I have just change my tyre today and do the aligment at the same time, the foreman was telling me my car camber was run out so ask me to change the camber, price is RM45 to change or RM25 to adjust it back.
actually I was hear some ppl telling before it is no necessary to change camber coz is useless and normally tyre shop just cheating you so end up I tell the foreman to let me consider first and i did't do anything.
actually is really necessary to change the camber or not?

I do encounter similar situation like you, the mechanic inform me that the camber has run out, so need to fix it back or else the tyre will eat one side <- don't know how to explain in proper english

I heard from other forum, that camber is not necessary to fix it unless your car has been involved in an accident before.

Yup the chmber nut just cost rm8 while they happily charge you rm40 that piss off a lot of people.

some time need to change the screw to adjust the camber....the screw aroundRM20 /pcs

lucky enough if only needed to buy camber nut..
if hondas, need to buy camber kit.. cheapest also more than RM500 already

actually almost every time i do aligment (different place) they also ask me change th camber, at first i just listen and change so now my camber no more original and is replace by adjustable camber.
since i change before did it mean i need to keep going change and change if camber is run out or can just ignore what foreman tell me?
if not change really won't 'eat tyre' like wht he telling me?
what is your opinion?

agreed. there is no way u can adjust camber on a Honda, except for getting the aftermarket adjustable camber kit which costs quite damage to your monthly pocket.

if you don't fix your cambers...your tyres will last only half its lifetime. This is because like what ckkean says - "the tyre will eat one side" which also means much less grip in dry or wet. The other side won't "touch" at all and it will be wasted.

The previous owner of my car had camber problems and although "one side" is new, the "other side" was not safe to drive especially if I'm going outstation.

so u opinion is necessary to change camber if it run out lo? actually i quite worry it eat my trye one side..
normally how long can camber last after change and should i just adjust it or change to a new 1?
anyway feel RM45 is quite expensive..

Go and find the RM 9.90 alignment shop la

Hi bro,

Get to know your camber angle when doing allignment. Running on near stock value can liao~ About -0.8 degree to +0.3 degree should be okay~ Read this somewhere a tyre shop~

Don't get cheated~

Alignment is what's going to determine your tire's longevity... not your chamber.The chamber exists so that you can make alignment adjustments.. on certain cars... chamber nuts are added.. and they're used to pull/push/adjust alignment thus diminishing any unintended toe in/out issues...

Bottom line.Go to ONE tyre shop regularly.. make sure he's providing you with top notch workmanship and from there on.. take his word for it.. tyre shops around the klang valley region have a reputation for f***ing their customers up.. regardless off weather or not you're a regular...they'll bang you inside out each and every time...


If he says that the nut is bent/damaged/no longer usable ask him to show it to you.

i did add 2 camber bolts last time when i change my springs set..

the tyre shop fella said must add to adjust camber then only can get the allignment correct..

so as far as i know camber wont run much if u don kena bang or always hit into holes on the road..(especially big holes)

Some one correct me if im wrong..

but i think 45 bucks a piece is too darn expensive laa

mine is 35 bucks oni...next time adjust from him oso 15 bucks oni

This post has been edited by -dexter-: Aug 30 2007, 12:13 PM

camber will neva run out. . . .
jus tat fella wanna get more commision from on only chop u camber nut. . . .
next time tell tat fella adjust toe in/out only. . .
if tis guy say must change camber nut only can adjust then u can jus walk away cuz he's trying 2 conned u

---

Added on August 31, 2007, 11:23 pmyes!!
he's right. . . .

---

Added on August 31, 2007, 11:24 pmi 2nd it cuz it's suppose 2 b. . . .
otherwise go other shop. . ..

This post has been edited by cheeann: Aug 31 2007, 11:24 PM

change camber or adjust camber?camber screw doesnt need changes so often.afaik camber is the setting of the tilt of the tyre when looking from front or rear.if the tyre ti.lt to which the top goes towards inside the fender is called -ve camber and vice versa .i adjust camber everytime service my car.i think its important camber 'lari' (blame potholes) the tyre will eat one side like others mentioned before, and corner also not syiok

This post has been edited by icyd: Sep 3 2007, 12:50 AM

well,bro....
i can say 100% tat u've been chop everytime also kena adjust camber. . . .
i believe tis shop dunno how 2 adjust d car's toe in/out 4 da car's wear n tear~

some info

"Toe

Toe, simply put, is direction the wheels are pointing. Zero toe would be perfectly parallel wheels pointing straight forward. Toe-out means the front of the tires are farther apart than the rear of the tires. Toe-in means the front of the tires are closer together than the rear of the tires. Toe has different effects on tire wear in the front and in the rear. When the front wheels are toed out, the inside edge of the tire scuff and wear out early. When the front wheels are toed in, the outside edge will scuff and wear out early. However, on rear tires toe usually causes a diagonal cupping wear pattern whether the tires have too much toe in or too much toe out. The diagonal cups are caused by the tires hopping and skipping along the road. It's hard to explain why, but I'll give it a try. Draw an overview of a car with 4 wheels on a piece of paper, make the front wheels parallel, but toe the rear wheels in substantially (say 45 deg. in just to make the demo easier) Now draw lines parallel with the rear tires following their path of travel if they were to roll. You will notice that the lines you have drawn intersect. Since the tires are attached to the car they can not intersect. Instead they roll a bit, then skid outward, roll a bit, then skid outward again. This goes on and on until the tires have diagonal cups worn into the treads where they have been skidding outward. By the way, if you are reading this, and get it, and can write a clearer version, and feel like doing a good deed, and have some spare time, my e-mail address is paul@artsautomotive.com

Camber

Camber is the lean of the wheel. If the top of the wheel tilted away from the car, that is called positive camber. If the top of the wheel is tilted in towards the car, that is called negative camber. Camber can cause a pull to one side or the other depending on the direction of the lean. The car will pull in the direction of the wheel with the most positive camber. However, if both sides have the same amount of negative or positive camber, they will cancel each other out and the car will not pull. Camber can cause premature tire wear, but is not as hard on tires as toe is."

http://www.artsautomotive.com/thealignmentstory.htm

then can u tell me y my tire wear outside more then inside while my front camber is -1.00 both side n my total toe is zero. . . .
it's ok if u can't explain 2 me cuz now many ppl actually understand da real meaning of aligment

maybe u do a lot of high speed cornering kot haha.dangerous u know

yes indeed. . . .
both my satria n kancil is set tis way. . . .
cuz i'm an agresive driver n easily get provoke by ppl on da road. . . .
normally i take corner way much faster than normal ppl without good aligment setup. . . .
i've been working as mechanic 4 d passed 12yrs
n i know a lot workshop's tactic of chopping camber 2 get more commision on their salary. . . .
n do u know tat most 95% of all cars in malaysia will pull slighty a bit 2 da left? ?

respect ur knowledge dude.. i want to ask u how easy/hard the camber will misaligned?coz i do alignment incl camber every 10k-12k km.s it considered redundant ajdusting camber ard this interval?so far after 1 yr 3 mth my tyres are still looking good with 70% tread.

as 4 ur infomation. . . .
camber is not easy 2 mis-alig as there's 2 screw[which u all call it camber after changing it] bolted in real solid tight n there's not way it'll out of alig unless u change absorber or had an accident on ur wheel there... there's no need 2 adjust camber everytime u rotate or do aligment... jus did normal adjusting on da toe in/out will do. . .
unless u're da type of agresive driver like me jus put it ard -0.7 to -1.2 n ur toe set 2 zero
but if u're not an agresive driver like me but u wan stability on da road on high speed then ur camber should b ard -0.6 to -1.0 n toe in by 1.0 to 1.8
i've never put less than -0.5 camber 4 my car as it's very floaty on high speed n cornering not stabil enuf

ive tried his setup, all i can testify its so good

his father's shop is reputable amongst most rally drivers, has a 35 year history, hehe, its that shop around jalan klang lama

so far, less tyre screeching and better cornering

LOL~!!
well,kev. . .
i'm really happy tat u're enjoying it
but do take car in kl's road as more police is out preying on us for their pocket money lo. ..

oh 1 more thing,cheeann,do u adjust ur caster as well?

ic..actually my front left still the original screw, only front right is adjustable camber, as u opinion, should i change my front left to adjustable or leave it as original?
between, how much u shop charge?

wow...you guys change camber on your own? Cool...

LOL
wat car r u driving??
not many cars tat can adjust caster lo. . .
dun get conned by mechanic if u're driving local made cars or honda's car. . .

---

Added on September 3, 2007, 11:47 pmjus leave it alone n dun get conned next time le. . . .

This post has been edited by cheeann: Sep 3 2007, 11:47 PM

For stability it should be toe out and not toe-in. Toe in would give you a more accurate turning feedback but unstable on the straights. Toe-out would give you stability on the straights as the steering will always try to go back to straight position. The best setting should be zero toe to minimise tyre scrubbing and extend tyre wear. As for camber, it depends on the suspension settings. Softer suspension will require less static camber since the car rolls on the soft suspension creating more variable camber. Stiffer suspension does not this issue and can work with more static camber.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Sep 4 2007, 09:46 AM

well,bro. . .
all i can jus say u're 'terbalik' liao
but i dowan 2 argue wit u s i'm not good in explaining in words in super detail
but thru out my exprience in my work shop most of my 1st time customer like wat u think but after tat i show them b4 n after setting n they realise tat they've been cheated n brain wash by most of d shop which always chop them 4 their camber...

Ooppss.. sorry.. I write terbalik.. correct description to wrong term... it's been a while since I last required any toe settings on my car as they all run neutral.

f***ing con alignment shops deserve to be banned for life.

I was one of their victims but not anymore. Sometimes it's silly to change the original camber screws in perfect condition with some shitty quality metal so-called adjustable camber screws on a car that age less than a year. I had my 8 months vios camber screws changed without any notification until the bill came. Luckily I kept the original screws and changed it back at Toyota SC when the alignment went out just after 2 months fixing the shitty quality adjustable camber screws.

mean i can leave my front left as original do not need do any changer?
i remember my car also set toe = 0, so should i change the toe setting?
u shop in old klang road which part? wht is the price for toe setting/aligment/camber adjust?? maybe i can bring my car for u to do align.

v do aligment on toe in/out only. . .
unless u request 4 more stability then will of cuz set 4 correct camber setup 4 u...
jus normal alig for 2front wheel is 20 n 4wheel aligment is 30
if u wanna do camber then 2 side 30

Never come across changing chamber before, most of the time they will only ask wanna adjust chamber or not.

confuse, actually aligment on toe = normal aligment not??
i though most time we only do 2 front wheel aligment, is no true ?
can pm me u shop location? thanks.

dun be confuse. . .
yes,either front 2 or all 4 wheels depending on wat car is tat...
proper aligment set according 2 proper toe
cuz normally stock new car's camber is good enuf 2 set normal alig
unless da car is secondhand then v dunno how last owner wrack da car la
btw where r u from??

This post has been edited by cheeann: Sep 8 2007, 10:04 AM

er..so when we did normal aligmant is include toe aligment not?
i staying puchong.. still no sure wht is u shop name.

normal aligment jus adjust then toe in/out only. . .

just do my aligment for the recommend old klang road shop..
notice my camber is around 0.4++ (forget positive or negetive), the foreman tell me camber like that is ok, no need to anything.
n he has set my toe to 1.0.

but if the bushing worn out it will also affect the camber what ?

then how if wanna prolong the time before changing bushing ?

my dad's shop??
in tire shop they r called tireman not foreman
btw bushs worn out ot not doesn't effect anything on ur camber la. . . .
it'll only effect wen u change d bushs cuz u need 2 uninstall it 2 change~

yes, i have recommand another friend go there also. now looking for good car service shop..

so u're statisfy wit da job i recommended u 2 go? ?
wat car r u driving??
perhaps i can do 4 u,if u're driving a local made car~

yes.
i driving kenari..
u open a car service shop?? u did jus normal service or include everything?

cheeann, can u adjust camber for me?my car iswara ab.my current setting is -0.35 left,-0.45 right.the shop i did alignment refused to set the camber more negative than that even i told him to.he said that setting cun already.can i adjust camber alone without offsetting toe?

where u do ur alignment? ?

kelana jaya near fastfik

y do u wanna adjust alignment like tat? ?
u wan more stable at higher speed issit? ?

hi all,

sorry fren, tumpang your post, dun wan to open another post

I am having this problem since 2 yrs already...

my perdana once termasuk a pothole, it was a horrible sound till my tyre bengkak, arm bengkok, and from that day on my car started to pull to left....

I had replaced the tyre and arm and it still went to the left... if i hold my steering it will go straight, but leave it... it will pull to the left...

I did many things to rectify my problem but i still it pulls to one side slightly...
- changed my arms
- changed my rims
- changed my tyres
- pumped my knuckles coz perdana no nut
- replaced steering rack
- changed my cross member.. the entire front bottom metal which holds the rack, arms...

It has improved 80%, but i have gone to countless shops and got con countless times... maybe my face like can con 1...

cheeann,

what shop you have ?... can you help ?... I need to do;
- solve my car pulling to the left
- my steering even feels heavy
plus service
- i need to change/service my brake kits/pads (using twinpot, must get pajero one - perdana twinturbo FYI)
- change arms/absorber/bushes
- also if u can guarentee car will not tarik sebelah, i will buy new tyres for all 4... 225/45/R17, and pls dun mess with camber settings to make it go straight... got once 1 fella guarentee me... end up screwing the chamber setting, car went straight for a while then tyre started to makan tepi damn fast..

i want better cornering.like ur setting u mentioned camber -1 toe 0 rite?

This post has been edited by icyd: Oct 18 2007, 07:21 PM

if u dun mind let me have a look 1st??
btw ur car's camber cannot b set easily as wat other ppl in other workshop things
camber setting it's a fix d n cannot simply touch as tis car more a like a old honda car
n i guess tat fella dunno how 2 set up a car's alignmet~

---

Added on October 18, 2007, 7:30 pmu wan better cornering??
s u know ur car's rear alignment cannot b adjust n there's a limitation wen u take cornering but i dun normally simply set camber till by -1.0 cuz tat setting is kind for hardcore street racing on cornering but if u wan better cornering than usual a bit then it can b done

This post has been edited by cheeann: Oct 18 2007, 07:30 PM

pm me your number and location.. i think next week i will have sometime to come and see you...

thanks

do u have a shop?

of course dun have la
but my dad does ma~
hahahaa~

if i lower the car, which cause the top of the front tyre to tilt slightly more inside also no need to use camber nut?

need advise....

no need la. . . .
lower means more stabil. . .
if u decrease d camber then ur car not stable d. . . .

Hi friend, only know you got good shop in old klang road. Don't mind PM me the location.
I too got aligment problem, when driving straight. I had to adjust my steering one side. And I check my tyre confirm already makan.

Thx

lolz since this is turning into a camber + alignment discussion, i'd like to ask a question to cheeann, soulfly, sleepwalker and the other pros

my previous setup was -2 degree camber on the front tyres, with 0 toe out / in. i was using stock (very soft) absorbers then

when i changed to stiffer short stroke absorbers, the shop recommended me to set -1.5 degree camber, and 1.5 toe out.

Previously during hard cornering, when the front starts to lose grip, i'd get loud screeching noises and loads of understeer
now, when the front starts to lose grip, it's pretty silent. I only hear "frupp frupp frupp" sounds, and the car slides more neutrally instead of understeering all the way.
Both were on the same route, and same dry mornings. Tyres were on the same PSI, 34 for the front o.O

Would a camber and toe out adjustment reduce the screeching noises, or issit just the stiffer shocks at work? Btw, i drive a clumsy myvi


Thanks for reading and sorry for the length

fuh lau~
-2 leh??
i salute u man~
u masuk rally ker???
normally between -1.0 to -1.5 n zero toe will b good enuf~
i would say d guy who set ur toe is wrong liao~
u'll totally exprience ur tire wear inside more than outside
unless u wanna go track n play~
in street performance -1.5 camber wit zero toe is good enuf~

wah dun la ><"
noobs like us love experimenting
then our wallets oso sakit after that, hahaha
hurm, i think i remember a friend of mine had them at -3, but within 2 weeks he could see the immense wear.. cepat cepat set back to -1.5

unfortunately i dont go for track.. but just enjoy some sunday morning drive up hilly areas

r u sure ur fren set -3? ?
siao man~
those setting is for rally car's setting d~

yeah he did
even without bending down, you could see how tilted his front tyres were

nvm la~
he happy then can d~

Haha everytime i wanna change my camber,i just bring my own 1 since last time my dad machined for me out of some industrial galvanised steel,same as the stock wira one but better material.

Everytime do alignment or balancing confirm they ask wanna change camber,sudah makan,tayar botak woh,ini itu..ill just tell da fella to do the alignment the rest dont touch..kurang ajar felas always trying to con

hey cheeann brother ,
your price still valid ?
if i can arrange my time,
i'm coming to your shop next friday.
you will be there right ?

i really need some experience guys check on my tyres...

This post has been edited by ahpaul82: Feb 17 2008, 12:51 AM

only if u're free lo~
jus give me a call 1st~

this is a good thread. sorry for bumping it after some time.

i m driving a kancil n i think its time to do alignment n balancing dy. my question is, to what figure i must the toe n camber n alignment (whichever it is) if i want my tires to last longer n at the same time take corners confidently at moderate to low speed? tires need to be long lasting, thats more important. cornering not so cuz i dont drive fast at all times.

my tyre makan one side la.. what should I do?

send for allignment and see which side not alligned properly....

Bro,

Pls pm me ya dad's shop. Tyres on my vios keeps wearing out on the outside esp at the front passenger side. Toyota say no probelm wif suspension or arm but my micelin tyres has worn out damn fast. Need expert advise quick. Tq

hello, went to get my alignment done today, and the mech said I needed new camber screws.

I just had my front absorbers changed, so the alignment was way out.

He charged me rm30 per side and put 2 screws in?
Was this necessary?
Really need to change the screws? He told me both tyres were tilted inwards.

---

Added on November 18, 2011, 12:45 amLoL

nvm, after some looking around I realize this topic has been EXTENSIVELY discussed. Ignore my noob-ness!

This post has been edited by zero88: Nov 18 2011, 12:45 AM

Well, it can happen or you may have been conned, so question is do you know the tyre shop well??

legit question,

Should d adjustable camber bolts be placed in the front upper or the front lower clevis hole in the front knuckles ?

Say, changing from non adjustable bolts to the adjustable ones?

Read somewhere that putting it in the upper clevis will cause the bolt to fail/bent faster....?

Have seen them fit to upper only.....

if you are at KL, please try Ah Liew Tayar shop @ http://g.co/maps/65qz7http://g.co/maps/65qz7

recommended by forumer and i did went there, true, the first tyre shop that told me chamber can be adjust, no need change.

Thanks!

Camber nut need alwis change one meh?

I just install 1 time only,then other time just adjust using that nut only ~

With negative camber around 1-1.5 Deg,genting hill climb become much fun without understeer

That would only mean that your car already has an adjustable camber screw. By default most cars comes with a straight camber screw which cannot adjust the camber without first changing the screw.

---

Added on November 25, 2011, 3:46 pmHere's where the one bad apple spoils the whole basket story comes true. For most cars out of the factory do not have adjustable camber screw. Most also have very little negative camber and will cause the tyre to wear out the outsides faster. However, some workshops take advantage of this and con the customer to change the screw all the time.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Nov 25 2011, 03:46 PM

Agreed.....


Greed..........

I wish I can read this post earlier. I got my 2 years old car (Proton Saga BLM). I went to service at Klang area, ask them adjust my alignment. I found that when I drive my car on the straight road, I leave my steering, my car will go to left side.

When I go to the shop, the tireman, show me the computer screen, say I am rude driver. (I don't think, I just drive my car to office in working day, 10km return only -20minutes drive each way). The screen show that one front tire alignment is gone (which show in red color)

He asked me to change the camber. Said Proton Saga is normal to get into this situation. He asked me to change for adjustable camber which is cost RM48 per one. As the image below


If not they are not able to do the alignment. Well this is my first time do my car alignment, after I read this post I believe I get con...

Is it a must to change a camber? or next time I just tell them just adjust the toe in-out is enough, please advice.

Thanks!

This post has been edited by shiroamada: Feb 13 2012, 10:59 AM

Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience

I think I have been a victim of such conmen.

Pls do not patronise this tyre shop in seapark. I felt something suspicious when they had showed me my alignment was out by 3 degrees and said it would affect my tires due to uneven wear. Sounded dubious. They charged me RM 75 each bolt and nut?!!!

Plus RM 25 for labour. It will be my last time there for sure. I gave them a chance for a first time business and they lost me at hello.


SEN SIN TYRE SERVICES SDN BHD
19 Jalan 21/11B, Sea ParkTEL.03-78750090

I was skeptical as well when my tireman ask me to add chamber nut on my 2 years old persona

then he jack up the car and he ask to to look.

when i look at it, my tire was slightly

/ \

then he show me the tires. makan 1 side liao.

so after add, the tire become vertical again.

Guess theres some genuine case where we need to add chamber nut.

Unless you whack potholes, got into accident etc, your camber would not go out of alignment easily.

The tyre shop that I go to, will have different camber reading, even when done back to back. But the toe readings are consistent. That means their machine is not well calibrated for camber. But for that's OK because the shop never asked me to adjust my camber. He says as long as the tire wears evenly it should be fine.

If a shop is unwilling to do toe adjustments if they don't adjust cambers, I'd go to another shop.

I think this tread should be pinned, so that more people is aware (more of BEWARE) of this "chamber nut" thingy.

I went to change my all 4 tyres today. So naturally request to do the alignment also. Then, the tyre guy told me i need to do chambering also, he said if want to do is +RM 120 for front set and another RM 120 for rear set. I looked at my old tyres which is now laying on the ground, didn't see any uneven wear or eat one side type of wear.

I was very very puzzled , as i thought alignment means align both the Toe and Chamber???? So i told him that last time i've ALREADY changed (read: CONNED , at another tyre shop) my front to the "adjustable chamber nut" already. So you should be able to adjust it no problem. Then he told me no need to buy new adjustable chamber nut, but still to adjust the chamber need RM 60. So front set RM 60 + rear set Rm 120..... total Rm 180

So i told him no i don't want do chamber, just continue do your whatever alignment it is..

I really do think need to pin this thread to bring awareness to all

Edit: Should be pinned under "Tyre Talk" i think?

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 6 2013, 09:07 PM

My Vios 2009 b4 add camber still worm out outer part tires so install camber at front both side still worm out at side and the alignment machine giving wrong reading at many workshop.

Tires worm outer part mean tires are siting inside toward car inside but machine reading tires is sitting out toward car chassis.

Really headache the unsolved problem since 2009!!!!!!!


Any sifu encounter this problem b4 especially vios 2007 onward user. Thanks in advanced

i dont know about you guys, but to me, changing camber bolt is a con to me. iinm, original assembly of the absorber doesnt require camber bolt at all, the bolt is a normal bolt iinm, so the wheels is in neutral position.

but since im track kaki, i ran on -2° daily. we bought camber bolt in dirt cheap price..
i can confirm one thing to you guys out there that camber nut isn't priced at RM50-RM80

This post has been edited by AlexLee277: Sep 8 2013, 03:03 AM

i paid RM 80 each for it, 2 units, total RM 160.....
If only i can see this thread earlier.

I remember having a chat with a experienced tyre guy, he told me this story@mode of operandi about chamber nut I wish to share with fellow lyf member.

1.) Ordinary car do not need adjustable chamber nut, only track car need it.

2.) Cost of this adjustable chamber nut only a few ringgit but sell at 80 ringgit.

3.) Tyre shop staff r instructed by their boss to make a "show" to sell this adjustable chamber nut to customers as the profit margin is huge, & staff get commission from selling it.

4.) Adjustable chamber nut are made of cheap rainbow coated metal normal chamber nut been sent to machine shop to have it trimmed so that it can be adjustable, this in fact cause the chamber nut to become weaker as the metal been trimmed, ur chamber need more adjustment (meaning they got more business) this trimmed chamber nut too tends to bend easily (so they can sell more to u)

5.) Show time : Taukeh ur car chamber very out (show u reading on computer) cannot adjust alignment need to add adjustable chamber nut, if not your tyre will botak easily, so sell u a RM 5 cheapo adjustable chamber nut for RM 80 (16 X profit).

6.) They would usually drive ur car for test drive then go somewhere to manually adhust ur steering.

7.) Actually the fellow would not tell u that sometime ur need to adjust ur castor as well, that why u constantly need to sent back to them for readjustment, offcoz u become water fish more often.
8.) In fact our road r deliberately been surfaced slightly tilt so that water would flow into the drain to reduce aquaplaning, so we don't really need a perfect alignment.

Hope no more LYF readers become water fish "Soh Chai" after this.

This post has been edited by jolokia: Sep 8 2013, 12:13 PM

now you know, this is your first and last time kena con. haha.
btw spare part shop do sell the original bolt/nut. usually mechanice should know at least for proton is for sure la

definitely, this is what i wanted to type earlier, but due to early morning duty, cannot rush the wall of text. good job there pointing the fact my friend

yes yes.. that's what they did to me, both tyre shop.


so i'm driving around with cheapo nut in my car?? should i go look for my OEM nut, buy back and install??

Also, normally when we say do alignment which cost around RM 20, what is included actually?? does it align the Toe, Chamber, and castor?? Or only Toe?? Or only Toe and Chamber??

i face the same problem too!
after you change the camber, your car still move to left side?

exactly the same as mine but i bought those at RM60 per piece. so, total was RM120 (for a pairs) + RM15 (workmanship) = RM135. The reason is they said couldn't adjust the factory/ original chamber so need to change to that kind of adjustable chamber. i asked them to return back both my original chamber though

i would like to ask what is best alignment value that we can ask from them? sorry really newbie here. it was my 1st time doing alignment... and seriously i don't know whether i am or not being conned

used to get this same %^&$ from the tyre shop in sg dua, penang (same row as mcd)

after going to another recommended shop in town (hock cheong-opposite prangin mall area)- never once had a problem.

just pay for allignment n ballancing and you r off to go.