Not necessary unless you are driving a very old or worn-out engine.

i've checked AMSOIL, 20W50 also got 'racing'
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/SearchRes...px?CategoryID=2

MOTUL.. both 20W60 n 15W50 also got competition/racing name
http://www.motul.com.my/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke01.html

im not sure if this is purely advertising but there must be reason why all of them using the name performance/racing etc on thick oil.. hmmmmm
nontheless, couldnt find any article related

but r u racing?
check properly in motul and redline website. their 15w/20w-50 oil is for endurance race.
and btw, do u know that RACING engine oil cannot use on normal street car.
it is because RACING engine oil doesnt have the detergents to clean up the by products of engine.
thats y they use new RACING engine oil every time they start a race.

He most probably think that by going full throttle for 20 seconds and shifting at from 2nd to 3rd at 7000 rpm is racing and that he needs to get engine oil that has the word 'Racing' or 'Sports' on it. I guess he's never tried pushing the car all out at 7000 rpm from 2nd gear to 4th gear and repeat that process 15 times in Sepang per lap for 30 laps.

---

Added on August 21, 2007, 4:40 pmLIke I said before, if you take your car into the track, your 10W-60 engine oil will feel like 0W30 and will be the same like any other 0W30 engine oil. When you take the dip stick out, oil actually drips like water. So on heavier engine oils you can use it for racing without a problem but when you use it for street, the additional stress actually slows down the engine.

Anyway, go and list all the engine oils you want. I've used Castrol 10W-60 for some years believing that the extra heavy oil will help protect the engine but only to find out that Castrol RS (now Edge Sport) is not the best engine oils around. Its quality is about the same as expensive semi-syn. That was when i stopped using it.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Aug 21 2007, 04:40 PM

nope, im definitely not that type of driver n definitely not rich enough to own high end racing car like u do..
but i juz want full protection for my engine be it during low speed, or fast speed..
since u said 10W40 is good enough for my car, maybe i'll try it next change
thankz for all the sarcastic remark btw

btw, when it is too heavy also
it will bring harm to the car because the pump need to work extra and the engine oil wont reach the crucial parts of engine.

i suggest u to visit autoworld forum in oil section and bobistheoilguy forum

at the moment, for me
i will use max Xw-30 oil.
for 50% town 30% highway 20% redline driving.

1 more, u have to understand the cert on the oil also
like the
* ACEA A3/B4-04
* MB p. 229.5
* BMW LL01
* VW 502.00/505.00
* GM LL A025 / B025

this cert can give u a lot of info in choosing ur engine oil.
eg: BMW LL01 - LL-01 is only for Group IV or Group V based oils.






This post has been edited by ulet: Aug 21 2007, 06:49 PM

thankz for the informative reply
btw, what car are u using? i think xW30 is toooo light for my engine ler XD

yes, u r right
dont jump straight to fully syn

I go for Endless...

You're welcome..

im using waja 1.6 4g18p engine.

i suggest u try 1st Xw-30 and see whether there is significant of engine oil lost.
if there is, upgrade the vicosity to Xw-40.
If there is no oil lost, meaning u are ok to use Xw-30.

btw, im running on 0w-30 for already more than 12,000km and there is no oil lost and my car odometre is 57,000km+.

This post has been edited by ulet: Aug 22 2007, 09:21 AM

now alot is fake 1 la...the ??w-?? sm/cf or what all also got fake 1 now...the best is u try 1st then u will know...hear b4 braxton engine oil?
if i would say its better than the shell 1 and the price is cheaper?

hey guys, need some advise.....after reading your comments....

i am using 10W-40 castrol magnatec......got it from distributor of Castrol after I called into Castrol headquarters.....they gave me address of their distributor in Taman Sea or is it Paramount in PJ.......so this to minimize my chances of getting fake oil..........

just wondering if this is ok for my car.....its kia carens II......its a mini mpv I would say........my driving style can be considered non-spirited......RPM only goes to 2k or 3k before the car changes gear......mostly 2k+.......

i only rev it till 4k or 5k when cutting car using trunk road or going uphill like genting.......

so....just wondering if I should go for petronas fully synthetic of 10W-30 or 5W-30......or should I maintain at 10W-40........

using 10W-40 i change the oil every 5K-6K interval....

my mechanic says if I use the 10W-30 or 5W-30 petronas can change at 10k.........

so...which oild should I go for and change at which interval......thanks....

i wonder, if you change the oil at 10k, what about the oil filter? thought oil filter is recommended to change at 5k

Refer to Ulet's post. If engine consume the thinner oil, just change to thicker oil la.

Oil line has some kind of stop valve- you can change filter without draining out the oil, oil won't come out one - most people do this. After changing the filter, just top up the oil by 150-200ml to refill the new filter with oil.

And some oil filters rated to last very long mileage - 20k km like my Savvy original oil filter.

This post has been edited by hypermount: Aug 22 2007, 08:40 PM

okie....thanks for the advice.....

oil filter for carens is rated at 10k km interval....

I suggest u to start with good FULLY SYNTHETIC Xw-30.
good fully synthetic that i recommend is castrol syntec 0w-30 or the mobil EP 5w-30.
both also can get from myoilstore.com

hmm....okie......but how about petronas brand? fully syn from petronas is good or not? of course assuming that its not fake la......

anyone using penzoil? any comment? i heard that toyota using penzoil bcoz penzoil from umw...correct me if i m wrong

Magnatec is bloody expensive now, initally priced at RM65, now RM78 - RM80. I might consider changing to other brands such as Q8 and etc.