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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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bloke1
post May 2 2010, 04:23 PM

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I found this shirt but I'm not sure is this linen. Very lightweight. It has slubs.

This post has been edited by bloke1: May 2 2010, 04:25 PM
kotmj
post May 2 2010, 10:19 PM

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Dunno what that is. Linen is expensive relative to cotton.
bloke1
post May 2 2010, 10:42 PM

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I'm going to believe that it's linen for the moment.
malutapimau
post May 3 2010, 10:37 AM

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cloth is either:
poly-linen
linen-rayon
cotton-linen
pure linen,,,
try do a burn test---pure linen should be the slowest burner
superfluous
post May 3 2010, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 2 2010, 10:19 PM)
Dunno what that is. Linen is expensive relative to cotton.
*
on average by how much?

and how many meters of cloth that i need for a long sleeved shirt approximately?
malutapimau
post May 3 2010, 12:36 PM

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~1.6-2metres----
bloke1
post May 4 2010, 05:24 PM

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I just don't understand why tailors couldn't sew on a shirt button properly by hand. Look at the knotted ends. That's not nice.
[attachmentid=1560406]

See how I do mine.
[attachmentid=1560401][attachmentid=1560400]

No fraying. Just clean stitches. Look carefully and you can see the knots are all hidden. The secret is in the shank. The knotted end is wrapped over and over again in order to form a shank and then the shank is pierced through, giving a nice and tight impression. It also gives enough slack, minimizing strain when buttoned. This is where most tailors failed. A hand-sewn button outwins any machine sewn ones when done right. Even though I'm using a thin polyester thread I'm sure my buttons can stay longer than his.

This post has been edited by bloke1: May 4 2010, 06:31 PM
absorb-d
post May 5 2010, 02:52 PM

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all these talk bout tailors, any1 can point me to a tailor doing alterations to pants in klang valley
got a few pants to alter, some are AX shud i just take them there or other independents can do just as well
malutapimau
post May 5 2010, 03:11 PM

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very good hand-sewn work,,,and very nice thick button too

---------

i sent my tailored clothes to another tailor for hand-sewn buttons service,,,,i can ask for cross-stitched / chickenfoot-stitched / zorro-stitched buttons w/ shanks,,,he charged rm5 per cloth-----his handsewn will look like alex kabbaz clothes we seen on the net,,,

i dont know why, but i found that tailors that master in using sewing machine suck at handsewn technique
those that can handsew beautifully suck with sewing machien

This post has been edited by malutapimau: May 5 2010, 03:17 PM
crapoccur
post May 5 2010, 05:31 PM

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QUOTE(absorb-d @ May 5 2010, 02:52 PM)
all these talk bout tailors, any1 can point me to a tailor doing alterations to pants in klang valley
got a few pants to alter, some are AX shud i just take them there or other independents can do just as well
*
If you're just doing length alteration, any tailor would do. Jind recommends Ruths at KLCC. As for going to AX for alteration, I think you could probably get better workmanship outside.
bloke1
post May 5 2010, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ May 5 2010, 03:11 PM)
very good hand-sewn work,,,and very nice thick button too

---------

i sent my tailored clothes to another tailor for hand-sewn buttons service,,,,i can ask for cross-stitched / chickenfoot-stitched / zorro-stitched buttons w/ shanks,,,he charged rm5 per cloth-----his handsewn will look like alex kabbaz clothes we seen on the net,,,

i dont know why, but i found that tailors that master in using sewing machine suck at handsewn technique
those that can handsew beautifully suck with sewing machien
*
It's actually a Pa**** shirt. The quality of the sewing is so awful I have to remove every button and sew it on again.
antaeusguy
post May 5 2010, 08:27 PM

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QUOTE(absorb-d @ May 5 2010, 02:52 PM)
all these talk bout tailors, any1 can point me to a tailor doing alterations to pants in klang valley
got a few pants to alter, some are AX shud i just take them there or other independents can do just as well
*
If for casual wear pants (khakis, jeans etc...), try ZA Altera @ Mid Valley (1 level below Carrefour/GNC, beside the car park payment counter). The ladies there are pretty good tailors, price are reasonable too smile.gif

If for business wear pants (slacks etc...), try Sparkmanshop @ 1 Utama Old Wing (Ground floor, walking distance from Jusco departmental store). I find them alter business wear to be better craftmanship smile.gif
absorb-d
post May 6 2010, 09:26 AM

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QUOTE(antaeusguy @ May 5 2010, 08:27 PM)
If for casual wear pants (khakis, jeans etc...), try ZA Altera @ Mid Valley (1 level below Carrefour/GNC, beside the car park payment counter). The ladies there are pretty good tailors, price are reasonable too  smile.gif

If for business wear pants (slacks etc...), try Sparkmanshop @ 1 Utama Old Wing (Ground floor, walking distance from Jusco departmental store). I find them alter business wear to be better craftmanship  smile.gif
*
thx
out of curiosity ; in wat range does reasonable include rolleyes.gif
kotmj
post May 8 2010, 05:37 PM

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Alright, so I picked up my 2 shirts of cheapo cotton from MBT3.

Everything is OK. I love them. However, 2 weak points:

1) The cloths are cheap and look cheap.
2) The buttons are machine sewn, shankless, so they cause the buttonholes to pucker. MBT3 said he will sew them again by hand, but I said I am in serious need of shirts and cannot wait another week.

I went to the biggest button seller in Malaysia. It's not a "kedai peralatan jahitan". It's a "kedai butang". Bought a suit set of MOPs, 2 types of glueless collar interlining, some needles and polyester thread (to redo the buttons myself, better than Loke-chai), and 3 pairs of STAR (Czech) trouser buckles.

Then I went and bought 2 lengths of premium shirting cotton. Kinda expensive, RM175 for both together. And I bough 1 length of white cotton/linen cloth from Kamdar. And another dozen MOP shirting buttons.

Shit. Shouldn't go to TAR so often.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 8 2010, 05:43 PM
antaeusguy
post May 8 2010, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(absorb-d @ May 6 2010, 09:26 AM)
thx
out of curiosity ; in wat range does reasonable include  rolleyes.gif
*
Say you've a pair of jeans that you want to alter the length only, it's about RM 10 - RM 15. They will keep the hem of the jeans if requested, so that even the length is altered, it looks very natural like it was never altered before. They cut the hem and reattach the hem to the shortened jeans.

If you want to reduce the hip size of the jeans, then it cost more, around RM 30.

They have a menu of the cost of alterations displayed at their shop, although I can't remember it but it's all reasonable.
rebecks
post May 9 2010, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 8 2010, 05:37 PM)
Alright, so I picked up my 2 shirts of cheapo cotton from MBT3.

Everything is OK. I love them. However, 2 weak points:

1) The cloths are cheap and look cheap.
2) The buttons are machine sewn, shankless, so they cause the buttonholes to pucker. MBT3 said he will sew them again by hand, but I said I am in serious need of shirts and cannot wait another week.

I went to the biggest button seller in Malaysia. It's not a "kedai peralatan jahitan". It's a "kedai butang". Bought a suit set of MOPs, 2 types of glueless collar interlining, some needles and polyester thread (to redo the buttons myself, better than Loke-chai), and 3 pairs of STAR (Czech) trouser buckles.

Then I went and bought 2 lengths of premium shirting cotton. Kinda expensive, RM175 for both together. And I bough 1 length of white cotton/linen cloth from Kamdar. And another dozen MOP shirting buttons.

Shit. Shouldn't go to TAR so often.
*
biggest button seller in malaysia...would u kindly give exact locations of the premise? thanks.
kotmj
post May 9 2010, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(rebecks @ May 9 2010, 10:15 AM)
biggest button seller in malaysia...would u kindly give exact locations of the premise? thanks.
*
you wish
malutapimau
post May 9 2010, 07:17 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 8 2010, 05:37 PM)
.........
I went to the biggest button seller in Malaysia. It's not a "kedai peralatan jahitan". It's a "kedai butang". Bought a suit set of MOPs, 2 types of glueless collar interlining, some needles and polyester thread (to redo the buttons myself, better than Loke-chai), and 3 pairs of STAR (Czech) trouser buckles.
................
*
are the collar interfacing cotton type?
kotmj
post May 9 2010, 07:21 PM

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no leh. polyester. but they have many stiffness grades, I think 4 or 5. i took the two softest.
malutapimau
post May 9 2010, 07:54 PM

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ic----id recommend machinewash them before send to tailors,,,it will soften them a lot (low plasticky sound)

i gave up searching for cotton interfacing, i ended up send my fabrics to tailor for shirts using self-fabric for collar / cuffs----all is 4shirts at one go (i dont know what was into me that time)

shirts are inspired by traditional english cut (like budd of piccadilly shirts) but cut slimmer (a la outlier pivot sleeve shirts)

self fabrics as collar / cuffs interfacing
smallish (but acceptable) form of front pocket in shirt history
medium spread collar, longer collar point, higher collar band, 2-button cuffs
moderate excess cloth fr body measurements (not too slim, not too roomy)

my target is to have the most natural shirts ever (crease / wrinkles everywhere)



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