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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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malutapimau
post Apr 29 2010, 06:21 AM

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nice very slim shirt, crapoccur----even slimmer than milanese cut shirt
maybe because its very slim i couldnt see any wrinkle / crease on it
isit all cotton / cotton blend?
crapoccur
post Apr 29 2010, 01:34 PM

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to be honest, i really don't know what kind of cloth it is..there was no description when i bought it, only price tag. But it is alot heavier than normal shirting cottons, and it doesn't crease easily, and a little bit strecthy too. It should be some sort of cotton blend, lol.
kotmj
post Apr 29 2010, 10:33 PM

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So I had MBT3 in KL make up two shirts for me. He quoted me RM70 last week, but corrected himself to RM80/shirt today. Must be the weather. This is for labour only.

3" cutaway collar with removable stays, French seams, double button on cuffs, MOPs everywhere, slightly looser overall than Ron's.

We talked about Ah Loke's pricing compared to his on everything from suits to trousers to shirts. After a while, he and his wife were trying to guess my salary. Unbelievable.

French seam - pau kuat
malutapimau
post Apr 30 2010, 11:52 AM

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are the shirts striped / checked patterns?
kotmj
post Apr 30 2010, 01:22 PM

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pale blue and pale pink solids. cheep single ply 100% cotton kamdar and nagoya stuff.
malutapimau
post Apr 30 2010, 03:25 PM

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nice selection of fabrics,,,are the collars / cuffs also non-fused this time?

-------

heres the collar underside of my old non-fused shirt

user posted image

both collar & cuffs are made of cotton interlining, collar is soft----maybe too soft to stand nicely without a tie

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as comparison, the other shirt is my experimental non-fused shirt with a local tailor

user posted image

interlining is polyester,,,,,it produces plasticky sound when flip flapped

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i hate polyester lining,,, my next non-fused shirt will use cotton interlining,,,i hope to find them of various thickness locally

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Apr 30 2010, 03:31 PM
kotmj
post Apr 30 2010, 04:27 PM

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I think the poly interlining you bought is waistband interlining.

I have two casual buttondowns to be made in linen and I will have the tailor use self-fabric as interlining, i.e. 3 layers of linen altogether in the collar and cuffs. This allows me to use ISTT, who charges only RM50/shirt compared to MBT3 who charges RM80.

MBT3 machine fuses his shirts.

Nice pictures, I wish I had a camera like yours.
bloke1
post Apr 30 2010, 04:40 PM

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All rumpled up for the sprezz.



This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 30 2010, 04:49 PM
malutapimau
post Apr 30 2010, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 30 2010, 04:27 PM)
I think the poly interlining you bought is waistband interlining.

I have two casual buttondowns to be made in linen and I will have the tailor use self-fabric as interlining, i.e. 3 layers of linen altogether in the collar and cuffs. This allows me to use ISTT, who charges only RM50/shirt compared to MBT3 who charges RM80.

MBT3 machine fuses his shirts.

Nice pictures, I wish I had a camera like yours.
*
i bought the lining fr a tailor in perak when balik kg-----i was told its meant for shirts so i grabbed 1/2 mtr of them,,,,,i discovered then that non-fused shirts are still the norms and made by tailors outside of kl-----the waistband lining is another thing at the shop,,,,thicker, harder but same poly material

i havent see any non-fused cotton lining at any haberdashers,,,,i should look harder

----

the selffabric idea is a very good idea,,,,i remembered a tailor proposed this----2-layer of self-fabric for collar / cuffs but with an extra cost
keep us informed of the result

//ot---camera is old, a 3year old fuji, thx

QUOTE(bloke1 @ Apr 30 2010, 04:40 PM)
All rumpled up for the sprezz.
*
is that the look to get people excited? because ive couple of shirts with the look,,,,all this while im trying to get rid of it---emmmmmm

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Apr 30 2010, 05:04 PM
kotmj
post Apr 30 2010, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Apr 30 2010, 04:40 PM)
All rumpled up for the sprezz.
*
Nice buttonholes. Few tailors make them so well-bound. KH certainly doesn't.

I'm wearing KH's shirt today and each time I see myself in a reflection I like how the shirt looks. Blousy, yes, but good blousy.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 30 2010, 06:13 PM
superfluous
post Apr 30 2010, 11:11 PM

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QUOTE(crapoccur @ Apr 28 2010, 05:07 PM)
The shirt is very fitted as you can see..its not the tailors fault, i specifically asked for this fit.

[attachmentid=1551230]

[attachmentid=1551233]

[attachmentid=1551234]

As requested by loke, it doesn't have marks on the stitching.
[attachmentid=1551235]
*
like the fittings. too bad i cant wear such fitted shirts, as i need room around armpits, else they perspire 'vigorously'. where did you get this done in melaka? and how much is it? mind PM me?

bloke1
post May 1 2010, 01:08 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 30 2010, 06:11 PM)
Nice buttonholes. Few tailors make them so well-bound. KH certainly doesn't.

I'm wearing KH's shirt today and each time I see myself in a reflection I like how the shirt looks. Blousy, yes, but good blousy.
*
You haven't show us the fit.
crapoccur
post May 1 2010, 01:12 AM

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Hm, I think if you add say 1 - 1.5 inches around the armholes it still wouldn't be noticeable.
I did it here
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

kotmj
post May 1 2010, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(crapoccur @ May 1 2010, 01:12 AM)
Hm, I think if you add say 1 - 1.5 inches around the armholes it still wouldn't be noticeable.
I did it here
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Your tailor is expensive man. Does he do fusing with a machine or with an iron?


Added on May 1, 2010, 11:54 amOh yeah, I found another source of shell buttons. Lower quality, but a quarter the price. I also asked a haberdasher where I can find the most buttons in KL, and he named the biggest haberfdasher in KL.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 1 2010, 11:54 AM
crapoccur
post May 1 2010, 03:42 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 1 2010, 11:51 AM)
Your tailor is expensive man. Does he do fusing with a machine or with an iron?
*
I don't know..what's the diff between the two methods?
kotmj
post May 1 2010, 09:39 PM

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The difference is complicated.
kotmj
post May 2 2010, 10:57 AM

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Calvin, how is a non-fused collar different in construction from a fused one?

Is it the same save for the interlining? Or is it sewn differently?
bloke1
post May 2 2010, 01:21 PM

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Almost no difference. Interlining is sewn along the edges.
kotmj
post May 2 2010, 02:16 PM

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Great. I thought there was a dark art to making them lost to KL tailors. Like full canvassing.

I am wearing my linen trousers post alteration and they are just fantastic. There is something very right about linen, very natural. Like we were evolved to wear it.

When I collected the trousers from ISTT, I brought along my linen jacket to show him. You should have seen the expression on his face! It was like the jacket was so bright, he could only look at it by squinting. I asked him if it was good, and he nodded, but tried to find fault with it. The best he could do was "kam chau geh".
bloke1
post May 2 2010, 02:21 PM

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Dayum, I want a pair of linen trousers!

I thought you're meeting up with gshen?

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