neosaint99 is it manual car dont have clutch oil?
i dono for other car lah but waja i see have it ?

neosaint99 is it manual car dont have clutch oil?
i dono for other car lah but waja i see have it ?

u mean clutch pump ahh??... cars like waja n wira, they use hydraulic clutch pump... while ours use cable saja....

you shouldnt be driving at that rpm before 1000km
before that you should keep it below 2500rpm
after the 1000km change can rev but still dont too high
take care of your engine until it wears in...about 5k
then u can drive like normal
and ofcourse high revs and hard driving at any point of the car's life is not good

btw,for a typical iswara gearbox on gear five at 110km/h cranks in at about 3450rpm

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:42 pm

just wondering about the fender bar
if the guy can drill through the metal with a battery powered hand drill, the metal cant be very thick or very hard
so, what kind of force transfer will that point have?
if the bar is a rigid system, then the surrounding metal will be flexing massively and this would be very bad for the car body
the two anchored to the door hinge points are probably abit more robust as they were designed to be anchor points...
but still, their load would be static load, not dynamic load
so the appropriateness of anchoring there is also questionable to a certain extent

im not saying the bar wont make a diff
i dont know and i wont comment on that
but its just that from the looks of it, the car body is going to be massively fatigued (unneccessarily) by the installation of this bar

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:46 pm

the most efficient speed for this car at steady state at gear 5 is between 80 and 90km/h...actual speed, not what is shown on our meters,...use gps or count the distance markers on the highway when at constant speed to know your error...
mine shows 8km under...meaning if its showing 90, im actually doing only 82km/h!

this speed im quoting is not only taking into account the peak power on the power curve of the engine, but also air resistance encountered by the frontal cross section of the car
once the car starts approaching 100 and above, the air resistance gets higher (the increase is non-linear) and thus more power is needed to maintain the speed and efficiency drops

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:53 pm

manual cars use DRY clutch
there is no oil in the system
if oil seal from gear box leaks and oil gets onto the clutch plate, the clutch wont catch and u'll get a burning pad even when fully engaged
can be one of two things that the prob
1. clutch cable snapped
2. clutch arm busted
or very unlikely 3. spring plate busted

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:58 pm

thats gona increase your fc
its a double butterfly
the iswara stock carbie uses a linear air flow carburator
the butterfly flap gives a non linear (exponential) air flow increase
the linear air flow carbie is practically a mechanical EFI
next to injection, this is the best
and FYI, with my 6month old 1.3 which hasnt even worn in yet properly, im getting 12.8km/L which works out to 15cents/km
not to mention next year petrol prolly gona be 2.50 or 2.60 per liter
the weber aint gonna help your wallet...

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:59 pm

the only way would be to install an efi system
without that, the fuel will need the carburator to control the flow

neosaint99 speaks all....

neosaint99@
grounding cable got wad effect?

about the fender bar, it drill there. But have you see how difficult to drill? Last time autogen wanna drill the hole there feel so tired. It need force in so hard then only the drill bit can go tru. Where we drill there, is the most hardest place among the whole body. Even thought if you use the power drill and drill 4wd vehicle also can go tru la. See like nothing can do, but it really gave alot of improvement. Try already then you know. 

Grounding cable not much effect. But if install it at some age car, you can feel it. The effect can give is,

-Better headlight. (Because the grounding enough. Even our oem headlamp also need grouding. Imagine using a tiny wire to grounding the headlamp with thicker wire, which is better?)
- ICE
- Engine start better. 1 crank jao start.

hello guys/sifoos..

wana ask smthng. the CAI thingy, will it give same effect to my old saga with stock carburator same as the effect it gives to those EFI engine like wira 4g15?

i know the purpose of this CAI thingy is to suck in cold air instead of hot air that circulating under the hood. im just curious about the effect to my old carb saga.

thanx in advance.

as i clearly stated at the begining,... im not denying that it improves performance

im just saying that its going to fatigue the metal
and ofcourse its hard to drill with a battery operated drill
the rpm is too low for the drill bit
those are HSS drill bits (high speed steel)
not meant for low rpm
as it is, the low rpm will make it hard to operate efficiently
and if they are constantly doing it, then the drill bit will most definitely be blunt due to the wrong operating conditions,... making it even worse
that is most likely why it was so 'hard' to go through
right tools for the right job bro...if not everything gets spoilt and the tools will not necessarily make life easier

also, you are saying that its the hardest place in the body
did u check and see if there was a mounting plate there for force distribution?
mounting/load points are always designed differently,...especially when it comes to dynamic loads
the place that they are drilling into doesnt have anything behind it
or they wouldnt be able to bolt the bar in
and since there was nothing there, there most likely wont be a mounting point there and thus no additional strength in that location
it will just be a normal pressed metal plate like everything else
this being the case, the strength would be the same and thus it in all likelihood wont be suitable for dynamic load bearing
you have to understand that bigger is not always necessary
the light has a rated power draw
if the wire can support it, then a larger one is not required
if the draw is 5amps, then a 8 or 10amp wire will do
installing a 50amp wire will not make any difference

and another thing
the grounding wire is only the negative
if every1 is so for installing huge 100amp grounding wires, why not change all the positive wires to thick wires too?
wouldnt the 'tiny wire' supplying the power at the positive terminal of the light now be the bottle neck?
its a closed circuit
you just cant go and change half the loop and say it now has better capacity
and if the excuse is oxidation, then wouldnt the positive also be oxidized?
why not change that one too?

and bottom line,...the efficiency still does not improve

Most of the factory grounding system consists of a few skinny cables that usually connect the body and engine/gearbox back to the battery's negative terminal. As these connections oxidize or come loose over time, the electrical devices have to work much harder to overcome the increased resistance. Inadequate grounding causes starting difficulty, inaccurate sensor reading, unneccesary high fuel consumption, shorter battery lifespan, electrical/electronic malfunction and various drivability issue.

Apart from maintaining the factory ground system, additional grounding comes handy in preventing such problems and restoring lost performance. It works by connecting various engine and chassis "point" back to the battery to provide shorter, lower-resistance paths for the electrical current.

Even brand new cars can have problems with inadequate grounding due to production cost and other considerations. If you want the ultimate in everything, you should consider getting a set of professionally install high quality grounding cables.

However, grounding modification does not increase your top speed on a properly maintained vehicle. Grounding cannot cure all your electrical/mechanical problems. Grounding modification should never come before all neccesary maintenance that ensures the road worthiness of your vehicle.

Why we need additional grounding?

First, why i said when installing grounding, my headlamp is brighter? My headlamp wiring had been change to 90/100w, while the stock grounding is not enough for me. it already proven to me, when installed additional grounding, my headlamp become better..

Another thing, when my car still stock, I installed ICE. Not much, just a 4 channel amplifier and a 12 double magnet woofer. When I turn it, the headlamp, meter light, even door lamp will blinking when the bass kick in. When after I installed the grounding, all those thing solved. That is another reason, stock grounding is not enough. It maybe enough for car which 100% stock. Thicker, doesn't mean the better. But if choose the thick compare with tiny, confirm the thicker is better that the tiny stock grounding cable. And one more thing, how you know my car all positive wiring is still stock wire?   

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Added on December 13, 2007, 11:57 pmGuy.. Izit possible to get the old batch lmst side spoiler? I wanna buy it and put at my car. I feel with those side spoiler, it look better.

thats the thing
if wana talk bout cables, we should not just talk bout 'grounding cables'
should be basically rewiring

i dont think can get the side spoilers
coz if ppl wana take them out, then there will be holes in their car
its screwed into the side
mayb can get from half cut shop or from cars that have been totaled

Drill hole to screw de meh? I thought double side tape? That also one of the proton parts. cannot get at Proton Spare part shop?

yeap
screwed in
atleast one screw each
on the horizontal part
rest i not sure how its held in
mayb can get from proton parts in glenmarie
not sure bout that tho

glenmarie is where?

haha... anyone interested wanna join my weber clan can get from him....

wrong tuning also can get 20cent per km? Wah.. My normal carb, already 19cent per km. If weber with perfect tuning, 15cent per km? Weber is cheap. But mod the weber tapak expensive. 

thats gona increase your fc
its a double butterfly
the iswara stock carbie uses a linear air flow carburator
the butterfly flap gives a non linear (exponential) air flow increase
the linear air flow carbie is practically a mechanical EFI
next to injection, this is the best
and FYI, with my 6month old 1.3 which hasnt even worn in yet properly, im getting 12.8km/L which works out to 15cents/km
not to mention next year petrol prolly gona be 2.50 or 2.60 per liter
the weber aint gonna help your wallet...

perfect tuning i never try before whats the fuel consumption... if i got i also dun need to be in dilemma now...
fabricate the adaptor can be cheap or expensive.... dcnf is cheap, around 100bucks can get.... mine, dgv, cost about rm180... ramly had to send my carb to machine shop to fabricate the adaptor for me on the spot...
yeap... weber 32/36 dgv 5a is a progressive carb... its dual barrel, primary and secondary, which opens one at a time... different with dcnf or dcoe where both of their butterfly flap opens together....
well, its this characteristic that fascinates me much about the power delivery.... when the second barrel opens, u can feel an extra surge of power...  

hello guys/sifoos..

wana ask smthng. the CAI thingy, will it give same effect to my old saga with stock carburator same as the effect it gives to those EFI engine like wira 4g15?

i know the purpose of this CAI thingy is to suck in cold air instead of hot air that circulating under the hood. im just curious about the effect to my old carb saga.

thanx in advance.

yeah tats wat im reali into DGV instead of DCNF or DCOE.. haha

so, go get one then...

wellcome 
your name added in the list 
hope you will visit this thread every day 

erm.. still thinkin.. now kinda on tight budget.. take it slow.. haha