The CVT is one kind, must engage first, let the clutch settle within 1~2s, baru tekan accelerator. Otherwise, tekan accelerator before clutch settle is short life mia. Try and see for yourself, the RPM will easily go to 3~5 as the clutch haven't engage and feels like doing a drag race. Mine one after many years, after rev hard uphill, then stop the car, will have burnt rubber smell. Dunno what is causing it, lazy to find out.

OCH issue, ppl blame OCH... but they never think why it burst... deswai never fix... because fix wrong thing
something else is broken
go shopee and search, quite a few has been sold from various sellers. I guess some ppl might have figured this out already

Hint:

This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 21 2022, 10:51 AM

if gear masuk to D, u can feel the CVT clutch like vibrate a bit, then become stable
if engine mounting gone case, the car will keep judder vibrate

when u release brake, u can feel the CVT engage a little more, and the car will slowly move on its own (if your car not like this, means the CVT vacuum hose or something no good)
reason is when tekan footbrake, the vacuum will 'tell' the CVT the brake pedal is pressed, so it won't try to move the car
when u release the brake, only then the CVT will engage a bit more and move the car

hard acceleration like pijak all the way down, I guess is normal rpm go high up
for me, I pijak until 2.5k enough liao becoz pijak more also the car cannot accelerate any faster geh

if gear masuk L, only will i pijak full to overtake king of road and pecut uphill

oil cooler

oil cooler hose or the OCH connects to this thing, one in one out
if this thing is clogged, deswai the inlet hose kembang and pecah bah
some ppl keep changing och or mod use steel pipe, but never think why only one side pecah

last time suspect is ppl put in oil treatment like X1R
that thing maybe cannot tahan the turbo heat (our turbo got oil feed and coolant feed) and the thing then become tahi and clog turbo oil hose and oil cooler inside tehre
either turbo kong first, or the och pecah first

some ppl use 100~150k liao never even know got such issue because never visit lowyat or check facebook
see their radiator nipple joint also still original plastic... haha

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 4 2022, 12:13 PM

we got exora owners club, can ask there also for benefit of members

oil filter is directly when oil pumped out from oil sump.
u see here the oil filter example:
It has this thing called 'by-pass valve', is function to open when oil pressure is too high so oil can still go pass it.
Why? sometimes oil filter also full of sh*t liao, becomes clogged, so it needs the by-pass valve. Then? what happens?
The dirty oil will go in and out of oil filter to the rest of the engine lo...

then, reach oil cooler, stuck there... but oil cooler dont have by-pass valve, and the pressure keep building up
from here on, got few scenario depending on what oil flow after the oil cooler

if the oil cooler liao, goes back to oil sump, means the oil pressure will always high at OCH, but won't affect other parts, oil will run hotter since cannot pass through OC normally and slowly cause OCH to burst

if after the oil cooler, oil goes to other engine parts like the turbo, means turbo always not enough oil pressure, then, turbo kong
got ppl kena turbo kong, take apart liao see the turbo housing is sludge and the turbo shaft jam
this is either poor oil quality, low oil pressure kena oil cooking inside turbo housing, or, maybe bad additive not suitable for turbo

last time FB CFE club, got many contributors, mod OCH, service turbo, take apart, put back, change turbo hose from metal to braided one, do kempen servis turbo beramai-ramai... but, no one mention oil cooler or check oil filter see what is causing all those oil block

I dunno any oil filter that can be cleaned
anyhow, if there got oil filter element that can be cleaned by end user, i think the filtration also is not good one?

i'm sure someone out there oso got this figured out

eventhough is expensive to change OC but at least problem solved
too bad ppl now spend equal amounts of money to pasang modified steel hose

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 4 2022, 03:49 PM

Today I tested my 2013 EB.

Idle with foot brake, 920 RPM liddat.

Masuk D, drop to 850 RPM liddat, car feel one jerk when clutch engage.

Let go footbrake, RPM maintain 850 and slowly the car move forward RPM goes up til 900 RPM.

Then, I pijak accelerereerator all the way, RPM will maintain 2.5k for a while, then like drop gear shoot up 3k RPM and continue to vroooooom.

It didn't go past 3k RPM in my experience. My CVT oil just service 3k ago with petronas one, and with re-adaptation, and user re-adapt with D and L whenever I wait at red light trafik

manual says 10k service interval

some put in expensive double ester core super titanium F1 spaceship sintetik oil from outer space can become longer life and then, spark plug dowan NGK but put aftermarket third party half price compatible plug and expect 100k lifespan like OE <trolling>

at least got spareparts...

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 5 2022, 08:45 AM

Reverse gear also need re-adaptation

One question remains, be it Preve CFE, or Suprima S, or Exora CFE.
In D, when you pijak habis, RPM can shoot straight til 5k?
Mine maintain and hold at 3k until 60 kmh, and then baru climb up.

yup

sometimes if see red durian cvt error, either engine cannot rev or gear won't change when tekan accelertaor, then, need to stop roadside, off and on the car to restart, then quickly do this re-adapt thing

my experience, after cvt oil change, kena red durian few times, but the car and cvt still function normally
bring back my foreman he say re-adapt need redo using obd tool

then after that i myself do, sometimes readapt to L also i do
now, i more dare to change between D and L without worry kena red durian

This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 6 2022, 12:49 PM

https://<link removed>/2022/04/11/proton-exora...-hose-advisory/

CFE launched in 2011
Ten years later, no solution....