May 23 2010, 05:58 PM
QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 23 2010, 04:42 PM)
Wtf?
It looks kinda odd, but it actually works. The shirt is drying now, I might take a pic of it.Added on May 23, 2010, 6:26 pm
QUOTE(malutapimau @ May 23 2010, 02:49 PM)
ive discovered that the white cotton linen @ kamdar can be the best substitute of this unsourceable cotton interfacing,,,
the shirt fits very very well, it makes me rethink that my decision to go with traditional english cut shirts was a bad idea,,,,i should ask for more fitted cut----the soft collar / cuffs probably are the best ive seen so far,,2-3x better than mines are---
id ask for no selvage on any parts of the pants nxt time------we dont want people to have an impression that teh pants is the only premium cloth we have / its our 1st time dealing w/ premium cloth thus the reason we tell the world about it?
----errrr its like my flirt guru used to say----those that spend the night with pretty girls everyday tell no one about it,, those that do it one time will tell everyone about it---
My journey wrt fit is a long one. AL made me a shirt: It was wonderful. A conventional fit shirt, a little roomy everywhere, but so nice. Then I went to Ron at Fit&Match who made me a shirt like a second skin: it was very close fitting and showed the contours of my body, but a little puffy at the back and tight at the elbows. Then I had ISTT copy Ron's cut while adding 0.5" to the elbows for a white linen shirt. But such a cut is not suitable for business -- it's more for showing I go to the gym. So I went to MBT3 and had 2 shirts made with an extra inch to the torso and 0.5" to the elbows. I was happy with this fit. When I went to AL last week for my latest shirt, he said MBT3's were too wide and the balance off. He reduced the front by 0.5" and the back by 1" while keeping the elbow measurement. Added 0.25" to the neck for more comfort. Made the collar taller. So this shirt is actually EVEN NARROWER than Ron's. It's just that the extra drape at the back was relocated to the front. the shirt fits very very well, it makes me rethink that my decision to go with traditional english cut shirts was a bad idea,,,,i should ask for more fitted cut----the soft collar / cuffs probably are the best ive seen so far,,2-3x better than mines are---
id ask for no selvage on any parts of the pants nxt time------we dont want people to have an impression that teh pants is the only premium cloth we have / its our 1st time dealing w/ premium cloth thus the reason we tell the world about it?
----errrr its like my flirt guru used to say----those that spend the night with pretty girls everyday tell no one about it,, those that do it one time will tell everyone about it---
The selvedge is invisible. It is hidden deep inside the front pocket. This is the traditional place to put the selvedge to remind the owner of the cloth. (I only use good cloth.) This is my fifth pair of bespoke trousers.
Added on May 23, 2010, 6:45 pmThe reason I went back to using AL even though he was more expensive than any of the others is because, after trying so many tailors, none came close to the degree of perfection in workmanship. Ron did a fantastic job for me -- single needle double stitches, beautiful buttonholes, high-density stitches, removable stays, hand-sewn buttons etc etc. All made in-house in The Curve. But this is not his usual way of make.
But AL's workmanship is just incredible. The highest-density stitches I've seen anywhere, and when I hold the collar or cuffs to the light, I can see that even the insides are cut/folded symmetrically. I tried to get MBT3 to deliver this quality, and he tried hard, but I could see the struggle in the shirt. The unfamiliarity and sweat. AL did not have to try. He just is like this. No trying. Just being. A natural, effortless joining of cloth.
This post has been edited by kotmj: May 23 2010, 06:52 PM
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