i'm not sure. actually my filco majestouch 2 with red doesn't have the issue as well. it's almost 10 years old now. however, i do regular cleanup twice a year for that board.

double-shot and dye sub will last almost forever under normal conditions. for dye sub sets, just be careful not to scratch the legends with hard objects.

yes pbt and abs feel differently.

Okie la, now i'm used to it. I only changed around 30 of the switches, mainly the alphabets and some enter and spacebar (which doesn't really make much difference, still quite loud of the bigger keys..hahaha)

But i had so much issues with the Keychron with the BT. Don't know why and it's office laptop not like i can uninstall or install anything, luckily i resolved it by connecting it with another channel.

This post has been edited by miyakochan89: Aug 13 2023, 06:11 PM

i guess changing channel is one of the ways to get relatively stable connectivity for bt. i'm lazy to deal with them, so i just stick to wired boards.

these clear pcb-mount stabilizers from gateron are ok.

for now i just try them out on 2u keys. i just lube them, without holee mod. i will find out more in a few more weeks.

Dear all,
I am very new in this Custom/DIY keyboard.

Ferris Sweep board, Kailh Choc Pink 20g switches, Pro Micro MCU.

I am having a hard time soldering the MCU to the board, in particular letting the solder stick to the MCU, and this has halted my progress in completing my own Custom keyboard.

I am convinced that I may need some help from an expert in solving this issue, after ending up with several dead MCU.
If any one is willing to help me out, preferably around Batu Caves area, please do drop me a DM.

I wanted to finish this project, but after several failures, I am seeking help here hoping that someone may be able to help me

Thanks.

you can contact this guy for his service.

I recently bought the Akko V3 cream yellow pro which cost around RM0.7/switch. I do not have any linear switch to compare in the price range, but comparing to the Akko CS piano that I was using, it was generally louder and higher pitch. I really like the sound of it. As for the feel, it felt like any smooth linears that I have used such as the Vertex V1, difference would be on the spring force.

For RM0.7 price, I very happy with it and currently using it with the CF plate on the Frog TKL. The whole board just sounded lively to my liking now. Probably will try it with the PP plate and see how it sounds. I used the Akko CS piano with the PP plate and the sound is slightly lower pitch vs the CF plate, and it is overall a bit fuller. I quite like it.

This post has been edited by zzzz52: Aug 17 2023, 03:16 PM

good for you. however it's not my cup of tea.

as suspected, after checking out the specs of the key switch, it's an even shorter key travel. (3.3mm) i'm still ok with 3.5mm, but not 3.3mm. it's too short for me, always giving me the 'unsatisfied'/'potong stim' feel.

this is also why i swapped stems of giant v6, which has the same total key travel distance originally.

edit: i slowed down to get new linear these days also because of this trend.


This post has been edited by horns: Aug 17 2023, 10:15 PM

Seems like razer took notice of certain keyboards features and implemented it onto their blackwidow line.
It's now hotswappable, gasket mounted and comes with tape mod and foam.
I will not purchase it, but it's interesting to see razer taking notes from the custom keyboard features.

I'm kind of the opposite, a shorter travel is fine for me and the faster bottoming out provides a certain sound characteristic that I kind of like it.

yes figured because you like sound haha

technically most key switches that are advertised as 'made for sound' have shorter key travels.

tbh, until now, i'm still clueless on how a difference of 0.5mm or more in key travel can affect typing feel so significantly.

This post has been edited by horns: Aug 18 2023, 05:43 PM

like any other individual preferences, it's the same for total key travel distance of key switches, i.e., just stick to own preferences.

i prefer 4mm simply because i am used to it. it's the total key travel distance for cherry mx red/black, the reference key switch for mx style linear. (on which other mx style clones are based) this preference of mine was also contributed by the fact that i was from the background of using membrane boards, which have a total key travel distance of 3.5 to 4mm.

on the other hand, younger generations of users were most probably used to laptop-like typing experience, i.e. shorter key travels. for instance, from the force curve graph of rebult x jwk penyu, it has a total distance of below 3mm, sarokeys bcp has a total key travel distance of 3.2mm, etc.

i actually included total key travel distance value into my key switch check list, and saved a lot of money lol

edit: that's how it is in today's mx style key switch ecosystem. as it grows and gets richer everyday, more parameters should be taken into account before purchase, so that we don't get the wrong stuff.

This post has been edited by horns: Aug 19 2023, 11:08 AM

this is what i considered one of random inconsistencies in relatively affordable key cap sets. this is the latest black 2048 set from shenpo. the keycap color of the home row is actually deeper than rows above and below it.



yes, i don't mind the differences, because they still feel good in terms of typing feel. this post is just for general awareness.

This post has been edited by horns: Aug 20 2023, 02:31 PM

Personally, I do not mind that much for the slight inconsistentcy of the printing or colors. It is more of the tolerance of the keycaps.
The stem holes if they are slightly tighter, it is still fine as I can use the trimmer tool to remove some materials.
But if it is too loose, it is almost unusable, especially for long keys. And using some tape or stuffing in material is not a great fix for it.

Thanks for the share.

right, physical tolerance is more important, and trimming should be applied accordingly to fix them.

for loosed caps, the current fix is still stuffing soft and elastic materials. i have an untested idea of securing the stems with metal rings, or o-rings that have way smaller inner diameters than the stem holder. however, i am not even sure the diameter of all stem holders is consistent.

edit: sometimes i also wish for replaceable stem holders that are made of elastic materials like tpu or silicone. they are replaceable for different hardness. it's just another day dream haha

This post has been edited by horns: Aug 21 2023, 02:50 PM

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Aug 26 2023, 12:29 PM

cherry mx2a is another collection that i want. there are also details and visuals about the new lineup at theremingoat.com.

almost all are internal changes. they stick to the color schemes. so far, the obvious difference for differentiation purpose is the flipped logo.

tbh, it's not that easy to compete in the sea of key switches these days, without interesting differentiators. furthermore, most users, especially beginners, are still experiencing different levels of fatique about key switches.

everytime qmk has breaking changes (usually every three months, when qmk merges develop branch into master), something will be broken.

fortunately, they can be fixed relatively easily. just find out changes that affect your code (by checking out the latest changelog at https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/ma...docs/ChangeLog), then update the code accordingly.

alternatively, if the firmware is working fine, you can always choose NOT to update the firmware.

Any non RGB full size modular keyboard?

rgb has become a basic component in mainstream prebuilts. just turn it off all the times.

you can check out monsgeek m5, keychron (many models afaik)