imagine a simple line drawn circuit (or circle/oval)....

if you snip one one portion out, the circuit is not complete, the electricity cannot flow, hence cannot power whatever stuff you need to power.

what i'm trying to say is that the battery itself is part of the complete circuitry, if you take it out, electricity won't flow.

if you say the car was european marque, i might still be ok with the issue. But now you say that it is an innova, then i'm a little surprised, because japanese cars usually can continue running without a battery....unless this is really the design of the circuitry on innova....

care to experiment on another innova?

It is shorting somewhere, hence constant drain. Could be as simple as a shorted fuse or some broken sensor that causes the car electronics to not fully shut down after engine off, live/grounding reconnected wrongly (i hope not that some idiots managed to connect ground and live together) etc....a pain in the ass for this kind of job...

Need to bring to those workshop expert in car electrical works to diagnose.

great to know that it has been resolved.

What was the particular area that was shorted?

Anyway, loss of 50CCA in 2 days isn't something to be concerned. Temperature changes can have some effect on it. But if constantly dropping over the days, then really the charge is shorting somewhere....

I think more than 1k gone just by changing 3 batteries plus the alternator, and possibly without solving the problem.

Here's a conspiracy theory i came up with, the foreman actually found the issue, but it was so minor and cheap. So decided to be a little deceitful, fix the issue and top up with another alternator, so make it seemed like a more extensive repair.

Both sides happy, owner no need to worry battery die again, and foreman happy because made a quick cut....

That is, if the foreman is smartly deceitful. If not, the battery die again and all is exposed once more

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Mar 4 2020, 10:48 AM

The additional opening has minimal additional cooling benefits, pretty much all of the airflow still come from the front grille opening.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Mar 31 2020, 03:13 PM

from my understanding of seeing the mazda cars in showroom, they provide EFB batteries from GS Yuasa, it is not some unknown brand.

heat is 1 factor, but another factor that can affect battery life is vibration

time for an update....

unfortunately, my din60 agm died on about 20 months usage....and it died quite suddenly....istop error message showed up for about a week, then suddenly died one morning when preparing to go to work. I put my battery to charge every month and was hoping it can reach the 3 years mark, mana tau disappointed....

On my previous experience with the regular efb, when the error message showed up, the battery still can drag itself for almost 2 months. Didn't expect the agm to totally die at such speeds. Strangely, when i tried recharging it, can still charge to good condition, i guess that means no dead cells. However, the amperage doesn't seem to be enough to start the engine.

Thankfully, there is a battery shop just 10 minutes walk away from my home and the price for an amaron q85 was lower than what can be searched online....my only consolation for the ordeal

The strange observation i had was that the previous agm battery seems to be always "on charge", ready for start stop to kick in; the new q85 doesn't seem so. So there is indeed some electrical delivery advantage with agm construction. 2nd observation is that the agm has greater resistance as it aged. After plugging the new battery, my engine ran a little smoother (better sparking/combustion?) and the transmission shifts better. Definitely not due to ecu relearning because i didn't unplug the terminal while changing the battery, did a jump start with the old battery on and engine running before replacement....

same battery terminal post side, din60 agm dimension slightly shorter than q85/d23l. I did that as an experiment to see whether AGM can really last longer....paid 750 for that agm

Technically, using a better construction type battery will be fine, so going agm is ok while going regular non efb battery no.

*actually my previous battery before the agm was an amaron hi life (non efb)...surprise surprise....last slightly longer than the factory unit. While changing to the agm at the workshop, the workshop guy did a battery measurement, can still drag about a month or 2.

**next time i try amaron hi life pro din66

***side note, amaron no longer partnering with johnson control anymore, so future units' quality/longevity might suffer....

if have enough amperage, any 12v battery can start the engine....regardless of construction

i have a battery charger that has agm charging mode...and alternator can supply up to agm level anyway...

but the resistance build up and time to death much more pronounced than my experience with non agm....interesting....

--

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Jan 29 2021, 04:39 PM

All alternators can supply to around 13.5 - 14v right?

12.1 - 12.2v with multimeter but terminals still attached.

disabled most of the time, but definitely activated it more than when the agm was used....

strange right.....

the interesting observation was that the istop was ready faster, earlier and lasted longer when using agm.

this new q85, istop behave back to like initially when using factory fitted battery and the amaron hi life.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Jan 29 2021, 06:40 PM

even for regular lead acid, the voltage level didn't reach the mark....

i do monthly charging to compensate the lack of charging with engine running.....does it mean my battery charger rosak? I'm using a ctek mxs 5.0

all lead acid battery susceptible to heat....actually some newer mercedes have their battery in engine bay now...

i choose agm precisely on their deep cycle capability, can be charged back to life, hence longer battery longevity even after deep discharge. Normal lead acid battery, you deep discharge, just like li-ion battery, will totally kill it...but seems like my experiment failed (or i didn't charge it properly??!!)

marine application due to high cranking ability relative to other construction, lower self discharge to deal with prolonged engine no start and completely sealed to handle to corrosive environment of sea....and of course the ability to revive it if at low charge state.

so fast meh.....put it to charge only about 30+ times throughout my ownership

Should be able to last at least a decade gua.....lead acid chargers can sell in places with winter and those that keep their classic cars.

When i charge, don't show error, and the battery a bit warm...when measured with multimeter, can see the voltage a little higher than before charging. So definitely still working. The error detection also does work, it will show when a battery cannot accept charge as seen on my first battery that died, probably due to 1 cell died.

china brand one, kind of scared la....

rather buy china battery

yes, amaron hi life, 85d23l to be exact. Current q85 is 90d23l.

i think the internal construction similar to efb

next time want to try varta's version of q85, 115d23l, almost 20% more rated capacity compared to amaron's version.

can you give a link to show this, i actually also don't know

i'm curious to know the reasoning for this, would you mind elaborating further on it?

thanks for your insights

if i put it to charge once a month for 2 years, that would only be 24 times, still quite some distance to 250 cycle....

so in your experience, how is it best to prolong the life of lead acid battery if putting it on the charger periodic basis don't seemed like a good idea?

really interested to know that.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Jan 31 2021, 10:37 PM