hey guyz
leave u guys skejap n u all go n start v9 d
hahaha

anywayz,...heres a snippet of the post i put in my iswara mod thread

*quote*
i just tried out my friend's new lmst
its using the stock 4-1 exhaust manifold
i can honestly say that his car has far better low end torque compared to mine which is using a long 4-2-1 extractor (which was stock when i purchased my car back in May)
if ya'll are having problems with power, i would suggest you get a trade in on the 4-2-1 extractor at your local exhaust shop
im sure they have many 2nd hand 4-1s hanging around
im seriously considering doing this as my low end torque is really bad
*unquote*

the new lmst (with the crummy tail-pipe and 'long' gear shift) is wayyy lighter than mine which i got in May
the clutch is lighter, the gears smoother, i think the power steering is also lighter (havnt driven my car in a month so cant really remember)
...and the best part is,...it has far better low end torque!
this will significantly improve efficiency,...especially in town driving

any idea howmuch it would cost to swap my 4-2-1 for a stock 4-1?

oh,...and i need to fix fog lamps on my car
some of the roads here are really really....(and i mean REALLY)...dark
any pics of ppl who have installed?

i saw in v8 singchaii posted a pic
but that was with the lights on
couldnt c how the lights themselves were mounted

anyone else fixed fog lamps?
can please post pics here?
i need ideas
hehe
thanks alot peeps

but if i can get the same with a stock swap i would rather do that than change the exhaust line
lastime i drove my fren's lmst to ipoh n back
got 16++km/L!!!
his was using stock 4-1 manifold
and there were 3 of us in the car
n had our stuff in the boot too

thats y wen get 12+km/L with my lmst i was very disappointed
i think it has to do with the extractor and exhaust line that they changed
no idea y they keep changing
dun think they are doing any modeling to test oso
just main change change je
haih...

any pics?
i tot the myvi fog lamps similar to the gen2's?
the gen2 fog lamps performance not bad wor
wen i 1st came here i was using a gen2 for 3 weeks
it had the fog lamps and i was using them alot for my night driving on the darker roads


any1 got pics of fog lamps they installed?

thanks all

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Dec 9 2007, 10:57 AM

what brand is it?
can it adjust the "left-right" direction?
i see the mounting as if can only adjust up and down

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Added on December 9, 2007, 7:00 pmoh
didnt know must terbalik...
if like that den duwan lor
hahaha

the hela comet looks like something off a land cruiser or range rover
dun think it'll look good on a car
the driving lamp on the other hand looks good
any dimension?
and can it adjust "left-right" direction?
this one oso the bracket looks like can only adjust "up-down"

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Added on December 9, 2007, 7:01 pmdo u have a pic of the band?
would be interesting to know

all performance extractors are 4-2-1
thats true
but then the engine must also be tuned for it
cant just go and slap an extractor on just any engine block
if the match doesnt jive, the performance will actually decrease rather than increase

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Dec 9 2007, 07:03 PM

yeap
most definitely!
where can buy ar?
if put behind the grill how will the beam be effected?

this is exactly why the cent/km is not practical
how can one compare the fc of two different fuel types which have different prices?...
what is being compared now is cost per km
which of course will be different due the difference in fuel cost...

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Dec 9 2007, 09:22 PM

actually, there is
additives to the fuel do reduce engine friction and improve the combustion of the fuel to a certain extent
also they have anti-fouling agents added in
this reduces soot and foreign matter buildup in the combustion chamber and on the piston...and to a certain extent the spark plug too
this in turn provides better combustion conditions, less blow by and better energy conversion

im not saying efficiency can go up by 10% or even 5%
its much less
but still there nonetheless
also, the additives are in the parts per million
they are in very small quantities as the major volume and thus dominating characteristics are still that of the fuel itself

you shouldnt be driving at that rpm before 1000km
before that you should keep it below 2500rpm
after the 1000km change can rev but still dont too high
take care of your engine until it wears in...about 5k
then u can drive like normal
and ofcourse high revs and hard driving at any point of the car's life is not good

btw,for a typical iswara gearbox on gear five at 110km/h cranks in at about 3450rpm

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:42 pmjust wondering about the fender bar
if the guy can drill through the metal with a battery powered hand drill, the metal cant be very thick or very hard
so, what kind of force transfer will that point have?
if the bar is a rigid system, then the surrounding metal will be flexing massively and this would be very bad for the car body
the two anchored to the door hinge points are probably abit more robust as they were designed to be anchor points...
but still, their load would be static load, not dynamic load
so the appropriateness of anchoring there is also questionable to a certain extent

im not saying the bar wont make a diff
i dont know and i wont comment on that
but its just that from the looks of it, the car body is going to be massively fatigued (unneccessarily) by the installation of this bar

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:46 pmthe most efficient speed for this car at steady state at gear 5 is between 80 and 90km/h...actual speed, not what is shown on our meters,...use gps or count the distance markers on the highway when at constant speed to know your error...
mine shows 8km under...meaning if its showing 90, im actually doing only 82km/h!

this speed im quoting is not only taking into account the peak power on the power curve of the engine, but also air resistance encountered by the frontal cross section of the car
once the car starts approaching 100 and above, the air resistance gets higher (the increase is non-linear) and thus more power is needed to maintain the speed and efficiency drops

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:53 pmmanual cars use DRY clutch
there is no oil in the system
if oil seal from gear box leaks and oil gets onto the clutch plate, the clutch wont catch and u'll get a burning pad even when fully engaged
can be one of two things that the prob
1. clutch cable snapped
2. clutch arm busted
or very unlikely 3. spring plate busted

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:58 pmthats gona increase your fc
its a double butterfly
the iswara stock carbie uses a linear air flow carburator
the butterfly flap gives a non linear (exponential) air flow increase
the linear air flow carbie is practically a mechanical EFI
next to injection, this is the best
and FYI, with my 6month old 1.3 which hasnt even worn in yet properly, im getting 12.8km/L which works out to 15cents/km
not to mention next year petrol prolly gona be 2.50 or 2.60 per liter
the weber aint gonna help your wallet...

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Added on December 13, 2007, 7:59 pmthe only way would be to install an efi system
without that, the fuel will need the carburator to control the flow

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Dec 13 2007, 08:10 PM

i have yet to find any conclusive evidence on this (either negative or positive)
so far as i can tell at the moment, the verdict is 'no effect on efficiency'
i wont comment on ICE performance or other stuff like that as im not into those things
my no.1 priority is to reduce fuel consumption...and so far the best options i have come up with is good engine tuning, good maintenance, proper driving habits, and most importantly,... a vacuum gauge!

usually manual uses dry clutch
is the waja a manual?
n r u sure it is clutch oil and not the automatic transmission oil?
if u r sure about it, then i'm very interested to know y the waja is using a wet clutch
usually low power transmissions only use wet clutch...like low cc bikes
even the 125cc and above nowdays try to go for dry clutch d

ohh,...u mean for the servo izit hahaha

as i clearly stated at the begining,... im not denying that it improves performance

im just saying that its going to fatigue the metal
and ofcourse its hard to drill with a battery operated drill
the rpm is too low for the drill bit
those are HSS drill bits (high speed steel)
not meant for low rpm
as it is, the low rpm will make it hard to operate efficiently
and if they are constantly doing it, then the drill bit will most definitely be blunt due to the wrong operating conditions,... making it even worse
that is most likely why it was so 'hard' to go through
right tools for the right job bro...if not everything gets spoilt and the tools will not necessarily make life easier

also, you are saying that its the hardest place in the body
did u check and see if there was a mounting plate there for force distribution?
mounting/load points are always designed differently,...especially when it comes to dynamic loads
the place that they are drilling into doesnt have anything behind it
or they wouldnt be able to bolt the bar in
and since there was nothing there, there most likely wont be a mounting point there and thus no additional strength in that location
it will just be a normal pressed metal plate like everything else
this being the case, the strength would be the same and thus it in all likelihood wont be suitable for dynamic load bearing


you have to understand that bigger is not always necessary
the light has a rated power draw
if the wire can support it, then a larger one is not required
if the draw is 5amps, then a 8 or 10amp wire will do
installing a 50amp wire will not make any difference

and another thing
the grounding wire is only the negative
if every1 is so for installing huge 100amp grounding wires, why not change all the positive wires to thick wires too?
wouldnt the 'tiny wire' supplying the power at the positive terminal of the light now be the bottle neck?
its a closed circuit
you just cant go and change half the loop and say it now has better capacity
and if the excuse is oxidation, then wouldnt the positive also be oxidized?
why not change that one too?

and bottom line,...the efficiency still does not improve

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Dec 13 2007, 10:54 PM

no matter how old your car is, if u r sucking in hot air now, the cold air will definitely make a difference
its basic thermodynamics

thats the thing
if wana talk bout cables, we should not just talk bout 'grounding cables'
should be basically rewiring

i dont think can get the side spoilers
coz if ppl wana take them out, then there will be holes in their car
its screwed into the side
mayb can get from half cut shop or from cars that have been totaled

yeap
screwed in
atleast one screw each
on the horizontal part
rest i not sure how its held in
mayb can get from proton parts in glenmarie
not sure bout that tho

the weber lets in more air at the higher rpm
thats the whole point of the progressive double butterfly valve
but more air without more fuel will not produce more power
so if what everyone says is true that webers increase a car's power (and it is true), it also means that the car is burning more fuel along with the increase of air
so,...you do the math...

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Added on December 14, 2007, 6:34 pmair brakes?!
u mean like lorry?
so now ur car got compressor ar
wat u had to change?
how much?
where you did?

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Added on December 14, 2007, 6:37 pmu should not use washing machine hose or vacuum cleaner hose for CAI
it is in the engine compartment and will be exposed to higher temps
you should use either temp resistant hoses, or just go get the ori CAI
click on the link in my siggy n check out the details there
not expensive wan to get good CAI done
very worth it

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Added on December 14, 2007, 6:38 pmthe gen2 campro very VERY rough
hope they improved the new one
if not,...really crap man
better drive 20year old jap car

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Added on December 14, 2007, 6:45 pmerm,....just FYI,...."DIY" means "Do It Yourself"
going to a shop and asking some dude to fix it for you does not fall under that catogary
it would fall more under the catogary of,..."buying something with installation service charge included"

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Added on December 14, 2007, 6:50 pmcv stand for constant velocity
when the car turns around a corner, the outer wheel spins faster than the inner wheel coz the outer wheel has a larger radius
if both wheels were just connected through a fixed gear train (they both spin at the same speed), the outer one would drag or the inner one would skid
both of these situations would cause you to lose control and to become very good friends with the nearest tree or ditch (whichever is closer)

the cv joint ensures that the outer wheel can turn faster than the inner wheel while still delivering torque to both wheels
ever wondered why when a car is jacked up u can turn one wheel and the other doesnt also turn?
or in some cases the other wheel will turn in the oposite direction even!
this is all thanks to the the cv joint

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Added on December 14, 2007, 6:53 pmerm,...the iswara doesnt have a chasis
a chasis is basically a metal frame onto which everything is built
lorrys n busses still do have chasis

many cars nowdays use channeled sheet metal
the body of the car is the frame
there is no discrete frame in the car

check out the delorean DMC12
it has a very unique chasis
really cool!

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Dec 14 2007, 06:53 PM

wow...thats some cool stuff right there

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Added on December 15, 2007, 12:02 amhahaha
no lar bro
coz so many ppl using diy in wrong context
sory lar...ter-chose your msg to tembak
hehehe

chill chill

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Added on December 15, 2007, 12:05 amwah....where bijirin going?

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Added on December 15, 2007, 12:05 amwah...good review

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Added on December 15, 2007, 12:08 amhahaha
so sad that car kena strip kau kau
but yea...thats the frame already
no chassis in view anywhere

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Dec 15 2007, 12:08 AM

wah
how u know?...
u steal wan ar?...

ooo
benua mana?

wat brand u using n how much r they?
r they copper core?