Who in the h*ll pass sh*t to their loved one?
Please just sell the car at a lost, get some vehicle that you love(like) instead. No need to whine and let your "other half" suffer the "problem" that you faced.

If you wait one more day, the car resale value will drop to 10K. 2 day = drop to Rm1.00.
Later, sell for scrap also no one want.

It will never happen.
Bank will never be that stupid.

Even if you wait halfway thru the loan, you'll still need to pay to release the car. The only time when you do not need to pay to release the car is when you do not have car loan.

Also, only people who love their car stick to their car. Rest will just sell the car and move on. So, please sell and go for your dream car instead. And please do not drive Gen-2 and spoilt the whole tree by being the bad apple.

edit: didnt read enough


This post has been edited by Dovienya: Nov 30 2009, 08:30 AM

30% below.. not below 30%

Sometime, it's not the car. It's the driver.

I think I would be able to driver faster if I have a gf that sit beside me . (more stressful )



101kg = car more stable ma.
60kg = not heavy enough; so car "float" when at high speed.

Wrong liao, dc....

The actual scenario:

Kereta is "biasa" (notice that "...." ? )
Driver is "biasa", just abit on the heavy side (again, notice the "..." ? )
Mindset = unknown..
Experiences (skill) driving a Gen-2 = almost god-hood (if not mistaken )

450 = 1 side , or 1 set (both side)?

will masuk air? JPJ approved (meaning wont kena due to h-light)?

Guys, ask something.

Anyone change their door handle (driver side) before?
roughly how much is the cost?

mine broke

In the meantime, i notice the 2 hole in the door panel. Should I take some plastic and cover them first?

I'm also using a year 2004 Gen-2 (first batch version with the "original" ECU)
I bought it about 2 years ago under second hand.

Maintenance wise - 200$ per service (spare part, bought from shop; service at Proton Authorized centre)

Problem till date: roof, fuel pedal, wiring, horn.
Most of the problem is due to wear and tear (except the roof ). Will repair the roof later
Other than that, some of the cost come because of ichy hand

There is no such thing as "zero problem" and there are also no such thing as "alot of problem". The key to buying a second hand car is to ensure that the car is in relatively good conditions before you purchase it.

I'm also using year2004 ecu, but no pinging sound .
Is it just me ; or I do not know how to listen?

What is the adv. timing setting for the ECU?

I'm quite consistent in maintaining a 3~4k RPM whenever I'm driving. Is this the reason why I dont hear the pinging sound?

hmm...

Possible mine is not the "original" ECU.
Manufacturer and deployed on the road in Dec 2004.

One of the relay is not working already. You might need to get it replace.
I got this problem before, but cant be sure which relay needed to be replaced.

Your aicond valve produce white smoke is because it is too cold. In the long run, it is bad as the air will condense in your "aircond pipe" and "corrode" the pipe.

In another note, how do you know which temp is the coldest, and which is the hottest?
The knob is a clockwork type with Min--->Max.

*Time to spam *

Anyone changed their tyre recently? If yes, what is the cost?

More interested in the choices... would you go for tyres that are aim more toward comfort, or aim toward performance (a.k.a grip?) ? Why ?

I think it's about time I change my tyre. Getting hard to brake after 110km/h.
Add note: My driving style is more of a fast-driving (aiming for consistency of 80km/h ~ 110km/h whenever I drive; which is why I hate traffic jam).

I've been playing it safe all this while by placing it at 12-oclock direction (pointing north; 50-50)


This post has been edited by Dovienya: Feb 4 2010, 03:27 PM

Torque drip is still around.

CPS did "technically" solved this problem; but it is more of a design fault. So, to say that CPS solve it is abit far-stretch. What I would say is that CPS did minimize the drip (due to the IAFM module integration).

CPS actual utilization is in the higher torque powerband. Comparing CPS to normal ver, CPS give more power at the upper powerband.

Also, when you ask opinion (other than this tread), do you ask them if they owe or drive a Gen-2?
Because when I asked (last time), 90% of the reply comes from member who "hear-say" about Gen2.


As a Gen2 driver, I'll say this as well.

PRO:
It is a Proton car, so spare part and maintenance is easier compare to foreign car.

CON:
It is a Proton car, so fuel consumption is not as good as foreign car (especially cars like Vios and City; reason = vios/city is built for fuel-consumption while Gen2 is built for power).


PRO:
The handling is tuned by Lotus (not sure about CPS version), so the car is more agile and have better control.

CON:
I feel that I need the power to assist in control. Feel rough at turtle speed; but almost no control problem if I driver at my normal speed (avg 2~3k rpm).


PRO/CON (you decide):
It is very fuel consumption in a fully 100% city driving (such as KL); my average is 34L (64$) for an average distance of 300KM. This is because I am attempting to drive consistently at 100Km/hour even during 5.45pm (traffic jam period)
Also Known As: With great "Power", come great "Sacrifice"

Summary: test drive and see if you like the feel of the car.

Because CPS come default with IAFM and IAFM "solved" torque drip