Trust me, you won't feel anything different apart from the heat. You do wear undergarments, don't you?

Loke-chai is usually right (on some things, sometimes. Not as right as me, obviously) but he is dead wrong on this one. Fully-lined trousers (rayon, visocose) are very luxurious. The whole idea of lining it to below the knee is to make walking and sitting in them more pleasant.

that's it... can someone point me on the most recommended fabric for pants without the needs for dry cleaning....

walnek was just asking this question...i haven't found any. Mine are all wool and need to be dry cleaned.

there was one i bought in the past which was polyester but a very convincing imitation of wool. a few washes made it look old and unappetizing.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 22 2010, 12:39 PM

I'll be picking up my non-fused premium 2-ply cotton shirt and premium Mitsubishi rayon-lined trousers in a few hours.

Anybody going to ALT?

My thighs and knees are actually comfortable enough without any lining. Ironing lined pants is so torturing I would rather walk out in boxers. The old man never ironed his own clothes.

This post has been edited by bloke1: May 22 2010, 02:52 PM

I never have to iron lined pants because they are wool and need to be dry cleaned and they come crisply ironed. They do it on a steam press PssZZK! the steam goes through and the pants are ironed.

But I believe they lack such technology in the provinces.

Called him this morning, but my suit is not ready. So, I'll only drop by the week after, which is current eta.

Do post your new acquisition.

Shirt and trousers new. Been eating badly and not worked out in 2 months because of new job and new home.



The collar and cuffs are interlined with cotton. Unfused.



In particular, the cuffs are a single layer of interlining while the collar has two.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 22 2010, 09:10 PM

My skin is only accustomed to abrasion from the legs of pretty girls, so require lining to avoid irritating them.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 22 2010, 09:28 PM

Hi Bros, any idea on Biwani's? The tailor's name is Andrew. Hows it? Any experience with him?

No, no experience with him. Go try and then show us the results..

We all know that's your KH shirt.

---

Added on May 22, 2010, 10:04 pmI hear you old man Kot, you are hungry for the FIH knot, but to learn the ancient methods, secret doors you must unlock.

This post has been edited by bloke1: May 22 2010, 10:12 PM

Hand-sewn, and therefore lengthily shanked, MOPs (by me, at home).


Butterfly gusset


Removable collar stay


Split yoke


I want to award him with the kotmj warrant. Infinitely more value than any royal warrant.

Now for the pants.




Selvedge in the pocket


Pocketing, skirting, lining, piping and buttonholing


Waistband skirting


This post has been edited by kotmj: May 23 2010, 12:29 AM

[quote=kotmj,May 23 2010, 12:11 AM]
Hand-sewn, and therefore lengthily shanked, MOPs (by me, at home).


very good job

Butterfly gusset


is this necessary? ive a shirt w/ this gusset and its non-functional (just a bleh feature),,,,rule #1----form follow function

Split yoke


why do ones need a split yoke when he has a symetrical body? form follow funtion..........

[quote=kotmj,May 23 2010, 12:28 AM]
Now for the pants.


pants must be a torture to do / undo,,,,,i gave up wearing buttonfly pants,,,and mine were only had 3buttons (w/ hook-hook at extended tab,,,)

Don't knot the ends.

This is the only tailor I know in KL who can make an unfused collar, and such a refined one at that. The cotton interlining is old stock from the days when these things were common. Once he uses them up, they're gone for good. So place your order now before silencer places his mega order of 10 or more shirts.

This unfused collar feels very different from a fused one, even if a soft fused one. It is floppy, supple and soft, and bends any way. It cossets your neck, instead of strangling it. It has almost no structure by itself. Buttery.

I did not ask for the gusset nor for the split yoke. I personally find them superfluous too. I only found out about them when I collected the shirt. He said he will give me Jermyn Street make, and they all have these features.

The pants fit like a dream. This pair proves that double pleating and side adjusters do not a sloppy pair make. I debated on whether to return to the zip fly. It is frustrating to have to unbutton the fly when rushing to the loo with an overfull bladder due to a meeting that lasted twice as long as planned. But the zip fly has zero charm. A button fly, OTOH, evokes associations with an older and gentler time.

I've collected my white cotton-linen cutaway buttondown with unfused cuffs and collar. ISTT did an incredible job. But the fabric is not as cool as pure linen. It's between cotton and linen in coolness. The MOPs add a very special touch. The collar is soft and rumply, but doesn't stand away or do strange things like other soft collars because it's a buttondown.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 23 2010, 02:29 PM

ive discovered that the white cotton linen @ kamdar can be the best substitute of this unsourceable cotton interfacing,,,

the shirt fits very very well, it makes me rethink that my decision to go with traditional english cut shirts was a bad idea,,,,i should ask for more fitted cut----the soft collar / cuffs probably are the best ive seen so far,,2-3x better than mines are---

id ask for no selvage on any parts of the pants nxt time------we dont want people to have an impression that teh pants is the only premium cloth we have / its our 1st time dealing w/ premium cloth thus the reason we tell the world about it?
----errrr its like my flirt guru used to say----those that spend the night with pretty girls everyday tell no one about it,, those that do it one time will tell everyone about it---

Wtf?