Don't remember, stopped calculating at some point. Rough estimate is probably over RM60k.

Actually, expensive does not mean scam. This is what I used to think too, because the consensus is if it works, it works since it's a digital transmission - right? Nope.

Over time, after building a home theater... I realize that there is no choice but to buy HDMI cables that are higher price for long runs. This is because you need higher gauge copper and also fiber optic (usually consumer grade cables use monofilament plastic) for the long lengths needed to reach the projector on the ceiling.

So no, to say that expensive HDMI cables don't make a difference is untrue. There is no choice to but to pay for expensive ones because they are the only cables that will work if it's long, more so when it comes to these 48gbps capable cables.

There is of course a limit of how much you should pay for though.

I have tested this ugreen one and it works for up to 3m. I'm using them for the PS5, Shield Pro and PS4 Pro.

If you need anything longer and up to 5m, you need to get monoprice active cables.

Anything more than 5m and you'll need to get fiber optic ones from ruipro. I'm using the ruipro one for my HTPC to receiver + TV + projector runs cause they're all above 10m in length (33ft). Works without problems @ 48gbps.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Jan 23 2021, 05:20 PM

Most people don't realize ugreen is the OEM that makes most of the HDMI cables in the market. Buying direct from ugreen means you're paying less for the same as buying a belkin cable.

Not necessarily if they are certified = standard met. They are only certified for the specific length that the cable was sent in to be tested. But if the same version of the cable is also sold at different lengths, it does NOT mean all the lengths will work either.

I'm very well aware of what the certification does. You're not understanding my point however.

To put it in simpler words:

Let's use this Club3D cable as an example, it is certified under the HDMI 2.1 programme. This cable is only certified for it's length of 1 meter to 3 meters, it is however NOT certified nor tested for the longer lengths that they are also selling which ranges from 10 to 20 meters.

So you cannot just assume that as long as there is a Ultra sticker on it, it automatically means it works.

I have both, they're the same damn cable lol. The difference is just the connector head. Don't pay more for bullshit please.

It's just a PS5 lol but you want to wish people death.

The sales that Sony can generate from the PS5 for the entire SEA region combined can't even match a quarter to that of US or EU.

The loudest fans here are also the smallest fanbase in the world. There is no reason to appease all of you as a priority.

Lol no.
Sony's business has been going uphill since the launch of the PS5, that mentality is exactly why they're where they are.

Because you tak faham what HGIG is doing. It does not matter if your B9 has low HDR brightness, the point is to have the system tone map a game (which supports HGIG) so that it fit in your TV's brightness range.


People don't understand that most games don't use the PS5's internal HGIG tone mapping. AC Valhalla is one example that doesn't follow the system's calibrated HDR that the user set.

Ghost of Tsushima does follow the PS5's internal settings. That's why you cannot just have a one size fits all setting for all games.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Apr 2 2021, 10:57 PM

Well, there is only so much 32 local dimming zones can do. There is a reason why x900h is a popular midrange only TV.

Unfortunately, it's not that simple. Game mode just disables post processing, it doesn't set the optimal HDR settings (without calibration) for you.

But of course, if you're happy with non optimal images then just enjoy. Don't need to go dig the rabbit hole, it gets complicated.


Yup, Convael explained it perfectly.

One last thing to add about AC Valhalla though, the game currently has a bug where the SDR brightness setting is applied on top of the HDR setting. This is different from Odyssey where SDR and HDR settings were separated.

So for example if the SDR brightness is set to 8, it continues to get applied as 8 when you switch to HDR mode. The normal procedure is when a user switch to HDR mode, the game should have separate settings for the HDR space. So what happens now when your SDR's brightness is 8 and then you set the luminance to 800cd? Well... the game isn't actually at 800cd anymore. This is why 1000cd is overblown and people compensate it with lowering the exposure setting, which would then crush shadow detail.

Odyssey had a very good HDR implementation, so I'm unsure why Valhalla had to go and redesign how a wheel works.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Apr 3 2021, 04:17 PM

That's not true either. I bought my PS5 since launch, I've only played 1 game and that's Demon's Souls remake. Been playing everything on PC otherwise.
Consoles is still much more easier to plug and play. It's only TV settings that is a bit more complicated, yet you haven't seen the ordeal of shit you'd have to deal with on PC if something breaks there.

Sometimes Windows 10 update can screw up something (most recently it killed my Xbox One driver), Nvidia drivers are shit and can cause crashes or bad HDR image, AMD radeon drivers has poor performance for no reason on certain games and the list goes on.



Dynamic Tone Mapping just takes the incoming image histogram and then the TV will try and tone map the image on the fly, dynamically hence the name.

It doesn't always work well for all content because the TV is only doing a guesstimate on the histogram (not enough data, not enough processing power too) to tone map a static HDR image. So scenes that are dark can often times be too bright (night time looks like evening) or bright scenes can be overblown. Many people like DTM because it "pops" the image, after all human eyes are very easily influenced by bright shiny objects.

DTM can be disabled in all modes btw.

If you guys look at history, every console that has ever been released - no matter if it's from Sony, Nintendo, Microsoft or even Sega before, the best time to buy a new console is in their 2nd or 3rd year life.

With COVID, this has been pushed to the 3rd year. 2023 is when you'll see the big hitters that will make or break the PS5.

Don't be so hung up about FOMO.

Glad I went all in on PC this gen instead. It's time for consoles to wake the fuck up.

D2 I quit for the time being. Bungo keeps on doing stupid shit with the game.

Mau cheap, mau best, mau nice. You think your ringgit is 1:1 USD ke?

I always tell people that your eyes and ears deteriorate faster than anything else in your body. You best enjoy them while you can, because once you reach a point where your eyes and ears are no longer what they were, it doesn't matter if you have an OLED and a well equipped audio setup.

OLED will always have burn in risk.

But when people fear burn in, they don't think logically. Show me a game where your character doesn't move and the HUD stays static from start to finish. You mean to tell me you don't pause your game and take a shit? The health bar continues to be on during cutscenes? You play games at maximum brightness?

So yeah, there is a risk. Just like there's a risk you could die just by walking out of your house. Point is you can prevent it if you use logic.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Apr 13 2021, 12:14 AM