If you need UWA lens, Tammy 17-50mm f2.8 is out from this league as it's more to walkaround lens.

So you only consider about Tammy 11-18mm and Siggy 10-20. I'll go with Siggy 10-20. Don't spent so much on local set. Btw how much is Sony's 11-18?

EX means Expensive. LuLz

DC means it's not meant for fullframe

This post has been edited by vikingw2k: Feb 4 2009, 12:50 AM

Don't get the Minolta 50mm f1.7. Save up more for the f1.4

You need something called GND filter

This post has been edited by vikingw2k: Feb 5 2009, 10:46 PM

ND is the whole thing will be darken depending on how many stops the ND filter is, GND is gradient, the top part is the darkest, the lower part is lighter and lighter. This is to maintain the sky details(not overblown) and at the same time maintain the ground details too(not too dark).

A sample of GND filter.


This post has been edited by vikingw2k: Feb 5 2009, 11:02 PM

Bingo. The bridge there

2 stop ND will not help as it'll darken the whole scene including your white building. You need GND to darken the sky to bring out the sky details and maintain the building's exposure

Save up slightly more and get the beercan. Forget about the 100-200 and 35-70.

LuLz, don't frighten him with the price la. Hmm, if he didn't get both the lens, I guess he just need to save up extra 2xx-3xx for him to get a Beercan. Somehow I felt that the 35-70 is impractical due to the range. I rather stay with kittehlens and pump the fund for a Beercan

Aiyo, 35-70 is not even a Beercan series la. Beercan is Minolta 70-210mm f4, the big Beercan is Minolta 75-300mm f4.5-5.6.

I would love to but I'm working this Saturday Else can poison you with some f1.2 lenses

If you want to get GND, go for Cokin filters, it's square and slide in filters. Not screw in type. No, you don't need to hold in front of the lens, the Cokin filter set comes with a Filter Holder where you just need to slide the filters in.

Around RM3k only.

Thanks for sharing with them. Nice info there

How about save up a little more and go for B+W?

I'm using 82mm B+W. Loving it.

That lens's performance is far from Beercan, hence that explains why I don't consider it in the Beercan Family else it's just a shame to Beercan series. Well, you can have your opinion to call it as Baby Beercan with whatever reason. It's all up to an individual to accept or not. Afterall it's just a name. I'm more concerned in the IQ.

White lens will only make you look like a pro, but will not make you one. It still depends on you yourself.

This post has been edited by vikingw2k: Feb 7 2009, 01:56 AM

How about hunt for a used one?

IQ depends on individual. Some might find that the IQ is ok, some might not. To me it's quite soft. No offense.

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Added on February 7, 2009, 2:21 amIf you don't need it urgently and don't mind waiting, just wait and see. If getting that flash earlier could help you to earn more money, just grab it. All depends on your need.

That's why it's always better to get a used one. But have to make sure you need know how to check


This post has been edited by vikingw2k: Feb 7 2009, 02:21 AM

You can always grab some part time job and work ya ass up to fund for better lenses and body

I hardly suggest you, unless you tell me what do you plan to shoot, what do you need, and why do you want to upgrade. Better noise control? Better body features? Bigger Aperture? Longer range? Just for the sake of upgrading? or other reason?



This post has been edited by vikingw2k: Feb 7 2009, 10:05 AM

For RM4k, you can get yourself the below
- a new Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 HSM as your UWA lens
- a new Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 as your walkaround lens.
- a used Minolta 50mm f1.7 as your budget portrait lens.

No such thing as front element is loose, the only issue about this lens is that some might suffer from Front or Back focusing problem. Just make sure you test kaw kaw before you buy. It's a very good lens with big aperture.

Not very sure about that

I doubt the CZ 16-80mm f3.5-4.5 IQ can beat the Tammy 17-50mm f2.8 in terms of sharpness at wide open.

Depends on what you need. If you need longer range but willing to sacrifice the big constant aperture, you may go ahead

Download the focus chart?