I found this shirt but I'm not sure is this linen. Very lightweight. It has slubs.
This post has been edited by bloke1: May 2 2010, 04:25 PM
The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit
The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit
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May 2 2010, 04:23 PM
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Senior Member
996 posts Joined: Jan 2010 From: City of Angkorek |
I found this shirt but I'm not sure is this linen. Very lightweight. It has slubs.
This post has been edited by bloke1: May 2 2010, 04:25 PM |
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May 2 2010, 10:19 PM
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Dunno what that is. Linen is expensive relative to cotton.
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May 2 2010, 10:42 PM
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Senior Member
996 posts Joined: Jan 2010 From: City of Angkorek |
I'm going to believe that it's linen for the moment.
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May 3 2010, 10:37 AM
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Senior Member
751 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
cloth is either:
poly-linen linen-rayon cotton-linen pure linen,,, try do a burn test---pure linen should be the slowest burner |
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May 3 2010, 11:06 AM
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27 posts Joined: Apr 2010 |
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May 3 2010, 12:36 PM
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751 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
~1.6-2metres----
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May 4 2010, 05:24 PM
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Senior Member
996 posts Joined: Jan 2010 From: City of Angkorek |
I just don't understand why tailors couldn't sew on a shirt button properly by hand. Look at the knotted ends. That's not nice.
[attachmentid=1560406] See how I do mine. [attachmentid=1560401][attachmentid=1560400] No fraying. Just clean stitches. Look carefully and you can see the knots are all hidden. The secret is in the shank. The knotted end is wrapped over and over again in order to form a shank and then the shank is pierced through, giving a nice and tight impression. It also gives enough slack, minimizing strain when buttoned. This is where most tailors failed. A hand-sewn button outwins any machine sewn ones when done right. Even though I'm using a thin polyester thread I'm sure my buttons can stay longer than his. This post has been edited by bloke1: May 4 2010, 06:31 PM |
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May 5 2010, 02:52 PM
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1,115 posts Joined: Dec 2008 |
all these talk bout tailors, any1 can point me to a tailor doing alterations to pants in klang valley
got a few pants to alter, some are AX shud i just take them there or other independents can do just as well |
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May 5 2010, 03:11 PM
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751 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
very good hand-sewn work,,,and very nice thick button too
--------- i sent my tailored clothes to another tailor for hand-sewn buttons service,,,,i can ask for cross-stitched / chickenfoot-stitched / zorro-stitched buttons w/ shanks,,,he charged rm5 per cloth-----his handsewn will look like alex kabbaz clothes we seen on the net,,, i dont know why, but i found that tailors that master in using sewing machine suck at handsewn technique those that can handsew beautifully suck with sewing machien This post has been edited by malutapimau: May 5 2010, 03:17 PM |
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May 5 2010, 05:31 PM
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Junior Member
489 posts Joined: Sep 2007 From: Malacca || Cyberjaya |
QUOTE(absorb-d @ May 5 2010, 02:52 PM) all these talk bout tailors, any1 can point me to a tailor doing alterations to pants in klang valley If you're just doing length alteration, any tailor would do. Jind recommends Ruths at KLCC. As for going to AX for alteration, I think you could probably get better workmanship outside.got a few pants to alter, some are AX shud i just take them there or other independents can do just as well |
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May 5 2010, 05:41 PM
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Senior Member
996 posts Joined: Jan 2010 From: City of Angkorek |
QUOTE(malutapimau @ May 5 2010, 03:11 PM) very good hand-sewn work,,,and very nice thick button too It's actually a Pa**** shirt. The quality of the sewing is so awful I have to remove every button and sew it on again.--------- i sent my tailored clothes to another tailor for hand-sewn buttons service,,,,i can ask for cross-stitched / chickenfoot-stitched / zorro-stitched buttons w/ shanks,,,he charged rm5 per cloth-----his handsewn will look like alex kabbaz clothes we seen on the net,,, i dont know why, but i found that tailors that master in using sewing machine suck at handsewn technique those that can handsew beautifully suck with sewing machien |
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May 5 2010, 08:27 PM
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209 posts Joined: Feb 2010 |
QUOTE(absorb-d @ May 5 2010, 02:52 PM) all these talk bout tailors, any1 can point me to a tailor doing alterations to pants in klang valley If for casual wear pants (khakis, jeans etc...), try ZA Altera @ Mid Valley (1 level below Carrefour/GNC, beside the car park payment counter). The ladies there are pretty good tailors, price are reasonable too got a few pants to alter, some are AX shud i just take them there or other independents can do just as well If for business wear pants (slacks etc...), try Sparkmanshop @ 1 Utama Old Wing (Ground floor, walking distance from Jusco departmental store). I find them alter business wear to be better craftmanship |
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May 6 2010, 09:26 AM
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1,115 posts Joined: Dec 2008 |
QUOTE(antaeusguy @ May 5 2010, 08:27 PM) If for casual wear pants (khakis, jeans etc...), try ZA Altera @ Mid Valley (1 level below Carrefour/GNC, beside the car park payment counter). The ladies there are pretty good tailors, price are reasonable too thxIf for business wear pants (slacks etc...), try Sparkmanshop @ 1 Utama Old Wing (Ground floor, walking distance from Jusco departmental store). I find them alter business wear to be better craftmanship out of curiosity ; in wat range does reasonable include |
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May 8 2010, 05:37 PM
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Alright, so I picked up my 2 shirts of cheapo cotton from MBT3.
Everything is OK. I love them. However, 2 weak points: 1) The cloths are cheap and look cheap. 2) The buttons are machine sewn, shankless, so they cause the buttonholes to pucker. MBT3 said he will sew them again by hand, but I said I am in serious need of shirts and cannot wait another week. I went to the biggest button seller in Malaysia. It's not a "kedai peralatan jahitan". It's a "kedai butang". Bought a suit set of MOPs, 2 types of glueless collar interlining, some needles and polyester thread (to redo the buttons myself, better than Loke-chai), and 3 pairs of STAR (Czech) trouser buckles. Then I went and bought 2 lengths of premium shirting cotton. Kinda expensive, RM175 for both together. And I bough 1 length of white cotton/linen cloth from Kamdar. And another dozen MOP shirting buttons. Shit. Shouldn't go to TAR so often. This post has been edited by kotmj: May 8 2010, 05:43 PM |
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May 8 2010, 09:56 PM
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209 posts Joined: Feb 2010 |
QUOTE(absorb-d @ May 6 2010, 09:26 AM) Say you've a pair of jeans that you want to alter the length only, it's about RM 10 - RM 15. They will keep the hem of the jeans if requested, so that even the length is altered, it looks very natural like it was never altered before. They cut the hem and reattach the hem to the shortened jeans.If you want to reduce the hip size of the jeans, then it cost more, around RM 30. They have a menu of the cost of alterations displayed at their shop, although I can't remember it but it's all reasonable. |
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May 9 2010, 10:15 AM
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96 posts Joined: Apr 2008 |
QUOTE(kotmj @ May 8 2010, 05:37 PM) Alright, so I picked up my 2 shirts of cheapo cotton from MBT3. biggest button seller in malaysia...would u kindly give exact locations of the premise? thanks.Everything is OK. I love them. However, 2 weak points: 1) The cloths are cheap and look cheap. 2) The buttons are machine sewn, shankless, so they cause the buttonholes to pucker. MBT3 said he will sew them again by hand, but I said I am in serious need of shirts and cannot wait another week. I went to the biggest button seller in Malaysia. It's not a "kedai peralatan jahitan". It's a "kedai butang". Bought a suit set of MOPs, 2 types of glueless collar interlining, some needles and polyester thread (to redo the buttons myself, better than Loke-chai), and 3 pairs of STAR (Czech) trouser buckles. Then I went and bought 2 lengths of premium shirting cotton. Kinda expensive, RM175 for both together. And I bough 1 length of white cotton/linen cloth from Kamdar. And another dozen MOP shirting buttons. Shit. Shouldn't go to TAR so often. |
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May 9 2010, 10:18 AM
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
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May 9 2010, 07:17 PM
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751 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
QUOTE(kotmj @ May 8 2010, 05:37 PM) ......... are the collar interfacing cotton type?I went to the biggest button seller in Malaysia. It's not a "kedai peralatan jahitan". It's a "kedai butang". Bought a suit set of MOPs, 2 types of glueless collar interlining, some needles and polyester thread (to redo the buttons myself, better than Loke-chai), and 3 pairs of STAR (Czech) trouser buckles. ................ |
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May 9 2010, 07:21 PM
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
no leh. polyester. but they have many stiffness grades, I think 4 or 5. i took the two softest.
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May 9 2010, 07:54 PM
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751 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
ic----id recommend machinewash them before send to tailors,,,it will soften them a lot (low plasticky sound)
i gave up searching for cotton interfacing, i ended up send my fabrics to tailor for shirts using self-fabric for collar / cuffs----all is 4shirts at one go (i dont know what was into me that time) shirts are inspired by traditional english cut (like budd of piccadilly shirts) but cut slimmer (a la outlier pivot sleeve shirts) self fabrics as collar / cuffs interfacing smallish (but acceptable) form of front pocket in shirt history medium spread collar, longer collar point, higher collar band, 2-button cuffs moderate excess cloth fr body measurements (not too slim, not too roomy) my target is to have the most natural shirts ever (crease / wrinkles everywhere) |
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