New APS-C / DT Crop Lenses ----------------------------
Sony 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 DT = RM20xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA = RM25xx Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM5xx Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Macro = RM30xx
New Full-Frame Lenses ------------------------
Sony 16mm F2.8 Diagonal Fisheye = RM25xx Sony 20mm F2.8 = RM19xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-35mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 = RM18xx Sony 28mm F2.8 = RM8xx Sony 35mm F1.4G = RM45xx Sony 50mm F1.4 = RM10xx Sony 50mm F2.8 Macro = RM14xx Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 Macro = RM30xx Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG HSM Macro = RM38xx Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM = RM54xx Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = RM25xx Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx Sony 100mm F2.8 Macro = RM23xx Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = RM36xx Sony 500mm F8.0 AF Reflex = RM25xx Sony 300mm F2.8G SSM = RM20xxx Sony 1.4x Teleconverter = RM15xx Sony 2.0x Teleconverter = RM15xx
Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You
should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is
too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K
M9.
To prevent the built-in flash from appearing in pictures when in wireless flash mode, you can use any of these
methods, or a combination of them:
- use a darker aperture (e.g. F11) - use a lower ISO (e.g. ISO100) - use a shutter speed faster than your flash sync speed so that High Speed Sync is activated (e.g. 1/320th of a
second) - use a piece of exposed, developed negative film in front of your pop-up flash
As I was saying , no point investing so much on a good filter as most better lens you might buy next time wont be of 55mm diameters. So dont need use filters for kitlens la. (:
This post has been edited by Kul | Mo0: Jul 21 2009, 04:00 PM
As I was saying , no point investing so much on a good filter as most better lens you might buy next time wont be of 55mm diameters. So dont need use filters for kitlens la. (:
if like buying those cheap filter for the lens,will there be any side effect?
Yea some cheap filters might lower the image quality. So either get a good filter or dont use at all. (: And as for me I prefer using a diffuser especially when there's no ceiling and have to direct flash. (:
if like buying those cheap filter for the lens,will there be any side effect?
dun buy the too cheapo filter bro, might be degrade the IQ n flare problem, buy reliable brand like hoya or kenko.. for standard lens, filter about rm50-70 is consider ok la.. but if expensive lens, better use 100+ like pro1d or B+W or CZ
Jul 21 2009, 03:55 PM, updated 17y ago
- A200, A300, A350
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