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 The Suiting Thread V1, Suit/Tuxedo/Sportcoat/Blazer

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kotmj
post Dec 21 2009, 10:59 PM

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Don't be shy. We're all males.


Added on December 21, 2009, 11:04 pm
QUOTE(jind86 @ Dec 21 2009, 10:52 PM)
so you gonna go all mohair from now eh =D
*
Malaysian tailors, as usual, get it all wrong. Mohair is the real fresco.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=33493

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 21 2009, 11:04 PM
calvinloke
post Dec 21 2009, 11:04 PM

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Inner waistband closure is particularly useful when taking a leak. Without closing the inner buttons on an extended waistband, the inner flap would probably slide down the moment you start digging your weener out. Go try.

I don't feel comfortable with rubber around my waist.
kotmj
post Dec 21 2009, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Dec 21 2009, 11:04 PM)
Inner waistband closure is particularly useful when taking a leak. Without closing the inner buttons on an extended waistband, the inner flap would probably slide down the moment you start digging your weener out. Go try.

I don't feel comfortable with rubber around my waist.
*
Don't get what you mean with first paragraph. I pee successfully while wearing all manner of trousers.

You don't feel the rubber. You feel Super 100s 2X2 long staple cotton.
calvinloke
post Dec 21 2009, 11:22 PM

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Perhaps you have a belt on? Note that this only happens on extended waistband. Never mind on that. I needed extra security since I'm belt-less all the time.

This post has been edited by calvinloke: Dec 21 2009, 11:52 PM
kotmj
post Dec 21 2009, 11:44 PM

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Attached Image

Attached Image

Haboutai silk lining

Attached Image


Added on December 21, 2009, 11:48 pmPhuck. I can't believe I just posted macro pics of a PAIR OF TROUSERS on the internet. I need to get a life.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 21 2009, 11:48 PM
calvinloke
post Dec 21 2009, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 21 2009, 11:44 PM)
Attached Image
Go gentle and easy on the buttonhole, young master.

BTW, I don't get why most tailors love to sew a pathetic strip of fabric around the waistband. Even tackier when it says 'Specially Tailored/Made' tongue.gif For my latest pair, I warned them not to.

This post has been edited by calvinloke: Dec 22 2009, 12:08 AM
kotmj
post Dec 22 2009, 12:16 AM

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QUOTE(calvinloke @ Dec 21 2009, 11:55 PM)
Go gentle and easy on the buttonhole, young master.

BTW, I don't get why most tailors love to sew a pathetic strip of fabric around the waistband. Even tackier when it says 'Specially Tailored/Made'  tongue.gif For my latest pair, I warned them not to.
*
Mine says "Specially Ordered". Keeps the shirt in. Helps it stay up on the waist, not down at the hips. The Great Deceased Tailor used them too, though his isn't rubber but a rough piece of machine-embroidered tape with the name of his shop on it. GDT is never wrong.


Added on December 22, 2009, 12:27 amBTW, my next pair of trousers will be drapey and cut fully. No more slim cut. More like those Apparel Arts plates. Here's the tentative configuration for my next suit which I came up with in the office today.

Configuration

Exactly like Silver Cross suit, except:

0.5 inch higher armholes
3/8ths of an inch extended shoulder
2 inch vent overlaps
sleeves rotated backwards
buttonholes to be finished by someone else
lapel notch like in first suit
swappable buttons
a dart on underside of gorge
fully canvassed

trousers cut fully
lower fork
forward pleats
tapering towards shoe
1.5 inch cuffs
must hang immaculately

backless unlined waistcoat with welted pockets

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 22 2009, 12:27 AM
calvinloke
post Dec 22 2009, 12:32 AM

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You need to learn the military tuck.

Here's mine on a previous acquisition.

user posted image

Just like GDT, machine-embroidered tape minus the publicity.


QUOTE
backless unlined waistcoat with welted pockets


You jumped on the band wagon?

This post has been edited by calvinloke: Dec 22 2009, 12:35 AM
kotmj
post Dec 22 2009, 10:00 PM

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I've always wanted a backless unlined waistcoat.


Added on December 22, 2009, 10:01 pmWhat's wrong with your navy cloth? I though you're having that made up.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 22 2009, 10:01 PM
calvinloke
post Dec 22 2009, 10:17 PM

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I'm still thinking I will grow bigger. I might wait till it becomes a vintage piece.
kotmj
post Dec 22 2009, 11:00 PM

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You're not using it because it's too big a piece?

Just found this pic. Sometimes even I forget how beautiful a suit is compared to others.

user posted image
calvinloke
post Dec 22 2009, 11:15 PM

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Don't wanna grow out of my suit.

Who are those dictators?
kotmj
post Dec 22 2009, 11:27 PM

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Only one is a dictator. The other two were voted into office.


Added on December 22, 2009, 11:35 pmThe pic illustrates the advantage of the structure in coats. Stalin and Churchill are wearing shirt-like garments with no structure; Truman has a very well-fitting DB on. Look at the difference.


This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 25 2009, 12:47 AM
kotmj
post Dec 25 2009, 12:46 AM

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So I was talking to my parents who came visiting about my suits, AL, and about GDT. It turns out that the tailor I was about to go to in my hometown (before I discovered AL) used to work for GDT. GDT himself apprenticed in Singapore before returning to his hometown in his twenties to start his own shop.

I seriously need to talk to this tailor in my hometown. This guy worked under GDT for many years before setting up his own shingle. Then he gave up his shop to work from home. I'm hoping he can do me a fully canvassed jacket in GDT quality for under 1K.


Added on December 25, 2009, 2:57 amAwesome grey pinstripe suit. Everything a suit should be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eDwRxS4X4s

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 25 2009, 02:57 AM
redken
post Dec 27 2009, 10:46 AM

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Hi everyone, i am looking to buy myself my first suit.

My build is only 165 cm and 55kg in weight. Really small skinny.

Thing is i want to get a suit done in 4 days because i really want to make an impression for this occasion.Is it possible?

If i buy off the rack, is it possible to get a fit? I see alot of people recommending Zara and Topman.

Please help icon_question.gif


nick210214
post Dec 27 2009, 11:38 AM

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Hi guys

Just like to share this is the kind of suit I'm looking out for, I wonder whether it is achievable by local tailors. Not that I doubt their skills.

Basically, keeping it V-shape and tight, that's what I demand.

user posted image

Good Sunday ahead chaps.
kotmj
post Dec 27 2009, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(redken @ Dec 27 2009, 10:46 AM)
Hi everyone, i am looking to buy myself my first suit.

My build is only 165 cm and 55kg in weight. Really small skinny.

Thing is i want to get a suit done in 4 days because i really want to make an impression for this occasion.Is it possible?

If i buy off the rack, is it possible to get a fit? I see alot of people recommending Zara and Topman.

Please help  icon_question.gif
*
Try Domanchi in Pavillion. They have your size.
redken
post Dec 27 2009, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 27 2009, 12:30 PM)
Try Domanchi in Pavillion. They have your size.
*
Thanks a bunch. notworthy.gif
attacusatlas
post Dec 28 2009, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(redken @ Dec 27 2009, 10:46 AM)
Hi everyone, i am looking to buy myself my first suit.

My build is only 165 cm and 55kg in weight. Really small skinny.

Thing is i want to get a suit done in 4 days because i really want to make an impression for this occasion.Is it possible?

If i buy off the rack, is it possible to get a fit? I see alot of people recommending Zara and Topman.

Please help  icon_question.gif
*
You may try Topman, look for skinny fit, size 36. It should fit you snugly. Size 34 will be too tight for you.

Good news is Topman is having sales now. You may find a bargain there.
redken
post Dec 28 2009, 11:04 PM

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QUOTE(attacusatlas @ Dec 28 2009, 11:59 AM)
You may try Topman, look for skinny fit, size 36. It should fit you snugly. Size 34 will be too tight for you.

Good news is Topman is having sales now. You may find a bargain there.
*
Thanks alot. Size 36 ka. Ok. Hope to own a good suit soon rclxms.gif

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