i vote for edifier to bring in the S330!!! quite smart also edifier sell the the digital version in malaysia...make so much profit =.-

EOL? no more producing? why? what model is replacing it??? o.o didnt know that

hi edifier...why does my m3400 subwoofer feel like it wana explode when i turn up the volume on tight bass songs? like the woofer produce some crunchy sound

...and the blue colour light on the remote control and front of woofer become dimmer when the bass hits lik boom boom boom then the light will (dim dim dim). Is it underpower?

Cos even when i play mariah carey songs slightly loud the woofer seems like it cannot take it, dont say other genre like hip hop, the woofer wana explode lik that!

any way to improve or solve this problem?

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Mar 28 2009, 12:59 AM

ok, thanks for advice, in that case i'll try to reposition the speaker to get better bass respond so that i can lower the bass volume knob... i using modded audigy card and drivers...more clarity ; ) okay i tried with my ipod shuffle and a laptop, it still crunches, but it doesnt crunch that bad. i think its due to my soundcard the bass abit too tight or hard hitting... anyways i'll try to reposition woofer and do some rearrangment. Does m3300, c3, s2.1 woofer crunch too when loud? i cant test it in shop cos alot outside noise, make it hard to hear the crunchy noise...

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Mar 30 2009, 02:51 PM

overbright can mean too clear of sharp, the higher frequencies too much detail until it causes fatigue and covers the lower range

Hey guys i just noticed my Edifier M3400 runs very hot, the back plate especially. Even at moderate volumes. If i wet my fingers and put a dot at the back of the woofer, the dot of water evaporates in just a few seconds. Will the heat effect the lifetime of the unit? Can i install a heat sink using thermal glue (stick the heat sink to the back plate of the woofer?)

This post has been edited by andrew9292: May 10 2009, 01:19 PM

thanks for the explaination ; )

my finger only can hold for maximum 3 seconds until my brain tells me : ITS HOT!

there is not a specific amount of time u need to burn in, i usually use pink noinse and burn in with the following procedure (i start early morning,):

1. Burn in Noise - Very soft for 1st 2hours (2hr)
2. 2nd-3rd hour i'll play various genre of song at that burn in volume at (1) (1hour total)
3. Rest 1 hour (1hour total)
^ Repeat 1 more time (total 4hour x 2 = 8 hour) ^ then

day2
1b. Burn in Noise - Soft for 2 hours (2hr total)
2b. 2nd-3rd hour play various genre at burn in volume at (1b) (1hr total)
3b. Rest 1 hour(1hr total)
^ Repeat 2 more time (total 4hour x 3 = 12 hour) ^ then

day3
1c. Burn in Noise - Normal listening volume (just nice) 3 hours full (3hr ttl)
2c. Play music at slightly lower than normal volume for 1 hour (1hr ttl)
3c. Rest for 1hr, then repeat 2c at normal volume. (2hr ttl)
(no more repeats.) ( total 6 hour)

total process 26 hours including rest time, total playing hours: 20 hours (u can play songs anytime after the procedures, making the playing time longer, but make sure its at soft volume)

After that process, u should be enjoying nice music from low volume to normal volume. However, since your speaker is new, the speaker suspension, magnet, magnet coli, and electronices are all new, it is recommended that you do not blast your speaker the first 3st weeks. Even if u try to on loud, u will find the speaker struggling to keep its tone, or the bass might be "crunchy" (feels like the woofer reach its maximum and bang it's housing)


After step 3c above, you shoud increase the volume day by day(little by little), everytime your play your songs.

For example:

Day 1
Play at NORMAL volume for 1 hour
Play at LOUDER THAN NORMAL for 1 hour
Back to normal for 1 hour
(repeat if u playing again throughout the day)

Next day 2

Play at Normal for 1 hour
Play slightly louder than Yesterday's "louder than normal: for 1 hour
back to yesterday's louder than normal.
(repeat if u playing again throughout the day)

Day 3

Normal
louder than yesterday step 2 volume
back to yesterday step 2 volume
(repeat if u playing again throughout the day)

and so on. You will find that in the long run you can on your speakers at ANY volume without losing it's tone (sound become too sharp or too thin, bass too heavy etc etc) i find that using this method on all my speakers and headphones makes the vocal very realistic and treble very "lively" while keeping the tone of the bass the same at all volumes and good stereo-spacing across all volumes.

this just my method and its what i have been doing, dont flame me if u dont believe in it ;p peace

This post has been edited by andrew9292: May 15 2009, 07:01 PM

It's just like having a new car, u need to break-in normally for the 1st 1000km, drive it slow, use thicker oil so that the piston rings can settle down and all the moving parts can mesh together and...get used to moving? ahaha. same concept here...its a very controversial issue, some people belive in it and some people dont. But your speaker is a great speaker, without burn in properly it will sound nice, with burn in, nicer ; ) acutally once u did the burn in part for the first 20 hour, u can use it like normal already, just dont blast it for the 1st two weeks you use it and it shall be ok...

the link below is edifier speaker tool, dont know wether xk2 gave u this link or not, but this software is form edifier itself. u can control the burn in time with this software ranging from 1 to 6 hours, and also the intensity of the signal..but leave the intensity at default is best (-6dB signal)

http://www.edifier.com/scn2005/support/too...ls.v1.01.en.zip

dont play with the generator tool especially the square wave and triangle wave, i did some research through google and it is say that those type of waves can cause internal wear and tear to the speaker.


also, for everyones knowledge, other stuffs like room temperature, lighting and noise will affect listening experience (based on my experince and observations)

-the quieter the room is, the better (imagine cinema air cond blowing got woosh woosh sound or vibrating sound when u watching movie and u can feel the wind of the air cond, potong steam ryte)
-the dimmer your lights are, the better too (imagine cinema use white fluorocent light when u watch movie or they on the yellow lights, also tak betul ryte) when listen music i like to use dim yellow lights for calm songs.romantic. haha == trance songs off lights la xD
-room temperature around 18-21C is best for music and 16C is best for movies (imagine cinema is hot when u watch movie... == 16C will make you concentrate on the screen and sound more, [and also feel like going to toilet] haha but i find 16C too cold for music with no visual)

This post has been edited by andrew9292: May 16 2009, 01:04 AM

edifier speaker tools use pink noise with opposite phrase, so when burn in u face the 2 speakers directly face to face, phrase cancellation will occur and there will be no noise/very little noise. the reason why i think noise is better is because noise got very wide and constant spectral/stereo imaging and frequency range, so that every frequency will be balanced out which will enhance the "surround" feeling of the speaker, making it provide a very "full" sound. i THINK that is the logic of using noise to burn in. Also, many high end speaker company pre-burn in their speakers before sending them out, so, i just follow them only la xD

This post has been edited by andrew9292: May 16 2009, 01:00 AM

what xk2 means is just put a cloth to cover the sound... not cover it TIGHTLY. it wont damage the driver because the excursion of satellite is very little, unlike a sub woofer, which needs a lot of air and movement to generate sound. So as long as u do not cover the satellite tightly it wont be a problem. OR just place the satallite face to face, about very tiny 2-5mm distance face to face, the sound waves from edifier speaker tools are designed to cancel out each other, so there should be very little altho the driver is producing it. Its called phrase cancellation, for more info u can google it up. Very complex and hard to explain, especially if a person doesn't know much about sound waves...

How old is your s330? new ryte...

Normally new speakers will face inconsistent performance for the 1st week of usage (today bass heavy then tomoro muddy etc etc) its quite normal, all my speakers and IEM go through that process...

thats what i intend to do too, but hard to find cheap caps and opamps in Malaysia, plus need high quality soldering tools and solder for best results... too bad edifier hard wire the satellite otherwise i would put better cables with better EMI rejection...current one so thin, easy subjected to EMI interference, but i did something to remove EMI from the speaker's power chord and audio cable...after that the sound became very dynamic, tighter bass...

the guide is here http://www.techsupportforum.com/hardware-s...-enjoyment.html

This post has been edited by andrew9292: May 17 2009, 12:54 AM

thanks for the link n advice..


this is DIP or SOIC?



I see, I will open the woofer after my exams, next weekend I'm going Jalan Pasar get some stuff. Then shall start modding. This kind of stuff better do stage by stage slowly, without interference. Also because in case the outcome is not something u prefer, its easier and faster to roll back ; ) I'm not so sure about the circuit board also, will have to do some extensive research on the board, what opamps and cable produce what kind of sound signature, what caps have good power filtering etc etc. After exams

DIP, i see. Thanks for the wish, most of my important subjects already passed, so now can relax a bit.

okay, so i get a DIP socket, 62-36-2% eutectic lead and a good sucker! solder sucker i mean ;pp dont think so farrr...

I did some moddings to my sound card yesterday night, i pencil-mod my card and it made alot of difference. There was a slot for a cap in my card that was not used, so i took a pencil and draw a line across the two contacts and went to test it. The sound was much clearer, i guess its more voltage or something, not so sure. I saw many other forums that user that mod sound card, they take out the caps near the opamp and just connect the circut with solder. Some others got decouple the caps (shorting),same thing lah i think. I also did an EMI shield, but it made the sound very warm, which was good on IEMs but not so good on M3400, as M3400 is already a VERY warm sounding speaker...

I'm gonna start off with the sound card first, hope to get it done this weekend, so that next week can start on the speaker. This is my thread on the Soundcard : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1036526

also, any recommendation of op amps that are good to use on the speaker?

AD8620 will be overkill for M3400 i think. Unless u have high clarity speaker like C3 or S330 only will benefit from such high end opamp i think. And also the price....big nono! hahaha

what do u think about AD8066? u making me very hard life now, need to suffer on choosing the right one to pair... but thats the fun of it LM4562, i was told told that that opamp's sound signature is abit u-shaped (stronger on bass and treble) whereas AD8066 is more flat, more on clarity and soundstage with balance bass...

haih looks like i got to tembak an opamp. have u use the opamps u mention before? can describe the sound signature ah?

the stock cap is 100uf 16V, what should i uprade it to?

This post has been edited by andrew9292: May 20 2009, 11:10 PM

I will be getting the AD8066 for now, and Panasonic FM 470uF for power cap on the soundcard... The Nichicon KZ or Blackgate will be for the speaker ;p

What soldering iron u think i should get? now i'm using some China brand 25W solder, i practiced on some old circuit board...its damn hard to melt the solder and the tip was too big...i think i need to get a very sharp tip one for the opamp change, any recommendation? i heard that for opamp soldering need very sharp tip soldering iron with at least 75W.... which is the cheapest yet most effictive? haha



either xonar U1 or xonar D2, x-fi doesnt sound great if its OEM plus not modded. Both the xonar sound quality is better than xfi. Even so, if your sound card is 7-10 years old, any recent soundcard even the x-fi will be much better than your previous one ; ) Also, some Xonars are PCIE slot, if your mobo is doesnt have a PCIE u cant use them...

This post has been edited by andrew9292: May 21 2009, 04:44 PM

monitor speakers are on a different league! they are called monitor speakers for a reasion ;p

also, you will need a good soundcard, amp, cables, room acoustics and listening position for very high detailed monitor speakers

In that case i think the monitors will be better for you, because u want clean sound...I presume that means a flat frequency respond. I have never audition those monitors before, so i cant say anything about the difference in soundstage, vocal presentation etc etc.... Plus u mention that the monitor can use in private studio for recording and stuffs, so in this case the monitors are best value for you and suit your taste. And your soundcard is meant for recording purposes also. If u want to record professionally, u must use good monitors, u cant use speakers like edifier as the sound is "shaped" (Its because most malaysian recording studios have poor monitors and equipment, when u hear the song in the CD, its mix is very unbalanced. For example in the studio, the monitors have poor high frequency response, so the sound engineer increase the high frequency to compensate, which destroys the mix because the treble is actually already quite loud, but due to the poor studio's system, it sounds soft to the engineer) But still over these few years, malaysian made music is starting to sound better ;p

But it's still better if u go and hear both speakers properly first ;p Edifier's sound is quite poisonous when paired with good sound cards xD

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jun 8 2009, 11:14 PM

Yes, sound card makes a HUGE difference. I just sent my Audigy Platinum Ex to XTREME for modifications. Modded the opamp to AD8066 and bypass 1 opamp (my card use 2 opamp for front output), Power capacitor and DSP capacitor to Panasonic FM caps, and a few other capacitor in the signal's path...

At first the sound was okok...i posted review at his thread too early... after 2 days of burn in...the sound seems damn different. I heard that caps need 20-40 hours of Idle-ing and 100 hours of usage to be fully burn in. Opamps not so sure...but i still bombarded it with pink noise... difference is obvious, soundstage widen a lot.

Too bad my M3400 left speaker tweeter softer/spoil than the right speaker...any ideas why and how to fix it? =\ Otherwise i would have modded the opamp and caps on the speaker too.

Haih, why cant those big speaker/soundcard manufacturer order good opamps and capacitors in BULK and use it in their products

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jun 12 2009, 12:17 PM