backlight is a standard little 12V bulb
i got it from ebay
i go find the link then i post here

bought 3 from there d coz here only can get like autogauge n all
i like sunpro
zero vacuum is on the left....30inHg (perfect) vacuum on the right
others are all backwards
n sunpro is a good brand too

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Added on October 24, 2007, 11:23 pmn95?
i dun hav n95 wor...
i use 3310...very hebat phone...hahaha

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Added on October 24, 2007, 11:36 pmmy bro got his from this guy
his friend also got his from the same guy

mine is like this design
n this seller oso
but mine is a plain vacuum gauge
this link is for a vacuum/boost gauge

just surf around ebay
can find some good deals there




This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 24 2007, 11:36 PM

when driving on flat road try to keep the vac about 15-20
when accelerating...dun press until below 5...unless u really need to kau kau pecut
den lets say u r in 4th gear...n u going up a slope....n u pressing to get power to climb...n u press until 5 n still not enough power...then shift down to 3rd
dun just press mati mati until reach zero all

this way can drive more economically

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 25 2007, 12:30 AM

i dont have a gps phone
but heres an idea

on the side of the aircon controls console there are 2 screws
one on the vertical plane...n one on the horizontal plane (underneath the dash)
they are both machine screws so they can take some reasonable loading
u can make an L-bracket for those screws (so these screws go through the bracket and then into the dash)
den u can extend the L-bracket up the side of the aircon controls console
den u can attach one of those phone holders that have that flexible arm...either by screwing or clamping the end of the flexible connector to the extended L-bracket
that is what i wanted to do...until i sold my ipaq n moved back to my trusty old 3310

sory bro
not too sure bout pillar holders
i think lastime i saw in accessory shop...i think its for flat dash like old iswara type
n our lmst dash is curved
so it will be (i think) hard to make it fit nice n snug...n get the correct angle
i still like my dashboard setup
makes it looks kinda stock
hehe

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Added on October 25, 2007, 1:37 amerm...when did u last ride a bike?
nowdays most bikes come with v-brakes
or even disc brakes
the bicycle drum brake is a thing of the past....(i.e. our grandfather's era)
im not saying u cant get drum brakes for bicycles anymore...but they are few n far between
they are more common on motorcycles...even up to the high power harleys

anywayz...back to the topic of iswaras...
the iswara is not a powerful car
and most of the braking is done by the front disc brakes anywayz...(cats quoted a 70-30 ratio)
so if u drive normally,...then they stock setup will be fine
but if u drive, as one of the forumers put it, "like a maniac"...(nothing personal k? ), then u would prolly do well to upgrade the brakes
but not just to discs in the rear
u'll need to upgrade the whole braking system
if not the brakes will lock up very easily and it will become more dangerous rather than added safety

actually, this has all been discussed before...
did u read the whole thread or did u just jump in here to up you posting scores?

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Oct 25 2007, 01:37 AM

ok ok...lets not talk bout this nymore...off topic
just to clear thins up,...the bicycle drum brake uses a mechanical actuator to push the brake shoes against the inside of the drum where as the car uses hydraulic pistons
the bicycle drum brake works on a lever system
the brake cable pulls lever on the outside of the drum which is connected to a shaft which works the lever inside of the drum which in turn pushes out against the brake shoe(s) which in turn rub against the inner side of the drum

note: some drum brakes for bicycles have 2 brake shoes, very similar to the car drum brake...on the other hand, some have one (longer) brake shoe (usually running about 250degrees).

dun worry bro
sure can find pillar mount for the meter
lmst so common mar
sure sum1 will b selling it sumwer

no bro
very easy wan
can use the tube that looks like fish tank tube...but the thicker wan
usually the meter comes with the hose all
but then if they dun give then can buy the black vacuum hose from the spare part shop
(dun get from accessory shop...expensive there)
then use the normal T-joint
i'll take a couple of shots n post it up
v easy bro
dun worry

new pics for vacuum gauge setup just posted on 1st page

new pics for extra cigarette lighter socket just uploaded on 1st page!

ok
just changed the screws for my mud flaps
the accessory shops use counter sink screws
heres an example




these screws eventually tear through the plastic as the head is tapered
not to mention they rust
mine were only about 6 months old and they were rusting already
its no surprise tho as they are made from steel and the wheel wells are one of the worst places an unprotected steel part could be

so what i did was i went down to my local everlast nuts & bolts outlet and got me a bunch of "stainless steel pan head self tapping screws"
(which can be seen above in the 2nd picture on the right of the silver counter sink screw)
they were 20cents a piece...but they wont rust...i needed 18 pieces so thats rm3.60...not too steep rite?
for the size, i took out one of the screws from the front as a sample
once i got the ss screws, i then sprayed them with a couple of coats of flat black and another couple of coats of clear lacquer...(atleast they wil be less obvious on the black mud flaps now)



for the front wheels you can just turn the wheel full lock and change all the screws
for the inside most screw (there are five in all for the front) you'll have to use a stubby screwdriver
they used silver screws for my front and the black screws (shown in d 1st pic) for the back flaps
this is what it looks like with the shop installed screws (note the rust)




and this is what it looks like after i have changed the screws





for the back wheel flaps, they only used 3 screws
this is because there are 2 plugs (i think for anchoring the bumper) on the inner edge of the bumper where the flaps will run on
they did not put a screw on the inside (to create an L shape) like they do for the front wheels
this is because they would have to remove the wheel to do this and they could not be bothered
the result is that the flaps on the back are anchored to the bumper with 3 screws in a straight line
this allows the flap to,...well,....flap hahaha
over time it will work itself lose and possibly tear off from the screws
heres a pic of the original setup


what i did was remove the back tyres and replace their 3 original screws
and then i drilled another one on the inside to secure it in the 2nd dimension (basically to create an L shape like the front)
the part that it is screwing into is metal...and the angle is kinda weird...so what i did was use a 2mm drill bit to get through the flap plastic
then i used the black screw seen in picture no.1 (which has a very sharp point) to make the hole through the metal backing (i used a power screwdriver to do this)
(i tried using the drill bit but the angle kept making it run off target)
this is what the 4th screw looks like after its installed


with this extra screw the back flaps become secure and sturdy



just a note...all the screws were screwed in manually with a hand screwdriver and not a power screwdriver so as not to accidentally slip and thus damage the paint since it has only had a day to dry and thus wouldnt be so hard yet

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 2 2007, 10:31 PM

which pic u cant see?

update on the mud flaps for iswara lmst

aparently what the accessory shop lady told me was correct
cant fix the stock iswara mud flaps on the lmst coz of the skirting
we have to use the generic 'west' or 'sparco' type mud flaps
just saw an lmst today that fixed stock proton flaps
looks really bad
here are the pics





mud flaps are definitely recommended to be fixed for the lmst as the tyres kick up spray very easily
but do not fix the proton flaps
get the generic type


This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 5 2007, 08:39 PM

how much which one cost?

my bro and i did it in 2 days from time of opening the 1st panel to the time the last screw was tightened back
but this is the 3rd car we did
so a safe bet for a newbie would be 3 days to do the entire car including tar sheets in the door panels

new update on volt meter on 1st page!

i used Dunlop CA glue
and yes...i put back the carpet after that
the insuflex is not as tough as the carpet and the heels of shoes are pretty harsh

no need put bitumen then insuflex
just choose one or the other
imho bitumen would be better than insuflex from a performance point of view
but the prob is the cost
so from an economic point of view, insuflex makes more sense

the address was on the other thread...the one about insulation
i think its been closed as there was no activity there
i dont have my file with me now so cant get the address
will prolly get my hands on my car file next month or so only
will post up the address once i get it

mayb u can ask in the saga thread if any1 copied it down...
u might get lucky...who knows

the carpet is not stuck....even originally
it is just laid down and everything assembled onto it
thats what keeps it in place

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Added on November 14, 2007, 11:50 pmwah
so much mods

btw,...
please read this before you fix tint
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/554135

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 14 2007, 11:50 PM

hahaha
wer got
i do basic basic stuff je
that just make the ride more comfortable...
...or mayb increase functionality

wer got do all those hebat hebat things like kau kau engine mod n stuff...hahaha

whats GRA?
hahaha