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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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kotmj
post Dec 12 2009, 06:03 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Dec 12 2009, 12:19 PM)
Update:

Just got back from MysteryBespokeTailor. New odd pants made with cotton/poly mix herringbone. Details: 1.5" cuffs, 2.5" extended double hook, flat-front, side button tabs, slanted pockets, yadda yadda.
*
doh.gif What colour?

BTW I picked up a light blue shirt from AL today. RM 150. Heads and shoulders above Chicago Tailor in both cut and finishing, though I am not sure how good it is compared to the better tailors. I'm very happy with it. It's easily the best-fitting the shirt I own. Stitching is as fine as it gets (I imagine), buttonholes are also very densely stitched, etc. I can find no fault with it.
kotmj
post Dec 12 2009, 06:10 PM

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pics

Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image


Added on December 12, 2009, 6:14 pmThe fabric is not his best. His best light blue Swiss cotton costs RM200/shirt, but I wasn't willing to sink that kind of money before finding out if he was any good first.


Added on December 12, 2009, 6:15 pmI did not give him any direction. I basically said "make me a shirt out of this".

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 12 2009, 06:15 PM
calvinloke
post Dec 12 2009, 08:14 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 12 2009, 06:03 PM)
doh.gif What colour?

BTW I picked up a light blue shirt from AL today. RM 150. Heads and shoulders above Chicago Tailor in both cut and finishing, though I am not sure how good it is compared to the better tailors. I'm very happy with it. It's easily the best-fitting the shirt I own. Stitching is as fine as it gets (I imagine), buttonholes are also very densely stitched, etc. I can find no fault with it.
*
It's in medium gray.

Does the shirt comes with removable collar stays? Fused or stitched collars?
kotmj
post Dec 12 2009, 10:04 PM

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As always, fused. This type of collar (with tabs) has no collar stays. The shirts Ah Loke himself wears have non-removable stays. (Though I'm sure I can request for them.) What's the benefit of removable stays? After a while I lose all the little pieces.


Added on December 12, 2009, 10:26 pmThere is a German-language site for men's style called Stilmagazin. Each week, they publish one "Outfit of the Week" from submissions by its readers. This year's winner for best submission is this:

user posted image

The runner up is an outfit I have posted once on this forum (though I didn't know it would be a runner-up then) but much larger:

user posted image

Every time I see this pic I get pangs for a navy DB. The guy in the picture (known on SF as Sterling Gillette) is also a prolific contributor of articles to the site (but they are in German), and this past week I have translated two of his articles "The Navy Suit" and "The Light Blue Shirt" into English. They are part of a larger series of articles called "Building Blocks of a Lasting Wardrobe". He told me yesterday he will get them published.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 12 2009, 10:27 PM
calvinloke
post Dec 12 2009, 10:41 PM

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I just keep a pair for all my shirts. Though I hardly wear them, I find shirts with non-removable stays leave imprint marks after some time, thanks to laundering and ironing. Not to mention curling up.
TSjind86
post Dec 14 2009, 01:14 AM

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guys, hows the classic way to write a monogram on my shirt?
leyley
post Dec 14 2009, 10:38 PM

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Any good place I can find a classy male suit outlet other than KLCC?
kotmj
post Dec 14 2009, 11:44 PM

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QUOTE(leyley @ Dec 14 2009, 10:38 PM)
Any good place I can find a classy male suit outlet other than KLCC?
*
Pavillion
netmatrix
post Dec 15 2009, 10:02 AM

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That was then.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Leg2KaDkOqU&feature=channel
kotmj
post Dec 15 2009, 08:34 PM

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The men in the film look awful.


Added on December 15, 2009, 9:49 pmcalvinloke: A Henry Poole coat with a second button that does not line up with the pocket welts and whose quarters only start opening after the second button. Also, the waist pockets are ever so mildly slanted.

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 15 2009, 09:52 PM
calvinloke
post Dec 15 2009, 10:02 PM

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Pocket seems too high, methinks. Or maybe a shorter jacket length works better?

This post has been edited by calvinloke: Dec 15 2009, 10:06 PM
kotmj
post Dec 15 2009, 10:06 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Dec 15 2009, 10:02 PM)
Pocket seems too high, methinks. Or maybe a shorter jacket length?
*
Blasphemy! How dare you question Henry Poole?
kotmj
post Dec 15 2009, 10:12 PM

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Oh wait, I found a picture of a particularly beautiful POW tie the other day.

Attached Image
calvinloke
post Dec 15 2009, 10:15 PM

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Holy cow! Not again! The hunt is officially on!

And I don't care even if it's 100% polyester!

This post has been edited by calvinloke: Dec 15 2009, 10:19 PM
kotmj
post Dec 15 2009, 10:18 PM

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Kent Wang's not the same. Di Montezemolo's is prob. made of 100% cashmere (it's matt and wooly) whereas Kent Wang's is 100% silk.
calvinloke
post Dec 15 2009, 10:22 PM

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Hmm.. Maybe I'll have it made from a POW suiting fabric. Let's see...
kotmj
post Dec 15 2009, 10:32 PM

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The one above is a multiple-fold tie. The giveaway is the way the fabric softly folds around the edges of the blade, unlike the usual ones which appear ironed and flat. I don't think a normal POW will look quite as luxurious.

Look at the difference between silk

user posted image

or this (Drakes)

user posted image

and wool (+10% cashmere)

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 15 2009, 10:54 PM
C-Note
post Dec 17 2009, 12:51 AM

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hey guys,
recently i see people wearing some scarf-tie kinda thing in suits instead of the orthodox tie. Looks pretty cool. guys i'm talking about. Its one whole piece of cloth that looks surprisingly trendy and neat.
calvinloke
post Dec 17 2009, 01:00 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 15 2009, 10:32 PM)
The one above is a multiple-fold tie. The giveaway is the way the fabric softly folds around the edges of the blade, unlike the usual ones which appear ironed and flat. I don't think a normal POW will look quite as luxurious.

Look at the difference between silk
I'll take both.
Axel
post Dec 18 2009, 12:18 AM

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what do u guys think abt this?
white shirt + striped vest(mostly black) + slacks ?
i wont be wearing a tie,im gonna start teaching at this tuition centre soon and i need to keep it formal
however,i feel like one of my white shirts are abit too plain so i thought i wanted to pair it up with a vest to make it look better yawn.gif

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