below 2.5k rpm? huhu, thats good bro, my car always pass that speed, especially in the lower gear. my first gear usually change at 2.5k to 2.8k. Is that normal?

Cannot do what you did la(below 2k thing), if I release the pedal before the gear change to higher gear, it wont change gear

I got nothing to do last night while driving and i feel bored..So this is what i did
Take a video to show normal slow apek driving..

The 1st part the speed did not increase as there is a car in front of me..

wanna ask is that..
if i install a component n sub with amp will it cut off my car warranty from proton?

If the mechanic is your friend, he will close an eye..
Like my mechanic.

Just got back from "round-round". hehehe. Cannot do la(control the gear change below 2k rpm), difficult to maintain that driving style ....

Went to service centre... adjusted my boot.. .now able to close very smoothly.
Only thing left is the boot's light. Doesn't work.
He said there's something wrong with the wiring... needs time to check.. so
i said next day first lah....
Went to do tinting... AirCool..... cost me Rm888.. wonder if it was a good deal.
the side n back glasses are fitted with its new security film... front one, normal
AirCool one lor.... Not bad... quite cooling.

good ya.but rm888 i think is reasonable price lo.
i hv done tint cool world around rm400 if not mistaken.

i hv just install Zaptor Vs in my car.
feel smooth already v now wish it can help my gear more smoothly.
need try more few days

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Added on May 19, 2008, 4:07 pmthx why i also upgrade my ice..

This post has been edited by MOMOchacha: May 19 2008, 04:07 PM

i oso put in zaptor..yous is cps?

i plan to change my absorber.

anyone know which is good? and where can i find authentic ones rather than the chiplak ones?


i plan to use back original spring as i prefer the comfy ride

Hei waja campro Denso iridium IK20?

CPS?i dun und le..
i bought it with lowyat.net forumer `jiash87`
he is nice guy

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Added on May 19, 2008, 4:56 pmcurrently i also same with u..
i use bk original spring now i hv ever change to kayaba.
but i hv hear kayaba now days is not good anymore and even claim warranty also very hard.
at the moment i front and rear absorbar also using `improve`..
quite good and after problem can easy claim and 1 to 1 exchange

This post has been edited by MOMOchacha: May 19 2008, 04:56 PM

wat's a 'zaptor'?

I know how you fell...

For comfy, just stick to the ORI.

Don't mistake KYB is the same as Kayaba. KYB got license to produce Kayaba product.

A brand of voltage stabilizer.

Do we need things like that, Zaptor?

It does improve your vltage stability, thus better performance as most of the component need electricity, ECU, aircond, lamp, and especially ICE if you put power amps. If got money to spare, why not. For me, I think it is not necessary as my car electrical system still in standard form. But will consider when I upgrade my ICE.

It's a voltage stabilizer, basically it take cares of your electrical current in your car..
Zaptor is worth every penny.Trust me.

Hehehe...when drive "unclely", the car seems like telling me...Press....press...straight away rev the car.....hahahha

The r3 absorber, is it really hard? compared to standard one?

i have the same problem, what i do is take out the whole board and place some thin sponge (especially at the centre and nearby the rear windscreen)...problem solve for my case.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:18 pmi have the same problem, i can't solve it is due to plastic cover dimension problem. I tried to add some thin sponge but the problem still there. I tested my friend waja (campro type) and looks like proton rectified it already.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:24 pmi suggest to use 16" x 7jj, perhaps you can try TREND brand (the deep dish type) which the rims is about 5.6kg/pc. If i'm not mistaken the standard rims is about 9kg/pc for 15" x 6.5jj.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:34 pmare u referring to the console that holding the HU? if yes then i did add some leather sheet at the console area to solve the problem. Refer to below picture

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:36 pmif i'm not mistaken is about RM450. Try below link.

http://z6.invisionfree.com/mjs/index.php?act=idx

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:39 pmi recomend Eibach (if there is for waja), else get the GAB fully adjustable. Tested friend of mine, quite good and not so stiff.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:41 pmperhaps you can consider Motul, Elf or Endless.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:49 pmhmmm...let the engine properly run-in for 5k-10k mileage, only start to whack it. as during this stage there is possibly steel debris from the new engine. Usually we change the engine oil after 1K (for new engine) as we want to get rid of the steel debris then followed with 5K.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:51 pmbro, recomended to whack your car once awhile as long it does not exceeded 6K i think it won't harm your engine.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:53 pmat least once or twice a day mine 1st & 2nd auto gear change at 6K rpm hehehe...

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:56 pmIt should be IT20, the 0.4mm tip. if heavily mod then need to use cooler plug, IT22.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 8:58 pmyou may consider APM performax, pretty cheap and not too stiff. I've tried my friend Improve and i feel it quite stiff, not sure wheather the 16" 45 series tyre is the root cause.

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Added on May 19, 2008, 9:01 pmhaha....if new car then is not necessary. If you plan to go for ICE then probably it would help a little but i think it wont be deliverung significant improvement.

This post has been edited by zenwarlord: May 19 2008, 09:24 PM

last week after repair the engine moulding...
today just check the other sound from front engine site.
just now my front suspension got problem again..
haiz..really need to spent alot money again.

I say it a well balanced setup with more sporty feels but didn't sacrifice much comfort.