Hey how u been doing man... Did any mods yet

yeah probably the crossover is having problems, i did not drop the speaker or any physical abuse...wonder i can bring back to edifier service center(if there is one) to fix or not...i guess the driver should be fine... but screw it la now saving up cash to get new speaker ... ETA 2-3months. Currently my sniper aiming at S330, C3 and S530D

I'm more to vocal and instrument clarity and soundstage but bass must be low and tight and smooth ( good QUALITY, QUANTITY not so important, as long enough to give the oomph and support the overall music shall be fine )

Heard that C3 got excellent sound staging, i went audition it also, but bass seems weak (i think because the shop use cheapskate RM60 dvd player to on song ), but the amp is housed inside an amplifier...which I'm quite reluctant to open and mod. But imagine C3 with Black Gates or Rubicon... that will definitely take care of the bass issue man xD

S330 i heard before also, kinda too thick in bass...treble abit too sweet. but i did not audition it extensively lah... S530 never audition before...hmm

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jun 12 2009, 02:09 PM

lower down your volume to 0. If doesnt work, off your speaker.

my 3400 also like that, when i turn off the power at the woofer there, my headphone still got sound, but speaker is no power so cannot on la of cos. I think it's a protection feature by edifier, so that we do not suddenly pull out our headphone then the speaker suddenly blast out sound. So by forcing us to off the speaker, when we pull out the headphone, we need to on back the speaker in order to use the speaker again....

c2 got mute? cool...my m3400 no mute == have to off main power button ==

Yeap - 3.5mm to 3.5mm Stereo Jack.

LOL Did not know monster has 3.5mm-3.5mm

Not sure, I've never seen a 3.5mm monster cable in most AV stores...

Aiyoh don't use EQ mah....spoil the shape of the sound =\ use the speaker control much better, or better, if possible tune your room acoustic to get what u wanna hear...

Yeap, and also putting sound absorbing material on certain areas of the room to absorb unwanted sound. LOL. It's just a suggestion plus it requires alot of budget

Stock cable vs DIY cables that my friend make for me that value about RM 60 make difference already. Monster would pawn those anytime i guess...

that's like asking whether normal toyota car can speed fast or not...

audition for about 3 times already, conclusion...c3 not designed for bass...

hehe. added 3 blue ice heatsinks to get rid of the extreme hot heat from the woofer plate to improve components efficiency inside. noticed the bass is tighter also, because the heat sink strengthens the back plate and reduce unwanted vibrations

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This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 3 2009, 10:49 PM

use double sided tape, those thin yet sticky ones...they're damn effective, but only on blue ice/copper heatsinks, and make sure most area of the base of the heatsink is covered. It will get as hot as the plate used to be if all heat is transferred to the heatsink.

I used an cheapo aluminum heatsink before, the heatsink was just warm only, not all heat was transferred...mayb it even block the heat from escaping loh.

Yes not too much, but the lower the heat, the lower the electrical resistance = more current/signal pass through the IC. If you take a look at those op-amp data sheets and graphs, even 10 degree Celsius increase in temperature will affect the current passing through it by a margin...so yeah, i was using the same principal as that...also it will prolong the life of the chip...

BTW. i think i'm becoming a freak. ahaha.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 4 2009, 12:38 AM

i guess foil tape should be better...but in my condition double sided tape gets the heatsink as hot as the back plate after 1min+ of loud music, so i guess its doing okay loh...

i think he means that the midrange is 4ohm while the tweeter is 8ohm. Generally the higher the ohm, the harder it is for the amp to drive it. so with 8ohm tweeter, the treble will sound softer than the midrange I GUESS. correct my if i'm wrong ;p

also m3400's treble depends a lot on your sound card and source. what sound card u using?

cuz with my old sound card, it sound like no treble at all. with my modded audigy, i can say the sound is near m3300sf (the not so "sharp/bright" m3300), which is a big difference.

m3400's woofer back plate got no heatsink also unlike other edifiers, if you can add some high efficiency heatsinks it will do much better ; )

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 6 2009, 12:06 AM

wah 150 kinda tight loh...add 100 can get m3300sf...excellent clarity, but bass depends on your room's acoustic

i think you forgot, there is one with bad clarity only..only one. edifier m3400

haha of course eddies pawn altecs ; ) but seriously m3400 is quite weak in terms of clarity compare to other edifiers.

If only Edifier could use audiophile grade cables, capacitors and opamps in their S series....

in fact i think that edifier S series could be THX certified as they sound better than most THX certified multimedia speakers. but it's good thing they didnt certify it, lower the cost n use it to improve SQ. nice...

Okay, nice bashing there. I know u're trying to say u are very financially strong and i'm poor and i cant afford when it comes to high end audio. Correct.

Clearly u don't know what you are talking about. Most edifiers use ST4558 opamps, They could use something like the famous AD8066 or LM4562 that audiophiles use in their external DAC or CMOY. Those opamps are only about few ringgit when you it by piece, if such big speaker producers buy those opamps in bulk, I'm sure the total price will drop significantly.

May i know what caps edifier put in your s2000? And what caps that you are looking at that cost you 400-500 bucks? I think you're quite stupid to consider something that expensive, there are many other caps that are 10 times cheaper and will yield better results than stock caps. Edifier could use better caps and opamps considering your speaker cost 1.5k.

Edifier's analog cables oxidizes quickly if you room has no dehumidifier or air cond, they could provide a medium grade gold plated plugs and wire to come with their speakers...

U are the type of person that thinks using stuff and gears that cost hundreds of ringgits is called "audiophile", you are wrong. Please look up an English dictionary for the meaning of audiophile.

Besides, in my first post i said IF Edifier could use those on the S series, since they already cost quite alot, it would increase their price-performance ratio if they put in opamps and caps just a couple of ringgit more expensive.

U know sometime u go thinking "If i could be a millionaire someday?" It's just a thought.

IF. Oh! Wait, u're the lan si guy with s2000 costing rm1.5k looking at rm400 ringgit caps and canare plugs, why do u even care about best price to performance ratio.

To other in this forum, sorry, its between me and him. If he has stuff to say to me and he is clever, he will reply me by PM.

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 15 2009, 09:09 PM

Hmm... what is long throw bass/woofer?

most altec lansings are "long throw" ?

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Jul 17 2009, 04:01 PM

I found this somewhere in google...KONONYA...

A "long throw" speaker is normally considered to be a high-directivity speaker. Vertically, because it projects a tight beam, you're able to "throw" the sound over the heads of the nearest listeners without killing them with SPL(sound pressure level). Horizontally, it sends less energy into the sidewalls of the room - the reverb picks up more slowly as you walk toward the back.

When it comes to floor-stacked sub woofers, neither of these effects apply. All of the listeners are in the direct path of the subs, so there is no throwing it over their heads. Also, all subs have wide patterns, and nearly all rooms have relatively long reverb times at low frequencies - so the effect of low frequency directivity on the distribution of reverb(reflect) in a room is usually insignificant.A long throw woofer design for a Sub tends to increase its bass output,while limiting distortions