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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, Q&A about tips and technique here

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chriswoo
post Jan 15 2008, 07:06 AM

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QUOTE(Gundam87 @ Jan 15 2008, 01:01 AM)
Hi everyone,

I also tried out handpainting recently with mr hobby acrylic paint, but i find that it does not really stick well to the plastic.

I thinned it with water, and when i paint it on the plastic, the paint always flow downwards, what is the reason for this?

And how do you all paint the small gold parts of BB gundam? Very hard to paint small parts using a brush leh.. haha.
*
hand paint bb gundam mostly use lacquers paints more easyer to control then acrylic paint but then again dependes on the people skill ^.^
zheyuen
post Jan 15 2008, 10:38 PM

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if enemal...got for haindpaint? coz i heard its flat...and im looking for flat.
fyire
post Jan 15 2008, 10:52 PM

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QUOTE(Gundam87 @ Jan 15 2008, 01:01 AM)
Hi everyone,

I also tried out handpainting recently with mr hobby acrylic paint, but i find that it does not really stick well to the plastic.

I thinned it with water, and when i paint it on the plastic, the paint always flow downwards, what is the reason for this?

And how do you all paint the small gold parts of BB gundam? Very hard to paint small parts using a brush leh.. haha.
*
well, you've just encountered the biggest pain when it comes to painting with acrylics smile.gif

This' also the reason why its a good idea to prime your model first before painting, so that its easier for the paint to stick. Try getting yourself a can of the Mr Surfacer to prime your kit first.

Then, the other thing to remember about acrylic painting is that you'll need to apply the paint in multiple thin coats. The first coat is to just cover the piece that you're painting. It don't matter if you can see through the first coat to the plastic or the primer under it, as you'll fix that up on the 2nd coat.

Basically, its all about patience lar smile.gif

And for the small parts, use a small brush lor smile.gif
asuk
post Jan 16 2008, 10:23 AM

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QUOTE(fyire @ Jan 15 2008, 10:52 PM)
well, you've just encountered the biggest pain when it comes to painting with acrylics smile.gif

This' also the reason why its a good idea to prime your model first before painting, so that its easier for the paint to stick. Try getting yourself a can of the Mr Surfacer to prime your kit first.

Then, the other thing to remember about acrylic painting is that you'll need to apply the paint in multiple thin coats. The first coat is to just cover the piece that you're painting. It don't matter if you can see through the first coat to the plastic or the primer under it, as you'll fix that up on the 2nd coat.

Basically, its all about patience lar smile.gif

And for the small parts, use a small brush lor smile.gif
*
what really ticks me off about handpainting is that when i try to apply the second layer of paint, i always paint away the first layer, sometimes even the primer layer. this happens even after i left the 1st layer for a day. this is my experience with lacquer paints. never used acrylics except for panel-lining. any comments??
fyire
post Jan 16 2008, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(asuk @ Jan 16 2008, 10:23 AM)
what really ticks me off about handpainting is that when i try to apply the second layer of paint, i always paint away the first layer, sometimes even the primer layer. this happens even after i left the 1st layer for a day. this is my experience with lacquer paints. never used acrylics except for panel-lining. any comments??
*
now, this I cant really help you with. Chriswoo will be better as he's hand painted using lacquers, while I've only done hand painting using acrylics, and only used lacquers for airbrushing.

The washing away of the bottom layers does not happen with acrylics, as wet acrylics does not dissolve acrylics that's already dried.
chriswoo
post Jan 16 2008, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(asuk @ Jan 16 2008, 10:23 AM)
what really ticks me off about handpainting is that when i try to apply the second layer of paint, i always paint away the first layer, sometimes even the primer layer. this happens even after i left the 1st layer for a day. this is my experience with lacquer paints. never used acrylics except for panel-lining. any comments??
*
well for that problem u need to control your painting skill which for my experince the 1st layer paint dissolve due to too much tinner sweat.gif or bad mix tinner retarted ratio or hand brush stroke on the same area too many time. So to my best solution are after primer it and painted 1st layer (Mix tinner retarder = ratio 1:3) then when come painting 2 layer u need to control your tinner paint (just put ratio 1:1 only) . For me after painting 1st layer gentlely then i leave it for 10 min for it to dry then paint 2 layer gentlely again then 3th layer time will cover all the surface without having the bottom layer dissolve.

Most important thing is do not brush paint same area more than 5 stroke (must leave it dry for 10 min then only continue) that will surely avoid this problem .

Hope that will help you icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Jan 16 2008, 11:11 AM
asuk
post Jan 16 2008, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(chriswoo @ Jan 16 2008, 11:06 AM)
well for that problem u need to control your painting skill which for my experince the 1st layer paint  dissolve due to too much tinner  sweat.gif or bad mix tinner retarted ratio or hand brush stroke on the same area too many time. So to my best solution are after primer it and painted 1st layer (Mix tinner retarder = ratio 1:3) then when come painting 2 layer u need to control your tinner paint (just put ratio 1:1 only) . For me  after painting 1st layer gentlely then i leave it for 10 min for it to dry then paint 2 layer gentlely again then 3th layer time will cover all the surface without having the bottom layer dissolve.

Most important thing is do not brush paint same area more than 5 stroke (must leave it dry for 10 min then only continue) that will surely avoid this problem .

Hope that will help you  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
wow, i never even measure my thinner:paint ratio, let alone use a retarder sweat.gif
i'll try your painting recommendations, once i find a victim to test on brows.gif thanks!
edan1979
post Jan 16 2008, 10:51 PM

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hmmm one more place to buy tamiya spray and bottle color.

Toy City Mines Shopping Centre Sri Kembangan
ozak
post Jan 16 2008, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(edan1979 @ Jan 16 2008, 10:51 PM)
hmmm one more place to buy tamiya spray and bottle color.

Toy City Mines Shopping Centre Sri Kembangan
*
Are they stock well?
edan1979
post Jan 17 2008, 06:52 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jan 16 2008, 11:29 PM)
Are they stock well?
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yup got mostly all color.
zheyuen
post Jan 18 2008, 11:14 PM

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how does enamel thinner look like?
fyire
post Jan 19 2008, 12:04 AM

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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Jan 18 2008, 11:14 PM)
how does enamel thinner look like?
*
u got 2 choices, either using zippo lighter fluid, or turpentine.

if you're using enamels for lining work, then i suggest getting both. use zippo fluid to do the thinning (dries faster), then turpentine for the cleanups (turpentine's cheaper, but dries slower)
zheyuen
post Jan 19 2008, 10:04 PM

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u mean enamel use industrial thinners? im planning to handpaint with enamels...yes...handpaint with enamels... so i was wondering wad thinner do i need... is there any hobby thinner for it?

z3r0717
post Jan 19 2008, 10:21 PM

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yes there is... Tamiya's one but it cost a bomb... that's y fyrie recommend industrial's coz it's cheaper. Right?
fyire
post Jan 19 2008, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Jan 19 2008, 10:04 PM)
u mean enamel use industrial thinners? im planning to handpaint with enamels...yes...handpaint with enamels... so i was wondering wad thinner do i need... is there any hobby thinner for it?
*
say.. r u using enamels or lacquers? enamel paint costs a bomb, and is usually used for lining work only. can u post a pic of the paint bottle?
zheyuen
post Jan 19 2008, 10:49 PM

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oh...basically i might be trying both...XD...havent get yt...thats y i wan ask u guys... i oso heard the solvent for enamel can weaken plastic? AHHH...i soooo duno wad to get for handpainting now...T.T.

This post has been edited by zheyuen: Jan 19 2008, 10:50 PM
chriswoo
post Jan 19 2008, 11:37 PM

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lolv use mr hobby tinnner lor or tamiya X20 tinner for emamel lining ^.^

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Jan 19 2008, 11:37 PM
noob4life
post Jan 19 2008, 11:44 PM

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Guys im having a bit of problem with my Mr. Metal Colors... im using Aluminium... i stirred the bottle and used straight from there without any thinner or retarder... but the paint come off so easily leh. I let it dry for like 2 days d... as long as i touch the thing the paint come off alredi... lol. Even Mr. Metal's Brass color is like that.... swt. Any idea why ?

And mr metal is shitty expensive...

This post has been edited by noob4life: Jan 19 2008, 11:44 PM
chriswoo
post Jan 19 2008, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(noob4life @ Jan 19 2008, 11:44 PM)
Guys im having a bit of problem with my Mr. Metal Colors... im using Aluminium... i stirred the bottle and used straight from there without any thinner or retarder... but the paint come off so easily leh. I let it dry for like 2 days d... as long as i touch the thing the paint come off alredi... lol. Even Mr. Metal's Brass color is like that.... swt. Any idea why ?

And mr metal is shitty expensive...
*
Mr. Metal Colors is acrylics or lacquers? me nvr own 1 b4 >,< but anyway u use Aluminium material u must have to use Metal SUFACER to avoid orange pee.

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Jan 19 2008, 11:58 PM
zheyuen
post Jan 20 2008, 12:13 AM

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if i totally handpaint with enamel can rite?? mostly how much is it aa...vry hard get info bout it...google noob...XD... if i use mr color thinner it wont soften my plastic and can use to paint rite( not lining) rite?

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