its a coin
japanese coin that got a hole in the middle

this can prevent you from pressing the spray can too hard



This post has been edited by VincC454: Mar 11 2008, 11:46 AM

oooo... hmmm.. this really helps a lot?

Thats a japanese coin... its got a hole in between em.... but dunno if u can get one here.

Oops vince replied first...

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 11 2008, 11:46 AM

I still din get it..
Ok, Let's start asking form basic. Hopes you guys can help out.

I found out some mechanism to put the pieces together.

1. Bind Glue
2. Putty
3. Elephant Glue

Which one is better??? Both Putty and Bind Glue can be bought from TM in BTS.

1. duno wat is tat.. is this cement?
2. usually to cover Seam Lines, doesn't act as glue
3. more powerful than cement, depends which part to use... put the glue, snap the parts, glue comes out, dry alr then sand it away

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Mar 11 2008, 11:49 AM

Actually u dun need any of those... gundam kits are snap fit. You dont need any form of glue....

This being the reason is that you can remove the pieces later if u want to paint the kit... if u glue it then u cant remove it liao... difficult to paint...

But u can use putty or supah glue to cover seam lines... AFTER you paint the kit then only you should consider gluing the kit or not...

but if you see those tutorial on gunpla at you tube...
those japs use some sort like a super glue also to cover lines and then sand them...

they never use putty to cover normal seam lines...

---

Added on March 11, 2008, 11:55 amhe asking about super glue thingy because of covering seam lines...not because he dunno that gundam is actually a snap tight model kit

and also...usually ppl cement first then only paint the kit
cause cement act like a thinner and will remove your paint

This post has been edited by VincC454: Mar 11 2008, 11:55 AM

Heres another picture.... this time they use Mr. Cement Deluxe.... no putty also. Once sanded down d look nice leh, dont have that "puttied" look... Good for those who dont paint. And its way easier than using putty. No need to wait for curing time.

I might try this today... tell u guys results later.





@Vince

Well he did say " to put pieces together " ... I assumed putting parts together lol.

My bad.

This post has been edited by noob4life: Mar 11 2008, 11:59 AM

this method memang works one

the cement actually melt a bit the plastic and the extra will be out when you press the 2 end together...

and after sand it will cover the lines...

but you must add extra amount of cement

This post has been edited by VincC454: Mar 11 2008, 12:06 PM

Thanks...

Not because I want to glue it..
Some part is loosy... means that they are not aligned and little bit hole.... especially the hand part...

Then I should just buy elephant glue/super glue and sand it away after dry? Correct?

actually superglue is abit harder than plastic so it's much more harder to sand after u glue the plastics..
with cement.. not much of this sanding issue..
but superglue is much cheaper

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 11 2008, 02:27 PM

Hmm.. maybe I apply a super thin and flatten it when assembling??
Nvm, Tonight I'll try and let you guys see the result.

Ok, "Glue" part done.

I have to ask... What grit of sand paper is best for model kits?? The finer the better or otherwise??

usually ppl use rough to sand out the extra bits away then fine one to smoothen the surface.

Got it Thanks.

Later, I had to asked about painting after I've done these...

for sand paper, is like this:

600 and below is really coarse, use to remove most of the uneven surfaces
600-800 medium grade, use after sanding with 600grit (and below),
1000, this one will gif u a smooth sanded surface but is matt (u almost can't feel the coarseness of the sanded surface d)
1500-2000, slightly less matt than 1000, satin-like surface, quite smooth d but won't shine.. with most gundam kits, u can mostly satisfy with non-gloss sanded surface with 2000grit sand paper.

note:
sandpaper is usually used with lowest grit to highest: 400>800>1500

if u jump from 400grit to 2000grid, u'll see many visible scratches

my turn to ask....
those who prime their kits... AT LEAST how many hours before u start coloring it? i alwiz wait until the next day.. zzzz

Don't forget too that the faster drying time of superglue makes it less forgiving to handle, but its good for the impatient. With cement, u'll need to wait for the cement melted plastic to properly set before you can sand (so patience is the key!)

to be safe, 1 day or overnight is good enough
if really rushing.. usually 2-4 hrs (i tried gunze's spray can, no very thick layer, 2 hours after my lunch it's dry to touch d, wait for another hour or two would be sufficient)
but again.. nver rush for paint works.. coz some aftermaths disasters don come immediately..

ah.... ic ic..
everytime i prime alr, i alwiz leave it overnite.. just cant wait to starting coloring it..
guess i'll spray it tmr..
thanks for ur feed back

urmm, say u've put the pla-plates over gunpla, they can be primed/surfaced ryte? (colour comes later on ), lol, gotta make sure b4 i try XD

anyways, actually scratch build comes from pla-plates ryte? are there any other method of doing so?