no problem.

note that the plate in your post is mainly for newer generations of gk64 hot-swap. i'm not sure if it will fit to non-gk64 cases.

Hi guys, I’m new here!

I will be buying my first wireless mechanical keyboard soon, and I’ve been eyeing on Keychron K2 V2 (Hot Swap) version for a while, so I would like to ask all mech keyboard sifus here before I place order the keyboard, if the aftermarket Dye-Sub PBT Keycap set sold from their official site worth buying? If not, what are the good alternatives and where can I buy them?

Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by Cw_Huan89: Dec 22 2020, 11:25 AM

sifu sifu sekalian, i just got myself a xiaomi brand mechanical keyboard.


The feedback was not what i expected. Its way too mushy for me, which to the extend that my old membrane keyboard feels much nicer.
and the keycaps are too high for me.

Question: Are those cherry switches in the market compatible with all mechanical keyboard?
mine has the led backlight too, do i need to buy special ones for it?

*i know its gonna cost me to replace all the buttons, but i would like to survey first before deciding the next step.
thanks!

there are users at mymkb fb group, so maybe they have better answers for you.

as for after-market dye-sub options, other than enjoypbt, there are several makers that make ok-ish key cap sets at taobao, supporting different key cap profiles also (cherry, np, pg, xda, dsa, etc.)

you might wanna take a look at enjoypbt's double-shot abs (cherry profile) as well.

there are many types of mechanical keyboards that make use of different key switch technologies, e.g., cherry mx style (the most common), electro capacitive/topre, optical, and low-profile. in general, as long as the board uses cherry mx style switches, then it's very likely to support cherry mx.

if your board is a hot-swap, then swapping switches should be easy. if it's not, you will go through soldering and desoldering process to get it done.

by the way, mushiness, scratchiness, pings and crunchy sound from springs are common characteristics of commercial boards, usually with bad stabilizers.

Okay will check them out! Thanks a lot sifu!

This is a very detailed explanation for me who is planning a 2nd customized kbd. Customizing a kbd has so many things to consider... seems like cannot rambang-rambang buy parts... haiz. My first customized was built by sum1 else so i am literally thankful for the builder, after testing JWK stabilizers, ePBT caps, non-cherry, ... there seems like no more turning back from this deep hole.

Thank you.

Thank you Horns.

you're welcome

yes, planning is important. before that, you should have essential ideas on each part first, including layout, switch, plate, pcb, stabilizer, case, mods (which include things like lube, springs, plate foam, case foam, screws, etc), firmware, and keyboard construction. based on own preferences, you list down the parts that you wanna use, and then look for them, making sure that they are fully compatible to each other.

honestly, it's impossible to learn all these in one-go. just take your time, learn as you go. it's a hobby. there is no need to rush. eventually, you will be capable of identifying better choices in each part, and combine them to make optimal builds for yourself.

alternatively, you can also start with a base kit, which include a default set of parts already, then you can expand from there. if possible, get one that offers both hot-swap and solderable pcbs. switch hot-swapping helps a lot.

thanks for the clarification.
found a youtube video, and the thing i dreaded for is real.

the caps and switches are not hotswap type.
guess i have to get use to it, and save for a new one in the future.

Keycaps can be changed easily.

Switches still can be changed, requires a bit more determination. Or some money to pay someone else to do it...

You bought red switches right?
That's why almost no feedback.


Blue have the most feedback but also the loudest, brown somewhere in between.
There's many other colors, each with slightly different tactile and sound.

Yea. Red if i not mistaken. Mati mati thought red = powerful.
So the next kb if i wan the most tactile, i should be going for blue, rite?

Any recommendation for the following criteria?
:must be litted. White is fine. No need rgb.
Very/mostest tactile feedback. (i dont mind the noise)
Full anti ghosting. Heavy base. Full size kb.
Budget rm200 max. (or its too low for a kb like that?)

Hey guys, my friend has been looking for a Ducky Duck Shine 7 Full Keyboard Blue switch, but seems like market lacking stock. Tried C-Zone and Sun-Cycle. Do you guys know where we can possible get our hands on 1 ?

Choices would have been ample if he was ok with non RGB, but he wanted the blink blink, lol ...

Direct competitor of the Shine 7:
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/ikbc-mf1...wBoC_J4QAvD_BwE

If want the most tactile, I think will be blue. I actually only know about that 3 colors lol, there might be something even better tactile than blue.
I feel it really comes down to comparison, how does X switches/keyboard feel with what you have been using.
I first use mechanical keyboard is with blue switches, very tactile but very loud. Got complained because too loud.
Change to brown switches, immediately dislike how less tactile it feel but continue using it as much quieter.
Now used to the feel already, plus I didn't touch my blue switches anymore as worry I might dislike my brown switches again.
Now thinking back, I feel typing with blue switches give more satisfaction than now using brown switches, only it is too loud.

Since you now using red switches, either go to brown or blue will give you feeling of better tactile. But brown more softer while blue more loud.
RM200 can get normal keyboard with cheap switches, don't know can get Cherry switches or not. Maybe others know better.

I'm still new to mech keyboard and I just did some research by myself and what I said is purely based on my understanding
Both blue and brown are tactile switch but if you search for the description they will mention blue is tactile and CLICKY while brown is tactile and SILENT
There is a difference between them
If you wanna use a mechanical keyboard and annoy the shxt out of your colleague or your roommate because you hate them, definitely go for blue switch
Brown is a more "subtle" version of blue switch as it does has the "bump" feeling of the blue switch but with much lower noise
If you are going for the clicky blue switches, a keyboard with outemu blue switch, kailh bronze, gold, box white, box jade, box navy, gateron blue or green are some good choices

Personally, I'm using outemu blue switch because of its "crispy" clicking noise that to me sounds like an authentic typewriter sound. (YES I LOVE LISTEN TO THEM
But it is best that you go to the computer shop to actually try them out if you never press on those switches before.

This is exactly how I feel when I first press on brown switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bc32Fv4P0tw
But still, it is purely your own preference.

Depends on whether you want full size or TKL version, the price can differ. Not sure you can accept until +-RM250
If you are staying in KL area then you can use the information below as reference since I just went to Lowyat plaza a few days ago and here what the staff told me, but some of the prices might be wrong as I just barely remember the price.
If you are staying in other places you can also refer to the computer shops there or just shopee FTW

C-ZONE: Tecware Phantom RGB TKL RM 170; Tecware Phantom RGB full size RM199 but very low in stock; Tecware Phantom Low profile RGB RM170 something I don't exactly remember, the low profile indicates that the switches have shorter travel distance meaning it is much easier to bottoming out.
Top Maid: Cougar Vantar MX RM250; Sades Sickle Wired, side RGB and surprisingly with cherry mx switches, at least that's what the staff told me and it is printed on the box, around RM200?
Viewnet: Nothing much by the time I went there, only found a few keyboards like Razer Cynosa with rubber dome
Sri Computer: CM CK350 RM250 (I personally own this and it is awesome for a budget keyboard), Gaming Freak MXRGB9 RM179, Armageddon series (I didn't ask for the price but I heard they are quite cheap so you might wanna check it out)

Personally, I think the Tecware Phantom series are quite good as they are cheap and hot swappable but seems like they are low in stock everywhere, the staff there told me that the supplier didn't provide them enough stock so if you wanna buy them consider buying them online through shopee. If you are willing to pay a bit higher, Tecware Phantom Elite is also a good choice as they are using Kailh or Gateron switches which is a better alternative for outemu switches but yea, they are low in stock too even in shopee.

I got my Leopold FC900R jz 3 days ago, and I wanna try for some time first before sharing my experience of using it. At first, it was quite hard to get used to it, as it has a lighter operating force compared to the other keyboards, so it feels like u r not pressing anything, but after using it for quite some time, it feels really comfortable on typing.

The quality of the keyboard is really nice, pretty solid I would say. It's very heavy though. Overall, I really like the keyboard, thanks a lot niakulah for recommending it . I'm glad I came here to ask b4 purchasing a mechanical keyboard.

Brown is not same tactile but just quieter than blue. I tried blue and brown, blue have more of the resistance to bump than brown. The video you posted best described about brown, not here nor there. Cherry Brown have actuation force less than blue by about 5gm.

yes, we all have different preferences. it's better to experience every switch type first-hand to find out whether or not you like them.

this is also why for beginners, i think it's good to have a hot-swap board with pcb that has kailh/gateron switch sockets and supports 5-pin switches. with it, all you need is to get like 30 switches from each switch type to try out. (to cover alphas and modifier keys) it's more economical than to spend on a whole board for different switches.

sweet. until today, leopold, varmilo and filco are still top-of-the-line, in terms of commercial board options. while they are not flashy at all by today's standards, the typing experience on them is still preferred by many.

I'm somewhat curious that you would describe reds as mushy. Maybe what you are looking for is a heavier spring weight?

If you can't find a physical shop to try out different switches, get yourself a switch tester. A simple one like this will do:
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.c5Jpi

If you want to really dive into this rabbit hole, this one has a lot of the currently "in" switches:
MYR 83.30 3%OFF | Switch Tester for Mechanical Keyboard Switches for test
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0juLJT

before i write about sp-star grey, here is a brief note on jwick switches.

jwick is the 'actual' brand name for switches made by jwk, which is behind waves after waves of oem custom/recolored switches for the past years. contrary to those custom switches, jwick switches are affordable (at 0.60myr each), mass-produced by jwk. they are at the same price point as gateron's famous affordable lineup, such as ks-3. currently, this series of jwick is mainly sold by Everglide, consisting of 3 linear with different spring weights, i.e. 江小白 white (37g), 江小红 red (60g), and 江小黄 yellow (65g)



here are some observations:

1. housing. its switch top is pc, while the bottom housing is nylon, 5-pin/pcb-mount. normally, with this kind of pc/nylon combo at that price range, switch top wobbles are imminent. (compared to gateron's equivalents). however, at stock, jwick switches show minimal to no wobbles (probably because what i have now is from the initial batch, made by molds that are still new);

2. slider. they have relatively minimal stem wobbles. on the other hand, gateron switches have significant stem wobbles;

3. springs. the stock springs have some levels of pings, and they make crunchy sound. lubing with oil like krytox gpl 105 will fix this;

4. smoothness. jwick switches is relatively smooth. usually, tighter tolerance (i.e. minimal stem wobbles) means more frictions. (like cherry mx; it's the main source of scratchiness in them) however, this is not obvious in jwick switches at stock.

imo, they are good alternatives to gateron switches in general, if you preferred the qualities above.

as usual, if you modified these switches, it's better to add switch films to secure the housings properly, to prevent switch top wobbles.

This post has been edited by horns: Dec 24 2020, 08:53 PM