AEL Toggle. So in the case of bright sky and dark subject, press the AEL button while aiming at the subject and you will get a properly exposed, clean image (but overexposed sky.)

HiroBoroi: I shoot IR handheld unmodified on 50mm F1.4 at ISO6400 in black-and-white. Looks just like IR film.

For the record, there are Alpha bodies out there that have been converted to IR.

thanks for the heads up dude, im still new in this field, just bought my camera last month. looks like i still have a LOT to learn. n yes i do have a flashgun F58AM, which im still clueless over how to use it, flash photography looks really hard but i shall try haha. im currently using P mode as im still not used to using M mode, im such a noob 
i see, thanks for the advice

Well I'm in the minority group. I like simple and stupid, back to basics stuff like having a tripod and cable release .  If you love to take IR pictures, then an in body stabilization will not be a good thing for conversion of body to IR.

thanks for the heads up dude, im still new in this field, just bought my camera last month. looks like i still have a LOT to learn. n yes i do have a flashgun F58AM, which im still clueless over how to use it, flash photography looks really hard but i shall try haha. im currently using P mode as im still not used to using M mode, im such a noob 
i see, thanks for the advice

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Added on August 17, 2009, 2:31 amdid i mention my dog just gave birth ? taken by kit lens btw, SAL 18-70
good night everybody