In before page 2.

+ me @ stock 1.6 , please

congrate @ v3


Sry.

1.6 AT, Silver, model 2004 (first year batch )

This post has been edited by Dovienya: Jun 22 2009, 12:24 PM

Mine abit different..

Been up Genting's few time on Gen2, and here are my experiences.

Driven by others(madman): This friend of mine is abit mad... He kept D and have no problem. However, he knew when to "makan" other lane (he's an expert on Genting road, a.k.a loses alot of money )

Driven by others(non-madman): Up and down is nice and comfortable.. Driver enter 3rd/2nd gear and let the engine break itself and cruize up and down on it's own. Slow ride, but very comfortable.. I actually felt asleep in my own car (donno if it's the car or it's the driver )

Driven by myself: From the exit of Karak highway, as long as I did not stop (excluding those speed bump), then I have no problem getting to the top. However, all I need is one car to force me to press brake. The second I brake, I need to get into L just to get the car moving again .

To www.makan99.com

Auto car always has higher fuel consumption compare to manual car. (no hard feeling, hazril).
KL road always has worst fuel consumption than outside KL.
Gen2 fuzzy logic uses first generation logic compares to cars developed in year 2008, which uses third generation logic (semi-automatic-trotonic gearbox, peddle shift etc).
KL road has alot of uphill-downhill climb (think highway ramp)
KL has road, NOT highway. When you drive 60km-per-hour on a up-down-3-lane-per-side, it is not a highway, it a road.

You think you have it bad? I used to pay RM90++ (when fuel was at $2.70) for a TOTAL of 250KM.

You want to save fuel? Drive below 70km per hour.

Fuzzy logic gearbox enables me to outspeed and tailgates a lot of vehicles higher CC than me in highway and downhill. When other vehicle need to brake, I can go down the same road without the need to brake at all.

You want to save fuel? Understand the car or sell the car.

All of your post is that you got the car for free, and complains bout fuel. Please start reading and research by using the search function/reading on V1 and V2 about the car.

Since this year, I have move from 60$ for 250KM to 60$ to 320KM on average.

IF you want 40$ for 500KM, dont drive in KL or go and drive other car. Proton Gen2 is never meant to be a fuel-efficient car. Proton Gen2 is meant to be a sport-friendly (superb, above average handling), performance-consciences vehicle. It is and I repeat, NOT a Honda City or Toyota Vios where fuel consumption is the top 3 conditions in their car design.

Best cost-effective method to save fuel = control your right leg. BUT as I say before "Drive slow in Gen2 EQUAL Extremely Boring".
Best method to save fuel = install some/all of the mod posted here. BUT it is not 100% fuel saving, rather I would call it Fuel-Performance-Optimizing

Fuel-Performance-Optimizing SAMPLE:
Stock design = Drive 100km-per-hour, use 36L of petrol, gain total milage 400km
Full Mod = Drive 100Km-per-hour, uses 36L of petrol, gain total milage of 500km
(or) Full Mod = drive 150Km-per-hour, uses 36L of petrol, gain total milage of 400KM

Personally, I havent install any mod, cause I'm a driver of the "(or) Full Mod" concept


P/S: To stop myself from being a jerk:

This is a pricelist from sometime in the year 2008. (Shazamn, sorry to copy your entire post )

1. Large Snorkel increase ur pickup abit - RM80(PM me if u want it...can DIY)
2. Drop In Air Filter (K&N or Pipercross) paired with Large Snorkel further improve ur pickup - RM220-RM260
3. Extractor/Header (R3, Hotbits, Powerzone, Wegow) drastically improve ur pickup as it removes the catalytic converter - RM300 for R3 header...installation not included...can PM me oso...
4. Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) improve ur pickup and response (RECOMMENDED) - RM480 if do at my pomen's place in Seremban...other place in kl oso got but some members regret because no difference at all felt once install...still come to seremban...
5. Everco S-Flow Rear Muffler to get better top end - RM250 in Everco Sunway...if he said RM270 just insist on 250...they'll gave up eventually…
6. Midbox/Bullet depends on ur preference...midbox give better top end...bullet better pickup - RM100-RM200 depends on the brand...
7. Adjustable CamPulley - RM360 for item only...installation + tuning around 250 depends on the place u do it...
8. Lightened Crank Pulley - RM550++ for Mythelogy with Dampener and RM300+ for ayam brand without the dampener
9. Spark Plug Cable - RM200-RM700 depends on brand...expensive doesnt mean good...
10. Denso Iridium IT20/IT22 Spark Plug - RM160-RM180 depend on place u bought it...There's also Volker Iridium or NGK Iridium but Denso is the best so far...
11. Racing clutch - RM1000+ with installation
12. PnP - RM1000+ depends on the place and the 'stage' ure looking at...
13. Rebore the head with bigger piston - RM1000-RM2000+- depends on the place u do it and the stage ure looking at
14. Hi-Cam - RM2000+- with installation depends on brand an place u do it...
15. Final Drive (play with ur gearbox ratio) - RM2000+- with installation depends on brand an place u do it...
16. Still not satisfied? Change to MIVEC Gearbox with better overall ratio
17. Craving for more? Money is not a restriction to u? Convert to MIVEC or GSR...spare around RM20,000 for it...


New Update from me on #17 ... Personally, I rather "turbo-lized" or "CPS-lized" original Cam(tak)pro than to convert to MIVEC or GSR

This post has been edited by Dovienya: Jun 29 2009, 11:54 AM

I thought tea ice and nasi ayam at seremban instead of telephone call?

This post has been edited by Dovienya: Jun 29 2009, 04:16 PM

Easier to think of driving our Gen-2 as having sex .
If we start by going all-out (floor fuel pedal), then it will end too soon and there is no satisfactory result (lower top speed).
If we control the "pace" (controlling the depressing of fuel pedal), then there will be more enjoyable experience (higher top speed).
*our car has feeling*


Back to actual top (not promoting speeding).
In my stock year-2004 Gen-2, I can reach a max of 170km/h. This is because as driver, I lack the confidence to go faster.

Anyhow, I not sure why, but the more often I press brake (normally to slow down), I have a lot of problem trying to reach the "acquired" speed again.

Example: I'm driving at 150km/h on highway. In my front was a vehicle driving slower than me. Therefore, I slow down by depressing fuel pedal (and applying brake to slow down) to about 110km/h. When the vehicle-in-front change to slower lane, my Gen2 will have a very tough time trying to reach 150km/h again (unless I enters a downhill).

Maybe it is just stock setting

My prev car (Daihatsu Charade) windscreen broke before; so, maybe can use as a guideline.

The insurance cost about 200$. But need to wait 2-3 month before can claim, otherwise the insurance company will call for fraud study.

The screen itself cost me bout 600$++ .

So if you can still drive with the cracked screen, recommends to call your agent and "talk" about it. They are "experienced" in these type of cases.

Otherwise, be prepare to fork out 600$ to 1000$ (depending on originality, i think) excluding workshop cost.

Belt is about 200$ . Workmanship is another 100$.

Note that Gen2 uses 1 single belt for both it's aircond and timing.

You might also want to check out the aircond tension bearing (another 250$) as the aircond bearing is normally what causes the "rat-noise". However, aircond tension bearing cannot be checked or replace without taking out the timing belt in the first place.

Alot of people who does not know or understand campro engine will tell you that the rat-noise come from aircond belt (which is true for cars that uses 2 different type of belt).

Those that know Campro engine but is not an expert will tell you that the timing belt (that control aircond belt) causes the sound due to the harden belt after wear and tear. (which can also be true)

Another type (which is me, and might be you) will change the timing belt. This will cause the rat noise to disappear for a few week (mine last a whole month). If you change your belt and the rat noise re-appear, then it's confirm that you will need to change the aircond tension bearing. So far, I do not know of another way of checking it the sound originated from timing belt or aircond tension bearing.

The issue with the aircond tension bearing is a design fault, as the "original" size bearing will cause the rat noise once you use long enough. Some drivers have chosen other type of aircond bearing (reason: different size) to solve this issue, but I am not sure what type(car) of bearing they are using.

p/s: in short. the sound has 2 possible cause; inwhich both will be unknown until you go for the try-and-error approach (or if other sifus here know of alternative).

For me, I've changed the timing belt earlier this year, and have since ignore the rat noise, as i have no more money to invest in car.

This post has been edited by Dovienya: Aug 2 2009, 12:41 AM

Shouldnt the question be "Which model/car is the shorter timing belt used in?"

Since some of the "senior" member is no active at the moment (preparing for holiday, I presume ), I'll see what I can do

Conroe: You'll need to PM shazmn, in case he didn't notice your post about your new car. BTW, congratulations on new car . Remember, don't rempit

kurtkantoi: Your fuel consumption is "extremely" good already. In Full KL Road, my FC is averaging from 10-12L per 100KM , auto transmission. Average for auto is 320KM per full tank of 37L , whereas for Manual is about 400~500KM per 37L (this is full KL road).

I notice that Gen-2 is extremely good in highway-roads or constant speed, but suffer terribly in traffic jam. A full tank (on my auto) can get me to Melaka, "window" shopping in Melaka, and back to KL before the fuel-warning kicks in (that is about 450KM, and I still have about 50~100KM worth of fuel inside the tank )

Conroe: So far (I have my car for slightly over 1 year now) I did not come across any ATF filter. Air, Fuel filter = yes.. ATF Filter = no .. Also note that we do not have aircond belt. We have only a single multi-purpose timing belt. Scissor, anyone?

First, you need to define "sound".

Does it sound like something is loose?
Does it sound like 2 plate shaking ?

Does the sound come from driver door?
Can you get someone to help trace the sound?

Hard to debug without info..

Guys,

You all know how Gen-2 is built based on the drive-by-wire concept, which results in having slightly sluggish feeling compare to other vehicle?


I wonder what will happen if we post this link as part of our arguement

How drive-by-wire is used? .. Amazing for starter

I am facing the same problem as well.

but i think it is more toward the "gear-auto-switch". Can you do some experiments on sloppy road, as well as on flat roads?

Tell us the cause of the problem first ma..

else I'll you.

Ignition lead?
Wat is that?


Just got car already want to mod
Anyway, before you go for FPR, ppl here recommends that you go for exhaust mod first.
Type, method, location = I cannot remember.

Conroe, are you having problem with braking or something? Maybe it is because of brake pad?



B.D, I'm having the same sound but from front left side of my car instead. I suspect it is suspension/spring because the sound only appear if we go pass bump, or uneven "left-right" carbody, but not able to trace (major service in less than 3month time, so I'm dead )

a) The famous 'klunk' sound from front suspension when i go through bumps while turning right. <-- Heard is the metal steering hose hitting the car body.
Never had/heard of this problem before. Maybe expert can help when they're back from Raya next week

b) Dashboard rattling sound especially from the middle aircond vents. Turn aircond speed to after half level can hear the sound. <-- Heard it can't be fix, sort of like design flaw.
This is the famous problem. Cheap solution = put paper on the air-vent. More expensive = take out the whole dashboard, and re-tighten all the screws. PSC solution = change to new air-vent

c) Front passenger door panel rattling sound. <-- I think it's due to the cheapo hard plastics used. Thinking to soundproof all the 4 doors to minimize the vibration sound.
This is the rubber. Between the door frame and the glass, there are those black colour rubber. The sound is because those rubber is now "harden". Changes those and solve the problem. But dont take my word; I havent tested it. The solution is a hear-say solution. Please feel free to try and report back

d) Front suspension got a soft 'nyek nyek' sound when my car body flexes while passing 2 different surface height. <-- Seldom happen but it's there.
This should be suspension problem. I'm facing this now. I think it'll start to happen when the suspension is about time to die (pray I am wrong)

e) Plastics rattling sound like 'klak klak' when going through uneven roads. Heard it's coming from the rear windscreen area. <-- Suspected is the 3rd brake light but not sure. Sent the car to wash yesterday, right after wash no more sound. But came back this morning.
Never heard of this problem (as well) until today. To be truth, I always on my audio to 12-15 volume, and added with the engine sound, it'll be surprise if I can heard it. Sorry, cant help you here as well

PSC = Proton Service Centre

.. Maybe it's time to change to R3 bumper?

Not very sure, but shouldnt it have no sound when you "abuse" your bumper?
Recommends to go for a "bottom" checkup

Off topic abit...

Does this mean, 1 day no need to drive? or drive without filter?

I think it's old new, but would a turbo-charged Campro Engine suit Gen-2 more than existing CamtakPro & CPS?

Campro Turbo

Buta buta kena tembak...

I'm not saying I cucuk Campro Engine ... Just a person that believe that Campro should come out with Campro CPS in the first place.

5 year ago, they announce CPS, just to pull back at the end and release normal Campro. Waited almost 4 years before actually release CPS. Because of this, normal Campro is now known (to me) as CamtakPro lo...

Like that also wanna tembak me...