sorry guys for the late update, been away for few days

yes it can drive your 6x9, as in how loud i have no idea. a 12v direct with an on\off switch is enough, if you tot off using the rem+, a relay can be use, REM+ have enough power to trigger a relay, tht was wat i did with my friend car amp but watch out for aeroplane sound

yo bro, thanks for the reply... i doubt any aeroplane sound would occur as long as you have proper grounding back to battery ' - ' terminal.

well, if im not mistaken, the battery voltage would fluctuate due to inconsistent load? (A/C, headlights , etc...) do we need to construct a voltage regulator for it? say LM7812 equivalent..?

if the t amp project in car is successful, might get another 2 units to power up the components. all using Pre-out, ditch the build in amp of HU. Forget about spending few hundred bucks on fancy car amps..

mind share the relay circuit? coz its kinda hard for me to goggle for right one..

No relay circuit necessary. Just buy the 12V relay for the car and wire accordingly. 5 bucks only I think..

Anyway bought two 50K pot from NIXIE today.. we'll see how long will it lasts! RM2.50 ea.

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 29 2008, 10:56 PM

Been a while since I done something to my T-Amp. I use Senior discreet amp, now the soundstage is very wide and unbelievably deep, before this everything is in your face, like if you hear artists performs on stage, all the instruments is at the same level as the singer, now everything sits where it supposed to be, and even layers of vocal is prominent, my favorite artists love to use her whisper vocal behind her singing vocal, now I can hear that without any trouble

Another mod I done is using separate power from my PC PSU because when I game, I hear some noise because of my graphics card emit strange high frequency noise to the power line (its normal, as I read around, some components on graphics card emit that, forgot what it is called), I found one old 450W PSU lying around, I open it up, replaced few capacitor with higher quality and jumpstart it to power T-Amp. 15Amps of current available to the T-Amp only. I don't know if that sufficient enough to give boom to it Because the load is so low, I run it totally passive. How does it sounds? Wonderful

It's s'wonderful!

I tried swap the T amp power supply from the Teletron 12V 3A unregulated to Generic PC PSU (i suppose this is also another SMPS as well) since i heard there is a lot of good response using SMPS.

part of the reason also i'm worried that constant 16V supply (measured with DMM) from the teletron might kill the T amp someday.

however, much to my surprise, the t amp DOES NOT LIKE PC PSU.

when i switch on, there is 'noise' yes noise like you heard when your radio reception is bad.. even w/o playing any songs..

quicky disconnect it, tried with few other PSU like Enlight, Acbel... same result...

Unregulated PSU's voltage is always higher when measured with no loads...

My Junior is using a PC PSU.. no big deal.. what happened to your T-Amp?

good morning bro jazzy...

i just did some minor mod to my teletron unregulated..

and well the measured 16V is obtained when the t amp is connected to the supply, with music playing..


oh about the mod...

i paralleled one of this cap at the output of the power supply, to my delight, there is much improvement in term of sonics.

more depth, warm vocal...


i may plan to have 3 t-amps with different mod level (and a comparison of course)

1: high end, putting the best replacement component for the amp, with primary objective of maximizing the SQ. (Boutique input caps 2-3% tol, tighther tolerance components, replace almost all the components on board, left out only the TA2024 itself) of course the parts are the best that i can possibly afford.

2. Mid range: the one i have now ... Vishay MKT1813 input, SMD caps replacement with polyester caps (i've ordered 50 pcs of KEMET 0.1uF polyester 5% from farnell....dirt cheap, 1% Metal Film resistors. i have lots of 104 Mylar caps to replace..

3. Base Line: almost stock, maybe just remove the polarized 1uF or replace with anything i can salvage.


all 3 will feed by same power supply, driving same speakers

what do you think

This post has been edited by Monkey King: Nov 30 2008, 08:22 AM

Morning Monkey King!
Big plans there! I'd say its a good learning experience modding the T-Amps, tuning/tweaking and how each one of the mods affect the sound output. Some very significant, some barely. You won't know until you do it hands on!
Keep us posted. Good luck and have fun!

aha yeah actually i'm planning to get few more t amps, for car, and maybe a good idea for father's day present too... (ready built of course)

since tripath no longer produce any of these chip, i do worrythis t amp might extinct like black gates caps someday...

You better get them while they're available!

But there are other amps around.
The TA2024 was raved for the 'best bang per buck' it presents..

So little money, so much 'sound'...

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 30 2008, 08:54 AM

ermm make me wanna built one T-amp ...
can this T-amp feed with 14v DC .... ?

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Added on November 30, 2008, 2:28 pmsuggess not to use solid state PSU

This post has been edited by abel: Nov 30 2008, 02:28 PM

Back on the PSU requirement, since the unit is SUPPOSEDLY ran on 8xAA battery, power input shuld be that high at output power of 10W into 8ohm. Say getting a 15V out tranny regulated to 12V, at most 30VA is good enough eh? Iq is too little to even bother, this shud lead to proper operation of the chip?

The datasheet isnt of much help..

However, a 1A 12V dc jack shud be able to run it eh? Got my new *baby* liao..

IIRC maximum you can go is 13.8V. If you use 14V maybe it can run, but it won't last long

About the 'not using solid state PSU', please elaborate

means not using computer PSU .... using those AC transformer than put rectified to convert to DC

This post has been edited by abel: Nov 30 2008, 02:47 PM

Any advantages of doing so?

normally when u used motor or Switching PSU , its becomes distorted

SMPS is switching PSU!
The T-Amp works well with switching PSU, linear or even battery! (SLA)..
It is not your normal chip amp. Its a Class T and/or D... normal believe/school of thoughts about SMPS being 'dirty' does not apply here...

ijan, a 12V 1A should suffice but higher is 'better' I am using a 4.2A at 13.6VDC

This post has been edited by jazzy939: Nov 30 2008, 06:24 PM

ohhh i dunno mah hehehe
thanks for the information

This post has been edited by abel: Nov 30 2008, 10:49 PM

My 2nd unit of T-amp (with Vishay MKT1822 2.2uF 100V and Panasonic FM 470uF 25V caps) + JP’s Alpha 50K volume pot + computer-notebook-style 12V DC 2.5A SMPS are currently with a very close friend in his office. He uses it over his Cyrus 1 amp driving a pair of Celestion 3 and loves the T-amp instantly. His words: “Sound from your tiny amp is excellent. It’s fast and transparent. My Cyrus 1 sounds slower and less transparent by comparison.” He, however, acknowledges impact of bass of the T-amp is light to which I recommend a 12V DC 7Ah Hitachi battery as he is a firm believer in battery power.

I shall need to buy another new board from Xtorm to build an unit of T-amp for my friend.