Wah, luckily I never experience OCH burst, always changed 40-50k km. Nowadays got permanent fix already even thought cost quite a lot. My gearbox so far only once I was driving and suddenly Durian symbol came out and couldn't go above 100km/h on the highway, that was 3 years ago. After I stopped the car and restart it never happened again. Yes for less than 20k, the Preve CFE is really a superb car that's stable and powerful on highways for long distances.

Is it normal if rpm went up 3-5k but speed slowly increase when accelerate from standstill? Feels like car slowly engage gear.CVT kong or what

This post has been edited by jycy98: Apr 4 2022, 10:14 AM

what is this part?

if gear masuk to D, u can feel the CVT clutch like vibrate a bit, then become stable
if engine mounting gone case, the car will keep judder vibrate

when u release brake, u can feel the CVT engage a little more, and the car will slowly move on its own (if your car not like this, means the CVT vacuum hose or something no good)
reason is when tekan footbrake, the vacuum will 'tell' the CVT the brake pedal is pressed, so it won't try to move the car
when u release the brake, only then the CVT will engage a bit more and move the car

hard acceleration like pijak all the way down, I guess is normal rpm go high up
for me, I pijak until 2.5k enough liao becoz pijak more also the car cannot accelerate any faster geh

if gear masuk L, only will i pijak full to overtake king of road and pecut uphill

oil cooler

oil cooler hose or the OCH connects to this thing, one in one out
if this thing is clogged, deswai the inlet hose kembang and pecah bah
some ppl keep changing och or mod use steel pipe, but never think why only one side pecah

last time suspect is ppl put in oil treatment like X1R
that thing maybe cannot tahan the turbo heat (our turbo got oil feed and coolant feed) and the thing then become tahi and clog turbo oil hose and oil cooler inside tehre
either turbo kong first, or the och pecah first

some ppl use 100~150k liao never even know got such issue because never visit lowyat or check facebook
see their radiator nipple joint also still original plastic... haha

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 4 2022, 12:13 PM

Good learning. Thank you.

alexei
i'm asking from exora perspective, which also have OCH issues so i presume its the same with preve.

i have known this OCH issues for a long time, and i have known the usage of oil cooler, but i never put 2 and 2 together and connect them until now.

but in the past, when i hear and see oil cooler, they always talked about oil cooler filter. doesn't proton's come with filter? shouldn't we just replace the filter?

some preve member loves to prolong their service...dunno why. it's a time bomb doing that

we got exora owners club, can ask there also for benefit of members

oil filter is directly when oil pumped out from oil sump.
u see here the oil filter example:
It has this thing called 'by-pass valve', is function to open when oil pressure is too high so oil can still go pass it.
Why? sometimes oil filter also full of sh*t liao, becomes clogged, so it needs the by-pass valve. Then? what happens?
The dirty oil will go in and out of oil filter to the rest of the engine lo...

then, reach oil cooler, stuck there... but oil cooler dont have by-pass valve, and the pressure keep building up
from here on, got few scenario depending on what oil flow after the oil cooler

if the oil cooler liao, goes back to oil sump, means the oil pressure will always high at OCH, but won't affect other parts, oil will run hotter since cannot pass through OC normally and slowly cause OCH to burst

if after the oil cooler, oil goes to other engine parts like the turbo, means turbo always not enough oil pressure, then, turbo kong
got ppl kena turbo kong, take apart liao see the turbo housing is sludge and the turbo shaft jam
this is either poor oil quality, low oil pressure kena oil cooking inside turbo housing, or, maybe bad additive not suitable for turbo

last time FB CFE club, got many contributors, mod OCH, service turbo, take apart, put back, change turbo hose from metal to braided one, do kempen servis turbo beramai-ramai... but, no one mention oil cooler or check oil filter see what is causing all those oil block

nah, i don't own an exora.
just that I'm interested in this issue, and so far, actually you are the only one pointing out OC issue instead of OCH issue.
that's why it pique my interest lol.

i understand you are explaining the oil filter for engine oil, i know what you have explained.
but what i refer to, i mean usually when i hear aftermarket OC that people install to their nissan, Volkswagen, most did mention a filter on their own, which need to be clean from time to time.
that's why i wonder if proton one actually come with their own filter.

all what you have said makes senses though.
though, googling back, i notice some users actually have issue a few k's km from new. so if that's the case, maybe QC on OC not good? lol.

I dunno any oil filter that can be cleaned
anyhow, if there got oil filter element that can be cleaned by end user, i think the filtration also is not good one?

i'm sure someone out there oso got this figured out

eventhough is expensive to change OC but at least problem solved
too bad ppl now spend equal amounts of money to pasang modified steel hose

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 4 2022, 03:49 PM

its good education anyway. thanks.

owner since 2013, 160k km
Experienced engine oil leak, fuel pump replacement, radiator fans replaced twice, CVT sensor malfunction, dashboard leather peel off, radiator crack and leaking, engine mounting replaced.
Then consider no other major issue.
Still using it weekly, no plan to change other car yet.

we have plenty of first 2012 batch owner who said thing like this..wear and tear is another thing.. mind you this will also kena to you sooner or later..

your second hand preve maybe has been repaired by previous owner.

list of problem/including some wear and tear u cant escape on preve

-fan motor kaput
-fan harness socket melt/burned
-aircond not cold due to aircond relay kaput, which soldered under the board of outside fusebox
-oil cooler hose koyak leaking, oca stucked clogged up
-turbo oil feed clogged up
-turbo fin shaft goyang
-rear upper camber arm bush koyak
-rear trailing arm bush koyak
-rear subframe mount which hold rear upper arm koyak, literraly need to weld back rm500> , new rm1.5k
-SiD on meter burned
-trim on dashboard patah
-middle cabin lamp patah
-seat spring for driver rosaked
-OCV got clogged up
-VVT pulley patah


what else.. oh wait im a preve owner who mod my car, and also a close friends to proton specialist who repaired and touch a preve every single day.

even the 2018 refinement model also inherit common issue from previous batch.

sekian haha

Today I tested my 2013 EB.

Idle with foot brake, 920 RPM liddat.

Masuk D, drop to 850 RPM liddat, car feel one jerk when clutch engage.

Let go footbrake, RPM maintain 850 and slowly the car move forward RPM goes up til 900 RPM.

Then, I pijak accelerereerator all the way, RPM will maintain 2.5k for a while, then like drop gear shoot up 3k RPM and continue to vroooooom.

It didn't go past 3k RPM in my experience. My CVT oil just service 3k ago with petronas one, and with re-adaptation, and user re-adapt with D and L whenever I wait at red light trafik

manual says 10k service interval

some put in expensive double ester core super titanium F1 spaceship sintetik oil from outer space can become longer life and then, spark plug dowan NGK but put aftermarket third party half price compatible plug and expect 100k lifespan like OE <trolling>

at least got spareparts...

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 5 2022, 08:45 AM

Hi alexei,
Mine doesnt jerk when clutch engage, but mine will have "engine jerk" when reversing and sudden letting go the accelerator. Only in reverse. So Now I have to keep the rev high just to avoid it jerking.

If I recall correctly, whenever we let go the foot brake, it will signal the clutch to engage fully.
Foot brake on - It will slip the clutch.

Normally my foot is gentle when accelerating, only once in a while when wanna "drag race" with random stranger then only I "put my foot" all the way down. Mine will shoot all the way to 5,500RPM after some acceleration.

60K mileage already..touch wood, no CVT nightmare.

Reverse gear also need re-adaptation

actually, my OCH didnt burst, just it got disconnected from loose clamp...mine was the semi steel och, which was difeerent than the full rubber originally came with the car

One question remains, be it Preve CFE, or Suprima S, or Exora CFE.
In D, when you pijak habis, RPM can shoot straight til 5k?
Mine maintain and hold at 3k until 60 kmh, and then baru climb up.

CVT adaptation using this method? Car feels abit smoother after doing it

Every 5 seconds shift D - N - R - N - D

http://service.punchpowertrain.cn/wap_prod...l_en/id/79.html

yup

sometimes if see red durian cvt error, either engine cannot rev or gear won't change when tekan accelertaor, then, need to stop roadside, off and on the car to restart, then quickly do this re-adapt thing

my experience, after cvt oil change, kena red durian few times, but the car and cvt still function normally
bring back my foreman he say re-adapt need redo using obd tool

then after that i myself do, sometimes readapt to L also i do
now, i more dare to change between D and L without worry kena red durian

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 6 2022, 12:49 PM