Ah..its always normal proceedure for me to check properly before paying. I would hate going there just to get a replacement. BTW, almost every shop I've been would allow you the most inaccurate or malfunctioning meter for your checking. Cheh!. Bring my own and trust it!

ok, you don't trust them or their meters!
I'll make a note on that!

A Malaysian made mentality in business.......untung first customer later...

How to trust lah?. The meters (referring to analog ones) are so inaccurate or may not deflect to full scale (due to weak batteries). You go try and you tell me. Those meters are there perhaps for formality.

I both all these pots from Jln Landak. 3 pots from RE, only 1 works. 1 from Nixie and doesn't last..ALPS is here in Malaysia but not with me

I will not get any box so soon as I have another project (CD63) that need to finish up. Therefore look is quite important when the amp is still naked. I will be bring this amp to test with my client (also hifi kaki) setup in Penang next month and I sure don't want to scare him away with all those resistor sticking out On SQ, I had my friend tested Y.C. T-Amp many weeks ago (thanks Y.C.) and he finally got 1 for himself. He is a very satisfied man now that he find our Malaysian singer Nora much livelier.

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Added on November 28, 2008, 11:11 pmGabanyayaya, instead of multimeter, we should bring bro jazzy to buy parts from JP/JL(andak)
I think for my case, it is quite difficult to measure with an analog multimeter. 50K pot and if there is a slight few hundred ohm diff, analog multimeter might not be able to detect it. The only DMM I got is Rapport and I sure won't bring it there as it will make me look like meter reading man from TNB

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Added on November 28, 2008, 11:15 pmAs mentioned before, the quality is so much diff during my college days...I wouldn't mind paying extra if the quality is good. Hope Farnell was like last time where to stock the parts locally.

This post has been edited by cyl1000: Nov 28 2008, 11:15 PM

Do they really still use those analogue multimeter(sunwa)?
Ok, maybe tomorrow I'll give it a shot! What the heck, just for fun!

cyl1000 you don't know yet...!!!! jazzy is a tour guide to JP...just hop-in to his bus and he'll be showing you site seeing all shops which sells 'jewels' in JP

jazzy i hope the pot you bought for me is A-OK

gabanyayaya,
I have a bunch of pots in my spares box.. no need to buy any ler..
What value are you looking for? 50K? 100K?

100k...maybe....hope the quality for that last.....

I have several.. last bought from NIXIE at RM4.50 each! Now two has been used, one for Junior's T-Amp(buffered), one in my buffer pre-amp.. so far so good!

i do not have volume pot now...since most of the time i control it via the soundcard level.

is it a must to have a physical volume pot for the t amp?

im going to order a bunch of 0.1uF 5% film cap to replace the SMDs

CYL, you sure are unlucky or been extremely critical of JP volume pots. Lai and I also bought ours from RE Spares but there is no problem so far. You already changed the input and power buffer caps? What caps did you opt for? How's the SQ so far?

If you feel the presence of discreet resistors and caps would make your T-amp board look ugly, you could instead opt for better grade SMDs from Vishay or others which are available at Farnell. Bsl is right that changing SMDs to discreet components would dirty up the sound and increase distortion figures. I would not be worried with that myself as that is exactly my aim here. Most critics of T-amp find it too clean-sounding and some of us here do know that absolute accuracy, neutrality and sounding clean could not be equated with musicality and ultimate music enjoyment. Tonal colour is important and should music lovers worry too much about dirty sound and distortion figures, many of them would not have ventured into "valves and vinyl".

I am happy your friend got himself a T-amp too. One more guy converted, who is next?




This post has been edited by Y.C.: Nov 29 2008, 12:47 AM

No physical pot necessary. Your soundcard level control would be sufficient.

Where are you ordering those caps?

either farnell or RS...

now the option is... to replace it with SMD or typical film ones

Now, that is your call!

Initially the pot from Nixie is ok but after sometime, the problem start. I've even tried a little contact cleaner (I thought my environment is very dirty ) but still the same...Like I say before, no need DMM, just bring you along

Again,
It's also 'luck' even with parts from NIXIE!
Even at NIXIE they have 'real' stuffs and 'cheaper' stuffs of the same brand.. use the sentence, 'saya mau original punya!'.

A story.
I bought a relay from NIXIE. Went home tested it, it was great. The following week I went again to get another one bringing in the sample. Now the price is RM2 higher! I asked why, the guy said 'this is original'. WTF? I bought a 'not-ori' last week? Comparing physically the two items to my surprised, the 'not-ori' one looks better with better finish. Since I already bought a 'non-ori' one, I might as well bought another one!

What's intriguing is that both the stuffs sits in the same tray! I asked the guy how he knows which is the ori ones.. he just laugh!
If he messed up, I got the real one at 'non-ori' price!

Not a peace of mind, huh?

Actually the price I'm paying for JP/JL pots is too good to complain but when the pots keep failing, just imagine the frustration...though I'm unlucky with the ports but I'm lucky that I found T-amp

For the caps, I've use the recommended MKT1822 and Panasonic FC 470uF. The SQ, not really run in yet and it is left idle as the L+R channel is not balance now.

For discrete upgrade, can you guys comment more on its sonic improvement? How much different does it make with SMD..Do you like it with discrete? Since its picking up noise, the result would be different for each of us...if it is not to our liking, hard to revert back unless spend another RM55 and time to run in the T-amp again...

cyl100,
There's some postings in V1 with regards to SQ of the SMD replacements( I think). I did it and there's looking back. BTW I am still using the F-ELNA for my input caps. So far they have been good!
Will wait if they're gonna wear out, hope not! I have other caps standing by in position..

i would choose SMD components at the same value and grade with the replacement ones, although is much cheaper, but the soldering skill required for soldering SMD is real KUNG FU...

or maybe in the end i need to get a professional soldering station