Goodness, that is so dirty and disgusting..... the bedding, now that is just full of germs and bacteria....

WW can start changing to winter coat at 5 months... some can be younger but this is up to the individual hamster. Some won't wanna change at all in their lives, some will change and stay in winter coat for many months while some only change half way then go back to normal coat. We cannot force them to change, if the hamster feels like changing then it will.

Hamsters do hiss... just not often. Hissing is only when it is angry or annoyed....

Piff? Now that I never hear.... but it could be the gerbil smell.

As long you do not feed sweet stuff like treats or fruits high in sugars.... then it will lessen the chance of getting diabetes. The symptoms of a hamster having diabetes is excessive drinking and peeing. Sometimes weight loss too.

3ft tank or cage? Well.... having 3 would be fine as the rule is 1ft to 1 hamster.... but do get campbell siblings coz you will not get any fights, most likely squabbles but rarely fights. Get a single sex group coz they can live longer and won't be to stressed up.

The flu thing... not hissing... it's wheezing and sniffling.

Make sure the cage has solid flooring coz wire flooring is bad and could injure their feet. Tanks without covers are better than cages.

Females are actually more territorial than males..... but if you get all sisters or all brothers, then there should be no fighting.

Why are you not stopping the breeding? Obviously the female doesn't want to be bred. In nature, they can avoid breeding coz of the wide open free space but in captivity, you forced her to breed when she clearly doesn't want to breed. Some females are never cut out to be mothers, they will go on and on cannibalizing or ignoring their young. Some females cannot produce milk for long as well. Also, over population in a cage can lead to hamsters actually purposely killing or give up on their young. This happens in the wild so no over population in the colony.

Just end the breeding, it is better for them.

Even though robos are sociable, but they will fight and kill each other if they feel the other is a stranger or a threat. They got small brains, they have no idea who is mom or dad or son or daughter, all that is human feelings. I advised before separate the male with his sons and the female with her daughters to end the breeding but I don't think you listen.

Why did you put the mother in the son or daughter's tank? If hamsters have been separated for some time, they cannot recognize each other and for sure territorial feelings come about. No matter how friendly it is to you, a hamster will not be friendly towards its own species.

All hamsters will fight.... it is basically how you keep them. Frankly speaking, my RCs rarely fight. Squabble got but never fight till bleed. Fights for my WW normally happens when introduction doesn't go correct but precaution must always be taken so no injuries occur.

Once fight, you cannot put them back. There is a chance the fighting can become deadly. Just separate. Get more tanks and separate.

It is a good choice but do remember, hamsters are instinctive animals, most will bite if mishandled or feel threaten.

I don't like coloured sand bath.... dunno what chemical they use to colour it. Quality is not as good as Sluis or Delikate..... Perfumed ones are also not that good since the perfume can sometimes harm their respiratory system.

Well, it is good that you have separated them from the fights and all. Robos do fight for space as with all hamsters but they can live in small colonies..... 2ft and 3ft tanks are the best for colonies but smaller than that sure fight.

Well, 12 is enough.... but 5 cage is ok lah, not that many compared to mine ahhahah.... Robos sexually mature at 2 months old so normally you are able to tell the sex once reach 2 months old.

Har? No.... the easiest to handle are Syrians coz they are bigger and the ones from breeders are tame like kittens.. the most difficult to handle are Robos.... any hamster can be startled and surprised, that is not aggressive. They have really really poor eyesight so what ever is strange can make them attack. Robos know they are too small to give much of an attack so their best defense is running away. They are one of the hardest to handle. All species of hamsters are easy to keep provided you give the right kind of tank/cage, living environment and good food.

Hamsters from breeders do not attack people.... the ones at petshops do coz they are super scared from lack of handling and socialization.

Hahah... sometimes this mistake happens coz of petshops. The supply hamsters that are not tame, unhealthy or with genetic disorders....

Aiyah, you should have gotten hamsters from me hahaha.... sure friendly and tame wan heheheh... but that is how I like hamsters to be. Like Russian Campbell, everyone don't fancy them coz bite people and aggressive but I made that myth turn around. My objective is to produce tame and good quality RC hamsters.

The safest is Breeder's Celect or Healthy Pet..... have you read the 1st page's bedding review?

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Added on August 31, 2007, 10:08 pmRC: Russian Campbell.

Why would you wanna go see hamster farm? Normally it is for business, outsiders not allowed in. And the sight is something you wouldn't wanna see..... the way they breed them.....

Nice campbells. Yups, the last one is a dove. Your 2nd one is an agouti.

This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Aug 31 2007, 10:08 PM

No... you can't. If you go to the farm to buy, you must get 100 or more at 1 shot. Also, only certain petshops will have the contact of this farm and they won't let you have the contact.... as business is business.

The worst place is a commercial animal farm. I rather get from breeders than visit a farm. Hamsters should never be treated like ice creams, they are not on display for you to choose in such farms.

Yes.... and they keep them in crates about 50 to 100 in a tank.

Yes, I saw pics of the farm that supplies animals to pets wonderland before. They are kept in 100s in a tank...

The green round pellet is an ok supplement but it is not really a good staple. You should switch to Harry Hamster or Prestige, it is a complete diet, the quality is way way much better than those Bengy green pellets.

What species are your hamsters? Actually, it is better for you to separate. The best is always separating coz you will be able to make sure that the mother hamster won't over breed.

Do not touch or handle the mother, let her be in a quite corner of the house. Best is to cover the part where the babies are with a cloth over half the cage....

Feed as normal but provide ample amounts of water and also protein like hard boiled eggs, cooked chicken meat and fresh vegies like carrots, sawi, spinach and watercress.

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Added on September 5, 2007, 9:54 pmGood work dien

This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Sep 5 2007, 09:54 PM

Separate once they reach 5 weeks old. By that time, you can tell the difference between female and males....

If you do not separate, the female will keep on getting pregnant and breed till her body deteriorates, her health weaken and she dies before she is 1 year old.... that is something serious coz the body can cage during breeding and having babies. So logically thinking, which is better? Control the breeding and not control the breeding?

Sometimes it prevents both parents from killing their babies. And it prevents uncontrolled breeding.

Good. Awaiting your lil family photo.

3 weeks old? Who told you to separate from the mom at 3 weeks old? It should be 4 weeks....

Foo, since when you keep Syrian hammies? Hehehehe

Hahaha.... where you get so many lah? Can see normal, sable, cream, cinnamon I think.... but all also very nice hahahah. Your pets or you help someone jaga?

Pets Wonderland carries most of the Critter Trail accessories and cages.

Pet Safari doesn't carry Critter Trail. They only carry Habitrail.