Focal Length: 22
Iso:100
Exposure:1/4
F:25
Mode:Shutter Priority

next time, if ur not used to fully manual, in these cases, switch over to aperture mode, and see what is the shutter reading will be... then work on it in manual accordingly... tweak until u like...

better still, use a polarizer...

i said of only a polarizer coz its more cost efficient, well, although it only gives 2 stops down, but it its more versatile than an ND, unless u shoot waterfalls and sunset/rise often.

but if u can afford a set of NDs, then do go ahead... it'll be awesome

center pic too narrow DOF. should narrow down aperture to get entire food surface in focus

use ISO100 for light trails
and u forgot to put in ur shutter speed

panning for a blurred background is best done if the subject is far from the cameraman, so the radius of the panning motion remains large and the perspective of the subject stays roughly the same.

may i point out that there's not a single point in focus? ur too near for the lens to focus, ur using a 50mm, move back a bit

try not to use the extremes of the aperture range, its softer there

Camera Model - Sony Alpha A100
Lens - SAL 1870 @ 30mm
Aperture - f/5
Shutter Speed - 1/25s
ISO - 200

Camera Model - Sony Alpha A100
Lens - SAL 1870 @ 30mm
Aperture - f/7.1
Shutter Speed - 1/40s
ISO - 400



know where your len's focussing point starts, and work with/around it

@0168257061 : im using kit lens worr... he's using 50mm prime.. surely his ought to be much sharper

well, i've personally used a friend's C 50mm, and it's not too bad actually. But of course, its the cheapest compared to the other 2 u mentioned. in fact, KM's (2nd hand) market price now is more than twice C's new unit (which is also the reason i've not gotten it myself). And dont even mention about SAL's own f/1.4. That piece makes me drool everytime i see it.




absolutely agree with you on that.

This post has been edited by lwliam: Dec 2 2008, 08:59 PM

in a way, IS in tele is MORE important than IS in wide angles. that is because when you zoom in tighter, smaller movements on the camera will be amplified in the image as motion blur. at wider angles, minor shakes are still tolerable till a certain extent.

true that 50mm is less convenient than your kit lens. but your kit lens will introduce more CA and have a much lower edge to edge sharpness to an image. if you are comfortable with moving around for framing, i'd go for the 50mm or the 28mm (which i am using now - also a reason why i didnt get the 50mm is because my images are usually more on the wide range - although, i envy those who have a 50mm most of the time).


it depends on how expensive ur IS lens is.. on higher end models, there are 2 different type of IS. one is the regular up down left right shift IS, the other one is IS meant for panning, which means it doesnt bother the lateral motion of the lens, but it stabilizes the vertical motion, giving it a smoother panning result


its good you take advice and guides from elsewhere, everyone have to start somewhere. but sometimes it depends on your preference as well, after taking a shot, see if what u took (with correspond to the settings) feels pleasing to you. if not, tweak the settings again and try again. if yes, then good for you. it doesnt mean what settings other ppl use would give the same 'awesome-ness' effect to your pic. experiment a bit, when u get the looks that you like, rmb the settings that you use, the next time, u can roughly put in the same setting values and begin from there again, instead of going through all the setting/tweaking all over again.

one more thing, control the f-number accordingly to your subject. some things are more suited to narrow DOF, some would need a deeper one. one setting does not fit every subject.

A number of the picsi have no idea what is it, and when the viewer needs to ask what is that photo is/about, then the photo is a failure.

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Added on December 3, 2008, 2:08 pmPIOPIO, please read the 1st post in this thread 1st too... thanks

This post has been edited by lwliam: Dec 3 2008, 02:09 PM

im not saying all is not good, just a few of them, when u cant even see the outline of the subject...

and padfoot, i agree...

sorry if you took the wrong way, but i wasnt refering to all the pictures.
at the same time, yes i wasnt looking at it in an artsy point of view. i guess i've seen quite a number of non-art images, probably its a new breather for me

if only the bird was angled more towards the camera, then it'd be so much better. but anyhow, still good as there's not much blur.

its about the angle the camera is shooting from, as for this case, the angle is too extreme. use a less higher vantage point and keep the camera pointing at a lower angle.

dude, ur EXIF always missing...

the colors does not give a well separation of subject. i reckon, if the background were of the opposite color (green/blue), the red would stand out more.

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Added on December 6, 2008, 12:49 ambut of coz, there might/might not be your choice, depends on the availability of the colors at that point of time as well. just a tip to help on composition the next time u press the shutter

This post has been edited by lwliam: Dec 6 2008, 12:49 AM

Camera Model - Sony Alpha A100
Lens - KM 28mm prime
Aperture - f/2.8
Shutter Speed - 1/15s
ISO - 400



Taken at Aquaria KLCC. Piranhas.

any comments?

nice pants