send for outside polish, then opti-seal with regular ONR wash. Is it enough ? (without claying) ><

i wouldn't do that if i were you

polish at home okay ah ? but only using hand and noobie skill la

read up some guides/watch some videos, ask some pointers/things that you don't understand here and you're good to go

been searching around but only saw polishing work with a rotary >< any polishing by hand guide around ? which polish is suitable for beginner ?

by hand also similar motion as rotaries: crisscross left right up down motions

wipe/buff off before the product dries. and don't need to use excessive/huge amounts. small amounts will do.
additionally follow the instruction of the product you're going to use
(eg: some products will tell you not to detail under hot weather/under direct sun light, while some are ok with it.)

Help me in detailing my exhaust from black to shiny... method and whats required

get a separate clay bar for that, and some polish product

Example? Hehe excuse my noobness.

clay bar use any... + lube (can try using car shampoo for better cleaning power?)

then polishing product, maybe kura kura? mothers? soft 99? meguiar's?

Any idea where can I get the Duragloss 505 Water Spot Removal?

Search for Meguiars in youtube. You can find plenty of guides/how to using their consumer products by hand. Same method can be use with most other products.

I hope you're talking about your stainless steel exhaust tips and hopefully it can be remove/re-install. Or else it's going to be a little tricky.
But basically,
- 1st: you need to clean it...I mean really clean it. If you don't have any All Purpose Cleaner or Degreaser, use dish washing liquid with a soft cloth.
- 2nd: there would be lots of caked-in carbon deposit. So you'd need something to clean that also. Use Diesel.
- 3rd: Claying time - just get yourself the cheapest clay you can find. It's going to be a use-and-throw-away thingy so it doesn't matter what clay you use.
- 4th: Find yourself a metal polish. Autosol is fine. Polish using a cotton cloth.
- 5th: At this time the exhaust would look shiny but you might see some scratch/swirls/spider-web-like finish. Change to a soft microfiber cloth and keep on polishing, but this time ever so lightly.

Depending on the level of defects, the above might take a few minutes to hours. If it's taking too long, don't worry. If you can see improvements then you're on the right track. If not....errr...it might be a good idea to get a few pictures and post it up here and let see what you're dealing with...hehehe..

Google for Duragloss malaysia. They have an online store and a couple of places in PJ area are also selling them.

i was thinking on polishing my exhaust... but... naw f*** it :EFFORT:

My steps are always OCD...hahahah. Anyway, that only apply to *very* neglected ones (something like never-been-cleaned before for years). You might be able to skip one or two steps if you've been maintaining/cleaning it regularly.

Oh...one more thing I forgot to mention. After all the polishings and restoring 'back to new', I suggest also find a product to seal it with. Normal wax/sealant would do but it won't last for long as the exhaust would be exposed to high heat. A durable coating would be great but you'd need to get a whole bottle just to coat that *small* thing that would most probably need around one or two drops. I haven't tried any sealants for metal so can't really make any suggestion. Maybe somebody else can chime in on this.

hmm my exhaust aren't that neglected as i always wash it, so the caked carbon deposits are limited to within the exhaust which i couldn't be bothered with.

now for the outside, im really intrigued on sealing it.anyone else can provide better insights on sealing a high temperature exhaust muffler/tip?

I want to clean off the water spots from my car windows & side mirrors because whenever it rains it tends to screw up my vision, making it much harder to see.

I tried using Scotch Brite with glass cleaner, slowly scrubbing in a circular motion, now the water doesn't 'clump' together on the spot where I scrubbed. Previously it was like this -



- now it thins out and forms a 'separate layer'.

Am I doing it right? The water spots can still be seen when the windows are dry but when it rains it doesn't clump up anymore. Please do advise, fellow sifus, thanks!

be very VERY careful with this especially the green side. it is abrasive and may induce scratches/swirls/hazing of your windscreen/glass.

Noted. I used a small force, so no swirls observed after I done a part of the window. Was thinking of finding those powerballs or whatever they call those to attach to a drill to polish the glass, because apparently the water stains have been there for a while. Any tips on that?

as various sifu posted before:

try soft brush/foam, and use:
- toothpaste
- natural vinegar
- glass cleaners (kura kura wax got clear vue, soft 99 got duragloss i believe? then theres a whole buncha stuff from autogeek)
- claying

if the above all failed, then consider using glass polishing/compound.

All tak jadi. Tried the kiwi kleen glass cleaner with the scouring pad but watermarks not removed.

I'm a total newbie to detailing but it certainly seems interesting - any commercially available glass compounds that can remove those stubborn water spots & also polish the glass a little? 15 year old glass very hard to see out of whenever driving during rain + headlight glare from other vehicles. Preferably something that can be bought at Tesco/Giant etc, so I can pick one up when doing weekly grocery shopping.

Rear windscreen


Side mirrors


This post has been edited by TheWandererX: Jan 8 2013, 05:07 PM