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 [V32] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club

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horns
post Jun 26 2020, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(amyhs99 @ Jun 26 2020, 07:39 PM)
Anyone having problem installing Logitech Ghub on their machine? The Ghub installer just stuck on hovering and landing forever.

Opened a support ticket to Logitech but never get a reply.  sad.gif

https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/community...ing-and-landing
user posted image
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i just did a clean install of w10 2004 build 19041.331 last weekend. ghub is fine.
horns
post Jun 27 2020, 12:31 AM

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QUOTE(amyhs99 @ Jun 26 2020, 11:38 PM)
I also did a clean install of w10 on my Surface Laptop 3, both of i5 and i7 version facing the same issue. Not sure if there is some problem with the pre-loaded Windows.

Old dell laptop with w10 was fine, only the Surface is giving problems. sweat.gif
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if this is the case it should be related to the hardware, i.e. surface. it's possible that surface can cause incompatibility issues.
horns
post Jun 27 2020, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 27 2020, 12:24 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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come on you know it's a pretty good experience smile.gif

for the weird key registering issue, i had such incidents when:
1. i over-tightened screws onto the case (tray-mount, so it might cause pressure to the pcb); or
2. when there is too much pressure on pcb from the foams, usually from bottom case; or
3. the pcb had direct contact to metal, and caused short circuit.

as for the stabilizer mod, usually i just put a layer of ptfe tape on the side where the lock is located. the thickness of ptfe tape is 0.25mm. usually it will not move anymore after application. for stabilizer tuning, it's still about making sure the wire is straight, with both tips lubed and pointing at the same angle, and the housings and sliders are lubed.
horns
post Jun 27 2020, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(limtekshi @ Jun 27 2020, 03:25 AM)
hi there, am new here with zero knowledge on mechanical keyboards.

Is there any shops in KL people can recommend to test out the range of keyboards switches to know what suits me best?

Can someone recommend me a few budget beginner full-size (with numpad) keyboard to start of with?
perhaps a cheap one, and another slightly pricier one that you think its worth to spend a little more on.
usage for daily work comp, not much a gamer, just casual one so no need super good one, most importantly a nice typing experience
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lyp in kl; digital mall in pj

tecware phantom elite might be ok for you. you can pm quovadis123 for this.

you can also use the group search of mymkb fb group page to look for suggestions (keyword: crowdsourcing), https://www.facebook.com/groups/MalaysiaMechanicalKeyboard/

QUOTE(Calvin kuek @ Jun 27 2020, 09:04 AM)
Hi, is there anywhere in lowyat selling Tecware keyboardd? The tecware phantom elite is sold out on the online shopping apps.
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you can pm quovadis123 for it

QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 27 2020, 09:46 AM)
Typing experience or modding experience tongue.gif
The typing sure as hell is awesome. It's fully functional even without right alt. That's what keeping me sane and happy with my keeb.

Yeah my plate-foam-PCB sandwich is definitely very tight. I even purposely retightened a few switches by pushing it in while melting the solder joints. Not sure where or how I can release the pressure. Maybe just melt all/most joints and let the pressure push the switch to whatever level. I worry about inconsistent feel and height though.
Trima kasiiih.
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both hehe

my best guess is that it's probably the area around the bottom row. (i.e., row 4 and bottom row)
horns
post Jun 27 2020, 08:48 PM

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QUOTE(Chryos1029 @ Jun 27 2020, 11:28 AM)
user posted image

Thanks for the suggestions previously regarding the linear switch.
Been using Topre for a while and finally back to the Cherry Clone game.

KBDFans Pebble built with 62g FFF Switch (Lubed with Krytox 205g0)

Typing Sound
https://youtu.be/M0o0SVe5Xeg
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switches made by jwk really hits the scene by storm smile.gif
horns
post Jun 28 2020, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 27 2020, 11:15 PM)
Well, tried it and didn't work. Loosened all along the 4 edges and 2 bottom rows. Then on a hunch I removed both Ctrls and LAlt to see if RAlt will behave. No joy.

Tightened everything back up again, and now there's a slight rattle on 1 side of space bar. Then realised I can't remove the stab even with the switch removed because of the foam. Sigh...

My wallet is scared about what I'm going to do tomorrow night when a few units of kbd19x are going on sale.
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this has something to do with how they are wired. not sure if you can find the correct matrix that got affected. imo the better bet is to desolder all switches and start over.

i do leave space for a chance to take off plate-mount stabilizers, because i usually screw them up.

to make things easier for self repairs, use true 63/38 solder wires like kester or mechanic, and a good desoldering pump. it helps me a lot especially during the switch desoldering process.
horns
post Jun 28 2020, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 28 2020, 01:01 AM)
I'm using a generic 63/37. Don't know why it's actually harder to suck up than the factory lead free solder. Maybe it's my soldering technique.
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if possible, use true 63/37. it's supposed to be much easier to suck it up. i use 350c, touch the joint with tinned soldering iron for a second or two, then release the primed desoldering pump. just did it just now to fix my backspace on this 60%.
horns
post Jun 28 2020, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 28 2020, 09:36 AM)
What defines a 'true' 63/37? I'm using this:
RM6.00  | 50G 100G 63/37 60/40 99.3 Soldering Lead Wire Solder Lead Free 0.3MM 0.8MM 1.0MM Rosin Core Flux Tin Copper Sn Pb Cu | https://s.lazada.com.my/s.bsdbi

I have my cheapo desoldering iron that I reviewed in the last thread. While it does get hot enough to melt my 63/37 joints, it can't suck it cleanly like it did the lead free solder. The pump action is also slow like somehow my solder/soldering technique created an air tight seal that the factory did not. Really don't know how to explain it better.

Edit: oh I'm also not using a soldering station, so no temp settings here. Still using my Hakko Presto with Hakko chisel tip.
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the true 63/37 solder is supposed to be relatively easier to solder and desolder, compared to 60/40, or lead free solder.

the problem is that some brands, like the one you're using, labelled everything as 63/37, but its actual content is determined by model number, especially the variant of the same model number. (model a, b-1, etc.) to avoid such confusions, just grab something like mechanic hx-t100. you can find it at shopee.

imo the slow pump action might mean it's cloaked. just clean up the desoldering pump regularly. soldering irons with temperature control are more like convenience. i don't think it's your issue.

edit:

for now i'm using kester (flux 245; core 58; 0.6mm). it flows very nicely. i learned to feed solder at a certain length for each joint to avoid overflowing.


This post has been edited by horns: Jun 28 2020, 12:57 PM
horns
post Jun 28 2020, 01:46 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 28 2020, 01:10 PM)
Pump is not clogged, it works fine in the air and also if I put the mouth flat on a clear piece of PCB (while cold). But put it in a 63/37 solder joint and melt it and it becomes slow. Did not happen with the lead free solder. I wish I had another prebuilt board with lead free solder joints to confirm this but I don't.
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maybe you should try out that mechanic 63/37 solder. it should help a lot imo. for much better maintenance in the future, it's better to spend on good quality solder wires, as suggested by veterans like GRexer and quovadis123

tbh i'm a noob in soldering and desoldering. however with the right tools, i can manage my builds now. basically they are just:

1. a soldering iron with functional temperature control, 3.2d chisel tip, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hA9ehTmEfvM (with copper mod, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtgjhz5sLA8)
2. a hakko sppon 20g desoldering pump; and
3. a spool of kester solder.

i do have decent soldering stations, but most of the times i just use the above.

This post has been edited by horns: Jun 28 2020, 01:47 PM
horns
post Jun 28 2020, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 28 2020, 04:26 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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right, that's the one from mechanic. it's really better to invest on good solder wires like kester for expensive kits.

thanks a lot for sharing your technique with flux and wick. as long as it's practical to perform effective desoldering, it's really good enough.

to me, the one in your picture is flux. solder paste should be the type that is used for bga soldering, i.e., it has solder inside.
horns
post Jun 28 2020, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(ShadowFiendZXC @ Jun 28 2020, 03:35 PM)
how is everglide green bamboo compared to holy panda? I saw some reviews from grexer and others in fb mkb group, macam very good.

I bought some gateron browns from quadivos (already got them), but keyboard parts are still coming in and now i already think that i cant be satisfied with gateron browns.

i see drop got holy panda gb ongoing.

GG really rabbit hole
cry.gif  cry.gif  cry.gif
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just get what you want, according to your own pace.
horns
post Jun 29 2020, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 28 2020, 10:28 PM)
[attachmentid=10525040]
I just can't do it. Sorry. Chickened out.

Just a few days ago I saw someone selling KBD19X built with Zilents on mechmarket for only USD350.

A brand new one, kit only, is costing me USD310? Naaa. Even though in my heart I know I'm buying to use and not to flip, it just doesn't feel good to me.

Edit. P.s. sale started at 10pm and there's like 23 units left, so if you are reading this shortly after I posted, you might still be able to get it.
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uh? it's always fine to skip. there will always be the next best thing in the future smile.gif

QUOTE(SpikeTwo @ Jun 29 2020, 09:07 AM)
Cheap tecware tkl phantom ok ma?
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it's ok. it's bad at stock configurations, but it has rooms for improvement to certain extent.
horns
post Jun 29 2020, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(irsyadfy @ Jun 29 2020, 10:08 AM)
yea, every time i skipped or bought something, there will always be something else "better" after.
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right. we really have nothing to lose tbh

QUOTE(niakulah @ Jun 29 2020, 11:34 AM)
1800 and mini USB, it's still a compromise for me. If it was a full size, USB C, alu in grey or blue, I wouldn't hesitate even at that price.

I balked at having to pay so much for a compromise. But it's not often there is a bigger custom board available so unless my holy grail board appears, I will always wonder if I'm going to regret not buying.
And an update on my modded IKBC F108:

First day working after finished rebuilding it, using it on my work MacBook...and keyboard tester is all OK...huh? Unplugged it and plugged it back in to my kid's Windows PC, still failing both keyboard tester and switch hitter. Since I only tested it on a Mac before, it's possible that it was actually DOA and not anything that I did.

I feel relieved and pissed off at the same time.  rolleyes.gif
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uh? flawless on mac means it's a driver issue on windows os.

well, at least everything is fine for the board haha
horns
post Jun 29 2020, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(Newgen @ Jun 29 2020, 03:29 PM)
Hi guys, i just bumped myself into this subforum when I was looking around trying to figure out what is happening to my Redragon K551 (7 years of age I think?)
It's been giving me some weird issues as it would double-tap (for most keys), or even don't register at all (for certain keys).
Then I learnt that the term for double-tap is actually called "Chatter" (WOW!!!)
And then I learned how to clean the keyboard with the "blown" method and dismantle the whole keyboard and did a deep clean (except de-soldering and dismantling each switch)
Then I found there's this "Keyboard Chattering Fix" software which would help with chattering, well it actually helped a little, too.
All the above helped, but the chatter eventually came back and would occasionally get worst sometimes... like the KB is having a mind of its own LOL!

Honestly, would there be any way to fix the issue? or would it be because of the board and chip are having issue already? I've even tried using it on different laptop/desktop and even Mac to make sure that it's not a driver's issue...
***ON ANOTHER NOTE****
It's really hard to find Tecware Phantom Elite TKL now... like "Chips More"
Maybe I should start exploring other options? I was allowing myself to spend up to RM200, but due to the limited choices and stocks, I kept raising up to RM500 (or less, preferably)... which then brought me another issue... too many choices! *Faint*
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it's very likely mcu related, based on what you described. maybe it's time to just harvest the switches from this board, tune and reuse them.

you can check with quovadis123 if you're looking for a tecware phantom elite, full-size.
horns
post Jun 29 2020, 07:27 PM

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QUOTE(Newgen @ Jun 29 2020, 07:00 PM)
Hey thanks for the reply.
Just wondering if I can just replace the MCU? I actually have 2 of the same model keyboard facing the same issue. One is worst, one is still not that "chatty"
By the way, "Tune and reuse" means got to dismantle all the individual switches and check 1 by 1?

I'm looking for TKL wanna try TKL
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you can do that with the right tools. however, i'm not sure if this is worth the efforts, since both are also having similar issue.

yes it means desoldering them from the current board.

as for elite tkl, not sure. you can join mymkb fb page, and search the group with crowdsourcing to bring up the latest lists of commercial boards at different price range. https://www.facebook.com/groups/MalaysiaMechanicalKeyboard/
horns
post Jun 30 2020, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(limtekshi @ Jun 29 2020, 11:41 PM)
thank you. i went to lowyat plaza to see what they have to offer and also try out keyboards. They have the popular brands like Razer and Logitech which are outside my budget.
I saw there's also lower budget ones like Armageddon and Imperion. While I don't quite like the flashy design and font on the keys, i quite like sound and light clicky switches of them. Are these brands not considered good among the mech community?
Didnt manage to see any tecware or ikbc to try out in person.
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they are not good at stock.

first-hand experience is the key to appreciate mkb modding. without it, you will never be able differentiate good builds from bad ones.

this is the main reason i suggested tecware phantom elite. it's affordable, it supports 3-pin switch hot-swapping (so, beginner-friendly), and it's bad at stock. however, with some efforts, it can be turned into a better board than its original state to certain extents. (within their physical limits) you will experience its changes and differences yourself, from start to end.

if you're interested in soldered commercial boards only, instead of going for razer or logitech, you should try ikbc, ducky, leopold, varmilo, or filco.
horns
post Jul 8 2020, 04:34 PM

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QUOTE(SpikeTwo @ Jul 8 2020, 03:04 PM)
user posted image
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you should find some time to tune it so that it's much better than stock

QUOTE(Lybrary @ Jul 8 2020, 03:16 PM)
Tried my hand at balancing stab wires from the stock plate mount stabs on the tecware phantom elite. Although it helped a bit but the longer keys (spacebar in particular) still sinks a little and makes a tapping sound when softly tapping on either side. I assume it's because I'm not balancing the wires properly but I wanted to know if it's worth it to swap out the stock stabs for something else. Seems pretty hard to find any plate mount stabs in the first place with the cherry ones being sold out almost everywhere leaving only OEM brands. If only the phantom elite pcb accepts screw-in or pcb mount stabs...
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you can try putting a small piece of fabric tape on the top part of both wire tips, then lube them with plastic-safe grease, like permatex, or superlube. i did the same to my space bar. there is no more tinkling sound even if i tapped very lightly on either side.
horns
post Jul 8 2020, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(saishu @ Jul 8 2020, 04:36 PM)
how do you tune a tecware phantom?
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you can start with switch and stabilizer tuning. there are plenty of guides at youtube.

QUOTE(Lybrary @ Jul 8 2020, 05:01 PM)
Oh I never thought of doing this, I'll give this a try when I have time  thumbsup.gif
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yes, try this one. so far i have done this for my gk64 and z70ultra. it's really effective.

later i will try to do the rama's shrink tube mod also, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3da8CMV2_M

QUOTE(niakulah @ Jul 8 2020, 05:04 PM)
First time hearing this. Is it for when the key pops back up and potentially hitting the underside of the plate?
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it's a mod by our friend at mymkb. no this is to minimize the tinkling sound when wire tips hit the upper part of the stem hole when you tap on the edges of space bar. this sound is not obvious for shorter modifier keys, but they are there too, if the wire tips are not tuned properly.

another similar mod is is from rama (video above).
horns
post Jul 8 2020, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(Lybrary @ Jul 8 2020, 05:34 PM)
By the way, do you just cut a small square of tape that sits at the tip of the wire or a little longer so that it folds down onto the sides?
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it's more like a rectangular shape that sticks on the top part of wire tips.

QUOTE(SpikeTwo @ Jul 8 2020, 05:51 PM)
What is there to tune?
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sound and feel mainly. well, if you liked stock sound and feel, then do nothing
horns
post Jul 8 2020, 08:08 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jul 8 2020, 06:59 PM)
Interesting...thanks!

There's a link on the YouTube vid btw.
https://rama.works/guides#/silencing-stabilisers/

The mymkb mod deals with the tips only, but the rama mod is after the tips but before the bend, correct?

Pretty soon there won't be a single surface that doesn't have a mod. Lol.

P.s. my switch stickers finally arrived. And my V2 C3 stabs GB. smile.gif
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.. wow it took this long? well for tx switch films and springs, you can just pm quovadis123. he has stock.

to me both shrink tube mod and mymkb mod have similar effects so there is no need to stack them hehe

QUOTE(Crusader @ Jul 8 2020, 07:25 PM)
user posted image
Just received my Keychron K6 (1 hour ago...) No problem from the custom. Lucky me.

Setting up and charging now.
It is a very sturdy built and I think I may drop the idea of getting the aluminium version.

Damn... this thing is so tiny. First time move to non-standard size keyboard.
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nice smile.gif

QUOTE(niakulah @ Jul 8 2020, 07:52 PM)
Anyone know of any local seller of Kester 44 solder?
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no idea about this. i just grab them from taobao
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