Don't be ridiculous. It's just a T-shirt I wore at home.

What's his reasoning? If memory recalls, I stumbled upon a tailoring diagram awhile back at the cutterandtailor forum on taking in pants. Both seams were taken in equal amount to preserve the balance.

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Added on June 10, 2010, 7:55 pmTaken from a tailor of SF



ISTT is one lazybone.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jun 10 2010, 07:55 PM

Thanks for the explanation, Lokechai. I shall accost ISTT with his slothfulness the next time I see him, which may be soon (see below).

--------------------------------------------------

It is time to plan my wardrobe for the remainder of 2nd half 2010. The strategic challenges are

a) a company outing up in several weeks, probably to a beach resort overseas,
b) the need to migrate away from adolescent polos,
c) to linenize as many articles of casual clothing as possible, and
d) to firm up my reputation as an always-appropriately-dressed overpaid lowyat surfer at my workplace.

The wardrobe development will focus on two core areas: (semi)formalwear and casual wear. Here is the development pipeline.

(Semi)formalwear
--------------------
Pale blue broadcloth -- classic collar, classic cut
White broadcloth -- classic collar, classic cut
Light blue twill -- classic collar, classic cut

Casualwear
-------------
White linen -- long pants with belt loops and patch pockets
Baby blue linen -- buttondown, classic cut
Mexico linen -- buttondown, short sleeves, slim fit, very short (for wearing untucked)


All the cloth have been procured, now it's the tailors' turn.

im curious about this ISTT

...

Just a provincial tailor I use for my linens. No matter how sharp the tailoring, linen looks shabby, so why not use a tailor not capable of sharp, precise tailoring since his prices are 50% of AL's.

Still waiting for the picture of kotmj's pink dress...show it to the world....

Tan Sri, your every wish is my command...

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Added on June 13, 2010, 1:30 amI want one!



This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 13 2010, 01:54 AM

very nice,,,,how much excess cloth did you ask for chest-waist-hip area? -----i think the sleeve length is arguable...

Sleeves can be a hair shorter.

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Added on June 13, 2010, 11:38 amI've just dug up something precious and meticulously tailored. But I won't reveal any of that now.

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Added on June 13, 2010, 1:41 pmKot Lou Yea's recent choice of colors and style are very worrying. Perhaps it's time we get him a girlfriend.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jun 13 2010, 01:41 PM

The sleeves length is similar like most of Jermyn Street's dress shirt....esp the one that i bought in London..which are currently altered by ALT....

hey guys.one quick question.do u know any shops doing altering for t-shirt around subang/shah alam?

I don't think I understand this question. You want my body measurements and the shirt measurements? So you can replicate the fit?

its for the opposite actually-----i personally prefer the first shirt alt made for you

Oh I see. This latest shirt is 0.75" wider at the back and 0.5" wider at the front. Probably because of this, the sleeves got pushed out further, causing the excess length. (I will have the sleeve altered the next time I'm there.)

The extra front drape is necessary because the previous shirt was simply too body-conscious, people were looking at my shirt instead of me. It was also rather restrictive at the back when hunched over my desk.

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Added on June 14, 2010, 10:22 amDespite the excess width, I told AL I do not want bunching around the beltline. Which is why the two darts at the back extend all the way to the bottom hem. This shirt cannot be worm untucked because it is too narrow around the hips. It sorts of grips the trousers there.

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Added on June 14, 2010, 12:19 pmNow that I've gained more experience with shirts, it has proven to be helpful to see the shirt as being composed of two independent entities: the front and the back.

The front is independent of the back. If you add drape to the front, only the front will have drape, not the back. Ditto the reverse. How much of the contours of your hard-gained pectorals you want to show is determined by the underarm width of the front panels. How comfortable you will feel hunched over your desk is determined by the back width.

This makes the whole online shirt MTM stuff a big nonsense. There, you merely give the circumference of your torso, but you cannot specify how much goes to the back and how much to the front.

WRT the sleeve length: It's not just about avoiding bunching. This is how Turnbull & Asser finds the sleeves length.



This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 14 2010, 03:34 PM

youve seen the light,,,,i think now we can agree that the design of pivot sleeve shirt is somehow functional---its a form follow function shirt

-----------

i can only imagine we only need extra cloth at the back than front,,,unless we have boobs---thats why online mtm stuff still progressively ongoing

the idea of an independant front / back panel is too troublesome to dream / think about and even more ma fan for an average tailor to implement,,,,
id just usually request for a back side pleat to overcome this issue---

Actually, I still do not see how the pivot sleeve is functional beyond giving more shape to the shirt.

A shirt needs to be balanced just like a suit jacket. If you have a 45-year old client who has spent 24 years hunched over the keyboard, his upper back will be stooped. His is a "crooked" figure, and you need more back length and back width than at the front. Then you have a skinny 18-year old guy who loves bench pressing in the gym, so he has a bony back but well-developed chest. He has an erect posture. You need more front width than back.

Well, I went to home based MBT today for a gingham shirt and royal blue pants. It was a pleasant experience. Apparently he never fuses his shirts. He also showed me a roll of shirt interlining and fusing, they are about 1 meter long. The fusing is very translucent, easily ripped apart. He said he only uses them on pants.

The polyester interlining feels soft. I like it.

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Added on June 14, 2010, 7:26 pmWe parted in good terms. Moments after I left, a somber feeling struck me. His old age makes me feel despair and I can see that from the lines on his face. Perhaps many years from now, the pair of POW pants he made for me can take me back to the past each time I look at them. I'm sure they will bring tears to my eyes as it is not just an ordinary pair of pants. It's a time machine.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jun 14 2010, 07:28 PM

I think ALL OF U have to start looking for girlfriends..... that kind of emotional feeling really scare me.....awwwwwwww

This post has been edited by silencer: Jun 15 2010, 01:17 AM

i agree, loke chai and kokmj should just give in to the sexual tension between them.

This post has been edited by Cheenoo: Jun 15 2010, 07:24 PM

Lokechai has a gentle soul. But he snarls like a little cat when someone wants to use his tailor...



This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 15 2010, 05:57 PM