Your statement is both wrong

1. RM 80 not call dyno lah - It is call a dyno run
2. normal tuning only - RM80 is not tuning

The difference is for the price of RM80, it is call a dyno run. If you have a piggyback and wish to tune it, it is call dyno tuning which cost RM180 and above, depending on what piggyback you have.

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Added on July 4, 2007, 1:49 pmIt helps to know where is the power band of your original setup. In that sense, when you change to an aftermarket air filter for example, you can do another dyno run to see the changes in the power band.

Initial dyno run is mainly to act as a benchmark for those who are into modifying their cars progressively.

This post has been edited by matthewctj: Jul 4 2007, 01:49 PM

Well, it depends on the part. Some parts requires tuning, while some requires only a simple run just to see the difference. But you need to know that on most EFI engines these days, the ECU needs some run in time to learn the new curve. Example, air filter, some ECU takes only minutes to learn while some several days. So, by immediately doing a dyno run, the result may not be accurate. Whereas an upgrade of fuel pump requires immediate tuning, otherwise, your FC will be high without a consistent powerband.

They have both, you can request for both printouts.

What kinda of setup? Dyno machine setup or car setup? A reputable tuner with reputable brand of tuning machine would be able to generate both readings. No problem ...

Does not require different car setup.

Which is what your specs on your brochure tells you. Therefor, there is no need to do a dyno on engine anymore. Although the characteristics of each engine differs, the specs are close to it.

Example, my car spec is 80 Kw (109hp) on specs but when dynoed on wheel is only approx 57 Kw (76hp) before tuning. Now with modifications and tuning, it runs at 67 Kw (89.8 hp) on wheel. Do the maths and you are able to get the on engine reading.

While I understand true enthusiast desire, I for one fail to understand how that would assist in determining how that figures can assist them. I see tuning on engine is more to help resolve the issues of reliability of an engine before placing them in a chassis. But the moment it goes into a chassis, the whole figures becomes erratic.

They can get the precise figure and still it wouldn't matter. If I were to take a tuneup engine, B18C for example, and place the engine inside a Civic, the figures churned out for on wheel figures would be different compared to taking the same engine out and placing it inside a CRX. Yet, the same engine will only produce 1 set of figures when calculated on engine. When gear ratios are tuned, they must be tuned on wheel. No point taking the engine out and tune the ratios when all other parts plays a significant role in determining the performance or reliability of a car.

The way I see it, on engine only works when assembling at factory to determine it's realiability. Once inside chassis, that figures don't seem to help in anyway.

I like this, we can learn together ...

Hmm, makes sense. But that would mean hell for owner and tuner alike. From my understanding of your explanation, from a stripped out used engine, one basically get a reading from that and dyno each and every part affecting changes from the 5-6k powerband. Does that apply to lower powerband as well? So, basically to get the perfect setup, dynoing is done all the way till it actually hits the road ..... damn, as much truth as it holds, do most reputable tuners go to such detail and length?

From what I can see in Malaysia, most just fits them all in and does a dyno tune to figure the best setting. But if power delivery isn't what is expected, they would have a tough time identifying where they went wrong in that sense I guess. Then it's a matter of plug, tune and play for them.