IMO bring back to the same shop. If that still doesn't work. Then bring else where.

Hi guys. Can recommend 15inch tyre that can last long and good price?
Second car seldom drive, just need to replace the aging tyre since i saw a few small line crack on the side already. The current tyre around 3years old.

plan bring to other shop....
but dont know which shop reliable as fear later kena chop....
i saw after they check the brake...
the balancing weight fall on floor....

As far as the technical manuals of branded tyre manufacturers across the world is concerned small hairline cracks, a few or many in the sidewall or tyre edges is NOT the criteria for the tyre to be replaced.

Besides, aftermarket tyres (of traditional branded manufacturers -western and Japanese) have a specified lifespan of 10 years after manufacturing dates as embossed on all sidewalls of all tyres.

I would expect manuals ( if available in English) of Korean and some or most of China brands available locally would mention it's lifespan of 10 years.

This 3 year old tyre has a long way to go, unless it's sidewall's structure is punctured - which is about the only criteria (other than bulges) for replacement of tyres below 10 years.



This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 24 2025, 07:17 PM


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Even though you didn't drive often, make sure to always pump tire air. You still can use if there is hairline cracks. But not for heavy load or long distance only city speed and continue to monitor. Worst come to worse, replace with 2nd hand tire

Typically service centre is not good at getting 'near perfect' wheel alignment whereby:
1) Steering wheel is perfectly straight on and not crooked and pointed to either side while driving straight ahead on straight roads with both hands firmly holding tight to the steering wheel, as in your car currently, AND

2) All 4 tyres remain within the same lane not crossing over the white lane marking lines for 8 seconds or more at say, 90 km/hr constant speed on straight ahead driving on straight roads with both hands temporarily taken off the steering wheel (CAUTION).

I have been having both the problems above for past say, 3+ years undertaking 4-5 alignment jobs at 4-5 different tyre shops. The search for a really good wheel alignment is still on.

However, I do not have accelerated tyre wear problem for a long time.

Therefore I would suggest you search around for a really competent one, which is very very difficult to come by.

Good luck, and wish me luck too

This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 25 2025, 06:17 PM

Thank you guys for advice. My current tyre is Conti CC7. I think i will bring my car to tyre shop and let them check to see if it still safe and in good condition so i dont need to change them.

Try changing absorber mounting. Suggest you go for ORI.

Mine used to do the same, until I change absorber mounting and no more having this issue. Apparently it was the so slight height that causes it.

Previously using
Japan Ori, have this issue
Change to OEM, even worse
Change to Ori, fixed

Ok, just came back home from a visit to my mechanic who took another closer look at the conditions of front absorber top mountings vis-a-vis vehicle pulling/drifting to the left problem.





My mechanic's verdict is :
the two front absorber top mountings are serviceable/good and do not require replacement.

Note: The hairline cracks as appears in the photos of the rubber mountings are NOT physically observable on the car itself.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 26 2025, 06:23 PM

Good to know. So now it is either tie rod, or lower arm. Or maybe RIM is slightly bend

steering wheel turn right in straight line= car is drifting left. congrats we all same issue

fortunate for me to find a skillful young sifu to conduct alignment/ problem solving. without branded machine.
as he always mention to me "steering senget is not alignment problem".
i dont bother his speech whatever, just pay and get it done pls

cc7 still very new yet.

Do you typically drive at road speeds above say, 140-150 km/hr on highways so much so that the cheapo static/dynamic balancing is inadequate and you prefer the more expensive Road Force Balancing?

I had never done a Road Force Balancing in all my driving experience despite recommendations by friends as I would normally max up at say,140 km/hr or thereabouts on highways and my personal feel suggests the normal static/dynamic balancing is more than adequate in typical driving.

So while driving straight ahead on a straight road or highway with both hands holding firmly onto the steering wheel, the steering wheel is off centre, crooked and pointing to either sides (pointing to right in your case).

This is abnormal and could be corrected with a wheel alignment to make the steering wheel pointing straight towards 12 o' clock direction.

My Avanza steering wheel used to be off centre and crooked pointing to the left before Oscar in Kemuning carried out shimming job (0.3 mm) on my Avanza Rear solid axle Right hand side some 1+ years ago.

After Oscar did a wheel alignment the crooked steering wheel is worst off but pointing to the Right (about 20 mm off basing on lighting stalk) this time. Vehicle pulling left remains as before the job. I was told by Oscar it's ok and it's like that one.

Some 2-3 months later I visited Single Dove (USJ19) for correction. Again vehicle is still pulling left like before and steering wheel is still crooked pointing to the right at about 3-4 mm till todate, though numerically an improvement over previous 20 mm off centre.

Again, I was told it's ok and is like that one.

Such is the way most or all of our local alignment shops is getting away with slip shod alignment workmanship milking away our hard earned money.

2008 VW Jetta GLI Mk5, Canada.

Owner install FK coilovers.

Before alignment:


After alignment:


Owner feedback:
While driving straight ahead on straight roads, steering wheel is slightly off centre and crooked pointing slightly to the right at about 12.02-12.03 direction.
12.00 direction being straight on.



link

This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 28 2025, 02:42 PM

How much weight is too much when balancing a tyre?

Synopsys:
-exceeding 5 ounces (140 gm ) of total weight (combined on both inner and outer sides of the same wheel) is considered excessive when balancing

-More than 15 hammer-on weights on one wheel could also indicate a problem with the wheel or tire.

-


This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 29 2025, 09:56 PM

honestly it really depends.. alot of the regular shops the machines are poorly maintained and the calibration is off. The only time i do balancing is when i get new tires, after that rarely every do i need balancing unless i hot a pothole and knocked off the weights. IF your tire shop balancer is fine, then sure no need to look for the road force.

personally anything more then 50g per side i will have the tire spun This post has been edited by scoupe: Jun 30 2025, 04:55 PM

Whilst driving straight ahead on a straight road with hands holding firmly, the steering wheel of my 2007 Avanza is slightly crooked and off centre to the right currently.

It's about 3 mm tilting to the right (clockwise, pointing at say, 12.05 o'clock direction) in relation to desired straight on steering wheel position/direction as pictured below:

Actual crooked steering wheel direction:


Desired straight-on steering wheel position/direction:


Note:
Kindly zoom in on red coloured circle surrounding head light indicator on right hand side of steering wheel.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jul 4 2025, 06:43 PM

There's a shop on FB called Get It Tuned on FB based in Rawang that talks bout suspension symmetry. May want to check the place out if you have persistent alignment issues that cannot be resolved. Sometimes the suspension components are defective from the factory ie unequal length making alignment simply impossible no matter what