What kinda of setup? Dyno machine setup or car setup? A reputable tuner with reputable brand of tuning machine would be able to generate both readings. No problem ...

Does not require different car setup.

If you drive the car to the dyno, they can only measure the power on wheel. The power on engine is then calculated from the power on wheel. If you want a real power on engine, you'd have to take out the engine, put it on an engine dyno and dyno directly on the engine output shaft.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Aug 6 2007, 02:33 PM

I did mine at GT Auto, Sunway...

Last year, with stock TD04 turbo and 450cc injectors on 4G63T, I got over 156 on wheel. This is with normal auto tranny.

This year, after upgrading to larger TD05-16G turbo and 510 injectors on 4G63T, I got over 265 on wheel. Again, this is with auto tranny. Could have gotten higher but tranny slipped above 6000RPMs. Now, need to figure out why.

Dyno is a good reference before u start your mods. That way, u don't simply upgrade.

I heard someone from another club got only 92 on wheel after putting those Brother's micro compressor that costs over RM 199. This is on a 6A12 2.0 V6 NA engine with auto tranny. Stock engine produce over 110 on wheel. This shows one thing... don't simply mod the engine!

assuming if u have power on wheel is 100hp...whats is the rough calculation to convert to on engine?

d-tuning in kepong, member price rm 80.

gt-auto also rm 80 member price.

that is for normal dyno run oni right?..just to see hp..correct ar bro?

yup just to see ur bhp, of course u want to tune u gotta fork out da extras lor

Which is what your specs on your brochure tells you. Therefor, there is no need to do a dyno on engine anymore. Although the characteristics of each engine differs, the specs are close to it.

Example, my car spec is 80 Kw (109hp) on specs but when dynoed on wheel is only approx 57 Kw (76hp) before tuning. Now with modifications and tuning, it runs at 67 Kw (89.8 hp) on wheel. Do the maths and you are able to get the on engine reading.

That's not entirely true to say that you do not need to do engine dyno anymore. Engine dynos are for true enthusiast, for those who wants the absolute figure.

Here is where your calculations will go wrong. Changing any parts from the engine to the drivetrain influence the calculation and your original formula. Lighter flywheel, better clutches, lighter clutches, different rims, etc etc etc.

While I understand true enthusiast desire, I for one fail to understand how that would assist in determining how that figures can assist them. I see tuning on engine is more to help resolve the issues of reliability of an engine before placing them in a chassis. But the moment it goes into a chassis, the whole figures becomes erratic.

They can get the precise figure and still it wouldn't matter. If I were to take a tuneup engine, B18C for example, and place the engine inside a Civic, the figures churned out for on wheel figures would be different compared to taking the same engine out and placing it inside a CRX. Yet, the same engine will only produce 1 set of figures when calculated on engine. When gear ratios are tuned, they must be tuned on wheel. No point taking the engine out and tune the ratios when all other parts plays a significant role in determining the performance or reliability of a car.

The way I see it, on engine only works when assembling at factory to determine it's realiability. Once inside chassis, that figures don't seem to help in anyway.

I like this, we can learn together ...

But how can you improve the drivetrain without knowing the baseline in the first place? For example, a stock B18C will give you 200hp from factory. Unless you are modding a new engine, that figure no longer holds. As the engine ages, it loses its power. So you do a chassis dyno and get 150HPs. Without an engine dyno, you will not be able to tell whether the lost of 50hps came from the drivetrain or the engine. In theory, transmission lost claimed to be between 12.5-15% but we all know it's never a fixed figure.

When I talked about modding and engine dyno, I'm not talking about changing air filters and replacing performance parts in the engine. I'm talking about the difference of 200 grams in the weight of the crankshaft affecting the power band between 5000-6000rpm. That you'd need an engine dyno.

Furthermore, precision is lost in chassis dyno, as much as up to 5%. That is a big difference when trying to determine whether the latest HKS cams are making the extra 10% power or was it dyno variance.

but then which of them has the most accurate machine?. coz heard speedworks dyno will give u higher reading..the GT auto give lower reading..Links bla bla bla...N1 bla bla bla..RS bla bla bla.... so which one recommended?

i tot previously sleepwalker or some1 already mention all dyno machine are slightly diffrent...depends on when they did their dynomachine calibration....& if you wanan compare with your car club members it's suggested all dyno to be done on 1 place which you can at least have the same figure to compare...

its all up to your pesonal preferences laa

Hmm, makes sense. But that would mean hell for owner and tuner alike. From my understanding of your explanation, from a stripped out used engine, one basically get a reading from that and dyno each and every part affecting changes from the 5-6k powerband. Does that apply to lower powerband as well? So, basically to get the perfect setup, dynoing is done all the way till it actually hits the road ..... damn, as much truth as it holds, do most reputable tuners go to such detail and length?

From what I can see in Malaysia, most just fits them all in and does a dyno tune to figure the best setting. But if power delivery isn't what is expected, they would have a tough time identifying where they went wrong in that sense I guess. Then it's a matter of plug, tune and play for them.