I just installed DDPai Z50 GPS with OBD easy plug in hardwire on my old car.

It comes with a set of front and rear camera. The OBD plug in makes it easy to plug in, no need connect to fuse. DDPai OBD plug has a switch there...24 hours and ACC. From my understanding, the ACC setting will cut off power when car engine is off, 24 hours....is just that 24 hours powering. So if don't want app turn off or unsure, can just flip the switch on the OBD (if you can access the OBD port). Better than the cigarette lighter plug in. Some say OBD goes 24hours full power but DDPai OBD can sett directly on the switch. It has low voltage cut off.

The DDpai app can set battery voltage detection. I set DDPai to cut of power if battery goes lower than 12.4, the cut off power to avoid battery cannot start. The parking monitoring can set to either time lapse mode (can set 12, 24 or 48 hours before shutdown), full recording or in my case I set to sleep mode to save battery (not need record unless collision or hard vibration emergency wake). I'm not sure why other says the microphone is bad, for me, its is working ok, clear enuf.

For me, the app is working ok, nothing fancy but not as bad as other say. Does higher end phone makes a difference?

Also when initially connect app to ddpai, it does cut off phone data. I'm not sure how, but when after I access the live video, if I don't exit, just switch to other app with DDPAi app still running in background, I recovered usage of my data and can choose the running DDPAI app and view live video.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 26 2024, 01:33 PM

My rear windscreen with VLT 21%... Can see clearly in video. Actually I see no hassle in front and rear, the installer will do it without any damage to car roof. It least mine looks ok.

Actually in hardwire to fuse, it will likely void the ENTIRE car electrical system all the way to your electronic device, etc LCD screen, etc. Nowadays, they especially love to VOID all warranties at the slightest mod that we made, so no mod, no worries. So I rather pay extra for more celup but expensive device from car manufacturer if I must have the item for the new car.

The rear video is useful in rear ended hit and run case to identify car number and cause of accident. It is only about a hundred extra. The power port goes directly to front camera. The front camera powered by a single USB port.


This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 26 2024, 01:49 PM

I tot you install on existing car. For new car, I would consider install from car manufacturer if I must have one, else cigarette plug lor. Nowadays cut cost, especially H, a little bit mod also can void warranty. Don't do any electrical mods unless you want to void practically all electrical wiring, fuse, even connected device if they have issue that relate to electrical power...

Haha....they are not high end, just high price. Manufacturer garantee mah...You pay extra price for non-void clause...

You will notice that their quality is subpar to even RM300 models at times...

I have installed Z40 GPS with rear view camera and OBD kit on on my old 2008 City. It come at a full set from my fav accs shop. I calculate then, it turned out to be cheaper than I buy online separately and paying for installer to install. I like the OBD kit better than messing with the fusekit. Technically just plug and play as long as your car OBD port is not used. The OBD plug even have a switch, so that you can switch it to 24 hours or ACC mode. ACC mode means the dashcam will switch off when stop engine (meaning no parking mode to drain battery). I leave it on 24 hours mode for the parking mode. If not using car for long term parking, I can go under my dashboard (easily reach under steering) and switch it to ACC if necessary. Can unplug it yourself without technical knowledge vs fusekit if necessary.

There are indeed quite a few customizable setting via Z40 app. Can set to that dashcam to switch off if car battery power goes down to 12.4V. You can switch parking mode on or off, full parking recording, quicken parking recording that can save storage space by skipping frame rate or just only start recording when there is a collision while parking. You can set collision sensitivity setting where the strongest can trigger collision recording even when close door. The parking mode will go into sleep mode if you switch to collision only when switch off engine and wake up when there is a vibration or collision depending on what sensitivity that you set.

64GB should be sufficient but then again 128 can store more recording before overwriting, I bought it with 64GB tho.

Why you want to switch off recording while driving? Accidents mostly HAPPENED when you are driving. That is mainly what the dashcam is for.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Feb 22 2024, 11:40 AM

Z50 has a screen saver on by default. Will activate screen saver within a minute or so when start car. Parking mode, no recording will show on the cam but will continue recording when detected collision (I set to sleep mode that activate recording when medium range sensitivity collision detected).

For parents car, no need install so fancy stuff but high quality will do.

DDPAI Z50 GPS with rear cam set or the more expensive but latest model 70Mai A800S will do as well with your budget with lots of balance left.

The moment dashcam are hardwired outside of manufacturer service centre (not car manufacturer endorsed product), then it WILL usually void electrical warranty, once caught. Not all warranties, meaning chassis warranty, engine warranty, etc all still working. If you can removed traces of hardwire before sending to SC for any electrical warranty claim, can lar...just don't get caught.

One of way is to installed an OBD hardwire instead of fuse hardwire, plug and play.

I've installed Z50 GPS with OBD hardwire. Just plug and play. If you can reach your OBD port, you can just pull it out yourself and plug in when necessary. The difference with Cig port plug in? Z50 OBD port have a switch at the plug, can switch it to 24 hours or ACCs mode, ACC mode means when switch of engine, it will cut off power like cigarette lighter port. 24 hours will act like fuse kit hardware, 24 hours, can use for parking mode.

The only problem with OBD port for long term is if SC or mechanic want to diagnose the car system by computer, they will use this port but then you just have to pull it out (plug and play) and after done, plug back in. Mind you, by SC term, it still consider Hardwire, so warranty can be void but at least you can pull/plug back in yourself unlike fuse kit hardwire.

Ya, if I buy new car, I will likely get the car manufacturer expensive and subpar dashcam if I must have dashcam. Really don't like external cabling to USB or cig port.

For after warranty car, I would advise going for OBD port plug is available. Easy to unplug unless fusekit hardwire. But then again only got 1 OBD port per car when technician uses for computer diagnostic but then again how long only we need such diagnostic...but obd dashcam plug can just pull out and plug back without repercussion when doing computer diagnostic.

I'm not sure about 70mai but DDPai Z50 has 2 features to handle this.

1. Power mode for Parking Mode, One is full recording (full drain), 2nd is low frame rate recording (save storage space, don't know about the power drain), 3rd only record if detect collision, then go power saving after a few minutes (more power saving), 3rd off parking mode.
2. Car Battery detection. Can set to detect if battery power drop below 12.4V. Once drop below, the dashcam will be switch off.

See if 70mai software has any similar feature. Btw, even Honda own dashcam also kills the battery fast, not sure if its Honda battery problem. Happened to a number of Honda owners. I can't verify that tho but have a number of complains in one of those Honda Civic groups.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Apr 3 2024, 09:29 AM

I also never install one especially when all my cars are over 10 to 18 years old. Just recently installed one on my old City (very nicely maintained one lar and driven by wife coz got experience accident, no proof).

At that that time, I also consider A810 and Z50 GPS with rear cam. A810 is really more expensive (coz the latest and highest range) while Z50 is out for sometime.

Although I have no experience on A810, I installed Z50 GPS with rear cam and OBD hard fuse. If you car is after warranty, can try OBD hardfuse. It's plug and play unlike fuse hardwire. It can read you car battery strength, so that if you set parking mode and the battery level felt below 12.5V or something, it will stop the parking mode battery drain. OBD also allow you to HARD switch (there is also software setting to do that but OBD has the switch directly there), to either ACC mode (engine off, dashcam off) or 24 hours mode (parking mode). After setting to 24 hours, I just set if battery falls below 12.5V (you need 12V to start car) stop the parking mode (I set on collision or massive vibration, record only, not 24 hours recording to reduce battery drain yet maintain collision recording).

Once you go cig lighter power source tho, parking mode advantage and battery drain monitoring above is a mute point.

There is lead car departure notification if you ADAS does not have it. Mine no ADAS, so this is a useful added feature for my older car. The fact that it uses supercapacitor instead of lithium battery (A810), for me is a safer option and can withstand heat (my 2 cents only, lithium battery for other dashcam all no problem also but batteries life will be shorten drastically for hot weather like ours).

It is quite cheaper than A810 although A810 is really the top range in video quality etc but Z50 high resolution is very good liao unless you taking dashcam video for tik tok, youtube, etc, so want maximum quality..hehe.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 27 2024, 09:23 AM

Advantage with OBD is you feel something not right, can just pull the OBD plug yourself if you know the the OBD plug is. Plug and play, not like hardwire fuse that can go wrong and have to handle by one who knows about car, wiring and fusebox. The only thing is car manufacturer also use the same plug to diagnose using computer if necessary. Just pull out the OBD plug, once done, plug in back in, no complication.

Usually fuse box mess with wiring, OBD does not...so should not void warranty BUT all car manufacturer will void as long as foreign plug or wring plug in.

So want to get DDPAI now, just get the cig lighter port, no parking mode, Once warranty expire, buy the OBD plug and repull power cord from dashcam direct to OBD. You will get true fire and forget dashcam then.

Actually do you really need or want state of the art cam? If you do, then go straight A810, no need think. It is the latest tech 2023 tech vs Z50 2022. Get the latest tech.

The only reason to got for Z50 is the cheaper pricing and supercapacitor vs li-ion batt that are more susceptible to heat.

But if you are one that once play around abit, then fire and forget until something happen, the cheaper Z50 already has 4K liao. Good image at night too.

A couple of weeks after install this, when my wife drove, she heard a big thud undercarriage and car actually shake, I tot something underneath there broke liao. Habis wang...
So I review back the video to where she say she heard the very loud thud.....found that she ran over a small appx 6cm item (don't know what) on the ground of the main road....then using the rear cam video capture at same time, I save that item from rear cam, bounce and skid up bouncing after the car ran over it. That is to make sure IT is the item that cause it coz Z50 also can record audio...there is a loud thud then...the item bounce at the back.

Save me money taking time and asking mechanic to check undercarriage. That is the first use and only time I really review the video cam since a few months now...

So once install, its really fire and forget...unless you want to use ADAS features in those cams, otherwise, you will just forget about it until something happened. A810 is generally superior to Z50 as it is really newer by a year but Z50 4k image suffice liao if you need the dashcam as a fire and forget recording only.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 27 2024, 04:55 PM

I won't recommend anyone under warranty and still concern of vehicle warranty to do any OBD or fusekit hardwire anyway unless it is done under the car manufacturer service center under manufacturer warranty.

I am actually also concerned initially on using OBD for my older car's Z50 dashcam. I read most reputable dashcam OBD uses PIN 16 with PIN 4 and 5 for grounding only. They usually don't touch/connect the other pins. PIN 16 to battery should have a fuse. It is not likely to damage ECU. Although many ppl say can damage, is there any record of DDPAI dashcam or any other dashcam that actually blowout the fuse and ECU? I can't find any record on that except for warning that it might but some expert say if the PIN usage are above, it won't. So many conflicting view.

Since mine is an older car with no warranty issue, I tried DDPAI Z50 with its OBD plug. The OBD seems to have some extra safety features on it tho none mention protecting the OBD short. I doubt any will mention that. Heard many tho have used OBD ports without issue, also the accs shop owner installed so many liao...so I just take the plunge. So far so good. Battery power monitored with the OBD plugs to avoid dead battery.

However for my new car, I just take the super expensive manufacturer fuse hardwire but with inferior quality vs 3rd party dashcam for parking mode peace of mind and to maintain warranty. That dashcam have no arrive yet, so I see if they have setting like DDPAI, to use parking mode for collision recording only for minimal power drain. Also see if they have battery power monitoring. I myself not sure if not using OBD plug, can still monitor battery voltage?

Actually I am intending to install DDPAI or 70Mai obd dashcam for my other 2 old cars (got experience crash on on my newer one that comes with dashcam), no need argue who right and wrong, show dashcam video, straight we right), so I suddenly realized the importance of dashcam as insurance for proof.

Now the OBD concern was raised again, I am in doubt again, if want parking mode collision recording (years ago, one car got bang while parking overnight, cialat, don't know which drunk driver did that, that time dashcam not available yet). So should I get the OBD as it has worked well with battery voltage monitoring and auto-disconnect power or should I revert back to fuse hardwire.

After reading up more, for old cars, OBD no problem but I would not risk it for the newer car (even after warranty) until I know for sure the OBD did not use PINS other than PIN16, 4 and 6 (power and grounding).

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 30 2024, 09:42 AM

Semua hardwire (fuse or OBD) kacau warranty. Boleh void electrical warranty.

Jika u nak record sahaja, tak payah GPS. Ada GPS just boleh tambak location dalam recording. Nak guna ADAS, mungkin perlu sebab Z50 saya, jika GPS signal tak dapat, macam tak function je ADAS (lead car notification).

Mine is 18 years old City. Used the OBD, worked perfectly so far. At least DDPAI Z50 has setting to stop power if falls below 12.4V.

Don't want Cig port plug-in tho coz I used the ports liao for 3rd party LCD screen for Android Auto when needed (stick it up when needed, removed most of time). Much cheaper option to than buy built-in media with car specific casing (not so convenient tho, just a stop gap measure, see how first). Also used the cig ports for tyre air pump periodically, never go to petrol station to pump anymore, too many cars for family to take care of...

My new City uses the bloody cheapo Honda Dashcam (cheapo quality but super premium pricing, no choice, maintain warranty), stated will stop power if drop below 11.8 or is it 11.6...but I think battery might risk cannot start liao by then coz most car need around 12V to have a guaranteed safe start.

The moment you go cig port, likely no parking mode. In order to keep under warranty, with 3rd party dashcam, the ONLY choice is cigarette port. Any fuse or obd ports connection, manufacturer will likely void your warranty. H & T are particularly strict nowadays coz their quality dropped like shit and so many warranty claims liao, so they will void warranty when they have the chance (not like decades ago when their quality are top notches, not that many QC caused warranty, sometimes, they close one eye if minor claim, now void all related warranties without questions). Not sure of other brands.

Technically, it should not void warranty as we just plug in and no cut wires.

BUT our car manufacturers say otherwise.

Bro....if can remove any evidence of fuse and OBD connections AND the dashcam when you go claim, sure can...as long as it is not detected. That is common sense lar.

We are talking about usual layman here that installed and leave it there (me included). How many ppl when claiming warranty on something are going to remove the dashcam and evidence of wiring every time go claim especially if you claim for stuff you tot unrelated such as system fault and then when detected OBD installation or fuse-based, means you have mess with the wiring system (fuse also included inside wiring system), in reality, no direct relation but they reserved the right to VOID it.

Again, if SC did not report it, you are safe but how many can be sure the SC won't report it.

You can go ask H & T SC, no need ask what basis. I asked both H & T....got same reply. H & T reserved the right to void. They can or not void it based on case to case basis but will likely void if claiming parts related to electrical (if installation reported). Especially H nowadays QC a bit celup, can fight Proton for the QC crown..they got so many warranty claims (my SA hinted...haha), they will take every opportunity to void (if reported 3rd party related to claimed parts).

Any installation of 3rd party installation on the fuse and obd if reported, H & T got the RIGHT to void the warranty on electrical and anything related to it.
Again if SC no report about it, you escape when claiming warranty for items that somehow related to it (even when you think it is not related).

If SC can fixed, they might just ask to remove the items and not report and fixed them. Many does that. However when there is actual claim of warranty for replacement parts, they have to report directly to HQ to get approval...that is the one that can likely cause void of warranty if 3rd party item are installed and are related to the claim parts in some way (dashcam fuse means you allow 3rd party to touch their fuse, any 3rd party touch original fuse, car manufacturer can void the related warranty). Again ask the SC if no believe. That is car manufacturer SC usual procedure but if you happened on a good SC with nice technician, they just do it and close one eyes...lucky.

Oh..btw if SA offered 3rd party devices, no Honda original, it is still same warranty issues. Some tot SA installed 3rd party is Honda approved, it is not. Honda HQ can still void any claims related to the installation parts.

Again nobody says WILL 100% void. It is case to case, especially when reported. H&T just reserved the right to void and they will likely do just that to save cost unless SC help you by not reporting the 3rd party installation.

Extra Note
Just my 2 cents again....might not be 100% correct but I did ask very clearly about this when I bought my car recently.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 24 2024, 02:34 PM

Haiz...A sceptic and one needs real data and hard proof when it is common knowledge...

Reserved the right to void....that is WITH CERTAINTY. It is written in warranty manual. You know what reserved the right to void, isn't it...it is up to them. You mean to tell me you doubt they reserved their right to void warranty

That is P2. P2 SC even can ask ppl to disconnect the installed OBD dashcam when causing problem under warranty, no report. Very good. That is logical and what should have been but unfortunately many car manufacturer don't think that way.

When you mess with fusebox with 3rd party installation even if no cut wiring, you indirectly mess with wiring system by installing non-approved 3rd party device onto the car. Even if no cut existing wiring, you open their fusebox thru non-approved personnel and devices, you can accidentally shorted them even when you did not. They reserved the right void them since there is a possibility. That is common sense, bro. It is practiced by car manufacturer when there is a claim that require approval, no need prove, it is just how they work, at least for H. Actually most warranty manual got write about 3rd party installation can void related warranty, at least car manufacturer reserved the right to do so.

Have you been to H? SC mentioned encountered cases but did not elaborate the details but mentioned H very cialat strict nowadays, very strict on warranty claims. That is if SC reported the 3rd party installation during the approval process. If your SC did not report the installation, all ok. So it all depends on your SC, really.

Since I have directly consult with both SA and SC of both H & T and yet you say what H & T SC says based on their experiences got claim cases like these are heresay and I did not know directly any of the ppl who encountered them, then heresay it is, You are the boss.

If you join those Civic Facebook group, a lot of them say that their warranty being void after their car wire go haywire and couldn't start after modding. Again they say they kena..I just read. No real solid proven data. Heresay.

The case of 1 person windows motor warranty void because of 3rd party tint is in those FB, either City or Civic. The SC reported the 3rd party tint. I even commented and ask if it is settled, the person at that time even appeal again to honda HQ directly and posted HQ official letter response and got rejected. They don't even need proof if the damage is cause by tint yet Honda still reject, follow policy. He is so pissed but that is how H goes nowadays, unlike a decade ago where the policy is there, but they don't follow that strictly. Again I just read their experience, no hard data. Heresay.

So you think in cases like this tint case also H void warranty, more complex case of fuse and wiring system, they won't void if something goes haywire? Sometimes you no need real data, just some common sense will do. Again....arghhh no real data, just some common sense. Heresay, I understand.

Ps. They generally won't void anything if nothing goes wrong and fixed without needing claim approval from HQ. Only if got direct claim that need HQ approval, then only trigger the response. That is the usual procedures. Many times lots of SC closed one eyes wan, until a claim needs to be registered in system to order parts, that is where the complication comes in, otherwise ok if nothing goes haywire and no system parts claims are made.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 25 2024, 03:44 PM